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Today, I will discuss one of the most commonly forgotten ingredients in cooking: honey.
Cultivated from the nectar of flowers, honey is a mixture of sugars, mostly fructose and glucose (from which it gets its sweetness, which is comparable to granulated sugar), as well as water and other compounds.
It has been used for centuries as a treatment for sore throats and coughs - and from my personal experience it is often more effective than most common medicines, especially if you mix it with chamomile, orange zest and grappa.
When it comes to cooking, honey can be used not only for desserts and hot beverages, but also in main courses, as you will see in this squab (an unfledged pigeon) recipe.
Not all honey is the same. High-quality natural honey will stand out with its fragrance and taste. (JOHN MORSTAD FOR THE GLOBE AND MAIL)
Videos
In the launch of his new video column, Beppi Crosariol explains the how, why and when of decanting
Not all honey is the same. Most commercially available versions are blended, which means that it is a mixture of two or more honeys. High-quality natural honey will stand out with its fragrance and taste.
One way to be assured of quality is to find out how and where it's been made.
Certified organic honey is produced, processed and packaged in accordance with specific regulations. Ecocert Canada, now one of the leaders in organic and environmental certification in the Canadian market, approves one of the honeys I use at Toqué!, made by Récolte Nature from Gaspésie.
It is not easy to produce certified organic honey. For Récolte Nature, it means that within a radius of three kilometres from their apiary site, nectar and pollen sources must consist essentially of organic crops or uncultivated areas, which is still possible in Gaspésie.
The honey is not pasteurized, which means it has not been heated. It crystallizes faster than commercially distributed honey, which is a sign of good quality.
As you know, I always look for the highest quality available on the market, and make it a priority to support all local producers that can help me reach that goal. I urge you to do the same.
Dough
What you need
500 grams flour
1 egg
100 millilitres water
Squab in a jar
What you need
Rosemary
Thyme
Sage
Lemon peels
1 head of garlic, smashed
4 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1½ tablespoons butter
2 400-gram squabs (unfledged pigeons)
Salt and pepper
What you do
Make a well in the flour and slowly incorporate egg and water. Work the dough with hands until smooth. Wrap in plastic and set aside.
Preheat oven to 450 F. In a bowl, mix whole herbs (don't remove from branches) with lemon peels and garlic.
Divide the herb and garlic mixture in two oven-safe jars and add two spoonfuls of honey in each. Meanwhile, heat extra virgin olive oil and butter over medium heat in a pan.
Season the squab generously with salt and pepper and quickly sear its skin for a minute or so. When browned, place each squab in its individual jar and cover with the lid.
Take a long strip of dough (about an inch in diameter) and, starting with one end, create a seal by pressing the dough onto the seam of the lid and jar.
Once the dough is secure, place jars in the oven for 12 minutes. Remove and let the squab rest for about 5 minutes.
Break the seal by tapping the dough off with the back of a knife and pry the lid open.
Place the squab on a plate. Strain the herbs and honey from the jar and pour over the squab. Serves 2.
Normand Laprise is co-owner and head chef of Toqué! in Montreal.
*****
Beppi's wine matches
Had the bird been served alone or simply with savoury pan juices, I would have recommended a very dry, full-bodied red, such as Bordeaux or something from the southern Rhone. But the touch of sweetness here calls for a more fruit-driven wine, such as an Australian red based on grenache, shiraz or mourvedre (or all three). One good choice: Penfolds Bin 138 Shiraz Grenache Mourvedre (about $35). But even your favourite $13 shiraz could work. A good choice for white-wine lovers, and my own personal preference: viognier.
Beppi Crosariol
