rec.arts.bodyart: Piercing FAQ 2B--Jewelry Sizes & Designs

From: ardvark@best.com (Anne Greenblatt) Newsgroups: rec.arts.bodyart,news.answers,rec.answers Subject: rec.arts.bodyart: Piercing FAQ 2B--Jewelry Sizes & Designs Followup-To: rec.arts.bodyart Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 20:32:05 -0700 Expires: Mon, 04 August 1997 07:00:00 GMT Message-ID: <ardvark-ya023680000807972032050001@nntp.best.com> X-Newsreader: Yet Another NewsWatcher 2.3.6 Archive-name: bodyart/piercing-faq/jewelry/partB Last-modified: June 09, 1997 Posting-frequency: Monthly Summary: This posting contains information about body piercing. Anyone interested in the subject and/or wishes to read/post to rec.arts.bodyart should read the Piercing FAQ first. The rec.arts.bodyart Piercing FAQ is broken up into 27 parts: 1--Introduction 2A--Jewelry Materials 2B--Jewelry Sizes & Designs 2C--Facial Piercings & Their Suggested Jewelry 2D--Body Piercings & Their Suggested Jewelry 2E--Genital Piercings & Their Suggested Jewelry 3--Getting A New Piercing 4A--Professional Organizations, Instruction, Misc. Suppliers 4B--Professional Piercers - United States - Alabama - Connecticut 4C--Professional Piercers - United States - Delaware - Michigan 4D--Professional Piercers - United States - Minnesota - North Dakota 4E--Professional Piercers - United States - Ohio - Pennsylvania 4F--Professional Piercers - United States - Rhode Island - Wyoming 4G--Professional Piercers - Canada 4H--Professional Piercers - Beyond N. America 4I--Professional Piercers - Beyond N. America Cont'd 5--Care Of New Piercings 6--Problems And Hazards 7--Healed Piercings 8--Misc. Info 9--Resource List 10A--Personal Experiences - Facial & Unisex Piercings 10B--Personal Experiences - Genital Piercings 10C -- Personal Experiences - Genital Piercings Cont'd 10D -- Personal Experiences - Genital Piercings Cont'd 11A -- Jewelry Manufacturers 11B -- Jewelry Manufacturers Cont'd What's in this section: 2B --Jewelry Sizes & Designs 2B.1 Jewelry Sizes 2B.1a Gauges And Equivalents 2B.2 Jewelry Designs 2B.2a Basic Designs 2B.2b Piercing-Specific Designs All texts written and (c) 1997 by Anne Greenblatt unless otherwise noted. Please see Part 1 of the FAQ for information regarding copyright and dissemination of the FAQ. DISCLAIMER! The Piercing FAQ contains material of a sexually explicit nature. The information contained in the Piercing FAQ should not be construed as medical advice. 2B.1 JEWELRY SIZES For most piercings, rings facilitate easier cleaning and allow for swelling. Jewelry is measured by gauge (thickness) and inside diameter in the case of rings or length from ball to ball in the case of barbell studs. The higher the gauge number, the thinner the jewelry. Most jewelry manufactured in the US is gauged according to the Brown & Sharpe system. Note that Silver Anchor used its own gauge system through 1994. Jewelry from the UK and Europe are manufactured by metric gauge. The straighter the section of jewelry that passes through the piercing the less likely the piercing is to be stressed, migrate or "grow out." Thus, the basic guideline for sizing jewelry is to allow the inside diameter of the ring to be at least 1/16" to 1/8" wider than the length of the piercing. For piercings in areas which change shape with body movements, the diameter/length of the initial jewelry should be generous. 2B.1a Gauges and Equivalents Brown and Sharpe(BS) / American Wire Gauge (AWG) (used by most American manufacturers) -------------------------------- gauge inches millimeters -------------------------------- 20 0.032 0.812 18 0.040 1.024 16 0.051 1.291 14 0.064 1.628 12 0.081 2.053 10 0.102 2.588 8 0.128 3.264 6 0.162 4.115 5 0.182 4.622 4 0.204 5.189 3 0.229 5.827 2 0.258 6.544 1 0.289 7.348 0 0.325 8.251 00 0.365 9.266 000 0.410 10.405 0000 0.460 11.684 Silver Anchor (through 1994) --------------------------------- gauge inches millimeters --------------------------------- 20 1/32 = 0.03125 16 3/64 = 0.046875 1.19 14 1/16 = 0.0625 1.59 12 3/32 = 0.09375 2.38 8 1/8 = 0.125 3.18 6 5/32 = 0.15625 3.97 4 3/16 = 0.1875 4.76 2 1/4 = 0.25 6.35 0 5/16 = 0.3125 7.94 2B.2 JEWELRY DESIGNS 2B.2a Basic Designs Captive Bead Ring The basic ring design is the captive bead ring, or ball closure ring. The bead is not attached to the ring--the tension of the ring holds the bead "captive." Factors which affect how tightly the bead is held in place are how annealed (soft) the ring is, how deeply the bead is bored, and the relationshp between the gauge and diamter of the ring. With thinner gauges and larger diameter rings, finger strength may be all that is necessary to remove the bead. Otherwise, ring expanding pliers are used to release the bead. The ends should be well-rounded for easier insertion. Captive Bead Rings (CBR) are referred to as "Bead Closure Rings" in the UK. Variations on the standard captive bead ring include: Flat-Tipped: The ends are flattened horizontally, making the ends tapered and pointed. The ring appears to be able to stand-up when the bead is removed. While this design makes insertion and stretching easier (no taper needed), it is not suitable for most new piercings where the thinner section cannot be prevented from rotating into the piercing. Flat-tipped rings may also be uncomfortable in some areas, depending on the cut and angle of the horizontal edge. Asymmetrical Teardrop / Navel Ring: Designed specifically as a less extrusive piece of jewelry for the navel piercing; a teardrop-shaped ring in which the opening is on one side rather than at the bottom. This design takes some practice to manipulate. Teardrop Ring: A symmetrical upside-down teardrop, where the opening is at the narrowest point. When sizing, the width of the ring is most significant, and standard sizing guidelines should be followed using this measurement. Ball and Socket Ring: The same appearance as a standard CBR, with the convex/concave orientations reversed; the ring ends are concave to hold a solid bead. This design only works with rings of 8ga and larger. Large gauge ring (8ga +) with bevelled ends: ends bevelled vertically to fit perfectly into the bore of the bead (the bore equal to gauge of ring). The ring has the appearance of passing through a hole in the bead; the rings ends are not visible, there is no gap. Bevelling the ends in this way does not prevent smooth insertion - there is a smooth, tapered angle with which to work. Other designs include tapered teardrops (the upper half of the ring is the full gauge), symmetrical oval, and rings in various shapes. Counter-bored and dimpled beads are best suited for most gauges/applications. Stone beads are usually drilled all the way through, but the entrances are drilled a bit wider to accomodate the gauge of the ring, but to prevent the ring from threading through the bead. Steel beads are often ³dimpled² to the appropriate depth for the gauge of the ring, rather than drilled all the way through. Rings can be fitted with a wide assortment of beads. Cubes, skulls, hearts, coils, and tubes in a variety of metals are just a few of the options. Decorative sterling silver beads are usually too heavy to be worn on a new piercing. Silver beads can irritate a piercing if the bead is in contact with the piercing. Silver beads should not be worn with genital piercings; urine will oxidize the metal. In the case of gemstones, malachite and lapis should not be used with fresh or genital piercings, as bodily secretions and urine can break down the stone and release copper. Other soft stones, such as jaspers and tigers eyes, are also subject to erosion. Just as some stones should be avoided, lesser grades of other stones should be avoided, eg. stones which tend to chip easily. ---------------------------------------------------- ball size fits gauges in diameters ---------------------------------------------------- 1/8", 5/32² 18 - 16ga 5/16" - 3/8" 5/32" 18 - 14ga 5/16" - 7/16" 3/16² 16 - 14ga 7/16" - 5/8" 3/16² 12ga 3/8" - 1/2" 7/32" 14 - 12ga 5/8" - 7/8" 1/4" 12 - 10ga 1/2" - 1" 5/16" 8 - 6ga 1/2" - 1" + 3/8" 6 - 4ga 5/8" - 1" + 7/16" 4 - 2ga 5/8" - 1" + Bead Ring or Attached Bead Ring Another basic ring design is the bead ring. The bead is fixed to one end of the ring with a hole drilled into the other side of the bead to receive the other end of the ring. The disadvantage to the bead ring is that it must be torqued / twisted sideways to open and close, which can eventually cause metal fatigue and a warped shape over time, especially if the ring is not annealed. Bead rings are best used for more or less permanent wear. Rings in gold are often made as bead rings rather than captive bead rings, as the gold ball is expensive to replace if lost. Attention should be paid to the method by which the bead is affixed to the ring (also applicable to nostril screw construction). At the present time, there is no guaranteed permanent method of bonding steel to steel for body jewelry applications. Some manufacturers use soldering/brazing compounds of a gold alloy (14k plumb solder) which may not be suitable for use with people sensitive to the high amount of alloys found in the solder, especially if the solder is present along the ring, beyond the joint. A soldered joint is weak, especially when metals are mixed - ie. using karat gold solder to join surgical steel. The acids in bodily secretions will penetrate any gaps in the joint and break down the alloys in the solder, weakening the joint; over time, the joint may come apart. Other manufacturers thread the bead and ring, using a thread- locking compound or epoxy to fix the bead: some of these these compounds are not autoclave-safe (heat resistant) and will, over time and with exposure to bodily fluids and secretions, break down and cease to hold the jewelry together. Seamless Rings Surgical steel "Seamless" rings are rings in which the ends are flat and matched up as closely as possible. Inserting these rings into a new piercing can be very difficult, and closing the rings sometimes next to impossible. Gold ³seamless² rings have convex and concave ends to provide a better fit; the convex end should be inserted into the piercing. A better alternative to the surgical steel Seamless Ring is the Captive Tube / Bar Ring Instead of a bead, a short straight or curved tube or solid bar is held between the ends of the ring. The captive piece is the same gauge as the ring, unless otherwise noted by the manufacturer. Some manufacturers make the captive piece convex and the ring ends concave. The ring has two seams which make it unsuitable for new or unhealed piercings. This style of ring only works well in 16ga and larger. Screw On Ball Ring Alternative to large gauge captive bead ring, no need for ring expanding pliers to remove the ball. However, there is always a gap between the ball ad the opposite end of the ring which may be uncomfortable in some piercings. Straight, Curved and Circular Barbells Straight barbells - (in stainless steel, gold, niobium or titanium) are used for tongue, Ampallang, Apadravya, Frenum, and Dydoe piercings. They are also useful for nipple and ear piercings. The length given is the measurement of the bar, not including the width of the balls. Balls are available in different sizes, although the standard ball size available with each gauge varies between manufacturers. Circular Barbell - can be used when a captive bead ring is suitable; useful for those anticipating changing jewelry often.. Keep in mind that circular barbells are heavier than their captive bead ring equivalent, and thus may not be suitable for all piercings. To prevent losing circular barbell balls, insert a captive bead between the balls. Some companies refer to circular barbells as "Horseshoes." Curved Barbell - roughly one-quarter of a circle. Often used in navel piercings when an unobtrusive piece of jewelry is desired or when the width of the piercing necessitates such a large diameter ring as to be uncomfortable (there are other considerations discussed in Part 2D). The length is measured linearly from ball to ball. Some manufacturers use a strict 1/4 circle. Other companies use a gentler arc. Gauntlet calls their curved bb's "L-Bars." Industrial Strength calls theirs "Half Moon Barbells." "Bent Barbells" are typically bent at an angle. If there is any question as to what you are ordering, ask for clarification. Straight, curved and circular are available with various designs of threading: Internally threaded studs - The bar is threaded internally, and there is no risk of the threads damaging or getting caught on the inside of the piercing. When inserted initially, a guide wire or taper inserted into the needle and the bar will maintain the connection between needle and jewelry for easier insertion. Externally threaded studs - The threads are exposed and can irritate the piercing. With some designs of externally threaded studs, the threaded section can be inserted into the end of the needle, or a needle large enough to fit the threads into is used. However, the threads may irritate or even damage the piercing when the jewelry is changed. The importance of manufacturing the barbell balls, their threads and ring beads of 316L has been questioned by some manufacturers and piercers, but it is of the author¹s oppinion that any part of the jewelry in contact with the openings of the piercing should be of 316L or of one of the other metals suitable for use in piercings. A few manufacturers make genuine stone balls for internally threaded barbells. Several readers and piercers have reported that the threads have a tendency to come ³unglued² during autoclave sterilization, and that when used for tongue piercings, the balls can shatter when accidentally bitten if the stone is brittle or porous. Note that the threading style and dimensions vary between manufacturers; hence you will usually need to buy replacement threaded balls from the manufacturer who made the barbell. 2B.2b Piercing-Specific Designs Jewelry for Enlarged Piercings The following designs are intended to maintain the enlarged size of the piercing without the weight of a ring. These designs are most commonly worn in ear and septum piercings, although they may be suitable for other enlarged piercings such as nipple, labia, and LaBret. Most of the designs are available as small as 10ga and as large as 3", in a variety of lengths to fit different piercings. Earlet / Eyelet / Flesh Tunnel: A short, hollow tube with flared ends, in stainless steel or niobium. The flared ends necessitate that the piercing be stretched a gauge larger than the eyelet gauge for insertion. One variation this design is an eyelet with one flared end, the other straight for easier insertion, held in place by a rubber O-ring. The wearer may consider wearing a ring through the plug so that if the eyelet falls out it won't become lost. Eyelets smaller than 6ga can be difficult to fit with a ring; the ring must have a diameter larger than the length of the eyelet. Plug: A short, solid piece of steel, lucite, acrylic, exotic hardwood, or glass held in place by two rubber O-rings. The plug may or may not be grooved to fit the O-rings. The disadvantage to grooves is that they can get caught on or tear the edge of the piercing when inserted. Sky Renfro of the Los Angeles Gauntlet warns that some exotic hardwood plugs are not prepared properly for wear and may have been treated with substances inappropriate for wear in the body. Acrylic jewelry can also cause problems for some people, regardless of the surface quality, although often irritation can be attributed to a rough surface. If you experience any unusual irritation, redness, or discharge, remove the jewelry immediately. Screw-together Plug: Two-piece design, internally threaded and usually solid with flat ends. Septum Jewelry Septum Retainer: A "U"-shaped piece, in niobium or sss; may be rounded or squared-off. Usually between 5/16" and 3/8" wide and 3/8" long. Commonly available in 18 to 6ga. Septum Spike: A solid length of tapered metal, usually between 1" and 4" long. Styles available include straight, curved, or horse-shoe shaped. Some designs feature a notched center, which rests in the piercing. Septum Tusk: Similar in appearance to the Septum Spike; however, looks can be deceiving! Borrowing from the barbell the tusk comprises two pieces which screw together, the center bar of the determined gauge. Thus someone with a 14ga piercing can appear to have a 4 ga piercing. Prince's Wand The Prince's Wand / Urethral Tube is made in designs to fit either PA, Ampallang or Apadravya. It consists of an 8 or 10mm stainless steel tube, 3" - 4.5" long, bored through from end to end, the inner end tapered and rounded, with the outer end internally threaded to take a short SS ball-ended threaded stud which is used to guide insertion and removed for urination. The tube is worn in the urethra and is kept in place by a ball-ended stud worn through the piercing(s) and screwed into the Wand. For personal experiences and photos, please visit: The Body Modification Ezine, http://www.bme.freeq.com/ http://www.littleblue.demon.co.uk/p_intro.html Padlocks Wildcat International (UK) manufactures several designs of padlocks. These locks use a screw mechanism, not a key. It is not clear if the inner workings of the locks are rustproof. Standard padlocks are not suitable because the metal used is not suitable for wear in piercings and can cause an allergic reaction. Additionally, the inner workings of the locks may not rustproof (especially when exposed to urine). Sterling silver padlock charms are available as hanging charms and captive charms. Technotribe (US) manufactures captive locks which fit 14ga captive rings. -- * Ardvark * Anne Greenblatt Piercing FAQ Manager for rec.arts.bodyart Piercing Exquisite http://www2.ba.best.com/~ardvark

PartA - PartB - PartC - PartD - PartE

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Last Update August 03 1997 @ 02:21 AM

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