Christian Frick brought my attention to the fact that Iker Pou has made the 2nd ascent of Demencia senil, Chris Sharma's nightmare of monos and two finger pockets at the Laboratory, Margalef. The 16m all natural route is more or less a hard 8c+ followed by an 8A+ boulder. Iker says it's one of the best routes he's ever done. Being very motivated by the route after working it for a few days in November, he even went and did some proper indoor training to gain the necessary strength, Coming back in the new year, the conditions were poor forcing him to start each session by drying the holds.
Some of you probably remember Iker Pou made the 3rd ascent of Action directe, another semi-famous route with a lot of shallow pockets, back in 2000. That's not all he's good at though, 8B+ bouldering, 8c+/9a MP and now 9a+ sport climbing.
I'll try to find out more as soon as possible.
Photo: Iker Pou on Demencia senil, by Maria Torres
Sources: 9b and Pouanaiak
Here's a video of Iker doing Llamps y trons, 8c+, which shares the first part with Demencia senil
uhh..no. They would need several different cameras and operators, and they would be visible in the background of the different shots, if this were footage of the actual FA. Great footage and editing, but not of the FA.
3 comments:
I've never been to Margelef but according to Victor Fernandez Llamps I Trons 8c+ has a common start with Demencia Senil.
Here is a video of Iker Pou on that route.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1u5zapdq1w4&feature=player_embedded
Enjoy,
Luke
"Here's a video of Chris making the FA."
uhh..no. They would need several different cameras and operators, and they would be visible in the background of the different shots, if this were footage of the actual FA. Great footage and editing, but not of the FA.
Ha, ha, you're right of course, my mistake.
Post a Comment