Tools needed: |
Time (and
lots of it) |
Sockets,
ratchet & breaker bar (have 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 18mm,
5/8" shallow
and deep sockets available) |
A really good
friend with a garage you can leave your truck in |
Bottle jacks,
scissor jacks, and/or floor jacks |
4x4's and
2x4's (and other things to stack the jacks on.) |
Directions |
The
first thing you need to do is break loose all the body mount
bolts. There are 5 on each side, and for two of them you will need
to pull up the carpet in the interior in order to pull the bolt
out. You also need to remove the two front seats (to be able to
pull up the carpet.)
These are the radiator drop brackets SLR sent, along with a bottom tray
to support the radiator. It turns out these are useless and not
needed, as you simply remove a 1" lip from the bottom of the fan
shroud, and this provides enough clearance for the fan you don't need to
shim the whole arrangement up. So far no overheating
problems...after I asked SLR about the brackets they admitted they
didn't use them either, and did the same thing I did. If they
aren't overheating (being in Arizona), I doubt I will...so far no
problems, with many dreadful, sultry, stop-n-go 495 commutes under my
belt. After
dislodging the radiator from its mounts and removing the driveshaft
safety loop, you need to jack the body up off of its mounts. After
experimenting with a few different ways, Mark and I came up with this
(well, really, he did...said "hold on a minute," ran inside,
and came back out with a 2x4 that had a run in with the table saw.)
If you're wondering, my rocker panels are Herculined to hide all the
scratches/dents that bear witness to me wheeling the truck a little too
hard before I had my EOE sliders.
Saturday was a gorgeous day to be working on the truck.
Mark under the truck after fighting to get the fourth body mount in
(they were a ROYAL pain in the ass to get in.) SLR forgot to ship
me the rear bumper lift brackets, so rather than put my stock rear
bumper back in, I ran around like a
freakish redneck for about a week...of course, once they shipped me the
bumper brackets I realized all I had to do was redrill two holes and the
stock bumper would have fit back on...go me. :-(
(BTW, for any who do a < 2" body lift in the future--you will
NOT need to notch your frame to fit the rear bumper back on, nor will
you need bracketry...just some good sharp drill bits and a stencil
pattern.)
The front body mount, resting on the aluminum puck. SLR sent me
7/16" standard bolts, Grade 8. One of these days I plan to
replace them with metric bolts. I wish they had sent metric bolts
to begin with, but oh well.
Obviously
enough the ARB bullbar was no longer aligned with the body, since it,
the KMA rear bumper, and the rock sliders bolt straight to the
frame. I took a roadtrip to EOE's new NJ shop, and Todd was nice
enough to do the work of bracketing the ARB up for me at a killer price
(I think I probably will end up paying him less than he spent on welding
supplies...!!!)
This is a picture of the partially completed bracket system we came up
with (mounted on the truck.)
There is a 1x3 piece of 3/16" wall box steel spanning the front of
the frame rails, with a 1/4" sheet welded on top of it that sits
atop the frame rails, preventing the bullbar from pivoting around its
mounting points (a problem many of us have had with the stock mounting
system.)
Todd at work on the bracketry. I think we literally ended up
adding another 30 pounds of steel to the front of my truck. :-)
Unfortunately we had some welder problems, so the work took a little
longer than we planned for. The clock in the back is reading AM,
we had started at 9AM the day before, and we weren't done. :-(
The end result. Eventually the sliders will also come up to match
the bottom of the rockers again, but it looks fine the way it is now so
it's not a priority...they're still protecting me from body damage just
fine.
Any
questions, just ask me. And
if you're wondering...my tires STILL rub. Damn these Swampers run
big. Here is a pic I got after getting seriously crossed up on the
trail, as you can see the tires do still rub in the rear a bit, but not
badly...probably about as badly as stock tires do w/ the swaybar
disconnected (i.e. they only rub in very extreme circumstances, and even
with the Swampers it's not noticeable...the lugs really just brush
past.)
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