Reviews
Inside Reviews
Raising the steaks: Maze Grill, Grosvenor Square, London
Saturday, 26 July 2008
City lunchers have had to re-think their priorities lately. Gone is a three-course blow-out at the Mercer, with the throw-caution-to-the-wind bottle of Chateauneuf. A new realism is abroad. It's saying, You, my lad, will be lunching at Strada or Wagamama or Yo! Sushi for the immediate future. So why is everyone going to the Maze Grill?
We are most amused: Princess Victoria
Sunday, 20 July 2008
Princess Victoria, 217 Uxbridge Road, London W12, tel: 020 8749 5886
Tooley scrumptious: Magdalen, Tooley Street, London
Saturday, 19 July 2008
The enthusiasm of my vary-sized fellow judges for Magdalen, nominated in the Best British category, was the spur I needed to make an overdue visit to this not-particularly-new, but apparently very good, restaurant in Bermondsey
Prince of Denmark Street: The Giaconda Dining Room
Sunday, 13 July 2008
Why Australian chef Paul Merrony is making a big noise on the street known as London's Tin Pan Alley
Second helpings: More wizards of Oz
Sunday, 13 July 2008
Soul Food: L'Anima
Saturday, 12 July 2008
L'Anima is the Italian word for "the soul" or "the spirit", and it's unusual to find ethereal connotations attached to modern Italian cuisine. Restaurateurs like to emphasise the earthiness, the spicy peasantness, the down-home, hairy-armpitted, beans-and-pasta-soup-iness of vero Italian cooking. You may think it laughable that the River Café calls its fabulous dishes cucina rustica, when no actual rustic Italian could afford a tenth of their Hammersmith prices – but the image was seriously meant.
Brasseries not included: Brasserie St Jacques
Sunday, 6 July 2008
St Jacques brings an authentic French buzz to the heart of London. But you don't want to read about that, do you?
Food Of The Week: Cultural fine dining is quite an art
Sunday, 6 July 2008
There's no need to go hungry when sating your cultural appetite. Check out these top-notch restaurants in galleries, theatres, concert halls and museums around the world.
Lost in Soho: Quo Vadis
Saturday, 5 July 2008
If ever a restaurant embodied the Zeitgeist of the Nineties (and isn't Zeitgeist the Ninetiest of words?) it was Quo Vadis. How deliciously ironic that an old Soho haunt, once the home of Karl Marx, should be taken over by the PR maestro and corporate flack Matthew Freud. And what larks when Freud and his partners, the artist Damien Hirst and Marco Pierre White, eventually had a spectacular falling-out, leaving White sulking in sole charge with only his self-painted Hirst knock-offs for company. Truly, each generation gets the bohemians and boulevardiers it deserves.
This Is Summer: Eating out
Monday, 30 June 2008
Nobody wants to be inside on a lovely day – so make a note of these delightful eateries around Britain that have outside spaces, from garden benches to elegant terraces
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