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Its tough to build a reliable canister filter. The larger the unit,the more force required to seal the O-ringed cap. Stress points occur at the clip holders, jar rim and the cap, making these parts especially vulnerable to breakage, and alone justifying the cost of highest quality materials and workmanship. Canisters can also leak air into, or water out of, the cap, and water can squeeze out where cutoff valves or nozzles connect to tubing. The tubing must be tough, but flexible able to bend without collapsing. In summary, canisters are difficult to design and build well.
Some companies have put their efforts into engineering, others have dwelled on advertising, and some have struck a balance. Sometimes, the engineering design is fine, but the manufacturer was the low bidder and used inferior materials or poor quality control. And sometimes, the unit seems great in the lab, but does not work off the production line to the embarrassment of the company. Then again, there are some companies that dont give a rats behind about quality, figuring they can drive sales by advertising.
So its refreshing to get a product for testing that is well-designed, solidly built of good materials and works as advertised. Frankly, I dont get that many winners, but heres one I really liked. Renaissance is the United States distributor of Hydor, an Italian manufacturer of canister filters, filter media, water pumps, submersible heaters and internal impeller-driven (as opposed to air-driven) filters. A new kid on the block, Renaissance has a great looking line of well-built canisters with novel attributes.
The Renaissance Prime canister filters are made in three sizes, with flow rates of 100 gallons per hour (gph) (model 10), 200 gph (model 20) and 300 gph (model 30). Ed Gaffney sent me the Prime 20 and the smaller Prime 10 for testing and examination. The units are the same except for size and flow rate.
Self-priming is their major feature, but thats not the half of it. This sturdy filter is sleek, and its space-age lines are complemented by heavy locking clips set into recesses, finger-adjustable hose nozzles and easy top access to the impeller chamber to facilitate cleaning. Marks and tabs on the canister and lid simplify line-up and assure tight connections with virtually no forcing. O-rings throughout assure tightness, eliminating leakage of air into, or water out of, the unit at all the usual problem points. The lid has valve taps with directional levers (in-line for on and right-angle for off).These taps screw directly into nozzles on the lid, eliminating leaky flexible tubing connections at this stress point. For cleaning, the valve taps are turned off (right angle) and the nozzles unscrewed. Nothing could be neater, simpler or faster.
Rubberized rings around the base provide friction. There are no fragile plastic parts to lose or become brittle with age and snap. A single media basket fits snugly inside the canister container, eliminating stacking. Media are not included in the box, but Gaffney sent me samples the company sells separately. The full-line of media (which can also be used in canisters made by other companies) includes both fine and coarse filter floss, zeolite, ceramics, granular activated carbon and lava rock. Nylon mesh bags are included where needed, and the floss I was sent was already cut to shape for the particular unit, but is available in generic packages as well.
The tank rim intake and discharge U-tubes are substantial. The discharge comes with a directional diffuser and can be replaced with an optional spray bar that can be placed below water to provide only diffusion, or above water to provide both diffusion and aeration. The intake tube has a neat gimmick to measure back pressure. You first run the unit on and mark the water level, then turn the unit off and mark the water level again. Then you move a sliding ring to the midpoint of these levels. After some time, when the water level in the intake tube reaches or passes this midpoint (indicating building back pressure), the canister needs to be cleaned to protect the motor and maintain efficiency.
The major feature is the self-priming, so you dont need the sucking-aquarium-water ordeal with accompanying splashing. The priming chamber is opened by pressing a red tab so you can rotate the black cap in the lid. Simply pour water into the chamber and replace the cap on the lid. Within a minute of turning the unit on, the impeller purges trapped air. You may have to open the cap periodically to allow other air to purge out of the unit, but you dont need to shut off the unit or disconnect anything. Open the cap, let the air and some following water out and put the cap back on. Presto, the canister is completely filled with water once more.
Directions are clearly described and illustrated. Every part is identified by a code and location, and every turning direction is illustrated. Maintenance, too, is clearly described. These are among the best instructions Ive seen for any product.
I set up the Prime 20 using all the hoses provided to reach the top tank on a three-tier system way over my head (no jokes, please). The pump started slowly while purging air, but when the air was all gone it was shooting out an impressive stream at a height unlikely to be exceeded in anyones home. Months later, long after the test, the unit was sitting on a shelf, having never been cleaned. I took it apart for cleaning and set up a new one on another tank that badly needed treatment with granular activated carbon. The lid stuck at first, but came apart with some forcing. The substantial construction was easily able to handle the stresses of doing this.
The Prime canisters combine important features, sleek design and substantial construction with great instructions and graphics. I predict they will be a real hit. There are lots of canisters on the market, but this one will have little competition. For more information, contact Renaissance International, Inc., 231 West Parkway, Pompton Plains, NJ 07444; (201) 616-8200, fax (201) 616-2679.
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