|
Site
Search
|
|
This eight-point checklist may look a bit intimidating, but I reckon that it's actually only an afternoon's graft. Great for working those Sunday lunch calories off! It's aimed primarily at those putting their motorcycle in winter storage, but nearly all of it is just as applicable to those running their bikes throughout the winter. I'd go as far as to say that the entire checklist is mandatory, so if you do find it a bit much, talk to your local dealer. They should be able to do the applicable points for around two hours' labour (i.e. an experienced technician) and about £15 in materials. For us that's a total of about £80 plus VAT. A small price to pay to maintain your bike's value, looks, mechanical condition and to give you safe, trouble free riding come the Spring. 1/ Fuel System. Modern unleaded fuel has a shelf life of only a few weeks. It will degrade into a green, sludgy lacquer that will cover everything, if left for long enough. Run the fuel level down low, add some stabilising fuel additive in the tank and run the bike for a few miles to get it through the fuel system. There's no perfect cure (despite what the manufactures may say), but this helps a lot. Come the Spring, first stop is the petrol station to fill up with fresh fuel. 2/. Clean it. Thoroughly. Not just cosmetically as you would normally, but use a quality degreaser to remove all the ingrained grime that you haven't bothered cleaning off during the years riding. Use one recommended for O-ring chains. Slightly controversially, I'd suggest that would probably include the use of a pressure washer. Concentrate on localised, really grimy bits, though with fuel injected bikes you need to be very, very careful to avoid the ECU unit, instruments and electrics. I don't necessarily buy into the paranoia surrounding use of power washers, especially if you're only using it once a year for winter preparation. For example, wheel bearings are cheap and if they wear a bit prematurely, they're much cheaper to replace than getting your corroded wheels refinished. The brakes and suspension need special attention. Unbolt the brake callipers and use a special brake cleaner and a stiff brush to clean out the callipers and use a special brake rubber grease to re-lubricate. If your bike is dealer serviced, this should be done a matter of routine, but your service may have been some time ago and it's obviously important not to let corrosion set in over the winter lay-up. Inspect and re-grease the suspension linkages. 3/ Dry it. Thoroughly. Use compressed air if it's available. 4/ Re-lubricate it. Invest time in covering
your brake calipers and discs properly to protect them from the
re-lubrication and polishing processes. All joints and pivots, such
as side stand pivots, suspension linkages and brake lever pivots.
Regular chain lube is good enough for most moving surfaces. Chain
wax can be a bit messy, and you may end up having to clean your
bike again. 5/ Polish it. Thoroughly. Don't use abrasive polishes. Use the aerosol wax polishes made by most oil companies. Again avoid brakes. 6/. Tyres. Get them off the ground. If your bike doesn't include a centre stand, buy a pair a paddock stands. They're not that expensive, and are cheaper than a new set of tyres. Once bought, they'll last a lifetime of winter storages. Fill the tyres with nitrogen. This will drastically reduce the oxidisation of the rubber and they should maintain their right pressure and condition right through the winter. More on nitrogen 7/ Batteries. The only time I've seen faulty FI computers on Aprilias, has been when bikes have been stood up over winter, the battery has run down and the owner has tried to restart their bike using a car battery. At £1,000 a time, it isn't worth the risk. Modern fuel injection computers need a certain battery voltage to work, and no amount of bump starting will fix that if your battery has been allowed to die over the winter. Get a battery tender. Come the Spring, the bike will start and no components will get damaged. Get one! It'll save you money and grief. Do it! 8/ Bike cover. Use a modern breathable type, that won't encourage condensation. Don't use a tarpaulin. Your dealer should be able to supply you with a winter kit with the necessary cleaner, degreaser, greases and polish, but these are our recommended products: - Würth fuel additive Would you like to receive regular news items or TechTalks like this? And be entered into our regular prize draws? Then, Join our Newsletter. Is there anything you'd like to add to this TechTalk? Then go to the MaxMoto Message Board for this Winter Prep TechTalk (8 comments). Page last updated: 31/07/07 |
 |
News
|
