Founded in 1902, The American Alpine Club is a nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting climbing knowledge, conserving mountain environments, and serving the American climbing community. For more information, please email


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The American Alpine Journal

Published since 1929, The American Alpine Journal is the premiere annual record of significant mountaineering and long rock climbing ascents worldwide. American Alpine Club members receive the 500-page American Alpine Journal (retail $35) free with membership.

On this Web page you will find links to free downloadable PDF files of various AAJ articles, guidelines for submitting new climb reports to the AAJ, and indexes to the complete AAJ collection.


The AAJ comprehensive index allows you to locate reports of climbs based on region, country, climber, and peak name. PDF versions are available by clicking on:

AAJ Index A-K 1929-2005 (2.9 MBytes)
AAJ Index L-Z 1929-2005 (2.8 MBytes)
AAJ Book Reviews Index 1929-2005 (552 KBytes)


If you recently completed a long new route, we would like a report for the next AAJ. Please consult our AAJ Submissions Guidelines prior to sending materials. Questions should be directed to the editor (

Purchasing the AAJ

The current edition of the AAJ is available in many bookstores and climbing shops, and can be ordered directly from The Mountaineers Books (; 800.553.4453). Back issues for many years are available. The AAJ will soon be available for purchase electronically on CD/DVD and as pay-per-download on the Web.


The following articles are available as free downloadable PDFs by clicking the links. We encourage reproduction of these articles on websites and in print, but credit must be given to the American Alpine Journal and the authors; contact the Editor at before publication.

AAJ 2004 Contents, FOJ, Preface: Click here for the Table of Contents, Preface, and Friends of the AAJ for the current edition of the American Alpine Journal. (1 MBytes)

AAJ Grade Comparison Chart: This 4-page chart compares the world�s rock, ice, and alpine climbing grades and is useful for traveling and for deciphering the AAJ and other international climbing publications. Sponsored by W. L. Gore/Shipton-Tilman Grants. (472 KBytes)

A Logical Dilemma: When it comes to bolts, one climber�s �progress� becomes another climber�s theft from the future of adventure. This article centers on today�s longest sport route, �Logical Progression� on Mexico�s El Gigante wall, but the issues and debaters are worldwide. Contributors include Jeff Achey, Chris Bonington, Sean Easton, Carlos Garcia, Alexander Huber, Royal Robbins, and many more. Originally published in AAJ 2003. (1.1 MBytes)

The Tyrol Declaration: In the fall of 2002 nearly 100 of the world�s leading climbers gathered in Innsbruck to debate the �Best Practices in Mountain Sports.� The Tyrol Declaration is their consensus on contemporary standards of behavior on 10 major themes, from how to deal with injured climbers to the ethical use of bolts in the mountains. Originally published in AAJ 2003. (768 KBytes)

Cerro Torre � �A Mountain Unveiled: A revealing analysis of Cerro Torre�s tallest tale�: This article, by Rolando Garibotti, explores Cesare Maestri�s claim to the first ascent of Argentina�s Cerro Torre. Published in AAJ 2004, pages 138-155.

Cerro Torre � Garibotti Bibliography: The complete reference list for �A Mountain Unveiled: A revealing analysis of Cerro Torre�s tallest tale,� by Rolando Garibotti. The article, including a highly abbreviated bibliography, was published in AAJ 2004, pages 138-155.

Success and Death on Mt. Everest: Historic trends, charts, graphs, and careful statistical analysis of those who climbed and/or died on Mt. Everest. This is the complete 8-page article by Raymond B. Huey and Richard Salisbury that was condensed in AAJ 2003.

AAC Club Activities in 2003: What the American Alpine Club regional sections were up to in 2003. From AAJ 2004. (168 Kbytes)

Contact Address for Submissions and Questions:

The American Alpine Journal
710 Tenth Street, Suite 140
Golden, Colorado 80401 USA
phone: 303.384.0110
fax: 303.384.0111