I recently had the opportunity to visit Las Vegas, Nevada, for the first time. I live in Berkeley, CA, and had been to Reno before, but never to Vegas. I don’t gamble, I went for a martial arts conference/seminar/tournament and for some of the other kinds of entertainment offered in Vegas.
We drove down I-5 to Bakersfield, then along Highway 58 to I-15, which took us up to Vegas. My Acura Vigor, which I bought last September, performed like a champ, purring away at about 85MPH whenever I had a clear freeway lane ahead of me. Unfortunately, that wasn’t very often on I-5, because it’s only two lanes going each way, and the right lane tends to be dominated by big-rig trucks which have a speed limit of 55MPH. This means that all the car drivers who want to drive faster than the trucks but slower than 85MPH stay in the left lane. It’s even worse when a truck passes another one - then both lanes get blocked. The other thing that was notable about the trip is how the freeways and highways in California all seemed to be badly in need of resurfacing or other maintenance, and yet my girlfriend and I saw all sorts of road construction equipment sitting in construction zones either by the side of the road or in the middle of it, idle in the middle of a weekday, without a worker in sight. It reminded my girlfriend of the abandoned construction projects she saw behind the Iron Curtain back in the early 1960s when she toured Eastern Europe as part of an orchestra.
Everything changed when we reached the Nevada border: the freeway widened, it had been newly-resurfaced, the lower speed limit for trucks vanished, and right at the border was a town with casinos, a roller coaster, retail outlets (prices must be lower in Nevada, due to the fact that the state has no income tax and the employers can thus afford to pay lower wages in order for workers to have the same standard of living), gas stations, restaurants, etc. There was nothing of the kind on the California side of the border.
Things only got more impressive when we got to Vegas. The Strip is about a dozen lanes wide, and they have pedestrian walkways that cross the intersections to keep walkers from disrupting motor vehicle traffic. They can be accessed either by escalator or elevator from the street, or from inside the hotels. Some of the hotels (Excalibur, the Luxor, and Mandalay Bay) are also serviced by a monorail, and we were told that a monorail was being planned for the whole strip. Those pedestrian walkways would be great in a lot of other places, I’m sure, such as downtown Berkeley and downtown San Francisco, but I doubt we’ll see them anywhere else anytime soon. There was also plenty of parking at all of the hotels, unlike in Berkeley or San Francisco.
We stayed at Circus Circus, which is one of the older hotels on the Strip, because that was where my seminar/tournament was being held. It wasn’t very impressive to us, since it caters to families with children instead of adults like us, but it proved to be an adequate base of operations for us. Congestion pricing seems to be the rule for Vegas hotels as we paid about $50/night on Thursday and Sunday nights and about $90/night for Friday and Saturday nights (with a group discount).
When I wasn’t busy with the seminar/tournament, we toured some of the other hotels, and saw as many shows as we could. The first show we saw was Sigfried & Roy, at the Mirage, which is the one with the erupting volcano out front. Inside, they have a huge saltwater aquarium behind the front desk, a jungle area to walk through to get into the main casino floor, a habitat for the white tigers, and another area for animals that was always closed by the time we could’ve gone to see it. The show was impressive, definitely worth seeing once, although not the best one we saw while we were there. The costumes were like something out of a science fiction movie, the dancing and stage sets were very imaginative, but the real stars of the show were the white tigers and lions, which were gorgeous. Siegfried and Roy have a captive breeding program to preserve these endangered species - exemplifying how to preserve endangered species without the State.
The next show we saw was “Skintight,” a topless show featuring a blonde I’d never heard of before who was said to have been a former Playboy Playmate, along with a whole cast of male & female dancers. We enjoyed it, but it still wasn’t the best show we saw. Again, the costumes were quite imaginative, and the dance numbers were, too. One of them was evidently inspired by the musical, “Stomp.” That was at Harrah’s, one of the older hotels.
The last show we saw was the best, Cirque du Soleil’s “Mystere.” Cirque du Soleil has two shows in permanent installations in Vegas, the other being “O” at the Bellagio. We were unable to get tickets to “O”, which is a water show, so we went to Mystere instead. We weren’t disappointed at all. The theme of the show was about two babies being born into and exploring a world filled with strange and wonderful creatures, which gave them a lot of leeway with their acts. They had quite an assortment of those - a guy who spun a cube-frame around himself with his hands and feet while suspended by a wire from the ceiling, pole-climbers who’d jump from one pole to the other, doing flips and twists in mid-air, trapeze artists, acrobats who used trampolines set at different angles to jump and flip over and past each other, performers who were suspended from something like long bungee cords from the ceiling who would do spins and flips and soar through the air, etc. All in time to the wonderful live music, of course, with truly fantastic costumes. And clowns to provide some comic relief, like the one wearing a suit with an Einstein hairdo who pretended to be an usher before the show and led audience-members on wild goose-chases instead of to their seats, walking over rows of seats, going from one side of the theater to the other, then back, finally giving up in disgust and throwing their tickets up in to the air. He even pretended that two audience members were in the wrong seats and made them leave so he could seat two others in their place. Luckily, this joke was rectified so no one had to miss the show. We loved “Mystere” so much that we bought the soundtrack and can’t wait to go back and see “O” - but we’ll make sure to get tickets first, as they’re sold out way in advance.
We also toured some of the other hotels - the Bellagio, Caesar’s Palace, New York New York, Paris, the Venetian, Excalibur, the Luxor, Mandalay Bay, and Treasure Island. Unfortunately, it was too windy for either the outdoor fountain show at the Bellagio or the Pirate show at Treasure Island, but we still got to see the flower atrium at the Bellagio, which was fantastic. It smelled wonderful, which was a nice change from the usual smell of cigarette smoke from the casino floors upon entering most hotels. It seems to be a popular place for wedding parties, too. They had those fountains which shoot a solid stream of water, giant fake butterflies, some real butterflies in a gazebo enclosed by netting, lots of tulips, and all sorts of other flowers. Caesar’s has reproductions of classical and neo-classical statues out front, and employees that wear costumes in the style of ancient Rome. New York New York is in the shape of a miniature reproduction of the NYC skyline, and has a roller coaster. Paris has a miniature Eiffel Tower, the Venetian has a canal on which you can take gondola rides, Excalibur has a dinner show that’s a jousting tournament, the Luxor has reproductions of artifacts from King Tut’s tomb on exhibit - almost every casino/hotel had its own attraction, consistent with its theme. Some were difficult to connect with the theme, though. Mandalay Bay has a bar called “Red Square,” which is Russian-styled, with a giant headless statue of Lenin outside, complete with pigeon-droppings. That doesn’t fit in too well with Mandalay Bay’s Burmese theme, but we didn’t complain, we just had our picture taken in front of the Headless Lenin.
We had a wonderful time, can’t wait to go back, and recommend it highly. Next time, we’re going to see if we can get a good deal on rooms at the Luxor. We loved the buffet there.