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Glacier Bay & Wrangell-St. Elias
Current Conditions: Copper Center, AK

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-9°F Feels like -23°F

(LifeWire) — Alaska's Glacier Bay and Wrangell-St. Elias national parks are two of the world's rare places where visitors can admire a pristine, awe-inspiring landscape barely touched by civilization. Part of a chain of glaciers spanning the United States and Canada, the national treasures are rich with cultural and natural history, and at 24 million acres, this is the largest protected area in the world.

Glacier Bay: a trip to the Ice Age

Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, a vista of islands and shorelines, was completely under ice more than two centuries ago. Today the park is accessible only by water and air, and it encompasses 10 tidewater glaciers. Scientists believe the park has experienced at least four glacial periods. The last such period started about 4,000 years ago, according to the National Park Service. Today's glaciers are remnants of that era and continue to retreat by three to six feet a day.

At the mouth of Glacier Bay, where the ice melted about 300 years ago, spruce and hemlock forests thrive. Closer to the glaciers, where the earth was uncovered more recently, the vegetation gradually becomes smaller and less mature until it completely disappears in the areas adjacent to the ice. The park offers a rare opportunity for modern humans to travel to the Ice Age.

Wrangell-St. Elias: discovery of a lifetime

The largest national park in the United States, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is a vast ecosystem the size of six Yellowstones. Wrangell-St. Elias boasts nine of the 16 tallest U.S. peaks. Among them are Mount St. Elias, the second-tallest peak in the United States at 18,008 feet, and Mount Wrangell, one of North America's largest active volcanoes at 14,163 feet.

The preserve's glaciers are equally impressive, with three of them among the world's largest. The enormous ice sheets continue to move and change the landscape, grinding the mountains and rock underneath at a rate that ranges from a few inches to several feet every year.

The park is home to a wide variety of Alaskan wildlife including mountain goats, moose, Dall sheep, caribou and black and grizzly bears. Bird lovers may spot golden and bald eagles, trumpeter swans, ptarmigan, grouse and owls. Along the coast, look out for marine mammals such as seals, otters and whales.

The future of Glacier Bay and Wrangell-St. Elias

The main environmental problems facing the two parks result from visitor and recreational use, climate change that melts glaciers and permafrost, and development-related pressures that could degrade habitat. As part of the National Park Service's Centennial Initiative 2016, both parks have strategies that focus on preserving resources and enhancing park quality.

The strategy for Wrangell-St. Elias includes controlling invasive species to preserve native habitat, implementing a monitoring and research program for wildlife and conducting research related to climate change. For Glacier Bay, the strategy includes reintroducing key species to preserve native habitat and being a test site for installation of a hydrogen fuel cell in Bartlett Cove.

Don't-miss Glacier Bay and Wrangell-St. Elias experiences

  • Wrangell-St. Elias is a popular backcountry travel destination, with abundant hiking opportunities. Don't miss the Boreal Forest Trail, an easy half-mile stroll from the Copper Visitor Center. Part of the loop is a remnant of the historic Valdez Trail, used by prospectors during the Gold Rush and now buried under new highways. The Liberty Falls Trail, a 2.5-mile hike, offers spectacular views of Copper River and the mountains. (hiking guide)
  • The view of Wrangell-St. Elias from the sky is unparalleled; tours as short as 35 minutes offered by Wrangell Mountain Air provide an unforgettable bird's-eye view of the scenery.
  • Glacier Bay is best experienced from the water, and one of the most popular options is a kayaking trip, either guided and non-guided. First-time visitors may prefer the high-speed catamaran tour that departs from Glacier Bay Lodge and visits the glaciers. A park ranger rides along on the nine-hour tour, offering insights into the park's wonders and pointing out wildlife.
  • Whale watching is another popular attraction at Glacier Bay. Glacier Bay Lodge & Tours offers three-hour whale-watching dinners on a trip through Icy Straight.

Insider tips

At Wrangell, visit Kennecott Mine, a National Historic Landmark and at one time the richest copper mine in the world. You can see residual structures from the mill town and mines, which at one point had their own railway.

Glacier Bay has a few maintained trails and also offers wilderness hiking. The six-mile (one-way) shore walk from Bartlett Cove dock to Point Gustavus offers glimpses of songbirds, wildlife and colorful wildflowers in midsummer.

Glacier Bay and Wrangell-St. Elias basics

Getting to Wrangell-St. Elias: A number of major airlines and all the major car rental companies serve Alaska's major airport, Ted Stevens Anchorage International (current temps./delays). Wrangell-St. Elias is accessible by the Richardson Highway and the Tok Cutoff. It is a day's drive east of Anchorage. The park's headquarters, which includes the main visitors center, a theater, exhibits and other amenities, is within 10 miles of Glennallen (current temps./forecast). Chartered air taxi and boats also provide park access.

Getting around: The park's two roads, McCarthy and Nabesna, are rugged but usually vehicle-friendly in the summer; visitors are advised to check in at the visitors center before heading in. The park has numerous airstrips for those who prefer to fly in.

Accommodations: No formal campgrounds exist on park property, so campers simply pitch tents in any of the public areas along the two roads; no reservations are required. The park offers public-use cabins, mostly in remote areas. Commercial campgrounds, cabins and other accommodations are available on private property within park boundaries as well as near the park. These include McCarthy Bed & Breakfast's furnished cabins on McCarthy Road and the Wrangell Roost Lodge on Nabesna Road.

Dining: Most visitors eat at their hotel or lodge; check ahead to make sure yours serves meals.

When to go: The best time to visit Wrangell-St. Elias is early June through mid-September (monthly temps.).

Getting to Glacier Bay: Most visitors arrive in and explore Glacier Bay by cruise ship. Taxis and a limited-schedule bus provide a connection between nearby Gustavus (current temps./forecast) and the park; the taxis can also take visitors between destinations within the park. Many inns offer bicycles for getting around.

Accommodations: A campground and Glacier Bay Lodge provide in-park accommodations, and backcountry camping is unlimited. Free camping permits are required for the campground and for the backcountry from May 1 to September 30. No reservations are required, but campers must attend a 30-minute orientation to receive permits. In Gustavus, try the Gustavus Inn at Glacier Bay, the site of a 1928 homestead that offers gourmet dining, or Growley Bear Bed & Breakfast, an Alaska-style cabin.

When to go: The best time to visit is late May through early September. Most visitors arrive in July. Facilities are limited the rest of the year. (monthly temps.)

More Information for Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

 

LifeWire provides original and syndicated content to web publishers. Rodika Tollefson lived in Alaska for eight years, enjoying views of mountains and moose from the backyard of her Anchorage home. Today she writes from her home in Gig Harbor, Washington.

 

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