This compilation is presented as an educational resource. Every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information presented. The author is not liable for any accident, injury, or loss due to the use or misuse of the information presented.  Replication, republication or redistribution of content, including by framing or similar means, seriously depresses the author.

~Paint and Plating~

When trying to determine the original colors of the various components on the vintage Ford tractor, it is important to think in terms of assemblies, sub-assemblies, and when during production the assemblies were mated.  The following examples illustrate this: 

• The center housing, axle housings, transmission housing, steering gear housing, engine long block and various front axle components are assembled.  The main assembly is then painted as one unit.

• The radiator and seat assemblies (black), are attached to the main assembly (red), thus the radiator and seat assembly mounting hardware is unpainted or cadmium plated.  

• The rear wheel centers, fenders, hood, grill, and other sheet metal components (gray), are attached to the main assembly (red), thus the rear wheel lug nuts and sheet metal mounting hardware is unpainted or cadmium plated.  

• The steering wheel is attached to the main assembly after the application of the color coats, thus the steering wheel "acorn" nut is unpainted or cadmium plated.  

The best possible resource to use in determining the original colors of the various components may be your local library.  Vintage photographs found in Ford tractor literature provide valuable information to the collector and restorer.

The table below contains basic information on the color scheme of Ford tractors produced from 1948 to 1957.  Although the color scheme on the 8N Ford tractor is similar to the color scheme of the Golden Jubilee/NAA and Hundred series, there are minor differences, i.e. the dash on the 8N is red, not gray.  Ford tractors produced from 1958 to 1962 feature series-specific color combinations.  A general overview of the different paint schemes found on Ford tractors produced  from 1953-1962 may be found on the fourth page of the History section and on the Quick Identification Page.

1) The "dashboard" on the 8N Ford is red.

2) The rear rims were originally zinc plated during manufacture.  Archival assembly-line photographs usually show the rear rims painted gray.  Whether to paint the rims gray or silver (to simulate the zinc) is completely up to the restorer.  As a general rule, tractors restored for utility purposes (work) feature gray-painted rear rims and tractors restored for show feature silver-painted rear rims. 

~Surface Preparation~

Cast-iron and steel surfaces are susceptible to corrosion in the form of rust.  Rust must be completely removed prior to priming and painting the part.  If you are going to paint over an existing topcoat you must still deal with any rust that might be present.  Once the structure has been stripped and the rust eliminated, the metal must be protected within 1-2 hours.  Be sure to have the primer and spray equipment ready before you begin blasting or cleaning.  Rust will begin to form on a bare metal surfaces within a very short period of time.  Clean the surface with a surface cleaner just prior to priming.

All surfaces must be cleaned and primed prior to painting.  Epoxy primers come in a variety of colors.  Lighter colors are easier to cover with final topcoats, and produce brighter topcoats.  

A word about zinc chromate primers- zinc chromate has been used for years as a primer.  The use of zinc chromate has declined because of the word "chromate."  Hexavalent chromium compounds are toxic, EPA regulated, and carcinogenic to humans.  Zinc chromate is still available to commercial users but it is not available to the general public.  Zinc chromate should not be used if you plan to apply polyurethane paint.

The elapsed time between priming and applying the topcoat will vary depending upon the brand of paint used.   Different manufacturers recommend varying times.  As a general rule, an epoxy primer should completely cure and harden prior to applying the top coat.  The curing process may take several days, depending upon the temperature and humidity.  The primer should then be scuff sanded to obtain the needed adhesion for the topcoat.

~Sanding~

Proper sanding is a very important step in producing a high quality finish.  If you want a smooth, high gloss finish you will spend time sanding.  Sanding actually flattens the surface of the object you are painting, and removes any imperfections that may be present.  Use a sanding block when possible.  The grit of sandpaper used, 180 grit to 600 grit or higher, depends upon the surface and its roughness.  Pneumatic or electric orbital sanders can be used on larger areas, although a straight back and forth movement is preferred over a circular movement.

~Types of Paints~

Acrylic enamels produce a highly durable and weather resistant finish.  Acrylic enamels dry more quickly than straight enamels, resist scratches, and have a high gloss finish.  Acrylic enamels are generally sprayed over an epoxy primer after being thinned to proper consistency using enamel thinner.  A light, mist coat is first sprayed on and allowed to dry for a few minutes until it is tacky to the touch.  The mist coat is then followed by a full coat of enamel.  One full coat may be sufficient or another may be sprayed if desired.  Acrylic enamels dry more slowly than lacquers, and often require color sanding and buffing to bring out luster.

Acrylic lacquers produce a hard, quick drying, durable finish, although acrylic lacquers have a low solid content that makes it more difficult to apply.  Acrylic lacquers should be thinned using the proper thinner and then a very light tack coat applied.  An additional 4-5 cross coats of paint will then have to be applied allowing about 30 minutes drying time between coats.  The disadvantage in this is that too many coats without proper drying time produces cracking in the finish.  Lacquers must be buffed to bring out luster, and do not hold up well to chemical and fuel spills.

Polyurethane paints are probably the most popular choice for show-quality topcoating.  Polyurethane paints are very durable and provide a high gloss finish.  Polyurethane paints are also chemically and photochemically resistant.  These paints have a high solid content and cure very slowly, which means they continue to flow out for a long period of time.  This flowing out process forms a very flat surface that gives the surface a high gloss look. Polyurethane enamels are mixed with a catalyst prior to use, then reduced to proper viscosity for spraying.  A very light tack coat is first applied followed by one or two full coats.  One problem inherent in polyurethanes is in maintaining the proper thickness of the film applied.  If the paint is applied too thick it may tend to crack over a period of time.

The one major problem encountered when using polyurethane paints is its toxicity.  Breathing the spray mist from polyurethanes may cause severe sickness or even death.  With this in mind, you must use a  mask with the appropriate filters or a forced air breathing system.  Wear protective clothing.  Protect your skin and your eyes.

No matter which paint you choose, certain fundamentals apply:

1. The paint needs to be properly mixed.  This means shaking the paint on a paint shaker within one week of application.  After shaking the paint it should then be thoroughly stirred just prior  to use.  
2. The surfaces should be wiped down with a paint cleaning solvent using a clean rag.  A tack rag should then be used to remove any dust.  
3. The paint should be properly thinned by following the manufacturers directions.  A viscosity cup can be used for the thinning procedure.  A viscosity cup is a small cup with a hole in the bottom.  The cup is filled with paint and the viscosity is determined by the amount of time, in seconds, required for the paint to flow through the hole until it begins to drip.  
4. The paint should be strained through a mesh paint strainer prior to placing the paint into the spray cup.  When using a polyurethane paint, strain the paint prior to mixing the catalyst.

Mixing the catalyst in polyurethane paints should be done in accordance with the directions from the manufacturer.  Generally, the catalyst should react with the base paint for at least 20 minutes prior to spraying.  Once the paint has been mixed you will have approximately 5 hours before chemical crosslinking begins and the mixture begins to thicken.  With this in mind, only mix the amount of paint you will need for the job.  If too much paint is mixed, you can place it in a freezer (not with food) over night, remove it and allow it to reach room temperature before spraying.  The cold temperature will delay the crosslinking process.

When applying the final color coats, always be sure the paint you are using has the same batch number.  Slight differences in color can often be found in different batches of paint.  One solution is to open all of the cans of paint you will be using and mix them together in a large container.  The paint can then be poured back into the original containers.

~Other Chemicals, Lighting, etc.~

In addition to reducers, other chemicals you may encounter are retarders and accelerators.  A paint retarder, very simply, is a solvent that slows the drying time of the paint.  Retarders are added in proportion to the directions on the paint can.  Retarders are generally used in high temperature or high humidity conditions.  Accelerators have the opposite affect.  Accelerators speed up the drying time.  Accelerators may be required to help the drying process in cool temperatures.

Proper lighting is absolutely essential when painting.  For the best results, try to position your lights 45 degrees to the surface being painted.  By looking into the glare of a light you will detect heavy and light areas of material.  Heavy areas will often result in sags or runs.  Paint the edges of the structure first.  Edges often do not receive an adequate amount of paint.  Painting the edges first will solve this problem.  If at all possible, paint on a flat surface.  Paint will sag or run much more easily on a vertical surface.  Spraying in corners and around corners may present a problem.  Practice in areas such as this to establish the proper technique.  As a general rule, spray the corner first, whether it is inside or outside, then you can blend the paint in with subsequent strokes.

Runs and sags are the most common defect in a new paint job.  Runs and sags usually form as the result of improper spraying techniques; the gun may be held too close to the surface, the material may be mixed too thin.  The only thing to do with a run or sag is simply stop and let the paint dry then re-sand and repaint the area.  "Orange peel" or "gatoring" in the paint is also a common problem.  This imperfection is usually caused by oil or grease on the surface being painted, but may also be caused by the air pressure being too high in a pressure gun, the paint being too viscous, or using the improper solvent.  "Blistering" of the paint is a result of the surface not being properly primed or moisture being present on the surface.  A coarse finish occurs when the surface was not thoroughly cleaned or the paint is applied too "dry.".

If you are going to preserve your spray gun you must clean it thoroughly.  This means taking the gun apart and cleaning it with a solvent, either reducer or MEK.  Remember, protect your hands from any solvent, and take care not to inhale the fumes.  Always read and follow the manufactures specifications for the proper use and disposal of solvents!

~Finally, the Paint!~

At this time there are no set paint or color standards for the tractor collector/restorer to follow.  Ask a group of Ford tractor enthusiasts about paint colors and the number of different responses will be in direct proportion to the number of men and women in the group.  Unfortunately, the "factory" paints are no longer produced, so the collector/restorer must decide for his or herself what is the "right" color.   

The following table, containing information from Peterson & Beemer's Ford N Series Tractors  (Motorbooks International Publishers & Wholesalers, 1997), is a partial list of several brands and colors that have been used in the restoration of Ford tractors, 1939 through 1964.  The following table is by no means all-inclusive.  Inclusion in the following table does not signify the author's endorsement of one paint color over another.  As previously stated, at this time there are no set paint or color standards for the tractor collector/restorer to follow.  The individual collector/restorer must decide for his or herself what is the "right" color.

Always check the color on a small area before you repaint the entire tractor!

I have an unopened quart can of Ford Tractor And Implement Gray Enamel, MIL-957-SE-2, circa 1959.  The paint analysis, found on the back of the can, is as follows (note: the paint can label has sustained some minor damage, thus complete information on "vehicle" percentages is unavailable):