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Protecting the Land and the Future of ATVs   -   Remember, nature's enemy is not outdoor recreation, but poor recreation management.
 
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TRAIL TIPS

SIDE BURNNER ALCOHOL STOVE PLANS
From Gord Heins gheins@sympatico.ca. Some of the info and pictures are from http://zenstoves.net/ THIS COOL LITTLE STOVE IS MADE FROM MANY PLANS ADAPTED FROM DIFFERENT WEB SITES. STOVES CALLED JET STOVE, PROTON STOVE, PRESSURIZED ALCOHOL STOVE, AND MANY MORE.

Sideburner Jet stove - They are made with jets on their sides and the stove doubles as their own pot stand. A primer pan is needed, and would help ease lighting. It uses fuel that doesn't require complex pumps, high pressure, multiple gaskets and valves these stoves can be very light. They weigh no more than a few ounces, compared to a pound or more for the liquid fuel stoves.
Simplicity - Add the fuel and light a match, is generally all that's required to start stove. No pumping, priming or pre-lighting is required. These stoves can be working away long before traditional stoves are even assembled, let alone up and running.
Quiet - Gas stoves often sound like a jet engine. Once lit, they take off like a screaming banshee. Not exactly the sound one wants to hear when trying to enjoy the tranquility of the forest. Stove is so quiet they can't even be heard. Also no smell (great for hunting).
No Maintenance - With no moving or complex parts, stoves have nothing to breakdown.
Safety - Without the need to keep the fuel under high pressure, These stoves pose a significantly reduced danger of explosion or burning all your valuable gear.
Low Cost - Stoves can be made for pennies compared to the high cost of traditional stoves. Made from recycled cans and other cheap items, these stoves can be made cheaply and quickly.

Fuel - Alcohol as a fuel for camping is a far better option than the alternatives, such as gasoline (petrol), white gas, kerosene, or even pressurized butane or propane. The main advantage is the relatively harmless affect on nature in the event of a spill. Alcohol is water miscible unlike some other fuels. Lets face it: we all have spilled stuff before, It is fairly easily obtained from hardware stores look for denatured alcohol in the paint thinner section, in pharmacies look for rubbing alcohol, also sold as 'alcohol stove fuel', 'shellac thinner', 'solvent alcohol', or fondue fuel. Burner Construction

Tools needed

  • Marker to mark 2 pop can bottoms at 1" and 1 1/2".
  • Razor knife or similar to cut pop cans, and a strip out of the side of pop can about 1 1/2" x diameter of can.
  • High Heat Epoxy to glue top and bottom pop cans together.
  • Small pin to put more or less 24 holes around top of can.
  • Screw to put into the middle of top can for filler hole
  • Jar lid to set stove in
  • Alcohol, rubbing alcohol or methyl alcohol
Stove dimensions - For a larger stove make the top section 25 mm (1 in) high, the bottom section 35 mm (1 3/8 in) high, and the inner cylinder 45 mm (1 3/4 in) high. For a smaller stove make the top section 20 mm (3/4 in) high, the bottom section 25 mm (1 in) high, and the inner cylinder 35 mm (1 3/8 in) high.

you can lengthen or shorten these measurements to make taller or shorter stoves or to move the overlap point up or down. Just make sure to adjust the width of your inner wall if you are using one.

Marking Method - Take a card, and poke or drill two holes in it, marking the the height you chose earlier. Set the can you've been working on upright (bottom of can down) and place the card next to it. Use a marker and draw a line around can.

TOP AND BOTTOM - Using metal snips a knife or a good set of scissors, cut the bottoms off of 2 cans. Use fine sandpaper, steel wool or SOS pads to smooth out the edges, as they may be razor sharp.

Inner Wall Construction - Cut a rectangle out of the sidewall of a can to at least 1 3/4" (for stoves made of 12oz drink cans. Cut out your piece with sizzors. On the bottom make two cuts ¼" apart and bend the notches toward the outside of the tube to form your three weep holes.

Make sure that the inner wall is at least 3/8" taller than the height of the top section (or the section that will be fitted inside the other) for a snug fit. If the inner wall is too short and easily moves, your stove won't work.


Stretching - You can stretch the bottom can by forcing an unopened can straight down into your bottom section 1-2 times. The pressure of the trapped air in the section you are stretching should force it right off on its own. Should it become stuck, the easiest way to remove a stuck can from your stretcher is by heating it just a bit
Fuel port - On a pressurized Jet Stove a small sealable fuel port hole is needed with pressurized jet stoves. Sealing it is necessary to maximize pressure in the stove, avoid wasteful leaks and to prevent the possibility of ignition of fuel inside the stove. NOTE - Because of the size of this hole, (too small to safely vent and too large to work safely as a jet) it must be covered before lighting your stove. If not, it has the potential to blow apart your stove.
Drill out a hole centered in the concave depression of your can. The size of your hole depends on the method you choose to use to seal it (see below) You may want to start with a small hole and enlarge it with a round file or rasp, as larger bits may have problems staying true on the rounded surface of your stove.

Expoxyied Nut Method - Roughen up your nut and the area around the hole on the inside of the can sandpaper then clean with alcohol. After testing the hole with your screw, epoxy the nut with some J-B Weld and set up your can so that your bolt doesn't fall out before the epoxy hardens. Wait 1hour, carefully test to see if the bolt will thread or not. If it doesn't, try to fix it or start over.

Sheet metal Screw Method - This is what I recommend. Use a #12 tapered screw to screw directly into the stove.


Slits - You may cut 8 evenly spaced vertical slits in the side of the bottom (as shown below) Cut from the edge to as far as your cans will overlap or max to about 3mm from the shoulder of the can. Placing the slits on the bottom section, compared to having them on the top section, decreases the likelihood that the sealing epoxy will ignite from the flames (especially if you make a Side Burner stove).

You may need a shim to help line everything up just right.

Once you get the bottom section started into the top, you may use a block of wood and a hammer to carefully tap around the bottom section until it is seated where you would like it in the top section. If at any time the side wall of your bottom section folds or crimps, creating a potential leak, give up and make a new bottom section.

Epoxy Method - Carefully tape and test fit you inner wall and then sand the area where the ends will meet and clean with alcohol. Using your toothpicks, apply some J-B Weld to this area.

Options - Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker can be used in lieu of J-B Weld to seal your inner wall. Note: Using silicone or epoxy you will have to wait 1 to 2 hours fot things to set up before you can putt in the jets.

Press stove together and leave sit with a large book or weight on top. Leave for 1 to 2 hours
This is what you should have so far. Now you can install the jets


Jets - After stove is dry enough (about 1hour) you can put in the jet holes· The smaller the hole the higher the pressure and possibly better the air fuel mixture (better efficiency and performance). Place holes ½'" down from top. Anywhere from 24 to 32 evenly spaced holes should work. 24 evenly spaced holes in a circle around the outer rim is a good one to start with To drill or punch the holes, you have many options .Make sure that you use eye protection and drill, hammer, or push away.

  • Hobby Drill Method - Use drills (bits) from a hobby store with a pin vise or Dremel tool. 1/32" works good.
  • Push Method - Securely grab a needle with a pair of, vise grips, etc. You will only want a small portion of the needle to protrude from your gripper to decrease the chance of it breaking. Slowly puncture your can.
  • Thumb Method - Use a pushpin or thumbtack and your thumb. If you want smaller jets, don't push in all the way. You can also sharpen it to the size you need. Pin from crazy glue works good.
Primer dish - Take an aluminum disposable cookie pan or pie plate and cut it larger than the diameter of a soup can or tuna can or something else the size you would like. Form it around the can and trim down the edges to 1.5cm. you can use the bottom of a large can or jar lid.

Final Touches - Test fire your stove. and note that you may need to lower a pot to within an inch over the lit stove to get it to light all of the jets. As needed, sand and apply a bead of epoxy over any leaks and/or run a needle or drill bit (by hand) through any jets that didn't fire up like the ones next to it.

A wind break can also be built from a coffee can etc. , just make sure stove and pot fit inside, Drill a few holes in bottom for air.

Operation - It's hard to believe but this is all there is to it. One thing is, flames are hard to see out doors, so be carefull.

The fuel,(Alcohol) about an ounce is poured into the top hole and screw replaced. Drip a bit of the alcohol into the jar lid, and set stove in the middle of lid. Light the alcohol in lid, this will get things going. The flame on the outside of the stove causes the top half to heat up, when the outside is hot enough, the fuel starts to vaporize and mists out the sides This vapor is then ignited by the flame in the lid - all of this happens in about 20 seconds or less. Put on your pot of water and sit back.

It will only take 5 to 10 minutes to boil 4 cups of water.

 

Copywright 2002   *   New Hampshire ATV Club