At the Artist's cafe, music's the food of love

Matt Wilce discovers that the new wave of theme restaurants offers gimmicky gourmet experiences

In an industry driven by fads and trends, novelty is no stranger. When it comes to culinary combinations-just look at any Japanese pizza menu for a few surprises-many restaurants now seek to lure patrons with increasingly bizarre and outrageous themes. Shifting the emphasis from the food to a total, almost theatrical experience, you can now enjoy a little flagellation with your fillet in a medieval dungeon or dine beneath a rain forest canopy and simulated storms.

Although the capital’s Hard Rock Cafe started the ball rolling back in 1983, Osaka seems to lead the nation when it comes to theme eateries, with restaurant groups such as C’est la Vie and UG Growing Up Corporation originating there. Tokyo’s theme restaurants have mushroomed in the last few years with the influx of several companies specializing in increasingly outre establishments. While conservative companies such as Global Dining prefer to stick to regional themes-their Monsoon Cafe is a favorite blend of pan-Asian flavors-others go for full on shock tactics.

The C’est la Vie group’s concept of a Central European dungeon complete with cells and skeletons-the blue plastic mini-skirted policewomen are a definite Japanese anomaly-may not provide low-key dining, but The Lockup’s cuffs and carbonara combo has spawned 13 branches nationwide. Following the success of their Shinjuku restaurant, which opened last November, a further two branches are set to open in Ikebukuro and Shibuya in early September. In addition to an eclectic course menu, The Lockup also promises to provide twice-nightly “heart pounding attractions” designed to add a little terror to your meal. A similar custodial experience can be had at the Alcatraz chain, which now boasts three prison restaurants-Alcatraz B.C., Alcatraz A.D. and Alcatraz Asia. Famous for their sexily clad jailers and verisimilitude-toilet paper napkins, for example-Alcatraz offers izakaya fare that probably won’t rattle your bars as much as the abusive wardens.

Much more enticing horrors for diners to sink their fangs into await at Ginza’s upscale Vampire Cafe, which opened this June. Draped in sanguine velvet, the decadent interiors invite those with a bloodlust to make their way to the tables on an under-lit walkway of crimson corpuscles. Taking things up a notch, Vampire Cafe offers Japanese-based course menus (JY2980, JY3980 and JY5000) that should make their mass-market rivals’ blood run cold.

UG Growing Up Corporation-responsible for Buttu Trick-Bar, Elephant Cafe and Bobby’s Bar-have the perfect antidote to stave off un-deadly hunger pangs with their Cathedral-esque Christon Cafe. An extension of the their religion-influenced Asian restaurants, this Christian-themed eatery has become a popular spot for Tokyoites in need of culinary salvation. Not content with their current four dining denominations, UG Growing Up are set to open a new Arabian-themed establishment, Le Aladdin, later this month.

While new motifs and chains continue to proliferate, the next stage in the evolution of the theme restaurant is a total experience that extends beyond the restaurant itself. Daiba Little Hong Kong, which opened in December at Odaiba’s Decks, recreates downtown Kowloon complete with trompe l'oeil renditions of the back streets and a looped soundtrack of fighting cats and roaring 747s. Lining the faux streets are eateries that range from authentic Cantonese restaurants and dim sum at Shi An Gyoza to great fresh seafood from the tank at Super Star Seafood, and ramen. Not so much theme restaurant as theme mall, the venture may mark the future of the city’s “entertainment-dining” scene as the search for increasingly novel eating experiences continues.