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February 12, 2010

Critic-Turned-Cook Mulls Question: Worst Meal Ever?

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[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

A few days after showing up for the Master Chef casting call, I got together at Palace Kitchen with fellow reality show hopefuls to compare notes. We mostly knew each other by our Twitter handles.

"Aren't you Seattle Food Geek? (Also known as Scott Heimendinger.) And Salty Seattle (Linda Miller Nicholson), MarcSeattle as well as... hey, isn't that Serious Eats contributor Michael Natkin?"

In between bites of sublime bites of Spam—yes, housemade Berkshire pork Spam, served on creamy grits, a poached egg on top—the pleasant conversation focused on, what else, food.

One question stopped me cold. Marc Schermerhorn asked me, "What's the worst meal you've ever eaten?"

As a former critic, I'm used to being asked to name my favorite places or dishes that inspired awe, so this query caught me by surprise. I've been thinking about it since.

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From Slice

Papa John's Heart-Shaped Valentine's Pizza

"Pepperoni makes the pizza look red. Which is like a heart. A big, giant, greasy heart that's two ticks away from a coronary bypass."

Papa John's Heart Shaped Pepperoni Pizza

You know it's from PJ's because the little pepper is hanging out in the box. [Photographs: Robyn Lee]

And there it is. Papa John's is once again offering its heart-shaped Valentine's Day pizza. When Slice ordered it online earlier this afternoon it was part of a special: $14.99 for a one-topping, thin-crust heart-shaped pizza and a Cinnapie (prices may vary in your area). Note that the heart-shaped pizza is only available with PJ's thin crust.

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Talk!

Serious Efforts: Gluten-Free Cookies

From Recipes

Five Shreds Longevity Noodles for the New Year from 'Easy Asian Noodles'

20100211easyasiannoodleshelenchen.jpgThis year, February 14 marks the beginning of the Chinese New Year, this year being the Year of the Tiger, and to celebrate we'll be sharing a few recipes from Chinese cooking expert Helen Chen's newly released Easy Asian Noodles.

Easy Asian Noodles covers noodle preparations from all over the continent, from Singaporean curried rice sticks to Japanese udon, along with many of Chen's beloved Chinese noodle dishes.

In Chinese culture noodles are symbolic of long life and commonly served on special occasions. These stir fried Five Shreds Longevity Noodles are popular for birthdays and New Years celebrations and are a great intro into the world of wok-cooked noodle dishes. As is the case with all stir fries, it is important to have all of your ingredients prepped and ready to go since the cooking happens fast. This quick cooking technique is a great way to incorporate more fresh vegetables into your daily cooking routine. The snow peas, peppers, and bean sprouts in this recipe are basically flash cooked so that they keep all of their sweetness and crunch.

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From Recipes

French in a Flash: Watermelon Salad with Fromage de Chèvre Brulé

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[Photographs: Kerry Saretsky]

I am not at all opposed to themed food. Last year's Valentine's column was a traditional Coeur à la Crème, a heart of sweet cream surrounded in a sweet strawberry sauce. This year, my Cupid's arrow is watermelon salad with baby arugula, honey-balsamic syrup, and torched goat cheese—something pink, which may lead down the road to something blue if you play this Sunday night right.

The key to romance is to share a meal, but to not eat anything too filling—or too smelly (hence a salad, with no onions, no garlic). This salad is composed of planks of sweet pink watermelon, with baby arugula tucked gently in between the Napoleon layers, drizzled with a balsamic reduction sweetened with honey, and then topped with olive oil, fleur de sel, black pepper, and goat cheese, which you then set aflame with a kitchen torch until it boils and bubbles and turns soft and charred. It's magnificent—plus I just used the words "pink," "baby," "honey," and "aflame" all in one sentence to describe it. How much more romantic can you get?

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Talk!

Leftover Pulled Pork Ideas?

Leftovers: The Day's Stray Links

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From Recipes

Cook the Book: Black Cherry and Raspberry Kuchen

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[Photograph: Caroline Russock]

I like featuring recipes on Cook the Book that take advantage of ingredients that are in season since, as a rule, they taste better, are more readily available, and are generally less expensive. But every once in a while I come across a recipe that needs be shared even if it isn't the most seasonal. This Black Cherry and Raspberry Kuchen from The Grand Central Baking Book by Piper Davis and Ellen Jackson is one of those recipes.

Sure, it's the middle of February and the entire Northeast is blanketed in a layer of snow so deep that many of us are homebound and cherries and raspberries are certainly not at the height of their season. Regardless of these factors, I needed to make this lemon-glazed fruit-studded kuchen.

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Come on in 'The Kitchn'

Each week we round up our favorite posts and recipes from our friends at The Kitchn.

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This week, The Kitchn shows you how to make perfect bacon in the oven, with plenty of tips from readers. Also on the Kitchn: roast chicken, better bread crusts, washing dishes, and fluffy pancakes.

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What kind of chocolate do you prefer?

Photo of the Day: Knitted Sausage

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[Photograph: Stephanie Casper]

All the joy of packaged sausage in cuddly knitted plush form, for those who like plush food but not ones with faces on them. Available at scaper5's Etsy shop for $25 (along with other knitted meats). [via Coudal Partners]

Related
The Inner Workings of a Plush Meat Master
Gift Guide: For the Meat Lover
Grilled: Robert Bolesta

From Recipes

Dinner Tonight: Bucatini con Salsicce (Bucatini with Sausage)

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[Photograph: Blake Royer]

There are countless recipes out there involving tomatoes, sausage, and some kind of pasta. It's an Italian staple, and I've seen many varieties from region to region. But flipping through Lidia Bastianich's wonderful book Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy, I was drawn to this particular for bucatini con salsicce that used pickled peperoncini for the spicy kick. I knew I could trust the woman many might call the presiding Grandmother of Italian Cuisine.

Most recipes in search of spiciness call for the ubiquitous red pepper flakes (known variously as hot red pepper flakes, chili flakes, or crushed chili flakes), which are fine, but I happened to have a jar of pickled pepperoncini in my fridge itching to get used. Though they are Greek rather than the "Tuscan-style" the recipe calls for, they were pretty close. I loved the way they infused the sauce with a different kind of spiciness: bright and slightly briney. The addition of white wine, which is evaporated and absorbed into the sausage, gave the dish even more flavor and balance.

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From Recipes

The Secret Ingredient (Pastis): Pastis-Glazed Fish with Fennel Slaw

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[Photographs: Kerry Saretsky]

Pastis, an anise-flavored liqueur, is two-faced. It smells positively noxious out of the bottle, and yet tastes so absolutely subtle in cooking that if it were a person, it would have a split personality. Who knew that anything so bold out of a bottle could by so shy in a pan?

I first discovered Pastis on the jovial breath of my adoring grandmother, Mémé, and have been trying to force myself to like it ever since. To no avail. But it has absolutely always been around in my house, my mother having been born in Marseilles, in the heart of Pastis-drinking country. Thus, when I was at her house for the holidays, and our family descended upon us from France once again bearing bottles of duty-free Pastis, I had no choice but to give it a shot.

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Talk!

Pizza places in the Bay Area (California) ?

Killer Croquetas at Pasha in Chicago

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[Photograph: Michael Nagrant]

After a reviewing food for a few years I've adopted a few rules to live by, many postulated by others, but definitely confirmed by experience:

  • Never order sushi on Monday.
  • If I'm the only white dude in a Chinese restaurant, I'm probably in a good spot.
  • If a restaurant has a number in its name, it probably sucks.
  • Spectacular views = spectacularly mediocre food.
  • If a restaurant has more flat screens than a Best Buy showroom, they also have food on par with the vending machines near the Best Buy employee break room.

One axiom I've been thinking about adding to the list is that if a restaurant hosts live music regularly, you should order take out or stop for a bite before attending the show.

Because this rule was still in the consideration phase, I checked out Pasha, a restaurant in Chicago's West Loop owned by the popular local world music band, Veerasway and Red Light nearby if things got out of order.

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Vancouver 2010 Olympics: Top 10 Sips and Bites

In the run up to the 2010 Winter Olympics, Vancouver food blogger Melody Fury (Gourmet Fury) is dropping by to guide travelers to the city's hidden gems in a series of Top 10 Local Recommendations. These locations are easily accessible from Downtown (within walking distance or by public transit). The recommendations boast of the unique, international delights that this beautiful sea-to-sky city offers. —The Mgmt.

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Boneta [Photograph: Melody Fury]

Drinkeries housing premium liqueurs, a thoughtful wine list, and an extensive beer selection is a priority for many travelers and locals catching the Olympic festivities. After all, it's way more fun to mingle with the world than to feel cooped up in the hotel lounge.

The tricky part is finding a spot that serves equally palatable small-bites to accompany the drinks. This top 10 features the our best loved bars and lounges that serve tasty pre-dinner appetizers and late night munchies.

You may notice that Gastown pops up frequently. Read up on this historic neighborhood's founder, Gassy Jack, and you'll understand the concentration. Lastly, experience B.C. to the fullest by supporting our local wineries and breweries—you're in for a real treat.

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Video: 'Nightline' Highlights Skinny Chefs

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Chef Nate Appleman, before and after weight loss.

Last night's Nightline, ran a segment on chefs who have lost weight recently, namely Art Smith and Nate Appleman. Video, after the jump.

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Talk!

Blizzard Food

From Recipes

Cook the Book: Blowtorch Prime Rib Roast with Horseradish Cream

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[Photograph: Artisan Books]

I consider myself very lucky to have a butcher who not only knows his meat but gets as exited about my purchases as I do. When I was picking up the meat to make the Blowtorch Prime Rib Roast from Ad Hoc at Home by Thomas Keller, my butcher was absolutely beaming. "Is it a special occasion?" he asked. Indeed it was, but anytime I invest serious bucks on a nice piece of steak it is a special occasion. This was going to be a great dinner.

As luck would have it, the day I chose to make this prime rib just happened to coincide with a big snow storm. Being holed up in the house with a beautiful roast wasn't a bad place to be. However, the snow prevented me from having a blowtorch—I was planning on going out and purchasing one, but the snowfall was prohibitive. Improvisation would have to suffice.

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Video: Sausage Stylus for iPhone

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According to this poorly Google-translated article, South Korea's CJ Corporation has seen an uptick in sales for its snack sausage in the winter months because people have figured out they can use the meat stick as a stylus for their iPhone touchscreens. IPhone users in colder climes know all too well that you have to take off your mittens to use the dang thing. No more!

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Hot Topics: Super Bowl Recipes | Healthy and Delicious

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Today's Specials

Cakespy: Avatarts

A sweet treat wherein pop culture and Pop Tart collide sweetly, in a pocket-sized morsel perfect for smuggling into the theater and decked out in full movie regalia.
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Vancouver 2010 Olympics: Top 10 Grab and Go »

Weekend Giveaway: California Wine Club Membership »

    From the Serious Eats Flickr Pool