PAINTING A HIGH ELF ARCHER
The techniques used for this metal archer apply equally well to all High Elves.
What you will need:
Before you start, you will need to undercoat your model.
Painting the High Elf Archer
After I'd cleaned the model up I undercoated it. It's quicker to spray the model with a black undercoat spray but a layer of Chaos Black painted on with a brush will do just as well. Although white is the norm for undercoats, black can be used depending on the model. It can speed up the painting as you get instant shading. In this case the model is covered in plenty of armour which suits black undercoating.
Next I painted the armour with Mithril Silver. Normally when painting, it's best to thin the paint down a little with some water, so that the paint flows easily into all the detail. When I'm painting armour scales I don't do this, as I want to show off the detail. Don't put too much paint on the brush, and don't try and force it into the detail. The example shows the effect this achieves.
I mixed up a little Black and Blue ink along with about the same amount of water to thin the mixture down. I painted this over the areas I'd already painted silver. This brings out the detail and gives the armour a bluish tint. Next, the skin and the bow were painted with Snakebite Leather, keeping my paint slightly thinned so that it got into all the detail. I painted the decoration on the armour and bow with Burnished Gold. Finally, I gave the robes a coat of Space Wolves Grey.
Next came the areas of skin. I painted the raised areas of the skin with Elf Flesh. Rather than painting all of the fingers individually, I just drew the brush across the detail, making sure I didn't have too much paint on the brush. That way, only the raised detail catches the paint. I wasn't worried about putting too much paint on and it dropping into the gaps between the fingers as I could just go back and paint in a little thinned down Snakebite Leather. On the face, I picked out the chin, nose and cheeks.
Similarly, I painted the raised areas of the cloak with Skull White. I kept the paint quite thin, so that it blended in nicely with the Space Wolves Grey basecoat.
To give the base more texture I painted the top with thinned down PVA glue (use an old brush if possible!) and dipped the base into the sand. This only took around 20 minutes to dry and then I painted the whole base Goblin Green.
Once you have reached this stage, the model is almost ready for battle. In fact, you could quite happily play a few games with a unit painted to this standard.
I wanted the gemstones to be Blood Red, and to make them brighter I painted Skull White onto the gems first, as an undercoat. The hair I painted with Space Wolf Grey. I drew the brush across the hair (being careful not to have too much paint on the brush) to bring out the detail in a similar way to the fingers earlier.
If you're feeling adventurous, try painting a little thinned down black paint into the eyesocket. Then paint a small line of white across the middle of the eye, and finish with a tiny spot of black in the centre. Many gamers only paint eyes on character models, and others don't bother at all, but I think the effort is worthwhile.
Finally, you can mix white into Goblin Green, and draw it over the sanded top of the base to give it more depth.