From vegetarian to double beef, one simple method produces countless chilisWednesday, October 15, 2008 Years ago, my friend Karin invited a small group of women over for a dinner party. She's one of those untrained cooks who churn out fabulously elaborate meals with little effort, so I eagerly anticipated a gourmet feast. As the evening approached, thoughts turned to rich coq au vin, osso buco, rack of lamb - restaurant-quality dishes she's made her signature. As we pushed through the front door, we were hit by the aroma of cumin hanging languidly in the air. The table was already set with small bowls overflowing with garnishes surrounded a big, steaming pot of ... chili? I was stunned - aside from being decidedly un-Karin, chili had always felt like "man food" to me, something quick and easy that could feed a pack of hungry athletes. But as I tucked into her white chicken chili, it was impossible to contain my delight - each bite produced new levels of flavor, from smoky chile peppers and creamy beans to earthy oregano. Years later, this chili and others like it have become staples in my repertoire, especially when I'm having company. Done right, chili can be a nuanced dish that will both feed and impress a crowd. And by following one basic method, chili can be a cook's blank canvas, resulting in dozens of variations. It's strange to think of chili as seasonal because it contains only traces of fresh produce, most of which is available year-round. But as the weather turns from late summer to the colder winter months, chili is one of the first dishes that come to mind. Spash of this, dash of thatNext to soup, it's one of the most comforting and forgiving foods. You can always adjust the seasoning, add an ingredient or two, or throw on a few good garnishes to save an imperfect batch. Karin's chicken chili was nearly flawless the night she made it for us, but when I attempted it at home, it was missing something. I poked through the pantry searching for inspiration, and finally decided to add a splash of cider vinegar. It may not have been traditional, but the acidic edge rounded out the dish. Fresh orange juice does the same thing in the accompanying recipe for double beef chili, perking up the combination of ground beef and diced sirloin. It's little more than a basic beef chili, but using dried beans instead of canned adds depth to the dish. It wasn't until I had cooked my way through several varieties of chili that I recognized the simplicity of the method - one that begins with aromatics like onions and garlic, moves on to peppers, and ends with meat or vegetables and beans. The only big variables are the seasonings - usually some combination of cumin, oregano, chili powder and paprika or cayenne pepper - and specific main ingredients, but those can result in entirely different dishes. Take the wild boar version (see recipe), for example. By following the same method for the double beef chili, but using ground wild boar and diced shoulder meat instead of sirloin, and substituting tomatillos for the tomatoes, the dish is reinvented. Seasonal autumn and winter vegetables can enhance a vegetarian chili beyond the traditional three-bean and tomato varieties, too. Use mushrooms, sweet potatoes and black beans scented with cinnamon, for example, to create a vegetarian harvest main course. Remember the cornbreadServed with salad and a wedge of cornbread, it's a complete meal, and only gets better as it sits. (Try the recipe for a savory cornbread with cheddar and scallions, or check out today's Taster's Choice on Page F2 for suggestions for packaged mixes.) Both the vegetarian and the meat varieties freeze exceptionally well, so it pays to make a little extra and have a few good meals on hand for later. My friends and family consider me a well-trained chef, and often request my cooking. These days, I find no shame in preparing a big pot of chili. Like Karin, I know a good thing when I've got it. A good batch of chili is a crowd favorite that can impress even the most jaded palates, and makes bracing for the cold, rainy months just a little more bearable.
Inside: Recipes for chili and Cheddar & Scallion Cornbread, Page F6 Double Beef ChiliServes 6-8 Adjust the heat on this basic beef chili by adding more jalapenos or cayenne. I used Rancho Gordo black beans, which are wonderfully creamy and delicious. If you want to use canned beans instead, that's fine, and it will cut down significantly on the cooking time. Use about three 14.5-ounce cans, saving one can's worth of the bean liquid, and draining and rinsing the other two. When you add the beans and bean liquid, also add about 2 cups of chicken broth.
For the beans: Pour the beans plus their soaking liquid into a stockpot, and add additional water to cover by 1-2 inches. Add the smashed garlic and bay leaves, and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for about 1 hour, until the beans have softened but aren't fully cooked through (they'll continue to cook in the chili). For the chile: Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or stockpot over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and saute for about 5 minutes, until onions have softened slightly. Add red and jalapeno peppers, and continue to cook for another 3-5 minutes. Transfer mixture to a bowl and set aside. Season meat with salt and pepper to taste. In the pot, add the ground beef and top sirloin and saute until browned on all sides, breaking up ground beef as you go, about 4 minutes. Add onion and pepper mixture back into the pot and stir to combine. Add the 3/4 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper and the cayenne pepper through the cinnamon, and stir until the spices are evenly distributed. Pour in the tomatoes and juice, fresh orange juice and cooked black beans plus 3 cups of bean cooking liquid (add chicken broth or water if you don't have enough). Stir well, and simmer over medium-low heat for about 1 1/2-2 hours, until meat is tender, liquid has thickened, and beans are fully cooked through. If you are using canned black beans, cooking time will be less. Add kidney beans, with the bean liquid, in the last 30 minutes of cooking. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with chopped red onions, sour cream and shredded cheese. Per serving: 327 calories, 26 g protein, 34 g carbohydrate, 10 g fat (3 g saturated), 47 mg cholesterol, 501 mg sodium, 12 g fiber. Sweet Potato, Mushroom & Black Bean ChiliServes 8 I used Rancho Gordo black beans for the recipe, which really enhance the chili. If you want to use canned beans instead, however, that's fine, and it will cut down significantly on the cooking time. Use about three 14.5-ounce cans, saving one can's worth of the bean liquid, and draining and rinsing the other two. When you add the beans and bean liquid, also add about 2 cups of vegetable broth.
For the beans: Pour the beans plus their soaking liquid into a stockpot, and add additional water to cover by 1-2 inches. Add the smashed garlic and bay leaves, and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for about 1 hour, until the beans have softened but aren't fully cooked through (they'll continue to cook in the chili). Remove the garlic and bay leaves and discard. For the chili: Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or stockpot over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and saute for about 5 minutes, until onions have softened slightly. Add jalapeno and red peppers, and continue to cook for another 3-5 minutes. Add mushrooms, and saute until mushrooms have softened and released some of their juices, another 5 minutes. Add the chili powder through the black pepper, and stir until the seasonings are incorporated into the mixture. Add the tomatoes and liquid, sweet potatoes and cooked black beans plus 3 cups of bean cooking liquid (add vegetable broth or water if you don't have enough). Stir well to combine and simmer over medium-low heat for about 1-1 1/2 hours, until sweet potatoes have softened but still retain their shape, liquid has thickened, and beans are fully cooked through. If you are using canned black beans, cooking time will be a bit shorter. Add pinto beans plus their cooking liquid in the last 30 minutes of cooking. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with chopped red and green onions, sour cream, and shredded cheese, for garnish. Per serving: 262 calories, 14 g protein, 43 g carbohydrate, 5 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 537 mg sodium, 13 g fiber. Wild Boar & Tomatillo ChiliServes 6-8 Wild boar is a little richer and gamier than pork, but that would be a fine substitute if you can't find the wild boar at your local butcher. We ordered ours a day in advance from Golden Gate Meats in the Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco, and asked the staff to grind some of the meat for the chili as well.
Instructions: Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or stockpot over medium-high heat. Season the wild boar meat (shoulder and ground), with a generous amount of salt and pepper. Brown in two batches for about 3-4 minutes, remove and set aside. Add remaining tablespoon olive oil to the pot, turn heat to medium, and add onions and garlic. Saute for about 5 minutes, until onions have softened slightly. Add Anaheim and jalapeno peppers, and continue to cook for another 3-5 minutes. Put meat back into the pot, and add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, the chile powder, cumin, oregano and smoked paprika, stirring until the spices are evenly distributed. Pour in the beer to deglaze the pot, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom. Add tomatillos, crushed tomatoes and chicken broth, and bring to a simmer. Cook for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the pinto beans and continue to cook for another 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the lime juice, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with chopped red onions, sour cream and chopped cilantro. Per serving: 423 calories, 27 g protein, 27 g carbohydrate, 22 g fat (7 g saturated), 71 mg cholesterol, 705 mg sodium, 8 g fiber. Cheddar & Scallion CornbreadServes 8 This is best served warm with a little soft butter, and goes well with any of today's chili recipes.
Instructions: Preheat the oven to 375°. Butter an 8x8-inch square baking dish, and set aside. Place the dry ingredients in a large bowl, and whisk to combine. Stir in the buttermilk and eggs until moistened, then add the melted butter, stirring just until combined. Fold in the cheddar cheese and scallions, and pour into baking dish, smoothing top. Bake for about 35 minutes or until lightly golden and the top springs back when pressed. Per serving: 412 calories, 12 g protein, 48 g carbohydrate, 20 g fat (11 g saturated), 127 mg cholesterol, 739 mg sodium, 3 g fiber. Chicken & Poblano Pepper ChiliServes 4-6 I got the inspiration for this recipe from my friend, Karin Appelbaum, who first found it several years ago in Bon Appetit. She changed it to incorporate pureed beans for added thickness and less cream, and uses fresh chiles. I've made a few more changes. Here is the result, but the beauty of chili is that you, too, can adapt it to suit your tastes.
Instructions: Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or stockpot over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, and all of the spices. Saute until onion has softened and spices are incorporated, about 5 minutes. Remove onion mixture to a bowl and set aside. Season chicken with salt and pepper and add to the empty pot. Saute until mostly cooked through and white on all sides, about 5-7 minutes. Add the onion mixture back in and stir to combine. In a blender, puree the 1 cup of beans that you have set aside with 1/2 cup of the chicken broth. Add the remaining broth, pureed beans, whole beans, chiles and cream to the pot. Cook for about 20 minutes, until chicken is tender. Season to taste. Serve with chopped green onions, cilantro (if using), cheese and sour cream to pass at the table. Per serving: 378 calories, 27 g protein, 39 g carbohydrate, 12 g fat (4 g saturated), 67 mg cholesterol, 699 mg sodium, 10 g fiber. Amanda Gold is a Chronicle staff writer. E-mail her at agold@sfchronicle.com. This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle Comments
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