Lebanon’s few remaining Jews live out their lives in the shadows
Downtown Beirut synagogue stands as testament to what was once a thriving community
By Rym Ghazal
Daily Star staff
Thursday, May 17, 2007
Lebanon’s few remaining Jews live out their lives in the shadows
BEIRUT: Just a two-minute walk from the sit-in launched almost five months ago by the Hizbullah-led opposition, an abandoned and crumbling synagogue stands as the last remnant of a once-thriving Jewish community in Beirut. Known as the Magen Abraham Central Synagogue, it is located in the heart of Beirut in Wadi Abu Jmil, directly under the Grand Serail where Prime Minister Fouad Siniora works - an area that has become the focus of ongoing political tensions in Lebanon.
The synagogue’s rusty gates are held shut with chains, and its punctured roof howls when the wind blows. While thick weeds and grass have taken up residence around the building’s foundations, the Star of David still crowns its every column.
Given the obscurity of the structure - which dates to 1925 - amid the posh new edifices of the Beirut Central District, some people in the locale understandably said they were surprised a synagogue sits in the area.
Several private security guards patrol the area around the synagogue and have been instructed by Solidere, the publicly held company that owns many properties Downtown, to keep an eye on the place.
“Just in case of trouble,” said one security guard. “Besides the synagogue, there is also some private property around here [owned] by Jewish Lebanese.”
The site was allegedly part of Solidere’s renovation plan, initiated by slain former Prime Minister Rafik Hariri, but that has been put on hold.
Not far from Downtown, a Jewish cemetery in Sodeco contains hundreds of tombstones with names and epitaphs etched in Hebrew.
The Jewish community in Beirut, estimated at less than 100 and nearly impossible to identify, once numbered as many as 14,000 and can trace its roots bacy to 1000 BC
The Jews are one of 18 religious groups officially recognized in Lebanon but generally keep their religious identity secret for fear of persecution from other sects.
“No one likes us here, so we keep a low profile and pretend to be Christian or Muslim,” said one Jewish Lebanese businessman who spoke on the condition that he remain “untraceable.
“We can’t even bury or visit our loved ones in the Jewish cemetery out of fear someone might see us,” he added.
A 2004 report said one out of 5,000 Jewish Lebanese citizens registered to vote had actually participated in municipal elections held that year. Most of those registered are believed to be deceased or to have fled during the Civil War that divided the country along sectarian lines in 1975.
The largest exodus of Jews from Lebanon began in earnest after 1982, when Israel invaded the country.
Some say most of the remaining community consists of old women, and one particular one, a 50-year-old known as Liza Sarour, lives in grave poverty in Wadi Abu Jmil and refuses to talk to the media.
The Jewish community was traditionally centered in Wadi Abu Jmil and Ras Beirut, with smaller numbers in the Chouf, Deir al-Qamar, Aley, Bhamdoun and Hasbayya.
Aaron-Micael Beydoun, a Lebanese-American, is on a quest to revive the history of the Jewish community in Lebanon. He launched a Web site last year, The Jews of Lebanon (www.thejewsoflebanon.org), as a forum for documenting the community’s history in Lebanon.
“I launched it because I refused to believe fellow Lebanese have been forgotten and left in the shadows based only on the premise of their religious belonging and [subjected] to hollow and ignorant geopolitical generalizations attributed to foreign factors,” he said.
Beydoun hails from Bint Jbeil in the South, although his family left Lebanon in the early 1970s due to growing security concerns. Asserting that he has “no Jewish roots whatsoever,” Beydoun said he still cares about a group of Lebanese who have been “completely isolated.”
Beydoun explained that while the first name Aaron is often given to Jewish children, his given name originates from the Arabic name Haroun-Micayeel.
“Aaron-Micael is an English form, as I was born and raised in the US and my parents both immigrated here when they were very young [and], naturally, they gave their children American names to adapt more to mainstream society,” he said.
Beydoun lambasted those who would judge him merely by the spelling of his name, and labeled Lebanon’s political elite as hypocrites for empty calls to respect marks of difference.
“The politicians flaunt their hollow slogans of ‘national unity’ when in essence this statement has no substance whatsoever; national unity is not just tolerance but acceptance of all,” he said.
“Yesterday the Jewish community in Lebanon was silenced - who will be next? Maronites, Shiites, Druze, Sunnis, Orthodox, who?” he asked.
He recalled the story of a girl who grew up thinking she was Christian until her parents told her when she was 23 that they were Jewish but had hidden their ancestry to protect themselves from persecution.
Beydoun has been in touch with the media-shy Jewish community and said that many of them own businesses in Beirut and Jbeil.
“I even know of a few families where the Jewish mothers are still practicing their faith in West Beirut and are married to Muslims,” he added.
“Muslims respect people of the book, and Jews are people of the book,” a Hizbullah official told The Daily Star.
“Muslims would never destroy a place of worship or cemeteries,” he added.
But whatever Beydoun’s feelings on preserving the Jewish community, a community he believes is “in waiting,” some of those interviewed near the synagogue said the place of worship should be “destroyed,” but most stressed that the Jewish cemetery should be left in peace.
“We respect the dead, unlike [the Jews],” said Tony Franjieh, member of the Christian Free Patriotic Movement, one of the main opposition parties.
“Unlike the Israelis, we respect places of worship and cemeteries,” he added, referring to the ongoing Israeli excavations around the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem.
While most of the Lebanese interviewed expressed a dislike for the Jewish community in Lebanon, Franjieh summed up the opinions voiced by many: “It’s OK for them to come pray here, but not live here.”
But some of those participating in the sit-in near the synagogue in Downtown Beirut do not share the same sentiments.
“The synagogue is empty now, and that is how it will remain,” said Hassan Khansa, one of the Hizbullah demonstrators camped out just a short stroll from Magen Abraham.
“Good riddance,” said Khansa, who, like many other people in the country, believes that Jewish Lebanese work as “spies” for Israel.
“Their loyalty is to Israel, and so they belong there, not here,” he said, echoing similar statements made by other demonstrators in the tent city.