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| Cally: (05/12/05) | How to reduce Cold Bridging between timbers |
| I've been increasing the depth of my walls to accommodate more insulation by adding additional struts, effectively a second stud wall.
In most areas the studs have been placed to alternate with the originals to minimise cold bridging but at the top/bottom/sides the timbers have to match up... would I get any condensation type problems if I slid a little bit of underfloor liner between the studs to reduce the cold bridging? I have some off-cuts from a friend that used the white polyurethane (or something) liner under laminate flooring and it is amazing for insulating your feet from the cold floor even before the flooring is on top so would it work on the timbers? Windows on side walls mean I can't have a proper gap between the timbers, they must be tight together. Any advice or tips appreciated. Thanks | |
| david hyde: (06/12/05) | RE: How to reduce Cold Bridging between timbers |
| I admire your dedication to perfection but if you are going to use additional studs then some loss in performance will result. Condensation seems very unlikely.
Have you considered using insulation slabs fixing directly through the slabs and the original framing. Very long fixings 200mm are available. Alternatively fix using adhesive, possibly foam adhesive. | |
| Cally: (07/12/05) | RE: How to reduce Cold Bridging between timbers |
| Yes, I'm a bit obsessive as a result of the bodges I found when I investigated the previous owners DIY attempts, the house was like an aquarium!
Did look into insulating slabs a while back but I have no budget, at all, it's all went on the insulation and everyting else is reclaimed, re-used etc. I would like to use them in the future when I tackle the extension though, so thanks for confirming their appropriateness. | |
| Biff: (07/12/05) | RE: How to reduce Cold Bridging between timbers |
| "...possibly foam adhesive..."
David, I thought this was a 'green' building forum! | |
| Konrad Fischer: (08/12/05) | RE: How to reduce Cold Bridging between timbers |
| Your fine experience with the insulated floor shall not provoke loss of logical thinking:
We must keep apart the heat energy transport by direct molecular contact and by IR radiation. The last makes about 99% of thermal losses through walls. So you must not be aware of thermal bridges in the common sense, they do only exist for your hand and the bit of heated air coming in contact with the surface of the studs. Don't forget the mass of IR radiating surfaces of your solid surfaces of inner walls, ceiling, floor, furniture - they have 99% mass and the air has about 1% what you can forget. The heated air has only one problem: It will blow out through windows and other holes in your building. But so it will take out your humidity, what's good for you. So the lightweight thermal insulation is only able to diminuish the thermal flux by direct contact, f.e. when you give your hand on the material. A steel board and a polystyrene board both with room temperature will take more or less warmth from the contacting hand. But in the wall about 99% of thermal flux is caused by IR-radiation: Photones/Phonones will transport the energy through. And here only solid and dense materials with high 'thermal mass' can hinder the flux. We have proved this by experiment (Lichtenfelser Experiment) and by comparing of identical buildings with and without lightweight thermal insulation. Result: There is no energy saving by lightweighters at all. You can find more details on konrad-fischer-info.de/7mould.htm And Cold Bridging between timbers in common sense does not exist. Only if you stop heating and the solid materials in your facade will cool off and you start heating again, then the lightweighter will be warmed more quickly. But they cool off more quickly also. Result: Don't bother with thermal bridges. | |
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