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GRIVEL NORTH AMERICA

VINCE ANDERSON


Age: 32
Education: Bachelor of Science, Architectural Engineering, University of Colorado, 1993
Profession: Guide, UIAGM certified 1998
www.skywardmountaineering.com

Vince doing the "Vertical Limit move" during the 2000 Ice Climbing World Championships in Piztal, Austria where he placed 6th.

Born in Colorado, Vince climbed his first mountain at age five and has been doing it ever since. Refusing to specialize, he climbs hard in the mountains, on sport mixed routes and at the crag. He'll place and clip bolts where appropriate and protect routes traditionally where appropriate - always respectful of local ethics. In 2002 he competed in the Ice Climbing World Cup events held in Russia, Italy, Austria, Switzerland and Quebec. He finished 6th in the World Championships in Austria. He's brought clients to the summits of Shishapangma, Denali, St. Elias, Logan, and numerous peaks in the Wrangells. He has guided Mounts Robson and Assiniboine, several 5000 to 6000-meter summits in Bolivia's Cordillera Real, as well as the major summits of the Western Alps. He started skiing at age eight. He competed on the freestyle skiing circuit, spent two seasons as a ski guide in Valdez, and skied from over 7000m on Shishapangma. Vince loves hardcore music, good olive oil, and cooking multi-course meals.

NEWS FLASH 9/8/05
Vince and Steve House climbed the new route on Nanga Parbat's Rupal face that Steve attempted with Bruce Miller last year! Six days up and two days to descend, pure alpine style. Very difficult to recover during the effort and the summit day lasted 24 hours. The pair is in base camp recovering before starting the long trip back to civilization. Bravo.


Vince on the summit of Nanga Parbat, 8125m

Spray! - By Vince
My rules of the game.

We all play games, stockbrokers, politicians, prostitutes and even climbers. The rules we choose to play with dictate the style, and the style defines our experience. Being somewhat of an anarchist at heart, I like to think that the rules I use to govern the game of climbing are "that there are no rules," but I know that this is not true. There are rules -- many different types -- and I play by them. Perhaps mine are loosely defined, then again maybe not. Sometimes I even change them to suit my particular event.

Rule #1: Honesty matters. When I get up in the morning I don't want to be ashamed of who is looking back at me from the mirror. If I play by a different set of rules than someone else I am honest about it. I don't pretend that we are all playing equally.

Rule #2: Be polite. Style is ultimately a personal choice, but I try to consider how my actions (and words) will affect the experience of others.

Rule #3: Risk is inherent. Sometimes the rules we play by can be very unforgiving. Death is permanent (I guess this depends on one's personal beliefs), so I'm careful.

Rule #4: Play the game. To spray without having played should be a crime.

Rule #5: Have fun!

A FEW EXPERIENCES VINCE CONSIDERS PERSONALLY IMPORTANT:

"Rocky Mountain Horror Show", M11+, (aka Rocky Horror Picture Show) Cineplex, Alberta, Canada.

"Dukes of Hazard", WI6, M6, (Eureka, CO), first ascent.

“Carte Blanche”, Dover (chalk cliffs), first ascent with Yann Bonneville, Manu Ibarra and Jerome Blanc-Gras.

Vince and Yann Bonneville during the first ascent of "Carte Blanche, White Cliffs of Dover, UK, 2003.

Vince getting wet on "Iron Door", White Cliffs of Dover, UK.

Vince in one of the "sport caves" in Dover.

"Harder Line" M9+ (Ouray), one of the hardest traditionally-protected mixed routes in the country, first ascent.

"Evil Has No Boundaries" M 10- (Ouray), 2000 Ice Festival Men's Competition route, which was not free-climbed during the competition, first ascent.

"Trogolodyte" M10 (Ouray, it would have been "an M11 in Vail"), second ascent.

"Breaking the Waves" 5.13a (Ouray), first ascent.

Shishapangma 8010m, guided two clients up and skied from over 7000m on first trip to the Himalaya.

Blippo V 5.8, M4 (Wrangell/St. Elias National Park), first ascent of this remote peak north of Bagley Ice Field

"Primrose Dihedrals" IV 5.11+, (Moses, Canyonlands), often referred to as "the best rock climb in North America."

"Rostrum, North Face" IV 5.11c (Yosemite).

Vince has a new ice tool.

Vince at the Twin-Sunrise Col during an attempt to traverse the ridgeline above Little Cottonwood Canyon in Utah's Wasatch range.

Marko Prezelj, Vince Anderson, Barry Blanchard, Steve House aka The GNA Four.

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