I use this program and it really works! No more popups and it's a free download!
In this sack the yoke extends below the armholes, and in place of being worked back and forth around the neck it is worked from the bottom of the yoke across the shoulders; each shoulder being worked in a point. This is a simpler way of making a yoke than the old way, for in this there are no increases to make. Begin the yoke with 60 loose ch, which extend across the shoulder, 3 ch extra to turn. In the 4th ch make this new and original rib stitch: * wool over hook, draw up a loop 1-2 inch long, wool over hook, draw up another loop same size, wool over hook, draw up another loop same size, wool over hook, draw up another loop same size, now wool over and draw through all but the last loop on the hook, wool over and draw through the two loops and pull up the wool tight, now 1 ch. This is one st and is repeated from * in every second ch, making 30 sts in the row.
2d row-Three ch to turn. The sts are made the same as in first row, but are placed differently. In place of going in a ch you make the loops around the top of each st; this is done by inserting the hook on the right side of st and bringing it out on left side of st, and bring the loops through this place; this makes the heavy rib. Two rows make one rib and each row must have 30 sts. Repeat the 2d row until you have three full ribs for the shoulder.
Now for back of neck work 14 sts, one rib and a half, add 32 ch loosely for right front, three extra to turn, work 30 sts again until there are 8 whole ribs n the back yoke. Break wool and fasten at the neck.
To work the fronts, make 14 sts, 2 ribs for each front. For the under-arm, work 4 sts in length two rows or one rib at either the front or back yoke, and join it to make the armhole. To make the extension shoulders, begin 2 sts away from the short rib and work back and forth, missing two sts at the start and the end of each row until to a point. A little over two ribs brings it to the point.
For the skirt, start with right side toward you, the side that counts whole ribs. Always begin row with 3 ch, 2 d c in each row, working the d c around the st to give a good strong body, in the centre of each rib make a Rose Treble Shell of 4 sts. * Work this stitch by winding 18 times over hook, insert in rib, bring wool through, wool over, and draw through 2 loops, wool over and draw through 2 loops, wool over and draw through the rest of the coil, wool over and draw through 1 loop and pull up wool tight to curl the coil. Repeat the detail from * for each stitch in shell. This row has 20 shells with 4 doubles between each shell.
2nd row-Chain 3, d c in each d c, and in shells work ch 2, a d c in centre of shell, ch 2, a d c n same place, ch 2, then d c in d c again.
3d row-Same as first, only there is a different foundation now. The d c are made in the d c and the shells in the centre of 2 chain in centre of shell.
Alternate the 2d and 3d rows until there are 7 shell rows; but in the 4th shell row use five Rose Treble, in the 5th the same, in the 6th use 6, and in the 7th use 7, and in this last use s c over the d c in place of d c.
The sleeves are made like the skirt. Begin on the under arm, manage to work around so you get six shells in the row and so you get a shell on the point of shoulder. Work the collar and front scallops to correspond.