Quantum Mechanic, New Route
June 3. Temperatures were already starting to soar in Yosemite. The token week of spring had long since passed, apart from a freakish cold snap that had dropped graupel and sleet two days before. Sleep had come notably easy. I woke at 4:45 a.m., rested and feeling that this was the day. I still hadn’t redpointed "Planck’s Constant," the second pitch of the route, but had been on it half a dozen times in two months. Three of these efforts were serious redpoint attempts.
Everything was lining up well. Jay "Shaggy" Selvidge also felt unusually fresh and alive. There was a good feeling in the air. We had anticipated the day when everything would come together and we would find ourselves walking to the base with this feeling.
Our intentions were realized. Planck’s went down with fifty feet of (mostly positive) steep laybacking, smeary feet, slamming in everything from a number four Camelot to a six Yates. I chose to skip a reachy clip in the middle of a bouldery move to conserve energy and the pitch saw its first redpoint. I would go on to successfully redpoint every pitch that day, leading all six crux pitches of 5.12 or 5.13 to establish Quantum Mechanic (V 5.13a, 15 pitches).
- Rob Miller, USA