* * * Posted by: Joe Martinez <joe@jmmsoftware.com> * * *
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Well, I decided to bite the bullet and get a float switch to protect me from an
overflowing tank. It was a LOT easier that I thought it would be. See the post
below to see which float switch I got. The whole setup only cost me about $15
($10.50 float switch, and a $5 extension cord).
The switch is rated at 30 watts. My sump pump (Rio 2100) is 25 watts, so I didn't
have to bother with relays. Basically, I mounted the float switch just inside the
top edge of the tank. I severed one of the leads of an extension cord, and
connected the 2 leads of the float switch where the break is. I then plug the
extension cord in to the wall and plug the pump into the extension cord.
If my overflows ever get blocked, the water level rises, and activates the float
switch, which shuts off the sump pump! I tested it and it works beautifully!
This switch is absolutely PERFECT for this application!
You may have to be a little creative with how you mount it, since there's no
mounting hardware. It's basically just a cylinder, but I found it not hard at
all.
-Joe
Chris Fanning wrote:
> * * * Posted by: Chris Fanning <cfanning@jingoro.prevmed.sunysb.edu> * * *
> *** Unsubscribe @ www.reefkeepers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo.pl ***
> > * * * Posted by: Joseph Martinez <joe@jmmsoftware.com> * * *
> > > 1 reed style float switch $15 (from Graingers)
> >
> > I looked on their web site. They have a LOT of float switches. Do you have
> > the part number of the correct one?
>
> Whoops. Got my suppliers mixed up. I never looked for float switches
> at Grainger. It looks like they have a nice one for $10.50 by Madison.
> Even cheaper than the one I found at McMaster Carr. My mistake just
> saved me $20!
>
> # 2A554 on page 3233.
>
> You absolutely must put this on the end of a tube to protect the connections
> from saltwater. (Or seal the top *real* well.) You know, the whole GFCI
> thing again...
>
> Chris
