Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 21:11:07 -0800 From: Linda Boudreau (firstname.lastname@example.org) Subject: [BOND] Bedjacket This is a pattern that I have adapted for a friend on the list, but have not worked out the yarn requirements. I would prefer to see it knit in keyplate 2 yarns as it would be softer, but it could be knit with keyplate 3 and use the appropriate guage for the yarns. Ripple Edge Bed Cape:- Keyplate 2 - 10 2 ounce balls of sport weight yarn - estimate. Tension - 24 stitches and 28 rows.= 4 inches Maintain stitches, adjust for rows if necessary. Note:- This is a seam as you go pattern so that it can be adapted to any size the more panels the wider the width. This is courtesy of a picture that our friend Lila Jones mailed me. I shall be knitting this one personally for myself, and as a gift for my mother in law. The basics for the pattern are as follows, as it is knit in a T shape and allows for ease of movement while wearing. Each panel measures 4 inches wide if you were to knit for a finished chest or bust measurement of 38 - 40 you would be knitting a total of:_ Back 40 divided by two equals 20 + allowance for ease of 4 inches. total of 6 bands. For the front each side you would knit a total of 3 panels each side. For the sleeves which will be set in "T" shaped you would knit a total of 5 bands for each sleeve. This technique also allows for seam as you go. Basic panel. Using a closed edge cast on and a claw weight for weight, cast on one stitch. Increase one stitch each side of every row for a total of 25 stitches. Ladder up the centre stitch so that there is one knit stitch - this is knit as wrong side is facing and will be purl when it is finally done....this is for detail only. You could also leave this needle out of place and run a fine ribbon through the ladders if desired. Knit for a total of 160 rows. Cast off onto waste yarn. Second Panel:- Work as above to 25 stitches. Now using the seam as you go technique add a panel as you knit..or seam them together later, your choice. Back a total of 6 panels. Joined. - Set aside. Fronts - a total of 2 sets of 3 panels joined = set aside. Sleeves:- Make bands as above adjusting the rows to 128 instead of 160 rows. Join as above--Make two sets. - ---------------------------------------" T" To join this into a bedjacket - remember this is loose fitting and very forgiving. Join the back panels to the front panels at the shoulder seams. You will now have a long rectangle. Set the cast off edges - squared edges of the sleeves into the shoulder seams matching the centre seam of the centre panel of the sleeve. Seam from the beginning of the 25th stitch, so tha the points hang down on the sleeves, down the sleeve, down the side to the bottom just where the 25 stitch line starts, so that there are points on the bottom of the backet and on the ends of the sleeves. - ---------------------------Front band:- Rehang one side at a time onto the frame and evenly pick up stitches to where the point starts. Knit even in plain knitting for a total of 8 rows. Knit one more row, and convert this manually to a knit row, reversing every stitch, as this will be a turning row. Knit a further 8 rows, and let this turn to the back.. Repeat on the other side. Turn bands to inside and slip stitch down. This must be done before the neckband is added. Neckband. Rehang the back, the front and the front bands evenly onto the needle bed. Repeat for band same as bottom. Turn to inside and tack down. Make a twisted cord, or add some gorgeous ribbon and leave it hanging loose. - ----------------------This is gorgeous done in pastels of blue, pink and green, it would also be lovely done in one of the sport weight verigateds that are soft and running a ribbon up the centre. Another option if you have lots of time is to convert every stitch until you get to the 25 stitches to garter stitch, that would be rehanging each row, then the picot points would really stand ouot. - ----------------When mine is done will take a picture and send to Jenny....have a lot of to do's on my list lately. Practise making an afghan this way using a different pastel or bright crayon colour for each strip, make a baby afghan to start, but rather than end with a straight edge, end with a pointed one by decreasing back down to one stitch when the desired length is reached and not doing the centre stitch in the purl stitch, but just plain knitting. Another decorative way to create this is when increasing from one stitch to the 25 stitches, move a needle out each side, and make lece holes, then proceed from the 25 stitch mark up, it will give a very daintu look to the bottom. If desired you could also shape the last panel on the front that faces the band into a cured edge, by casting off 3 - 4 stitches on row 150 and decrease oen stitch each neck edge to approximately 8 stiches, and you would have a full curved line for the necband. You could also add buttons and button holes. Linda Bonding on the Net. " I cried because I had no shoes - until I met a man who had no feet." " Live life one day at a time but make it a masterpiece." email@example.com (Linda ) http:\\www.geocties.com\Paris\9197\sheep.htm http:\\www.keyway.net\crafts\lbpats.knit ----------------- Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 11:46:21 -0500 From: J Merritt (firstname.lastname@example.org) Subject: [BOND] Bed jacket Hi, I have made several bed jackets over the years that are simply a wide scarf with cuffs. Determine the length to knit the "scarf" by measuring from wrist bone, up the arm, around the back, down the second arm, and to the wrist bone. The width can be any you chose, but I find that a width from top of shoulder to middle of back is best. Draw a rectangle. Put the length measurement on the longer side of the rectangle and the width measurement on the shorter side. You will be knitting from wrist bone to wrist bone. Swatch with the yarn you will be using and in the pattern you chose. Calculate your gauge. Multiply the width measurement by the stitches per inch, and the length measurement by the rows per inch of gauge. Measure around the fullest part of the hand. This is usually around the knuckles and thumb. Multiply times the stitches per inch. This is the number of stitches needed for the cuff. Cast on with waste yarn the number of stitches you have calculated for the width. Knit the number of rows you have calculated for the length. Decrease evenly across the row to the number of stitches needed for the cuff. (This means that if you have 50 stitches for the garment and need 25 for the cuff, take every other stitch off the needle and put it on the same needle with its neighbor. There will be two stitches on every needle. Not every measurement comes out that easy. Most require some needles with two stitches on them and some with one stitch.) Now move all stitches towards the center so there are no empty needles within your knitting. Work several rows for the cuff. The cuffs can be the length you chose, either the exact length or doubled and folded back. Bind off. Rehang the stitches from the cast on edge doubling the stitches as needed. Work the second cuff to match the first. Good luck, Jennie
|Back to the Bond List Hints and Tips Page||
Please e-mail any comments to me at email@example.com
Author : Steph Thornton.
Last modified on : 8th November 1999.