The Remuh Synagogue of Krakow, Poland
The Remuh Synagogue is named after Rabbi Moshe Isserles
(c.1525-1572), known by the Hebrew acronym REMA (pronounced REMU in Yiddish),
the famous author of Ha-Mappah (literally "The Tablecloth"), a collection
of commentaries and additions that complement Rabbi Josef Caro's Shulhan
Arukh with Ashkenazi traditions and customs. According to one popular
tradition, Israel (Isserl) ben Josef, the grandson son of Moshe Auerbach
of Regensburg founded the synagogue in honor of his son Moshe Isserles,
who already in his youth was famed for his erudition. Following other tradition,
the synagogue was founded by Rabbi Moshe Isserles in memory of Golda, his
first wife who passed away at the age of twenty. However, the Hebrew inscription
of the foundation tablet reads: "Husband, Reb Israel, son of Josef of blessed
memory, bound in strength, to the glory of the Eternal One, and of his wife
Malka, daughter of Eleazar, let her soul be received among the living, built
this synagogue, the house of the Lord, from her bequest. Lord restore the
treasure of Israel", meaning that the synagogue was built in memory of Malka,
the wife of Israel ben Josef. It should be pointed out that Israel ben Josef
was a wealthy banker who settled in Krakow only in 1519, following the expulsion
of Jews from the German city of Regensburg.
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Southern
façade of the Remuh Synagogue with the tombstones of the
family of Moshe Isserles
Model - Permanent Exhibit of Beth Hatefutsoth
Beth Hatefutsoth - Visual Documentation Center
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Entrance
to the Remuh Synagogue
Model - Permanent Exhibit of Beth Hatefutsoth
Beth Hatefutsoth - Visual Documentation Center
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The Remuh Synagogue was built in Kazimierz (also known
as Kushmir by Jews), now a district of Krakow, an area located on the bank
of the Vistula River, immediately to the south of the Royal Castle on the
Wawel Hill. Kazimierz had a Jewish community since the 14th century,
and after the end of the 15th century when the Jews of Krakow
were expelled from the city, it became the main Jewish neighborhood in the
region and one of the largest Jewish communities in Poland. Originally called
the "New Synagogue" to distinguish it from the Old Synagogue (Stara Boznica,
in Polish) the Remuh Synagogue was built in 1553 at the edge of a newly
established Jewish cemetery (today known as the Old Cemetery) on land owned
by Israel ben Josef. This date is stated clearly on the foundation tablet.
Nevertheless, the royal permission by King Sigismund II Augustus was obtained
in November 1556, after long opposition from the Church. As it is hard to
believe that the construction actually began without the royal permission,
therefore the inscription should be understood as possibly referring to
the date when the decision to build a second synagogue in Kazimierz was
taken by its founder. The year 1552 must have been a terrible time for the
family of Israel ben Isserles: his mother, wife, and daughter-in- law, the
first wife of Rabbi Moshe Isserles, and probably other family members died
in the epidemic that hit Krakow that year, in addition to numerous Jewish
inhabitants of Kazimierz. The first building of the synagogue, probably
a wooden structure, was destroyed in a fire in April 1557, but following
a new permission granted by King Sigismund II Augustus of Poland, a second
building of masonry was erected in place in 1557 after the plans of Stanislaw
Baranek, a Krakow architect.
The original late Renaissance style edifice underwent
a number of changes during the 17th and the 18th centuries.
The current building traces its design to the restoration work of 1829,
to which some technical improvements were introduced during the restoration
of 1933 conducted under the supervision of the architect Herman Gutman.
During the Holocaust, the synagogue was sequestered by the German Trust
Office (Treuhandstelle) and served as a storehouse
of firefighting equipment, having been despoiled of its valuable ceremonial
objects and historic furbishing, including the bimah. However, the
building itself was not destroyed. In 1957, thanks to the efforts of the
local Jewish community and of Akiba Kahane, the Joint representative in
Poland, the Remuh Synagogue underwent a major restoration that reestablished
much of the prewar appearance of the interior.
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Interior
view of the Remuh Synagogue
Postcard, 1920s
Photo album by Bnai Brith, Krakow
Beth Hatefutsoth - Visual Documentation Center
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Holy Ark
of the Remuh Synagogue
Postcard, 1920s
Photo album by Bnai Brith, Krakow
Beth Hatefutsoth - Visual Documentation Center
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The entrance to the synagogue courtyard is located at
40 Szeroka St. (in the past also known as the Main Street) at the heart
of the historic Jewish quarter of Kazimierz. Above the gate is an arch with
the Hebrew inscription: "The New Synagogue Dedicated to the Blessed Memory
of Rabbi Remu". The courtyard walls carry inscriptions in memory of the
Jews of Krakow who perished in the Holocaust. The main room of the synagogue
is accessed through a small entrance hall on the north side of the building
next to a separate entrance to the women's section. It has white painted
limestone walls with large round headed windows in the north and south sides
and lunettes on the east and west sides. A number of chandeliers, some standing,
and others hanging from the ceiling contribute to the bright and airy atmosphere
of the interior. The prayer hall features a centrally situated rectangular
bimah with a reconstructed wrought-iron enclosure that has two entrances,
one displaying an 18th century polychrome double door coming
from a destroyed synagogue outside Krakow. The bimah door is decorated
with a crowned menorah in gilded bas-reliefs whose style appears to have
been inspired by the popular art of the region. The late Renaissance style
Holy Ark has an Art Nouveau door, above which there are Hebrew inscriptions
from the Bible. A candle (ner tamid) with the Hebrew inscription
"An eternal flame for the soul of Remu, a man of blessed memory" is situated
at the left side of the Holy Ark, while at its right a reconstructed plaque
commemorates the place where Rabbi Moshe Isserles used to pray. One of the
chairs on the eastern wall is reserved in his honor. The foundation tablet
has been preserved near the southern wall. A clock presented by Chaim Herzog,
the sixth President of Israel during his visit to the synagogue in 1992
is one of the latest additions to the otherwise simple furbishing. The women's
section was originally located on the first floor of a wooden structure
connected to the northern wall of the synagogue. It has since undergone
major restorations and the present women's gallery is adjacent to the northern
wall of the praying hall.
The Remuh synagogue, the smallest of all historic synagogues
of Kazimierz, currently functions as a place of worship serving the tiny Jewish
community of Krakow and the many Jewish visitors to the city.
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Holy Ark
of the Remuh Synagogue, 1973
Beth Hatefutsoth - Visual Documentation Center
Courtesy Tadeusz Kowalski, Poland
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Doors of
the bimah in the Remuh Synagogue, 1979
Beth Hatefutsoth - Visual Documentation Center
Courtesy Isaiah Weinberg, Israel
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The old Jewish cemetery of Krakow is located just
behind the Remuh synagogue and is an integral part of a unique historical
complex. The inscription above the current gate, moved from its previous
location at the original gate on the Jakuba St., testifies that the cemetery
was founded in 1552, being one of the earliest extant in Poland. The Old
Cemetery served as the main burial place for the Jews of Krakow until 1800,
although some prominent Jews were buried there after that date. In 1845,
at the intervention of Rabbi Dov Beer Meisels (1798-1870), who emphasized
the historic and spiritual importance of the cemetery, the authorities of
the City of Krakow cancelled a town-planning scheme that could have led
to the destruction of the graveyard. However, the cemetery fell in decay
and in the 1940s, the Nazis brought about almost total ruin. Only about
a dozen tombstones survived the Holocaust destruction, among them the graves
of Rabbi Moshe Isserles and his family.
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Tombstone
of Rabbi Gershon Saul Yomtov Lipman Heller
Beth Hatefutsoth - Visual Documentation Center
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Burial place
of Rabbi Moshe Isserles and his family, Krakow, 1970s
Beth Hatefutsoth - Visual Documentation Center
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During the late 1940s and the 1950s, hundreds of old
tombstones were uncovered by archeological excavations conducted on the
grounds of the cemetery. Some of the tombstones are thought to have been
deliberately buried in order to escape devastation by the invading Swedish
troops in 1704. Hundreds of fragments were fixed on the inner side of the
cemetery wall along Szeroka St. It soon became known as the Wailing Wall
serving as a memorial to the destroyed Jewish community of Krakow. Some
of the recovered tombstones belong to illustrious rabbis and members of
the Jewish community of Krakow, among them the most venerated is that of
Rabbi Moshe Isserles. His tombstone is covered with lots of notes with requests
from pilgrims coming from all over the world.
Members of the Isserles family buried in the Old
Cemetery of Krakow:
Rabbi Moshe Isserles, known as REMU
(c.1525-1572)
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Israel ben Josef (d.1568), father
of Rabbi Moshe Isserles, a merchant, and banker
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Malka (d.1552), mother of Rabbi Moshe
Isserles
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Golda (d.1552), daughter of Rabbi
Shalom Shachna of Lublin and the first wife of Rabbi Moshe Isserles
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Gitel (d.1552), daughter of Moshe
Auerbach of Regensburg
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Miriam Bella (d.1617), sister of Rabbi
Moshe Isserles
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Yitzhak (d. after 1885), known as
Yitzhak the Rich, brother of Rabbi Moshe Isserles, a merchant
and banker
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Drezel (d. before 1560), daughter
of Rabbi Moshe Isserles and wife of Simcha Bunem Meisels
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Other illustrious Jews buried
in the Old Cemetery of Krakow:
Yitzhak Jakubowicz (d.1653), merchant,
banker, and leader of the Jewish community of Krakow during
the first half of the 17th century, founder of the
Izaak Synagogue in Kazimierz.
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Mordechai Margulies (d.1617), head
of the Krakow yeshiva from 1591 to 1617
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Shmuel bar Meshulam (d.1552), physician
to the Polish kings Sigismund I "The Old" (1506-1548) and Sigismund
II Augustus (1548-1572)
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Joel Sirkis (1561-1640), known as
BACH, chief rabbi of Krakow from 1618 until 1640 and head of
the local yeshiva
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Eliezer Ashkenazi (1512-1585), son
of Eliahu, he was rabbi in Cairo, Egypt, in Famagusta, Cyprus,
and in Poznan, Poland, before settling in Krakow
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Yitzhak Landau (d.1768), chief rabbi
of Krakow from 1754 until 1768
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Gershon Saul Yomtov Lipman Heller
(1579-1654), son of Nathan, a rabbi in Vienna, then in Prague
and a number of small towns in Poland, he was chief rabbi of
Krakow and head of the local yeshiva
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HFG
Address
The Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery
40 Szeroka St.
Kazimierz
Krakow
Poland
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