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Monday, September 27, 2004
DO NOT WEAR THIS ON YOUR HEAD!
Drawstring Baby Pants
copyright 05/20/04 Dot Matthews
materials: I and H hook; red heart soft baby
Waist=18 inches
waist to crotch = 8 ½ inches
3/23/05 1 correction made to ROW 1 LEG RIBBING - change made in blue. Thank you, Debbie, for bringing this to my attention.
4/4/05 correction made to LEG RIBBING - change made in blue. Added "repeat row 3 and 4 around, slip stitch seam together. Thank you, again, Debbie. I appreciate your help.
WAISTBAND RIBBING:
with H hook
Row 1: ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 chs. ch 1, turn (5 sts)
Row 2: working in back loops only, sc in next 5 sts. ch 1, turn(5 sts)
Row 3 – 60: Repeat row 2
Row 61: join to first row by slip stitch through back loop and free loops of beginning ch. Be careful not to twist waist band.
BODY from waist to top of legs:
change to I hook
Row 1: working in rounds now, ch 1 turn, sc in ends of rows around. Join in first sc. (60 sts total)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first st), 1 dc in ea sc around, Join in top of ch 3. (60 sts total)
Row 3 thru 11: Ch 3, 1 dc in ea dc around. Join in top of ch 3. (60 sts total)
note: For larger pants, add more rows to the body
FIRST LEG:
Row 1: ch 3 (counts as first st), dc in next 29 dc's, join in top of ch 3. (30 sts total)
note: leave remaining dc's unworked…we'll use those later
Row 2 – 10: ch 3, dc in next 29 sts, join in top of ch 3.
Row 11: ch 3, decrease over next 2 dc around, dc in last dc, join in top of ch 3.
LEG RIBBING:
Change to H hook
Row 1: ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 chs. sl st in same space as chain, sl st in next st.
Row 2: Turn (do not ch) sk sl sts, sc in back loop only of next 4 sts. ch 1 turn
Row 3: sc in back loops only of next 4 sts, sl st in next 2 sts,
Row 4: turn, sc in back loop only of next 4 scs. Repeat row 3 and 4 around leg, sl st seam togeter. fasten off and weave in ends
SECOND LEG:
switch to I hook
Join yarn through both loops of first and last stitch of first leg, (working in unworked stitches)
Row 1: Ch 3, dc in each dc around. Join in top of ch 3.
Row 2 – 11: work same as rows 2-11 on first leg.
Now do ribbing same as first leg. Fasten off and weave in ends.
WAIST TIE:
Ch 150, sl st 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off. Tie know in each end close to ends and cut tail close to knot. Weave tie through waist under ribbing.
Posted at 12:25 pm by Dot
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Sunday, September 26, 2004
There seems to be some problems at PhotoBucket, where I store my pictures and some or all of my pictures are not showing up here. Sure looks bad, doesn't it? Anyway, please be patient and maybe all will be restored soon. I know they are working on finding the problem. Keep your fingers crossed. Thanks.
Posted at 03:50 pm by Dot
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Thursday, September 23, 2004
TA DAAAAA!
Well, I'll be darned, she can make something besides hats.
I designed this pattern because Lark Books asked if I had any poncho patterns. Well I didn't, but now I do. Anyway, I submitted this pattern picture to them today, and I'll see what happens with it. As soon as I hear from them, I'll let you know if I can post the pattern or not.
By the way, Lark liked my Half Looped hat and may be publishing it in the future. Here's a picture of what I submitted to them...
Posted at 09:22 pm by Dot
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Well, why not? I like ponchos and it's something I'll probably wear...or not. Anyway, just for a lark, I decided to see if I could do this. Making a poncho is a cinch (I told myself). What's so hard about this anyway? Making 2 rectangles is easy enough. Putting them together in the shape of a poncho...not easy at all. That's where I ran into trouble. I had no idea it would be so hard making ends meet. I finally had to put it away and sleep on it. Today I finally figured it out and I now have a poncho I'm OK with. As soon as I weave in the ends and add a trim, I'll post a picture.
If I never wear this poncho, I did learn something from making it. I made 2 rectangles that are both the same size on both ends. I can't believe this. I've never, ever, made a rectangle that didn't end up bigger on one end than the other. My rectangles are usually shaped like this / \ instead of this | |. Here's how I did it...
make a foundation chain the length called for in your pattern. Now, instead of working 1 stitch in each stitch across, I worked sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, skip one chain, sc in next chain, across, ending with a sc in last ch.
That's it. I then worked the 2nd row in every stitch, treating the chain 1 spaces just like they were a stitch. I was totally amazed at the results. The starting row was just as stretchy as the ending row and the whole thing was EVEN on both ends! What a discovery.
Posted at 11:42 am by Dot
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Tuesday, September 14, 2004
DO YOU KNOW WHAT THIS IS?
No it is not a hat!
It's a wimple. Yes it is. Here, read this if you don't believe me...
wim·ple ( w¹m"p…l) n. 1. A cloth wound around the head, framing the face, and drawn into folds beneath the chin, worn by women in medieval times and as part of the habit of certain orders of nuns. 2. a. A fold or pleat in cloth. b. A ripple, as on the surface of water. c. A curve or bend. v. wim·pled wim·pling wim·ples v. tr. 1. To cover with or dress in a wimple. 2. To cause to form folds, pleats, or ripples. v. intr. 1. Archaic To form or lie in folds. 2. To ripple. [Middle English wimpel from Old English;... {copied from The American Heritage Talking Dictionary}
  
  
I told you so... and, when it's not worn as a hood, you can wear it as a scarf.
And if you're really daring, you can wear it as a tube top. Woo Hoo! Not my thing,  but you never know! 
Here's another one just a little dressier. I can't wait till it gets cold! 
Posted at 12:06 pm by Dot
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SO SIMPLE WIMPLE
copyright © 091404 Dot Matthews
Materials:
L hook for chain
K hook for pattern
ww yarn, 5 oz approximately
gauge: not important
Ch 90, join in 1st ch to form a ring. Be careful not to twist chain.
ROW 1: ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 1, (sk 1 st, sc in next st, ch 1) around, join in first sc. (45 ch-1 spaces and 45 sc)
ROW 2: turn, (sc in ch-1 space, ch 1) around. Join in first sc. (45 ch-1 spaces and 45 sc)
ROW 3 through 57: repeat row 2. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Note 1: when turning your work, do not ch 1
Note 2: it's not really necessary to count rows, just continue until piece fits the way you like it.
TIP: If you're worried about the chain twisting, replace the beginning chain and row 1 with this... ch 91, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 st, (sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) across, join in first sc and continue with row 2. A simple stitch when you weave in ends will close the small gap that this will leave.
Posted at 11:35 am by Dot
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Wednesday, September 08, 2004
Some of my Blog Buddies have made buttons and/or graphics for me. I know they spent a lot of time creating these gifts and I want to show them off and make sure they know how much I appreciate them.
Sutty Girl made this for me awhile back. Real cute, Sutty. Thank you.
It's really a blinkie, but I stopped it from blinking. Sorry Sutty, I love the button.
Foxy Lady made the little cheer leader you all have been looking at every time you visit here. In case I didn't say it before, thank you, Foxy, she's a real cutie pie.
A couple days ago Yarn Tomato surprised me with these two buttons. Don't you just love the pictures? She used a couple of my finished projects to make these. They're great, Donna. Thank you so much.
Today, I received this from Sutty Girl. She also used a picture from my completed projects. Talk about fast, I don't think I had this picture posted for more than an hour and look what she did! Wow.
Thank you Sutty Girl.
And, here's Sutty's latest creation for me. I've been renamed "Mad Hatter" at Crochetville.
Posted at 07:36 pm by Dot
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If you think I'm CRANKIN out the patterns, let me try to explain what's happening here.
I'll use the last 2 patterns as an example of what I'm calling a 2 for 1 process. I had an idea several weeks ago to design a hat with X's and O's in it. I don't know why...I just did. Well, anyway, X's are no problem to do and I like doing them, but O's are not as easy for me to figure out, so I tried to make O's by using a short chain and skipping stitches. Gave me more of a dash than an O, but what the heck, I had a title in mind so I kept it, I didn't think X's and Dashes sounded as good.
When I finished the X's and O's hat and tried it on my head, it came down over my eyes (sort of). So I thought that I'd try it again with hdc's instead of dc's to get a somewhat shorter version of this hat. I usually make a hat twice anyway to test the pattern for errors and make changes as I do the second one.
OK, here's where the 2 for 1 part comes in. I was following the pattern, testing it and writing it over so I'd find any mistakes and I guess the gold yarn didn't want to be a skully, it wanted to be a brimmed hat. So I just let it go and do it's own thing and VOILA! a new design and a 2 for 1 pattern.
So, there you have it. It's the yarns fault, not mine. I didn't plan on making a new hat, the yarn did it. I'm starting to think the yarn is possesed with the spirit of a designer passed.
Oh, now that's spooky. I was just kidding up until this point, but I just realized the yarn I'm using used to belong to a lady who died of cancer, and these hats are destined to be donated, in her name, to the cancer center she attended. Guess she's guiding my hand and she decided to help!
What's your spin on it?
Posted at 12:18 pm by Dot
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SASSY - CHILD
 
copyright © 09/07/04 Dot Matthews
Hat size: 19 - 19 1/2
Gauge: 3 hdc rows = 2" and 7 hdc sts=2" (approximately)
Materials: K hook; 3 oz ww yarn, completed hat weighs 2 oz.
Note 1: Beginning chain does NOT count as a stitch.
Note 2: Numbers in ( ) at end of rows depicts total number of stitches for that row.
Note 3: When joining rows, skip over beginning chain and join in first actual stitch.
ROW 1: ch 3, 12 hdc in 1st st. Join in first hdc. (12 sts)
ROW 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in ea st around. Join in first hdc. (24 sts)
ROW 3: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st as join, 1 hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st. Repeat from * around, join in first hdc. (36 sts)
ROW 4: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st as join, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around, join in first hdc. (48 sts)
ROW 5: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st as join, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * around, join in first hdc. (60 sts)
ROW 6: ch 2, hdc in same st as join, 1 hdc in st to the right of st just made - that's the last stitch of the previous row - *sk the next st, hdc in next st, hdc in the st just skipped. Repeat from * around, join in first hdc. (30 crossed stitch groups)
ROW 7: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 8: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 9: ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 3, *sk 3 sts, sc in next st, ch 3. Repeat from * around, join in first sc. (15 ch-3 spaces and 15 sc's)
ROW 10: ch 1, sc in same st as join, 3 sc over the ch-3 space, *sc in next sc, 3 sc over the next ch-3 space. Repeat from * around, join in the first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 11: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around. (60 sts)
ROW 12: ch 2, hdc in same st as join, 1 hdc in st to the right of st just made - that's the last stitch of the previous row - *sk the next st, hdc in next st, hdc in the st just skipped. Repeat from * around, join in first hdc. (30 crossed stitch groups)
ROW 13: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 14: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 15: WORK IN BACK LOOP ONLY FOR THIS ROUND: ch 1, TURN, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 4 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around, join in first sc. (72 sts)
ROW 16: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (72 sts)
ROW 17: ch 1, TURN, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around, join in first sc. (84 sts)
ROW 18: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (84 sts)
ROW 19: ch 1, *sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from * around, join in first sc. (96 sts)
ROW 20: sl st in ea st around, join in first sl st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Posted at 11:43 am by Dot
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Tuesday, September 07, 2004
X's and O's
 
copyright © 09/06/04 Dot Matthews
Materials:
J hook
ww yarn 2 - 3 ozs.
Note 1: beginning chain does not count as a stitch
Note 2: when joining, skip the beginning chain and join in first real stitch
Note 3: numbers in ( ) at end of rows depicts number of stitches for that row
ROW 1: ch 4, 12 dc's in 1st st. (12 sts)
ROW 2: ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each st around. join in first dc. (24 sts)
ROW 3: ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, 1 dc in next st next st, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) around. Join in first dc. (36 sts)
ROW 4: ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, 1 dc in next 2 sts, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 sts) around. Join in 1st dc. (48 sts)
ROW 5: ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, 1 dc in next 3 sts, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts) around. Join in 1st dc. (60 sts)
ROW 6: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, dc in st to the right of the join (that's in the last dc of the previous row) sk next dc, dc in next st, dc in skipped st (that's the stitch you just skipped - this forms a crossed dc ), now working forward again, (sk next dc, dc in next st, dc in skipped st) around. Join in 1st dc. (30 crossed stitch groups)
ROW 7: ch 1, sc in same st as join, 1 sc in next st and in each st around. Join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 8: Repeat row 7 (60 sts)
ROW 9: ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 3, (sk 3 sts, sc in next st, ch 3) around. Join in 1st sc. (15 ch-3 spaces)
ROW 10: ch 1, sc in same st as join, 3 sc in next ch-3 space (sc in next st, 3 sc in next ch-3 space) around. Join in 1st sc. (60 sts)
ROW 11: ch 1, sc in same st as join, 1 sc in next st and in each st around. Join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 12: repeat row 6. (30 crossed stitch groups)
ROW 13: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next st and in each st around. Join in frist sc. (60 sts)
ROW 14: repeat row 13. (60 sts)
ROW 15: ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 3 (sk 3, sc in next st ch 3) around. Join in first sc. (15 ch-3 spaces)
ROW 16: ch 1, sc in same st as join, 3 sc in next ch-3 space (sc in next st, 3 sc in next ch-3 space) around. Join in 1st sc. (60 sts)
Posted at 08:52 pm by Dot
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