Clockwise from left to right (outer):

• Red box of Esbit fuel tablets (normally I leave the box home and just take the fuel tablets),
• 1 pint (0.5 liter) soda bottle of water (just the right amount for freeze dried dinners),
• 1.0 ounce mug in foam cozy (so you can have hot tea or chocolate while you enjoy dinner),
• Aluminum windscreen / pot stand combo,
• 3 cup MSR titanium "kettle" (4.0 ounces, and about $50), i.e. pot & lid (tip: if you enlarge the vent hole in the lid to about 1/4" the boiling water pores without leaking down the front),
• Plastic snack bag (to stow the dirty fuel pad and stand in packed inside the mug, which is packed inside the pot),
• matches (or lighter) [Matches work better if its cold.  A lighter works better if its windy.]
• Plastic bag for clean packing of the pot,

Clockwise from left to right (inner):

• 4" square multi-layer aluminum foil for fuel pad
• Windscreen connector tab spacer for packing only (right center),
• 6" titanium tent stake,
(Tip from a reader:  You can bend the bottom 1/4" of the tent stake just slightly to cause it to sort of hook in the windscreen and not slip out as easily.  It should still work ok as a tent stake.  Suggest 15 degree bend.)
• fuel stand ("+" shaped),
• Single white Esbit fuel tablets,
• used fuel tablet (small brown speck left of fuel stand), (more about this later.)

The plastic bag is to contain the dirty pot while packing.  Esbit fuel deposits a sticky brownish substance on the outside, bottom of your pot.  Although it comes off easily with water (and a little scrubbing in sand), I often don't clean the sticky stuff off until the end of the trip when its easier to do it in the kitchen sink.  Its really not a problem so long as you keep it off your other gear. Having a plastic bag handy when it comes time to put the dirty pot in your pack keeps your other gear clean. (Note: Put this plastic bag on your packing list as a seperate item. You will tend to forget it because when you stuff the pot in your pack at home it will be clean and you might forget the bag.)

 

The windscreen / pot stand combo (on its side):

Tent stake assembly:

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Note how the hook fits through the two holes on the upper right, and the long part of the tip on the hole in the bottom of the photo.  (You might want to use a 7" tent stake.  It would be a little more secure.  I already own 6" stakes so I used one of them.)
 

            Fuel stand (important!):
 First cut a 4" x 0.25" strip of aluminum (from the turkey pan scrap) and fold it in the shape of a "+" as shown.

..

Next fold tin foil 4 layers thick and cut it to about 3" square as a base.  This insulates the fuel from the cold ground and also helps contain the fuel when it sometimes turns to a fluid.  After you light the corner of the fuel tablet, set it on fuel stand flat.  This little stand allows much more air in and around the fuel tablet and therefore it burns much hotter and heats the water more quickly.  The effect of this is to substantially cut thermal loses and therefore require less fuel per pint (half litter) of water.
 
 

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Using it to boil water

Stove & pot ready for the burn

(Tip: To get the most out of each fuel pellet, have the pot full of water, with the lid on, before lighting the pellet. If you have to fuss with the pot or water after the tab is already lit it subtracts from available heating time. Thus you might not get a full boil from a single fuel tab and you might have to restart the stove if boiling for purifying is required. If only heating the water is needed then you'll be ok either way.)

Move the windscreen aside.

Pick up the fuel tablet and light the corner with a lighter (prefered) or a match (harder in a wind).  Quickly, being careful not to burn your fingers, set the burning fuel tab back on the cross shaped (+) stand. 

Now quickly put the windscreen around the burning fuel tab and put the pot on the windscreen/tent stand assembly, carefully centering the pot inside the windscreen.  Note: centering it is important, because if the pot is offset, i.e. 1/4" on one side and 3/4" on the opposite side, the flame won't transfer heat as efficently.

Tip: Do the above steps quickly because the tiny flame is fragile, especially at first.  A small gust can easily blow the new flame out, forcing you to restart which wastes fuel.  A little practice and you'll get the hang of it.  Do your cooking in places somewhat sheltered from the wind.  The edge of a lake for instance, is often very gusty, but back in the trees or bushes is more calm.  In a pinch, try using a larger windblock around the whole assembly. Rocks, wood, or even your ridgerest pad may work, but obviously, keep the pad several inches away from the stove because I presume it melts and burns. Don't use your tent or other nylon gear. It easily, and quickly burns.

Caution: Be careful not to knock the tent stake out of the windscreen when setting the pot in and out.  If you have to adjust the pot, first raise it slightly so as to not slide the tent stake as you move the pot, which might cause the stake to come loose.  In other words, don't slide the pot to adjust and center it. 

Warning!! If you accidentally knock the tent stake loose, first let it cool before touching it, (or use a tool to touch it).  In a very short time the tent stake will become extremely hot and will easily burn you fingers.  The bottom of the pot will be hot too, but not nearly as hot as the tent stake.  You have been warned.)
 
 

Spacer used to keep coupling tabs from getting squished while packing (see "Packing the windscreen in your sleeping pad" below):

Use it only during packing.  Remove for normal stove setup.  Note it is rounded a bit too, both on the corners and in the surface.  This spacer is a little extra weight, but well worth it.  (You can punch holes in the spacer to lighten it even more if you wish.)
 
 

Rolling the windscreen in your sleeping pad for transport:

We just use one strap to attach our pad to the back of our pack.  Position the strap near the top of the pad.  Make sure the windscreen is at the upper end of the pad so it can't fall out.  We've had a pad work its way loose on a rocky trail, but have never yet had the windscreen fall out, so this setup works pretty well.  For rain its no problem if all of this stuff gets wet.

Windscreen/pot stand construction plans:

 

Construction tips (see windscreen plans above): The windscreen / pot support is made out of a single 12 x 22 x 4 inch deep aluminum baking pan, (like you would use for roasting a turkey.)  [0.010" thick aluminum.  Most people would call this disposable.  Corners formed by crinkling, i.e. not smooth.  The one I last bought says ""Alcan" 460 on it.  I'll try to get a photo soon.]  You'll need both the bottom and a bit of one side of a backing pan.  Mark the aluminum with a straight edge and pen.  BE CAREFUL TO ALLOW FOR THE TAB WHICH YOU NEED TO FOLD OVER, i.e. don't cut it off. Then use sharp scissors  to cut out the corners, clip off the edges, and then flatten out the rest.  I used my wife's rolling pen to roll the aluminum flat.  (It works pretty well, even if it raises her eyebrows.)  [At one point I tried using aluminum from a dryer vent, but it seemed to have a plastic coating on it which would burn and turn brown, and then it would stick (weld) to itself.  I tried burning it off with a torch, but just ended up melting the aluminum.  Baking pans don't have any coating.  They are lighter and plenty strong.] Punch the vent holes with a hand paper punch.  The three holes in the center part of the lower wind screen are for the tent stake.  They are adjusted so the stake can't easily fall out.  (See drawings at end for assembly instructions.)  The tent stake provides more than enough of a seat for a strong stable pot support. (The other side of the pot rests on the built in pot handles.)  Because your hand punch can't reach far enough in to punch these holes you'll need to use one of two methods to punch these holes, (that is unless you have a professional sheet metal hand punch which makes this easy.)   A) Best way. Requires electric drill, 1/4" bit, 2 blocks of wood and 2 clamps:  Clamp the aluminum between flat boards and drill through the assembly,  Unclamp the boards and gently smooth the edges of the hole with the hammer head.  This should produce a quality hole with no burs. or  B) Hammer punch the hole with a flat head screw (an adiquite method if you don't have a drill).  Requires hammer, block of wood and small flat head screw. Use a small flat head screw, a soft block of wood and a hammer as a punch.  Stand the screw on its head and punch into block of wood. (Tip:Practice on a scrap piece of aluminum first.  Hit the screw hard.  Reverse sides, then carefully re-align the flat head screw and hit again.  Repeat until a neat hole is punched.  Smooth the finished hole as described above. Many thanks to all of the other stove makers on the internet.  They have been tall shoulders to stand on.  It was a real delight to not have to pack anything more than this super lightweight stove.  And the food tasted just as good as ever.  :-)

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Links:

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Comparisons and extensive information about stoves, fuel, usage, and vendors, especially Esbit.

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BONUS!  1.0 ounce ultralight insulated mug which nicely fits in your pot for packing:

Cut off bottom of a 32 oz Fosters beer can.  Wrap it in foam trimmed from a ridge rest pad.  Use scissors to trim it just tall enough to fit in the MSR 0.85L kettle.  When full, it safely holds 1.5 cups of boiling water.  I used a hot glue gun to bond the foam together and to glue a bottom in.  You could also use duct tape, but I've found the hot glue to be long lasting and very trouble free.  Note: I had to thin down the foam just a bit with a razor blade to get it to fit in the pot.  Yes it looks a bit "flimsy", but it works surprisingly well.  I've used it for over 100 miles now and my wife has used it for another 60.  I know of no other options for a one ounce insulated mug, except perhaps, not taking a mug at all.