(2) 88-91 Civic EX/LX power window actuators -- $50-100 bucks (mine were $70)
(4) 4' lengths of wire
(2) 2' length of wire
(2) Center momentary window switch -- $14 from Auto-zone
(1) 30 Amp in-line fuse holder w/ fuse -- $2 from Wal-Mart
I went to the junk yard and removed the power window assemblies out of a 91 LX. $70 for them. Total up the rest of the parts and I may have spent $110 total on the conversion.
DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME
1: Remove door trim panel
2: Cut away the plastic liner, afterwards you may want to replace this.
3: Starting with drivers side remove the window. There is 1.5' hole at the lower front of the door. Crank the window down until you can see the 10mm bolt through the hole. Remove the front and rear bolts at this time.
5: To remove the manual window actuator there are (4)10 mm bolts around where the crank. Plus 2 more 10mm bolts, back by the where the arm-rest was on the door panel. Remove all of these bolts and let the
assembly collapse down onto itself, slide it out the large hole towards the back of the door.
5: Now laying both the manual and power assemblies side-by-side you will notice some differences in them. The first being that the tracks are different lengths. Also the power actuator has a different set of mounting points than the manual one.
6: Since the tracks are different they will need to be swapped over. Just take a drill and go to work on those dents that keep the wheel from
sliding out of the track. A 1/4" drill bit works well to drill out the "bump-stops". Swap the tracks over from your CRX onto the power
assemblies. Make sure you put the lower track on right side up.
** Note: The Window "tab" up and at the rear of the door.
While you have all the shit out of the door, it would be beneficial to grease all the rails. This will keep the window operation nice and smooth. When I removed the manual
assembly from my CRX I found out why the drivers window kept coming out of track.
It was due to the fact the the tracks and been with out grease for so long that the little rollers had
begun to degrade.
7: Slide the whole mess into the door. And bolts it up as shown in the picture. The motor will be facing relatively down.
8: Side the glass back in door and hook it up. It may be best to use a 12V power source to get the lower tack
into he same position as when you removed the window. Make sure you get to window in the middle of the rubber vertical tracks, this is
kind of tricky with just one person. An extra set of hands helps with this part.
9: Connect and run 2 wires through the door. I Routed the wires through the factory wiring sheath in the door jam. Then I pulled out the
grommet, cut a notch in it, and ran the wires on in. Black tape applied, nice and clean looking. To get a bit more working room you may want to remove that pin that prevents the door from swinging to far out. Once you get wire through the
grommet push as much as you can in, then snake your hand up behind the dash and grab a hold of the wire. I then ran the wire along the factory
harness, until I got over to the center console. Soldering is of course recommended.
** Note: on the passenger' side removing the glove box is about the only way you'll be able to get your paw around the wire. **
** On the drivers side power actuator it will have 4 wires, the passenger side has 2. Ignore the smaller black and blue wires on the drivers side. The reason for this, is that the drivers side has an Auto-down /up function. These wires
go to the sensor in the actuator that controls this function. **
10: Put door panels back on
11: Repeat steps 1-10 from the passenger side.
12: Remove the center console
13: Now comes the wiring. For my windows I took a tip from my dad and used a 12V
continuous source, that way I can roll the windows up/down with out the key. Nice if it starts to raining or something. Anyways, I know of an easy way of getting power around the console area. Under the drives dash just right of the fuse
box these is a large (5) wire connector. It has (2) Larger wires and (3) smaller wires. One of the 2 larger wires is
WHT/YEL and one is
is hot at all times, the
is hot when the key is in the ON position. This is part the ignition circuit.
You can tap into there however you wish. They way I did was to take a blade connector
crimped on my power wire and shoved it into the back of the large connector previously mentioned. I taped the wired to the factory loom. Now I have my power wire. I also took and added an inline
blade-style fuse just to be safe. I studied the wiring diagrams, but couldn't find the fuse/circuit. So I looked at what the power sunroof uses for a fuse(30A).
Now I need a ground wire, easy enough. On the metal mounting bracket for the radio/air assembly there is a bolt...Just connect a ring terminal with a wire to that and you're set.
14: The switch: You can use any type you want. For my switch I opted to use a GM replacement window switch. It was $14 from Auto zone, I got shafted and got stuck with the chrome switch. I wanted the black one but couldn't get
a hold of one. I tired to spray paint it black, but the damn things paint rubs off. The switch
assembly has 2 switches in one housing. On mine the switch has 6 terminals PWR/GND. left +/- and right +/- ... It should be wired like this ...
15: You can mount it anywhere you please. I personally put mine in the center console, right in front of the E-brake. It's mounted vertically right behind the shifter. It is
comfortably located in reach of both the driver and passenger.
Enjoy the power amenities that the rest of the
world could get stock in there CRX's and that the US got shafted from.