"Where's Waldo" Hat - A Tribute to fit Teens and Adults
This original pattern is ©1997 and 2000 by Kim Salazar. Please see the copyright note
at the end of the pattern. It was originally shared with the
KnitList - (a knitting-oriented mailing list).
|One of the guys who works with me is a tall, thin, angular glasses-wearer.
He is also blessed with a great sense of humor, and has referred to himself in
third person as "Waldo" when faced with confusing or absurd circumstances.
Since he is obviously a fan (and look-alike) of the syndicated comic strip character,
this holiday/birthday present was designed for him.
"Where's Waldo" is a cartoon character appearing in books and syndicated comic strips. This hat is presented as a tribute to the character and his creator, Martin Hanaford. It is not licensed or acknowledged by the creators of "Where's Waldo," nor do I have any connection with them.
|Stitch gauge: 10 stitches = 2 inches (5 cm)|
Row gauge: 14 rows = 2 inches
|I started the hat on five regular 6-inch long dpns, then added a second set
of the same size and length. I don't mind working with a rat's nest of needles
and I find using shorter circulars uncomfortable. If I had some long length
#6 dpns, I would have used them. Others would probably prefer a 16-inch circular. |
I apologize to circular needle fans everywhere. This pattern is written for dpns. Users of circular needles may wish to introduce markers at "needle end" points to make following this notation easier.
M1 - increase by a non-eyelet producing method. I picked up the "bridge" between the last stitch and the next stitch, and knit into the back of the resulting loop.
|Hat body: |
Row 1: Using white, cast four stitches onto one needle, and knit them I-Cord style.
Row 2: *K1, m1 on new dpn.* Repeat * three times - so you have two stitches on each of your four needles (8 stitches total)
Row 3: *K2*. Repeat * on each needle.
Row 4: *K1, m1, k1, m1*. Repeat * on each needle (12 stitches).
Row 5: *K4*. Repeat * on each needle.
Row 6: *K1, m1, k2, m1, k1*. Repeat * on each needle (24 stitches)
Row 7: *K6*. Repeat * on each needle
Row 8: *K1, m1, k3, m1, k2*. Repeat * on each needle (36 stitches)
Row 9: *K8*. Repeat * on each needle
Row 10: *K1, m1, k4, m1, k3*. Repeat * on each needle (40 stitches)
Row 11: *K10*. Repeat * on each needle
Row 12: *K1, m1, k5, m1, k4*. Repeat * on each needle (48 stitches)
Row 13: *K12*. Repeat * on each needle
Row 14: *K1, m1, k6, m1, k5*. Repeat * on each needle (56 stitches)
Row 15: *K14*. Repeat * on each needle
Around this point I introduced the second set of short dpns - splitting in half the stitches carried by each needle. I made sure each of the new needles began with the K1, m1 unit.
Continue in this manner until you have 104 stitches, ending with a knit row. If you are using two sets of short dpns you will have 13 stitches on each needle. If you are using one set of long dpns you will have 26 stitches on each needle. If you are using circulars you will have 26 stitches between markers.
From this point on, continue to knit plain with no increases until your piece measures approximately 8.5 inches from the beginning. Exact length isn't important - I just kept knitting until I completely used up the skein of white yarn.
Introduce the red yarn. *K2, p2* rib until you've knit approximately 3.75 inches in red. Bind off loosely in rib.
Reserving about a foot for sewing the pompon on, wind the rest of the skein of red yarn around something of convenient size. I used a the long dimension of case from a cassette audio tape. Slip the loop of yarn off whatever it is you wound it around and firmly tie it in the center with the reserved sewing length to make a butterfly or figure-8. Make sure the center is tied REALLY tightly. A couple of extra wraps won't hurt. Clip the loopy ends and puff up your pompom. Sew it on to the top center of your finished hat.
Rejoice in the completion of a project that produces exactly zero leftovers. Finding a crowd to hide in is optional.