23cm (9) of 1cm (3/8)
long pile mohair
A small amount of wool felt for the
Six 3.5cm (1 1/2) and four 4.5cm
(1 7/8) hardboard discs
Four 2cm (7/8) and one 4cm (1
5/8) bolts with Nyloc locking nuts
Ten metal washers
A pair of 9mm glass eyes (black)
A good quality machine thread to match
Strong thread for closing the seams
Polyester bear filler
all pattern pieces to medium weight art board with their relevant
markings. All seam allowances are 6mm (1/4). Once you have established
the direction of the pile, lay out the pattern pieces on the back
of the fabric. Cut the paw pads and footpads from felt. Draw around
the pattern pieces using a ballpoint pen. Indicate all placement marks,
jointing holes and openings. Cut out the pieces using small, snipping
movements under the backing of the mohair to avoid catching the pile.
Trim around all the pieces of mohair
about 3mm (1/8) in from the edge and smooth the fur to the inside
as you pin the pieces together, this will ensure a good tight seam
and prevent any trapped fur. Reinforce the turn at the ankle, the
paw pads and the head by double stitching. Always hand stitch with
heavy doubled thread using a small even ladder stitch when closing
seams after stuffing. Use glass headed pins and place them at right
angles to the fabric to prevent losing them inside the bear.
Stitch the darts in the head. Join
the two head pieces right sides together and stitch from the tip of
the nose to the neck. Snip almost to the point where indicated, and
lay the sides open. Stitch the ears together along the curve. Stitch
the body fronts to the body backs at the sides. With those pieces
together, stitch all around leaving the back open for stuffing and
a small 6mm (1/4) gap at the neck seams for jointing the head
at a later stage. Stitch the paw pads to the arms matching the notches.
Make a small snip where indicated, to the end of the stitch line.
Fold the arms over and stitch around leaving the opening. Stitch around
the legs leaving openings at the front and the sole for the footpad.
Match the pin the marks on the footpad
to the toe seam and heel mark on the leg. Ease and pin around the
rest of the pad. With pad on machine plate, start at toe and with
seam open, stitch carefully around the foot. Now turn the foot up
so that the pad is facing you and stitch around a second time making
sure you have a nice symmetrical oval.
Pin the centre of the head gusset
to the head centre seam, then part way up each side of the head. Hand
stitch this section of the head, turn it right side out to ensure
the nose is perfectly centred. Turn back to the inside and pin the
rest of the head together. Now machine stitch around the head with
the gusset facing you. When you get to the nose, keep checking that
the underside of the fabric is smooth and that the seam is opened
out when you stitch over the end of the nose. You can do this by keeping
the needle in the fabric while lifting the presser foot and pivoting
- When all your pieces have been stitched, turn them
right side out and gently brush the seams with a cat comb to tease out
any trapped pile. If you use a teasel brush be careful not to hit the
felt around the paw and foot pads.
- Next attach the arms and legs. Using an awl, push
holes through the jointing hole marks on the arms, legs and the body.
Slip a washer and then a disc onto a short bolt, push the bolt through
one of the limbs and through the body. Add another disc and washer and
tighten down a bolt using a spanner and holding the other end of the
bolt in the limb with a screwdriver. (The larger discs are used for
the legs, the smaller ones for the arms and head). Repeat for the other
limbs. Tighten to where you can just move the limb. It might feel too
tight now, but once the bear is stuffed it will slacken off a bit.
- Stuff the arms and legs firmly. Start with small
amounts of stuffing and work it well into the toe and paw areas. Continue
stuffing until the limb is firmly filled. Pay particular attention to
the area around the joint. Close the opening with heavy thread, using
a ladder stitch. Comb out any trapped fur.
- Next stuff the head. Start with a small amount of
stuffing and push it into the nose area. Keep pushing small amounts
of the stuffing in and moulding it into position with your hands until
the area is firm and tight. The nose area is very important as this
is where you will embroider and it must be very firm. Once you have
a hard, smooth, nose, larger amounts of stuffing can be added.
Run a gathering stitch around the
neck edge using strong thread. Fit the long bolt, with a washer and
disc on it, into the opening with the bolt protruding out and pull
the gathers tightly together. Make a few crissdouble cross stitches
and secure. Attach the head by slipping the locking bolt through the
small gap you left at the top of the body, slip on the remaining disc
and washer and tighten down the nut with the spanner whilst holding
the bolt with locking pliers between the nut and the disc, and continue
tightening down the nut. Cut off the bolt leaving about 12mm (1/2)
below the nut. You will need to use bolt cutters. Start stuffing the
body, making sure you get the stuffing well into the hump, around
the shoulders, well into the bottom and around the leg joints. Close
up the back seam with a ladder stitch starting at the top and finishing
with a few overstitches. Push up some more stuffing as you close up.
Push the needle back down and out about two inches further down the
seam and cut the end off.
small sharp scissors, trim the muzzle taking tiny snips. Keep the
pile even and symmetrical. Keep looking at the bear from all angles
so you dont trim off much of the fur. Using at least a 10cm
(4) needle, thread a long double length of very strong thread,
knot it and bring it up, under the back of the chin and out to one
sideof the nose. Take the needle back through the nose to the other
side, pulling up snugly. Pass the needle back through the nose, this
time a little higher up the bridge, and gently pull up the threads.
Continue doing this several times finishing just below the point where
you will insert the eyes. Each time you insert the needle, it should
be just a tiny bit above where you have come out. The stitch needs
to be big enough so that it does not pull through the fabric and small
enough so that you dont see it.
Determine the placement of the eyes
with glass-headed pins. When you are sure the eyes are even, make
a small hole with an awl where each eye is to go. (Not directly on
the seam). Take about 1 metre (39) of strong thread, it and
slip the looped shank of the eye to the centre and tie two knots.
Gently pinch the loop together using needle-nosed pliers. Slip the
four ends of the thread through a long 12.5cm (5) doll needle
and push it through the eye hole up into the head and out where the
opposite ear will go. Make sure the eye loop is pulled through the
eye hole up in the fabric and into the stuffing. Repeat this process
for the other eye.
Remove the needle and pushing with
one hand on the eye, pull the threads tightly up. Now separate the
threads, two on each side and with a shorter needle, thread one side
of the threads and take a tiny stitch from the exit point coming up
about 3mm (1/8) away. Take off the needle, grasp each side of
the threads, loop them twice around and pull tightly together while
pushing on the eye. This will keep the threads tight, enabling you
to make a double knot. Thread the ends back into the shorter needle
(one side at a time), and push down into the same area coming out
further away. Cut off the ends and repeat for the other eye.
To stitch the nose use at least 60cm
(24) of light coloured Perle embroidery floss, start at the
centre top of the nose, just above the seam, and with close parallel
stitches work your way to one side of the nose, back to the centre
and to the other side. Keep looking at the nose from different angles
to keep it symmetrical. Take several stitches back and forth underneath
the nose and cut off the thread. Change to a darker floss, make a
tiny knot in the end and push the needle back down under the nose
stitches and out at the bottom tip of the nose, ready to form the
mouth. If you have sewn the gusset on straight, the stitch will be
directly over the seam. Push the needle back down, about 6mm (1/4)
away from the nose, forming a bar, and out at an angle, about 12mm
(1/2) to one side. Bring the needle back up through the bar
without piercing the mohair, and down into the other side to form
an upsidedown Y. Check to make sure the mouth is even,
then bring the needle back through the nose, take several stitches
back and forth underneath and cut off.
Next stitch the claws. Thread a length
of the darker floss, make a tiny knot and pull it through at the seam.
Stitch four evenly spaced claws up through the felt pad and down through
the mohair just above the seam. To secure, push the needle back into
the mohair a fraction away from where you came out, take several cross
stitches underneath and cut off the thread. To attach the ears, trim
out the fur in the centre of each ear (front side only.) Turn up about
6mm (1/4) and hold in place as you pin the ear in position.
Use long glass-headed pins that cannot be lost in the bears
head. Move the ears around until you are satisfied with their appearance.
Stitch in place using a ladder stitch around the back of the ear,
then back and forth through the head, catching the front of the ear,
reinforcing the curve. Take several stitches at either end to ensure
the ear is firmly in place.
For more details on designs by Christina Harris
call 01892 660 235.