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Bittersweet
Bittersweet ofBittersweet basics When planted against a fence or trellis, bittersweet (Celastrus spp.), a fast-growing, twining, perennial vine, will turn a deck, porch or patio into a shady, private nook in no time. Mostly hardy to Zone 3, its showy, long-lasting, orange-red berries, often used in dried arrangements and wreaths, are an added bonus, and are especially appreciated by birds in winter.Although this vine has a tendency to be rambunctious, it can be kept in check. After installing a bench at the far end of my yard, I realized that the long, bare, brick wall of the house it faced needed something to break up its wide expanse. The American bittersweet (C. scandens) I planted against a trellis now provides a handsome focal point. American bittersweet, a native plant, and oriental bittersweet (C. orbicu-latus) are the most commonly grown ornamental species. Another lesser known, more tender type (Zone 4) is the Chinese or Loesener bittersweet (C. rosthornianus), but it’s not available in Canada.The average height of American bittersweet is seven metres, and it climbs by means of twining stems that grow vertically or sprawl horizontally over fences, arbours and other structures. It thrives in almost any types of soil except boggy ones. The plant has narrow, egg-shaped, green leaves with yellow fall colour and produces small, greenish flowers in late spring, followed by fruit capsules that open in early autumn to expose showy, fiery-coloured berries. The fruit are clustered at the tips of its stems. Oriental bittersweet is similar to American but grows even more vigorously—from nine to 12 metres tall—and should be sited with care, as it can become very invasive. Imported in the 1860s from Korea, China and Japan, oriental bittersweet reproduces prolifically by seed; it also spreads by above-ground stolons and underground rhizomes, and through root suckering. Its leaves are rounded and the fruit looks similar to the American type, but the berries are brighter in colour and borne in smaller lateral clusters along its stems. The leaves turn yellow in fall. Growing tips Bittersweet produces male and female flowers on separate plants, so both types must be grown to ensure fruit set. Male plants (such as C. orbiculatus ‘Hercules’) are the most vigorous and generally need to be pruned harder than female plants (including C. o. ‘Diana’) to prevent crowding out the berry-producing females. One male plant is sufficient for up to five females.Bittersweet is not easily transplanted because of its spreading root system. It’s best propagated by sowing seeds in containers in an open frame as soon as they’re ripe, or in the spring. Small, young plants will grow rapidly once established and can become a nuisance if not hard pruned occasionally (ideally when dormant from late winter to early spring) to keep them under control.Bittersweet is known by many names, including climbing orange root, fever twig, red root, Roxbury waxwork and staff vine. Its Ojibwa name, Manidobima’kwit, means “spirit twisted,” in reference to the twisted intestines of legendary hero Winabojo, also known as Nanabush, who was a “spirit boy,”- or trickster, and taught the Ojibwa how to live in the natural world.Growing tipsAlthough Celastrus spp. will produce more fruit in full sun, it also thrives in semi-shade.All types of bittersweet adapt to most soil types but may become overly aggressive in very rich soil.Grow it on trellises and walls but away from trees and shrubs, as its twining habit can constrict and potentially kill them.While the vine has few pests, it may occasionally be bothered by powdery mildew or leaf fungus, which can generally be controlled by simply removing the diseased leaves or applying a fungicide in severe cases- Credit
- Lorraine Hunter
Bittersweet
Properly sited, this exuberant vine brings privacy, shade and welcome fall colour to the garden more
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Vines and creepers for fall interest
Vines and creepers for fall interest ofVines and creepers Fall is an exceptional time of the year in the garden; as cooler weather intensifies, so do the foliage colours of many vines and groundcovers. With shorter days and lower nighttime temperatures, the green chlorophyll that masked the original pigments in the leaves of deciduous plants throughout the season is no longer produced, allowing their true colours to blaze. The fluctuation between warm, sunny days and cool nights accentuates carotenoid, which produces the scarlets, yellows and oranges in plants such as ‘Gro-Low’ fragrant sumac, while the pigment anthocyanin shines through to create the blues, purples and magentas of Virginia creeper and the ground-hugging rockspray cotoneaster. Groundcovers, which so generously spread to cover bare spots in the garden, have a quiet attractiveness throughout spring and summer. Come fall, however, specimens such as dwarf blue plumbago burst into glamorous masses of magenta buds and gentian blue blooms. Not to be outdone by the showy groundcovers at their feet, many vines play a dramatic role in the autumn landscape, too. There’s no missing the brilliant maroon foliage of Virginia creeper and its Asian relative, Boston ivy. Care checklist Soil and Exposure Full sun (for better foliage colour and flowering) to part shade. Moist but not soggy soil, preferably well-drained, loamy and organic; amend heavy clay with compost, leaf mould or sand. Maintenance Plant in spring or autumn and mulch with shredded bark or small wood chips to prevent weeds. Moderate- to fast-growing vines and groundcovers may need to be contained by edging or raised beds; site them carefully so they don’t overpower diminutive neighbours. Apply two centimetres of sifted compost or slow-release, granular, 10-10-10 fertilizer annually. Plant varieties Perfect partners Vines are versatile and can be used as backdrops that complement upright, fall-blooming plants such as Michaelmas daisies and dwarf Joe Pye weed; they also look particularly attractive with the many vibrant yellow, orange and red daisy-like blooms that proliferate at this time of year. Vines can also scramble along the ground, weaving through late-season perennials, their brilliantly coloured foliage a dramatic counterpoint to fall blooms. The maroon, bronze and red leaves of some vines and groundcovers are attractively accentuated by silver-toned or pink-coloured perennials.Perfect partners 1. ‘Purple Dome’ Michaelmas daisy (Aster novae-angliae ‘Purple Dome’ syn. Symphyotrichum novae-angliae ‘Purple Dome’) HEIGHT 45 cm SPREAD 35 to 45 cmDESCRIPTION purple dome of blooms in September and October; dwarf form; sturdy stems rarely need staking DESIGN ADVANTAGE for a striking combination, grow with the fiery fall foliage of ‘Gro-Low’ fragrant sumac Zone 3 2. ‘Gateway’ Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium maculatum ‘Gateway’) HEIGHT 1.25 to 2 m SPREAD 1 to 1.25m DESCRIPTION compact, upright form with masses of tiny, rosy red blooms from midsummer through fall; whorls of dark green leaves on sturdy, burgundy stems DESIGN ADVANTAGE provides great complementary colour to purple- or maroon-foliaged vines such as Virginia creeper; attractive to bees and butterflies Zone 4 3. ‘Low Down’ dwarf willow-leafed sunflower (Helianthus salicifolius ‘Low Down’) HEIGHT 30 cm SPREAD 30 to 50 cm DESCRIPTION numerous bright yellow, daisy-like blooms from September to October hide its fuzzy, green foliage DESIGN ADVANTAGE dramatic contrast of colour and form when planted in groups among dwarf blue plumbago Zone 6 4. ‘Fireworks’ goldenrod (Solidago rugosa ‘Fireworks’) HEIGHT 1 m SPREAD 60 to 90 cm DESCRIPTION upright form with arching branches laden with tiny, bright yellow blooms from September onward; dark green foliage holds up well in hot, humid weather DESIGN ADVANTAGE wonderful accent when grown through a groundcover of Virginia creeper or purple-leafed grape Zone 4- Credit
- Anne Marie Van Nest
Vines and creepers for fall interest
Round out the season with a colourful flourish of groundcovers and climbers more
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Berried bouquet
Berried bouquet ofRed alert My favourite small, striped English pottery jug sports a cheery arrangement of store-bought, velvety cockscomb (Celosia argentea) and shiny St. John's wort (Hypericum) berries, encircled by equally velvety, silvery green lambs' ears leaves from my garden.The whole is topped off by a jaunty sprig of lantana that I pinched from one of my planters. Tip: St. John's wort is a big drinker, so be sure to strip the leaves from each stem.- Credit
- Aldona Satterthwaite
Berried bouquet
Make this cheery fall arrangement more
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How to raise rapini How to raise rapini
How to raise rapini ofRavishing rapini Long a favourite in Italian cuisine, rapini is becoming better known to North Americans. Enthusiasts exult that with its bitter, peppery, nutty flavour this vegetable is the food of the gods. Although rapini (Brassica rapa Ruvo Group) is also known, among other names, as broccoli raab, broccoletti and spring broccoli, it's not a broccoli at all, but rather a turnip that doesn't form an underground root. The entire upper plant—stem, leaves and buds, which look like miniature broccoli heads—is edible. As well as being tasty, rapini is an excellent source of potassium, magnesium, calcium, iron and fibre, and vitamins A, C and K. Like all members of the cabbage family, it contains beneficial phytochemicals, which help protect against cancer. Rapini can be steamed or stir-fried, but for better flavour, colour and texture, it should not be overcooked—usually not more than two to five minutes. Young, tender growth can also be added raw to salads. Raising rapini Grow rapini in cool weather, as hot temperatures will cause the plants to bolt (shoot up and go to seed). Rapini needs fertile, humus-rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 6 to 7. Prepare the row by digging in lots of compost, then rake in an all-purpose organic fertilizer, such as 5-5-5, according to package directions. If your soil is too acidic, add limestone to raise its pH. Plant 10 to 12 seeds per 30 centimetres, five millimetres deep in rows 45 to 60 centimetres apart. Protect the seeds with a floating row cover as soon as they are planted to help guard against a number of insect problems. Keep the soil moist but not soggy until the seeds germinate. Once the seedlings are 2.5 to five centimetres tall, thin to 15 centimetres apart to encourage good-sized buds. Rapini will go to flower quickly if stressed in any way; they produce the best crop of buds under conditions facilitating steady, fairly rapid growth. Seeds can also be started early in a cold frame or indoors in average room temperatures. Use a good-quality starting medium and sow two or three seeds per cell pack. Keep the soil moist but not soggy during germination. As soon as they sprout, move seedlings to a cool area (about 10°C) and place under grow lights or in front of a sunny window. Before transplanting outside, harden seedlings off by gradually exposing them to direct sun and cooler temperatures, which will help them survive light frosts. Dig a hole a bit larger than the root ball and work in compost and organic fertilizer. Plant the seedling, firming the soil gently around the stem. Secrets for success Harvesting Rapini is ready to harvest when its buds have formed. In hot weather, check the plants daily, as the buds quickly open into flowers. Although still edible, once rapini flowers it becomes overly peppery and tough. Cut the main stem to between 10 and 15 centimetres above the coarser lower leaves. Each leaf node (where the leaves emerge from the stem) will produce another bud, so leave some on to enjoy a second crop. Individual buds can also be picked. Store unwashed rapini in sealed plastic bags in the refrigerator for up to five days. When to plant Spring-sown crops should be planted so as to mature well before the heat of summer sets in; fall crops should be planted and harvested before frosts are severe. Use the maturity dates of each variety to calculate the best time to plant the seeds. In spring, you also need to consider germinating periods; seeds will sprout within a temperature range of 4 to 35°C, taking about 14 days to germinate at 10°C, seven days at 20°C and four days at 26°C. Seedlings will survive light to moderate frosts. Secrets to success Growing rapini can be challenging, as the plants can bolt and become hot (overly peppery) and tough. Here are some strategies for success: Grow rapini in cool weather. Keep soil moist but not soggy. Keep plants well fed and thoroughly weeded. Plant several varieties to optimize chances of success. 'Sessantina', 'Sorrento', 'Spring Raab' and 'Zamboni' mature quickly and are usually dependable for spring planting, particularly for people having trouble with plants bolting. To reduce problems with pests and disease: Plant in soil that hasn't been used to grow a member of the cabbage family in the last four to five years. Remove and destroy any diseased or infested plants; do not compost. Do a good fall cleanup by removing and composting dead plants. Rapini remedies and cultivars to try Rapini cultivars to tryRapini remedies- Credit
- Heather Apple
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Visit the Tofino Botanical Gardens Visit the Tofino Botanical Gardens
Visit the Tofino Botanical Gardens ofSaved from development Tucked away at the edge of the rainforest that rims the Pacific coast shore on Vancouver Island near Tofino is a wonderfully diverse gardenscape. Established in 1997, the 12-acre Tofino Botanical Gardens is the brainchild of its director, George Patterson, a transplanted landscape designer and nurseryman from the Boston area. Although originally a private garden, TBG is now open to the public and operates as a non-profit foundation. TBG is bordered on the south by a forest reserve. The shoreline, which can be viewed from various vantage points around the garden’s property, looks onto thousands of acres of protected migratory shorebird habitat. Beyond that are the Browning Passage and Meares Island, which has been declared a Tribal Park by the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation. Also surrounding TBG are 850,000 acres of the Clayoquot Biosphere Reserve. “I was familiar with the Tofino area before I moved here,” explains Patterson. “This is where my former wife was born, so we would come back on occasion. I just fell in love with it.” The property had been slated for development, which is why Patterson bought it. He owned the land for eight years before he started his botanical garden. Time spent volunteering at Wilson Botanical Gardens in Costa Rica prepared him in part for what lay ahead. Says Patterson: “The Wilson Gardens are also next to a rainforest, so there are some similarities.” The main botanical collection at TBG focuses on the native plants of Clayoquot Sound. “About 60 species are found on the site,” says Patterson. “We’re also developing small pocket gardens along the paths that will offer some insights into comparative botany,” he adds. “Temperate rainforest plants from Chile, New Zealand, Japan and elsewhere have been sited next to natives that have something in common with the imported specimens. They may be from different families but have the same leaf shape.” This is known as convergent evolution, where plants that live in similar habitats resemble each other even though they are not related. For example, native evergreen huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum) looks an awful lot like the Chilean guava (Ugni molinae). A kilometre of pathways connects 24 different areas, each constructed on a theme. There is a Kitchen Garden, for instance, where the chef from the garden’s restaurant finds plenty of culinary inspiration. In addition to vegetables, herbs such as thyme, tarragon and borage grow in abundance, while espaliered grape vines climb on the adjacent fence. “That garden was designed by one of our volunteers, the pastry chef at C Restaurant in Vancouver,” says Patterson. A local herbalist put together the Medicinal Herb Garden, which brims over with lush plantings of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium) and marshmallow (Althaea officinalis). Beyond basic botany “In fact, over the past six years, the majority of the work in the garden has been done by volunteers,” boasts Patterson. “They’ve been really amazing. One of our volunteers from Mexico even created the map of the garden that visitors use on the self-guided tour.” A small collection of donated species rhododendrons occupies part of the garden. One cultivar, ‘George Fraser’, is named after a local rhododendron grower, and is a cross of the West Coast native Rhododendron macrophyllum and the East Coast native R. maximum. Other species include R. rex and R. sinogrande, both of which sport 50-centimetre-long leaves. Patterson’s pride and joy, the giant Himalayan lilies (Cardiocrinum giganteum), towers in another part of TBG. The lilies send up thick, 2.5- to three-metre-tall spikes with up to 20 creamy white 15- to 30-centimetre-long trumpet flowers—and grow at a rate of about 30 centimetres per week. Their strong fragrance is reminiscent of a blend of cinnamon and frangipani. The plants can take up to seven years to bloom; TBG’s bloomed in just two. In the Tropical Garden, visitors will find rice paper plant (Tetrapanax papyrifer), Japanese banana (Musa basjoo) and taro (Colocasia esculenta). But plants aren’t the only treasures found at TBG. A gazebo, along with other structures built by local artisan Jan Janzen, provides visual contrast to the foliage and offers much-welcomed shelter on a rainy day. A number of large, wooden sculptures by artist Michael Dennis also grace the property. Over in the Children’s Garden, young ones will be delighted to find a fort tucked away in the woods. Just above the high-tide line sits an 11-metre, double-ended salmon trawler, the Evian, an exhibit created to help visitors understand and appreciate the West Coast salmon fishing industry. Future themed gardens will also educate visitors beyond basic botany. Four cultural-historical gardens and exhibits are currently being developed. When completed, they will teach about the peoples who have settled and left their mark in Clayoquot Sound: the First Nations, the European settlers from the turn of the century, the Japanese fishing community and the 1970s-era hippies. Tofino Botanical Gardens is within a 20-minute walk or cycle of most of the community’s accommodations. In typical West Coast fashion, canoe and kayak arrivals are encouraged (best at medium to high tide). If you go: Tofino Botanical Gardens is located at 1084 Pacific Rim Highway in Tofino, B.C. For opening times and admission fees, call 250/725-1220 or visit www.tbgf.org.- Credit
- Janet Collins
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A master class in using colour A master class in using colour
A master class in using colour ofColour design lesson When we think of master colourists in the garden, Canadians Nori and Sandra Pope come to mind. The couple became famous for their extraordinary use of colour during their 20 years of stewardship at Hadspen Garden in Somerset, England. Their designs favour monochromatic, tone-on-tone planting schemes that move from light to dark.The Popes refer to the language of music to help explain their colour theories. Their gardens have rhythm, says Nori, because a monochromatic scheme brings into focus the structure and movement of the plants, while repeated patterns draw the eye along the landscape. In a piece of music, he explains, too many different sounds at once are unpleasant. Similarly, using a riot of colour in a garden is like a “visual car crash.” The Popes’ gardens are peaceful and comfortable—so much so that it’s easy to take for granted the artistry involved in how they’re created. Although the couple’s designs merge seamlessly, they each have their own style. “Sandra,” says Nori, “is sublimely classical, while I’m more boogie-woogie.” In addition to being designers, the pair are also plant breeders, which gives them an enormous advantage. When they’re unable to find the perfect plant for a combination, Sandra tells Nori, “Just make one.” And he does. This has resulted in such gorgeous introductions as ‘Hadspen Blood’ masterwort (Astrantia major ‘Hadspen Blood’) and ‘Goldheart’ bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis ‘Goldheart’). Other plants they’ve developed, though, have just been for their own use—to fill a hole in the garden or to complete a grouping. Nori Pope's pro pointers Nori Pope's pro pointers• When beginning to work with colour, start with just two—yellow and orange, for example—and make small groupings, repeating both hues and plant shapes.• When pairing flowering and foliage plants, don’t assume every green leaf will work effectively with every flower colour. For example, a purple bloom will stand out against chartreuse foliage, but will disappear against a darker, duller leaf.• Pay attention to foliage, which always dominates the border. Look for patterns and colours in the leaves and echo them in nearby plants. For example, match the purple-red splotch in the centre of ‘Sunspot’ heucherella with a flower of the same colour. • Study how colour works in the natural landscape and mimic these effects in your garden. White separates colours from one another, emphasizing other plants. Blue in the background makes a space look larger, while yellow lights up dark corners; keep in mind that red and purple are harder to see from a distance.• Use colour to evoke emotion. For example, light shades create a feeling of openness; dark ones, on the other hand, are more theatrical.• Don’t be afraid to combine vegetables with ornamentals to create strong contrasts. Designer facts Designer factsThe Popes met while Nori, who has degrees in botany and fine arts, taught orcharding at British Columbia’s North Island College. Sandra was working on an all-red garden on her Denman Island homestead at that time and turned to Nori, who also had a nursery, for his red plants.In the 1980s, the Popes opened a nursery in B.C. that specialized in old-fashioned roses. This led to the pair corresponding with the late British gardening gurus Graham Stuart Thomas and Christopher Lloyd. Nori and Sandra decided to take a European sabbatical in 1986—and their fate was sealed. Through Thomas and Lloyd, the couple came upon Hadspen, a garden that had become neglected and overgrown. They fell in love with its possibilities, and redesigned and nurtured it for 20 years. Now back home on Pender Island, B.C., the Popes are developing a garden and breeding plants, all the while gazing down at the ocean, where their sailboat stands ready to lure them away. More tips• Use contrasting foliage to create drama• Using various tones of green is a great way to make a shade garden pop.• To draw the eye along a path, use one colour in repeated patterns.• Combine fragrant white plants, such as ‘Margaret Merrill’ rose, double-flowered ‘Alba Plena’ dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis ‘Alba Plena’) and white valerian (Centranthus ruber ‘Albus’), for a romantic evening garden.- Credit
- Carol Gardner
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Punch up your menu with the bold taste of... Punch up your menu with the bold taste of...
Punch up your menu with the bold taste of... ofGrilled rapini with caramelized lemon Grilled rapini with caramelized lemonMakes 4 servingsIn this easy-to-make dish, barbecuing the rapini gives it a crisp texture and tempers its slightly bitter flavour. And when lemons are grilled, their flavour is surprisingly sweet.1 bunch rapini (about 1 lb., or 450 g), bottoms of stalks trimmed2 tbsp. (30 mL) olive oil1 tsp. (5 mL) salt1 lemon, cut in half crosswiseBrush rapini with oil and sprinkle with salt.Grill directly on a hot barbecue about 1 minute per side or until slightly browned; leaves will darken and get a little crisp. Transfer to a platter.Grill lemon halves cut sides down for a few minutes or until browned. Place on platter with rapini.Squeeze lemon over rapini to serve. Rapini and red pepper frittata Rapini and red pepper frittataMakes 6 to 8 servingsThis is a great way to introduce people to rapini, as it tastes quite mild when blanched and combined with these other delicious ingredients. For a vegetarian version, omit the pancetta (unsmoked Italian bacon).1 bunch rapini (about 1 lb., or 450 g), bottoms of stalks trimmed1 tbsp. (15 mL) olive oil2 oz. (50 g) pancetta, diced1 onion, chopped2 cloves garlic, finely choppedPinch hot pepper flakes1 red pepper, peeled, diced1 yellow pepper, peeled, diced6 eggs¼ cup (60 mL) water1 tsp. (5 mL) salt¼ tsp. (1 mL) black pepper2 cups (500 mL) grated asiago cheese2 tbsp. (30 mL) chopped fresh basilBring a large pot of water to a boil. Add rapini and cook for 5 minutes; drain well and chop. Squeeze gently to remove excess water. Set aside.Heat oil in a large skillet. Add pancetta and cook until crisp. Stir in onion, garlic and hot pepper flakes; sauté gently until tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add red and yellow peppers and continue cooking about 5 minutes or until tender. Add rapini; cook until any liquid in pan has evaporated. Remove from heat and let cool.Beat eggs in a large bowl. Add water, salt and black pepper. Blend in vegetable mixture and 1½ cups (375 mL) of cheese. Pour into an oiled 8- inch (1.5-L) baking dish. Sprinkle with remaining cheese and basil.Bake in a preheated 350˚F (180˚C) oven for 30 minutes or until centre springs back when lightly pressed. Cool 10 minutes before cutting into squares and serving. Penne with potato and rapini Penne with potato and rapiniMakes 6 servingsAnchovies add a wonderful flavour to this sauce without tasting fishy, but you may omit them if you wish.1 tsp. (5 mL) salt1 baking potato, peeled, diced¾ lb. (340 g) penne1 bunch rapini (about 1 lb., or 450 g), bottoms of stalks trimmed¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil4 cloves garlic, finely chopped3 anchovies, rinsed, minced¼ tsp. (1 mL) hot pepper flakesSalt and pepper to tasteBring a large pot of water to a boil. Add salt and potato; return to a boil, then add penne. Once water is again boiling, reduce heat and cook at a gentle boil for 5 minutes. Add rapini. Cook a further 5 minutes or until pasta is tender. Drain, reserving ½ cup (125 mL) pasta water.Meanwhile, heat oil in a large, deep skillet. Add garlic, anchovies and hot pepper flakes; cook gently for a few minutes or until garlic is fragrant and tender. Add reserved pasta water; cook additional 3 minutes or so.Add pasta mixture to pan and combine; cook for 2 to 3 minutes; season with salt and pepper to taste.- Credit
- Bonnie Stern
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Family secret tomato sauce Family secret tomato sauce
Family secret tomato sauce ofFamily secret tomato sauce How do you preserve your abundance of tomatoes and not let one juicy fruit go to waste? If you are into canning and preserves, you can turn your bounty into rich sauces, relishes or jellies. Here is a recipe from Barbara Kingsolver's Animal, Vegetable, Miracle that might just make you want to double your crop next year.Family secret tomato sauceThe point of this recipe is to make a large amount at one time, when tomatoes are in season. If you’re canning it, stick closely to the recipe; adding additional fresh vegetables will change the pH so it’s unsafe for water-bath canning. If you’re freezing it, then it’s fine to throw in peppers, mushrooms, fresh garlic, whatever you want. This recipe makes 6-7 quarts*—you can use a combination of pint and quart canning jars or freezer boxes.10 quarts tomato puree (about 30 pounds tomatoes)4 large onions, chopped1 cup dried basil½ cup honey4 tablespoons dried oregano3 tablespoons salt2 tablespoons ground dried lemon peel2 tablespoons thyme2 tablespoons garlic powder (or more, to taste)2 tablespoons dried parsley2 teaspoons pepper2 teaspoons cinnamon½ teaspoon nutmegSoften onions in a heavy 3-gallon kettle—add a small amount of water if necessary but no oil if you are canning (very important!). Add pureed tomatoes and all seasonings, bring to a boil, and simmer on low heat for two to three hours until sauce has thickened to your liking. Stir frequently, especially toward the end, to avoid burning. Meanwhile, heat water in canner bath, sterilize jars in boiling water or dishwasher, and pour boiling water over jar lids.Bottled lemon juice or citric acid—NOT optional!Add 2 tablespoons of lemon juice OR ½ teaspoon citric acid to each quart jar (hald that much to pint jars). This ensures that the sauce will be safely acidic. When the sauce is ready, ladle it into the jars, leaving ½-inch headspace. Cap jars, lower gently into canner and boil for 35 minutes. Remove, cool, check all seals, label, and store for winter.*1 quart = 4 cupsFrom Animal, Vegetable, Miracle. Published by HarperCollins Publishers Ltd. Copyright © 2008 by Barbara Kingsolver. All rights reserved. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers Ltd.- Credit
- Barbara Kingsolver
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A harvest of hues A harvest of hues
A harvest of hues ofA harvest of hues It wasn’t so long ago that gardeners began putting their gardens to bed for the winter on Labour Day: pulling out all annuals, tying up shrubs and cutting perennials to the ground. After all, the growing season was over—wasn’t it? But today’s garden is increasingly seen as a spot that can be beautiful year-round, and rather than closing down their beds in autumn, gardeners now want colour until the snow flies, or even beyond. And it’s so easy to achieve. Hundreds of plants offer fall colours to carry your landscape through to early winter. Autumn interest comes from flowers of course—numerous plants bloom from mid-September through November—but also from bright foliage and attractive fruit and berries. So infuse your patch with all three. Such plants are available in so many categories (bulbs, perennials, trees, shrubs, grasses) and grow under such a wide range of conditions (sun or shade, rich or poor soil, dry or moist conditions) that there is something for every environment. A good rule of thumb to ensure late-season colour is that 20 per cent of your plants should be in bloom or in fruit, or sport colourful leaves at the beginning of fall. Choose your flowers with care, however; in short-season climates, some, such as nippon daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum), bugbane (Actaea simplex) and Japanese anemone (Anemone hupehensis), may simply bloom too late. Most flowers, though, adapt to daylength. For example, the same fall mums and asters may start to bloom in late August in Yellowknife, but not until October in Ontario’s Niagara region. Should the cold come early (and some years it does), you’ll discover that most of the plants described here can shrug off light frosts. Those with attractive berries are the toughest of the lot, and many still look great and have fruit well into winter.And don’t worry about cleaning up your fall-interest plants before winter. Most experts agree that the less tidying up you do, the healthier your plants will be in the spring because dying foliage helps protect them from severe cold. Just let them do their thing; you can do any necessary cleanup at the start of the next growing season.Crank up the colourFall colour is best when days are warm and sunny and nights are brisk but above freezing. Here are some things you can do to get the most bang from your blooms:Plant in a sunny spot Stop fertilizing by mid-AugustWater plants well in the summer but sparingly in the fallThe more, the berrierSome plants with attractive fall berries need cross-pollination to produce fruit. This is especially true of hollies and bittersweet (Celastrus spp.), as they are dioecious (male and female flowers appear on separate plants). It’s now often possible to buy “combination pots” that offer a male and female plant growing together. If not available, plant one male for every five to eight females. Larry's favourites Larry's favourites- Credit
- Larry Hodgson
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From the Editor
Welcome to the new CanadianGardening.com
I’m proud to welcome you to Canadian Gardening’s brand new website, which is designed to be beautiful, useful, interesting and interactive. Like a garden, this website is a work in progress. Many more features will be added over the coming months, so please check back often. Better still, become a member and we’ll notify you when new updates are made.
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Latest issue
August/September 2008
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Give your garden a boost
Is your mulch a health hazard? Refresh container plantings; shape up your soil; plant the best phlox and junipers; late-summer lush gardens and more! more -
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Gardener at Large
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How Does Your Bulb Garden Grow?
Not sure of the difference between a light bulb and a flower bulb? Test your knowledge on how to plant and care for bulbs with this quick True or False quiz.
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How Does Your Bulb Garden Grow?
Not sure of the difference between a light bulb and a flower bulb? Test your knowledge on how to plant and care for bulbs with this quick True or False quiz.
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Favourite Plants
An ideal book for Canadian gardeners looking for perennials, roses, trees and shrubs to suit their particular locations, from Zone 3 to the warmest climates in the country. It includes planting and growing advice, detailed descriptions and information from the personal experience of expert Canadian gardeners. The lush photographs will inspire every gardener. more
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