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 INSTRUCTIONS

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"Take your time to learn all you can about your TUBB 2000 rifle. There are numerous features that set this firearm apart from all the others, and learning how to use them to your advantage really pays off."

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TUBB 2000 ON-LINE MANUAL, PAGE 8

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00Prices and specifications are subject to change without notice.

xAnschutz Trigger

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Introduction

Familiarization

Rifle operation

Stock adjustment

Sight installation

Fine tuning

Anschutz trigger

Barrel changing

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Overview

The trigger on your TUBB 2000 is the superb German-made Anschutz two stage competition unit. Rifles equipped with this trigger have won countless national and international championships. In my opinion it is the finest available and this is the first magazine fed centerfire rifle that offers an Anschutz trigger standard. This guide will help you understand how the trigger system functions and how to use its adjustments to attain optimum shooting performance.

Out of the box, the Anschutz trigger on your TUBB 2000 has been pre-set with excellent characteristics. A majority of serious riflemen will find the trigger to be controllable and efficient as is, but for ultimate performance, it's important to experience what can be accomplished through understanding this thoroughly adjustable system.

The TUBB 2000 was engineered so that these adjustments would be safely hidden from the elements. To adjust trigger pull characteristics, you will need to remove the magazine housing from the rifle. This is easily accomplished by removing two allen head screws as outlined in "Disassembly." Follow the steps as outlined.

Tools needed: supplied Anschutz trigger wrenches

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All adjustments made to the trigger assembly should be done only with an unloaded rifle! Always test the trigger adjustment by dry firing several times prior to firing live ammunition. For safety's sake please familiarize yourself with trigger characteristics prior to shooting live ammunition.

Process & Suggestions

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Trigger screw locations.

[NOTE: The overtravel screw located immediately behind the trigger (8) has been removed on your TUBB 2000. It is not needed because there is enough spring pressure in the trigger itself to overcome the momentum of the trigger finger.]

Left side marks.

Right side marks.

[NOTE: Looking at the either side of the trigger, there is a scale of index marks on the trigger housing and an indicator on the link. This can be used as a reference to record first and second stage settings.]

DAVID TUBB --

My two stage trigger will have about two thirds of its total weight on the first stage. I usually prefer my trigger to have a 16-20 ounce total weight, which means the first stage will constitute approximately 12 to 16 ounces of the total trigger weight. I want the second stage sear engagement and weight heavy enough so that that when I take up the slack in the first stage the momentum of my finger moving through this first stage will not set off the second stage. When properly adjusted, you will be able to clearly feel when you reach the second stage stop. Additionally, don't be fooled by thinking that a super light trigger (6 ounces or less) will make you shoot better! A trigger which is in the 12 to 30 ounce total weight range is much more controllable and hence shootable.

I like about 0.150 inches of movement in the first stage. You may prefer more or less movement, but keep in mind this has nothing to do with the weight of the first stage. The Anschutz trigger provides many more tuning options, such as this one, than any other trigger I know of. However, some of the adjustments may slightly affect others, so always check the overall performance of the trigger after making changes in engagement or travel. With experience, you will see that adjustments made to this trigger are all about feel, not numbers. Plus, the design of the Anschutz trigger allows you to literally see the effect of adjustments: move the screws and watch the movement of the trigger parts.


STEP BY STEP
by David Tubb

1. The first step in adjusting the Anschutz trigger is determining the best position for the trigger itself. The trigger is position adjustable horizontally along its attachment rail and may also be moved laterally. Loosen the screw on the trigger face using the larger of the two provided wrenches and position the trigger to suit your shooting grip.

2. Look at the left side of the trigger body. There is a rectangular cam attached via an allen screw (11 in the above illustration). Loosen the allen screw (screw may have to be removed). Set the cam finger (pointer) so that it is at the top outside edge of the allen screw. This will correspond with the cam finger indicating on line 6 to 6-1/4 from the bottom. These reference lines are located on the link directly ahead of the cam finger. [Some of the index lines are miss-marked in certain triggers so it may be indicating between 7 and 7-1/4 when it is positioned as directed.]

Be sure not to overtighten this allen screw (using the short end of the allen wrench and the thumb and index finger is tight enough). Also be sure that the cam bracket is in line with the arm to which it is mounted.

The cam tip is meant to be able to move up and down the arm for adjustment. Its position affects the feel of the trigger since changing the amount of distance to and from the fulcrum point gives it a specific amount of leverage at each point. This makes the second stage break heavier (further up) or lighter (further down).

[When you move the cam finger you will likely have to readjust the sear engagement screw to get the proper feel.]

3. The two rear screws in the back of the trigger are for first stage (9, black screw) and second stage (10, silver screw) weights. I recommend you tighten the first stage (black) screw to increase it to the initial trigger load or feel desired. You will then use the second stage adjustment to fit your style of shooting. The first stage weight can then be adjusted to further preference later. However, it is important to understand that these adjustments are not independent of one another: lightening the first stage somewhat lightens the second, and vice versa.

4. The second stage sear engagement screw is located directly in front of the trigger (5). Moving the screw clockwise lessens the engagement of the second stage sear. If the screw is moved too far in then the second stage stop will disappear from the trigger stroke; as the trigger moved through its first stage, the rifle would fire without the shooter sensing any stop at the second stage. Back the screw out until you feel the second stage stop, and then I would recommend backing it out another 1/8 turn. This screw has a direct bearing on how crisp your trigger will feel; less engagement of the second stage sear will mean a crisper trigger until, as mentioned, you over-adjust and the second stage stop is removed. This screw adjustment only indirectly affects trigger pull weight; it primarily affects the feel of the trigger.

5. The first stage movement is controlled by the second screw directly in front of the trigger (4). First stage movement increases as the adjustment screw is backed out. Tightening the screw shortens and eventually eliminates first stage movement from the trigger (at that point you will have a single stage trigger). If you want to shoot a single stage trigger still follow the above directions in numerical order so that you get the type of engagement on the second stage that will result in a crisp trigger; then simply remove any first stage movement by tightening this screw.

6. The second (silver) screw at the rear of the trigger adjusts second stage weight. The black screw next to it adjusts the weight of the first stage. Turning either screw in increases weight, out decreases weight. Total trigger weight (first stage plus second stage) is adjustable from 10 ounces to an approximate total weight of 50-plus ounces.

[Please note that the weight range can vary depending on the particular trigger assembly installed on your rifle.]



Trigger Shoe
The trigger face on the Anschutz is adjustable for position length and face angle. Most shooters find they have the best control when the trigger finger naturally contacts the trigger at the fingertip -- and when the finger is naturally extended. Take time to work with this adjustment. It can also affect the feel of the trigger. Superior Shooting Systems Inc. has an accessory trigger that replaces the Anschutz trigger piece. It is knurled aluminum and EVERYONE who has tried it prefers it to stock. Click
HERE to learn more.


DAVID TUBB --

I find that a two stage trigger gives the shooter ultimate control. A two stage trigger is also much safer in operation than a single stage by reason that the total weight in a two stage is a product of the sums of both stages. In a two stage trigger the sear engagement is only minimal when the second stage is engaged; therefore, it is possible to have a trigger with a relatively light break weight, which is the effect of the second stage and is what the shooter feels as trigger release weight, while maintaining a relatively much heavier overall trigger pull weight. It is possible (and advisable) to consume the majority of total pull weight in the first stage (at least half), which leaves a lighter second stage while allowing the shooter to get on and off the trigger with much less chance of unintentionally firing the rifle.

 


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00Prices and specifications are subject to change without notice.

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