Preston Reuther's
"GOLD WIRE
SCULPTING SYSTEM"

WIRE JEWELRY MAKING
COURSE #105

On-Line Instructional Course

Adjustable Filigree Gold Ring

Copyright by Preston and Mary Reuther

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Project 105 is an adjustable gold ring-----wear it on any finger or on a toe.   These rings can be made in just a few minutes and because they are adjustable, they can be sold on the spot.  It is best made with gold filled 21 gauge square half hard wire.  

SUPPLIES NEEDED

  • 18 inches of 14kt. gold filled 21 gauge square half hard wire or brass practice wire

TOOLS NEEDED

  • flat nose pliers

  • chain nose pliers

  • wire cutter or flush cutter

  • Sharpie marking pen

  • steel ruler

  • steel ring mandrel

  • rawhide hammer

PRICING YOUR FINISHED PROJECT

Cost of material-----(prices are approximate)

  • 18 in. 14kt. gold filled 21 gauge square half hard wire $1.50

Suggested retail price                                               $10.00-15.00

  • Cut four pieces of 21 gauge gold filled square half hard wire--each 3-1/2 inches long. These will be the wires of your ring.
  • Cut two pieces of 21 gauge gold filled square half hard wire --- each 2 inches long.  These will be your wrap wires.
  • Lay the four 3-1/2 inch long shank wires together.
  • TIP:  Wrap the center of the bundle with masking tape to help hold your wires together.
  • Using your flat nose pliers, make a small hook about 3/4 inch long on the end of one wrap wire. 
  • Measure 3/4 of an inch from one end of the bundle, place the hook around the bundle, and start making two complete wraps around the bundle.  Cut the excess wires off on the backside of the ring shank.  See DIAGRAM #1.
  • Next measure 3/4 of an inch from the other end of the bundle and make two complete wraps using the second wrap wire.  Cut off the excess wires on the backside of the ring shank.
  • This is what your bundle should look like.  See DIAGRAM #2.

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DIAGRAM #1

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DIAGRAM #2

  • Using a smooth kitchen knife, start on one end of the bundle and bend the end wires one by one in an outward direction.  See DIAGRAM #3.
  • Using your knife, bend the wires one by one outward in the opposite direction on the other end of the bundle.
  • The bundle with bent wires should look like this. See DIAGRAM #4.

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DIAGRAM #3

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DIAGRAM #4

  • Start with one end of the bundle and work from the left to the right.  Do not cut the wire on the far left at all.  Cut off 1/8 inch from the wire next to the far left wire.  Then cut 1/4 inch off of the next wire and cut 3/8 inch off of the last wire. 
  • With your chain nose pliers, catch the tip of the shortest wire and start to curl the wire outwards around itself.  This is the beginning of a rosette.   Always start with the shortest wire.  See DIAGRAM #5  
  • Press the curl flat with your flat nose pliers and start to turn the wire into a coil.  See DIAGRAM #6.

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DIAGRAM #5

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DIAGRAM #6

  • Continue to roll the wire into a complete coil--a small rosette and flatten the rosette with your flat nose pliers. 
  • Working from the shortest to the longest wire, begin a small curl with the next wire, flatten the curl and continue to make a rosette in the next wire.   Bring the rosette right up to the first rosette and flatten it.
  • Make a rosette on the next wire bringing the rosette right up to the last rosette.  And make a rosette on the last wire. 
  • This is what the rosettes should look like.  See DIAGRAM #7.

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DIAGRAM #7

  • Using your pin vise, twist each of the wires at the opposite end of the bundle.  See DIAGRAM #8.
  • Now clip the wires on the other end of the bundle, cutting them opposite of the other end----the shortest wire on other end will be the longest wire on this end.  Do NOT cut the long wire.  Cut 1/8 inch off the next wire.   Cut 1/4 inch off the next wire and cut 3/8 inch off the last wire.
  • This is what your bundle should look like. See DIAGRAM 9.
  • With your flat nose pliers, make a rosette facing outwards on the shortest wire.  Flatten the rosette and continue to make a rosette on each wire working from the shortest wire to the longest wire.  Your finished rosettes should look like this.   See DIAGRAM 10.

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DIAGRAM #8

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DIAGRAM 9

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DIAGRAM 10

  • Put your bundle on the ring mandrel at about 5-1/2 and bend it completely around your ring mandrel.  See DIAGRAM 11.
  • Flatten and gently shape your ring by putting it on the ring mandrel and tapping it with a rawhide hammer.
  • TIP:  By starting with a smaller size, you will be able to easily open the ring up to a larger size ring by pushing the ring to a larger size on the mandrel.  If you start with a larger size ring, you will not be able to make the ring smaller.   

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DIAGRAM #11

  • The finished adjustable filigree gold ring.  
  • NOTE:  This project produces a ring that will fit sizes 6-1/2 to 11-1/2.  To make a smaller ring, use 3 inch long wires for the bundle.
  • NOTE:  To make a toe ring, use only 3 wires instead of 4 wires.

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DIAGRAM #12