Welcome to the Dye Forum

This forum is for all sorts of hand-dyers to post links to pictures of their work and discuss dyeing with other dyers. Please jump right in and post. We'd like to see your work!

Click on list of topics at the upper left to see a list of all forum topics. Choose the most closely related section to post your new topic, or reply to an existing post using 'add new comment' or 'reply', under the post.

Look under 'Recent comments' and 'New forum topics' in the right-hand margin to keep up with new posts. [Click 'read more' to see the rest of this post.]

chemistry question

I'm thinking whether urea would increase solubility of other than reactive dyes. Maybe I read it somewhere, that one of urea's purpose in textile industry is moderating solubility of dyes. Is that true?

procion MX and wool

I would like to dye a jewish prayer shawl that happens to be wool. Will Procion MX dye work or do I need special dye for wool?



dye beading off surface

Does anybody out there understand why the dye sometimes just rolls off the surface of a presoaked piece? I used to dye things damp, but have recently been experimenting with dryer pieces. I think mandala designs in particular come out better when they're dryer. You get richer color, less white and just more control over where the dye ends up. That is, IF you've manage to achieve exactly the right moisture content (or lack thereof!) I can't tell you how many times I've intricately folded a piece, tried to dye it and, failing, had to untie it and throw it back in to soak because the dye just won't absorb into the shirt! I'm so frustrated!!!

Group Tie-Dye--simplest way?


I hope this is ok to post--I've seen a lot of similar topics on this site, but am still a bit confused.

This weekend we're planning to tie dye ~300 shirts for a spring fair fundraiser.

I know every dye is different and formulas can be problematic--but we're going to have volunteers coming in and out all weekend and need to keep things simple.

We're using 32 ounce squeeze bottles of dye, and we bought the Dharma fiber reactive dyes.

Per 32 ounce bottle--

2 to 5 tablespoons of dye (depending on whether it's the single or double strength)
2 tbsp of soda ash

1) Do these numbers sound reasonable? (For dye--I'm going off the numbers a dharma person gave me--but do you think we could cut it down a little to make sure we don't run out?)

Dyeing to cover a discoloration

Hi Everyone, this is my first post here. Anyway, I recently bought a brown corduroy 100% cotton jacket at a vintage clothing store. I didn't notice the discoloration in the dim store light til I paid (no refunds...doh!) and went out into the sunlight where it was pretty clear. It's kind of a gradual fade from a dirty brown to a warm tan over the entire surface. I don't know if it's a stain or sun-bleaching or what. I figure I can dye it, but is my only option to dye it black to cover the discoloration? Will I need to bleach it first? Please help educate a noob!



Looking for tie dyer for t-shirts and wraps

Looking for tie dyer for t-shirts and wraps


My name is Karen Cherniack and I am looking for help! I live in sourhern California and I need to find someone who does tie dye projects and possibly even some stamping and airbrush work. I am working on some t-shirts and wraps with rhinestone transfers and foils or stamping that I would like to do tie dye or air brush with.

Do any of you do this type of work? If you are in southern California great! Even if you are not I would still like to get in contact with you to see how we could explore working together.

Thanks so so much for your help!

emergency help!!!

I just did a huge batch of onesies, sheets and diaper cloths. since there were so many I actually put in a load of blue colored ones (darker colors) into the washing machine. I just took a look at it and it bled ALL over EVERYTHING! everything is blue and stained! what did I do wrong?! what can I do??? I am puting it in for another run again on the hottest setting. I still have a load of my red's next - but im afraid! also, after I dyed the stuff I let it sit for more than 2 days so it cant be that I didnt let it react - and its hot!!!



Dyeing Easter eggs with Rit Dye?!

Sometimes a question comes through that just boggles my mind. Look at today's dyeblog entry, "A friend of mine told me that she uses RIT dye to dye her eggs". A little web searching turned up utterly preposterous claims that it's perfectly safe to use Rit clothing dye to dye eggs that will later be eaten, e.g., under here, here, here, and here.

Here we are concerned about whether someone reuses a dyepot for cooking, even after washing it thoroughly, and this woman's friend is giving her children Rit-dyed eggs to eat! This can't possibly be safe, because some of the shell dye always gets on the eggs when you go to peel them.


acid reserve?

Has anyone tried acid reserve for printing with MX? I don't know exactly, but I think they use either CH3COONa or Burrow's solution.

Acid Dye Questions

I have some very interesting fabric I am attempting to dye. It is 30% silk/70% cotton. It's actually a cotton fabric with silk threads woven in. I'm attempting to get a nice contrast betweeen the silk thread and cotton background. I've been using jacquard acid dyes with vinegar as the fixer and not getting the best results. I used hot tap water and let the swatches soak in the vinegar dye solution for about 30 minutes before rinsing them. ALOT of the dye rinsed out, so I think I must have had more than enough dye in there. I was only able to get a light pink in the silk threads using crimson, and a light lavendar using lilac. I suspect the silk threads are actually a cotton blend, but I was wondering if it would help to use either hotter water or let them soak longer. I will not be able to simmer my fabric yardage as I don't have a pot big enough to do it...I was just planning to use very hot tap water and a big rubbermaid tub, stirring frequently. Also, I am wondering how to minimize staining of the cotton fabric? In the swatches, I wasn't able to get the dye to rinse completely from the cotton threads, even with hot water and detergent. And do I need salt with acid dyes? The instructions didn't say. Also, is there any difference if I use citric acid instead of vinegar? What about adding urea to the mix? I've read some conflicting information about using urea.

Anyone used the Jones Tones foil and glue?

There's a summer fair that I've sold at a couple of times, and my silk stuff doesn't sell too well there. I thought that I might do some fun cotton items instead, but not straight tie dyes.

I was thinking of embellishing some procionMX-dyed shirts with heatset rhinestones or with the Jones Tones foil products. Has anyone used the foil with the glue successfully? How does it wear? I wouldn't like to sell shirts with decorations that peeled right off...

Your advice, as always, is appreciated.

Best way to whiten fabric?

I'm trying to dye a hemp/cotton blend a very light pastel baby pink color with fiber reactive dyes. However, the fabric is natural color and has a distinct yellow cast to it. When I try to dye it, the color comes out very orangish/salmony. I can get the color I am looking for on swatches of 100% cotton bleached muslin, so I am thinking the natural color must be interfering with the color. What is the best way to counteract this? Is there another color I can add to the dye to help? Or should I attempt to bleach the fabric and use a whitening agent like Dharma's optic whitener? Or can I use the whitener without bleaching the fabric? I need this very specific fabric weave, so ordering whiter fabric is not an option.

first dye bath did not take, second dye bath took

I dyed using PRO Midnight Blue and PRO Strongest Red and did gradations using fat quarters. All went well. Thinking that the leftover liquid might still have enough dye in it, I later put in new fabric; let it sit without soda ash for 24 hours; since it seemed to yield pale colours, I then added some other leftover dye solution, added the soda ash some minutes later, let it be for 24 hours, rinsed and looked at some intense, deep, dark colours. I thought all went well. As I now took it out of the washer, turns out that the colour from the first application is completely absent!

Is this due to the fact that I did not add the requisite soda ash until much later, near the time I added the 2nd colour?

Has anyone tried thiox based discharge paste?

I've done some tests with it - I've used recipe with thiox and soda and alginate thickener. I got different results of discharge intensity 1) on the edges 2) in the uniform area.
Does anyone has hints what to avoid or what to do/check with special care during the process?
Could it be heated without any water vapour? Or the process needs some dampness?

colour mixing

I've been approached by a business to supply quite a lot of dyed scarves in a fairly short time, and before I commit myself, I have to do some trials. The colours they want are lavenders, dusty pinks and reds for one theme, and variations of indigo, delft, cerulean and china blue for the other. I have on hand Dharma Tradings Royal Blue and Turquoise, Jungle Red and Magenta, Warm Yellow and Lemon Yellow and several blacks (all MX) My first question is, what kind of blues are cerulean and delft? My second question is, with the dyes I have, is it possible to mix them to get the colours they want? I have the weekend to experiment, but any helpful hints to speed me along the way will be very, very much appreciated!

[I moved this here so it would be more easily found, I hope you don't mind, Maureen! -Paula]

why does the color split?

After a week of practicing lwi, I am back with a question. I prepared a solution using yellow and a touch of black; I chose a black that goes to green. Used in the light-medium strength, I obtained the green I wanted; when used a tad darker, though, I got colors that split and basically look like army fatigues with some reddish splotches/areas. Why does the black show itself separately rather than just give me a darker shade of the green? I know there are endless variables at play but, in general, can you figure out why this happens [to me]? Thank you so much.

Browns on Silk?

I did two test samples tonight, because I was thinking brown might be hard to get. One sample is still soaking, it's in soda ash.

The vinegar sample I nuked.... and thank you all for reminding me to cover the container! I didn't watch it, set it for 90 seconds on 50% power, walked away... turned around, stopped it and put a cover on it. Restarted and then walked away. When I came back it had overflowed. I had a really nice brown paper towel, lol.

The silk came out a really nice dark shade of brown. The dye is "Chocolate Brown" from Dharma. And this is the first thing that has come out a really good brown with it. I've used this on rayon and it wasn't this lovely. It's not perfectly even, but I was doing a rush job... better mixing and I'm sure it will be fine.

Getting wrinkles out of silk-need advice!

Hi everyone. I'm very new to dying fabric, but I'm having a great time learning and experimenting. I have been dying China silk in various weights, using Jacquard acid dyes and the stove top method. I use pro textile detergent and Milsoft fabric softener, and try to launder my veils on the minimum agitation wash/less wrinkle dry settings.

The problem I'm having is that my solid color silks take a really long time to press or steam the wrinkles out, especially along the edges. I use a professional steam iron and have a pro upright steamer, but it seems that I am spending a LOT of time prepping my silks for the marketplace. I have tried just ironing, just steaming, and also ironing and then steaming. Needless to say, it's been a lot of work. My silks do come out nice and soft after dying but the wrinkles seem too prevalent and stubborn.


Powered by Webmasters.com