THE FRAGRANCE DIVA OF AMERICAS HEARTLAND

amanda feeleyMy guest AMANDA FEELEY is an artisanal perfumer based in Ames,  Iowa,  in America’s heartland.     She offers her unique,  hand-developed  perfumes via her company ESSCENTUAL ALCHEMY.     THE SPRAY CHEST is pleased to sample some of Amanda’s cleverly-titled perfumes and find out about her intuitive,  musical  compositional technique.

song of amesAF:  I’ve only been doing this since January 2010.    I really think my training as a musician has helped me in my perfume composition.    I had gone to school as a music major at Simpson College in Indianola,  Indianastudying Opera under Dr. Robert Larson.      We had to take classes in Theory,  Composition,   Harmony,  Counterpoint.     Now, the rules of Counterpoint are explicit and strict;      your music has to “go somewhere”;   you can’t leave your audience hanging     A seventh chord has to resolve,  for example.     You have to build strong chords.     Perfumery,  for me,  is similar.
counterpoint dr. robert larson

I remember,  I used to go to this little store in the mall called Garden Botanika.    They had a Perfume Bar,  where you could go and mix for yourself a custom perfume.      I loved it.   When they went out-of-business in the mid-90‘s,  I was so bummed.
Looking back,  I realize I was always a Perfumista;    I had wa-a-y more perfume than a teenage girl could ever wear in a lifetime.     I loved the way each scent was different,   each smelled differently on my skin   and each elicited different emotional reactions.

garden botanika logo

I remember I had this inexpensive perfume from Avon.   Actually,   it was two perfumes in one.   I think it was called something like FIRE AND ICE?       You were meant to wear them separately,   or blend them according to your mood    One was warming and spicy and extrovert;   the other was cooling and soothing and inviting.

fiery icy
I was really struck by the way how,  blended together,   they seemed to make an entirely new perfume.

lagerfeld sun moon and stars

I was a junior in high school when I discovered SUN, MOON AND STARS by Karl Lagerfeld.     It came in a beautiful,  cobalt-blue glass bottle,   with a golden cap,    laced with stars.    I loved it,   and it was one of the first “high end” perfumes I remember using.      Before that,   it had been more affordable,  but still loved,  things like  LOVE’S BABY SOFT,     ASPEN,    EX-CLAM-A-TION!   WIND SONG     STETSON for women,  Arden SUNFLOWERS       There was another,  a little more upscale,   from Victoria’s Secret,   I think it was VANILLA CARAMEL.
In college I just started wearing pure jasmin oil for a long time.

dana love's baby soft coty aspen
coty ex-cla-ma-tion! arden sunflowers

In December of last year,   my husband Kevin,   an avid blogger,  had noticed that a vegan perfumer was offering a Do-It-Yourself Perfumery Kit.      He asked me if I’d like it for Christmas?      Well,   would I!    It was like having that Garden Botanika Perfume Bar at my fingertips again.        He got it for me,     and I began mixing things.    With each mixture,  you were to wait a month to allow the oils to blend and meld.      I was pleasantly surprised when some of my creations really turned out pretty good.      We ordered another kit from this lady.      Some of the oils might have been synthetics,  but most were natural essences.    I was dazzled at the way these oils could yield me scents that smelled sophisticated,   like  something as high-end as SUN,   MOON AND STARS.

aftel,  mandy--   essence and alchemySpurred on,  I ordered Mandy Aftel’s book ESSENCE AND ALCHEMY,    and took her Level I correspondence course.     It came with your workbook and 12 essential oils.    They smelled incredible,   and my kids were,  like:  “Can we smell them,  too?”      And I was,  like:   “No!   No-one can touch these but Mom!”   [laughs.]   I wasn’t about to have,  say,   benzoin dripped all over the floor.
amanda and her four children

At one point in Mandy’s book,    I came to a fascinating chart,   from THE ART OF  PERFUMERY,    devised in the 17th century by a man named Septimus Piesse.    It showed the musical notes on the staff,       and,  according to Piesse,    each note on the scale corresponded to a scenting note   say,  jasmin.      And I had an epiphany    I thought to myself,  “Hey,  I already know how to do this!”

piesse,  septimus--  the art of perfumery drums of essential oils and absolutes

From there,  I just started ordering oils,   absolutes and concretes,     mixing things up,   and began taking copious notes in my leather journal.

lumberjack statueDLB:    I’m loving this scent of yours called LUMBERJACK MAN.     It’s a gorgeous balsamic woody,   with delicate floral and ambered hints.     It smells oaky and soft,   delicately sweet,   slightly turpenoidal
kevin and teagan

AF:    Thank you.    I’ll tell you about how the name came about:     My husband Kevin is a big coffee person,   and in that area has a remarkable nose himself.     Whenever one of my perfumes had done ageing,   I’d go to him and say “Smell this.”        On this one,  Kevin thought a moment and said,  “That one smells.    like Christmas.    It smells like a forest.     It’s manly”
And I interjected,  “What,  you mean,  like a lumberjack?”
He said,  “Yeah.   It’s. a Lumberjack Man.”

monty python lumberjack sketch

“Like Monty Python’s Lumberjack?”      So that’s what we called it:    LUMBERJACK MAN.     It is manly,   but it’s got a touch of sensitivity     that’s the ylang-ylang     You know,   “he’s a sensitive man     He chops down trees”

DLB:   Wears high-heels?    Loves to press wild flowers?

AF:   [laughs.]     Manly,  but sensitive,  too.

kama sutra

DLB:     Tell me about this scent,   KAMA.     It is really seductive intoxicating    hay-ey and reedy,   with wonderful spicy and camphoraceous notes  a luscious base of citrus and sandalwood

taj mahal

AF:    I’d been thinking about India.     And all these elemental substances which had been used for thousands of years

DLB:   Yes,  KAMA does smell alluringly “ancient”.   venerable.

AF:   I started blending these oils    intuitively mixing them.     Still learning,  of course,  I told myself that even if it didn’t turn out perfectly,   I still would have learned something.
The name came about when,   one evening at dinner,   I dabbed some on my throat.      I’d been considering calling it ODE TO INDIA.      But at dinner    we’d had a little beer or wine      Kevin could not take himself away from this fragrance.      “What does it smell like?”     I asked him.

lovers

“It smells like”   he said,  “like I could just stare at you over dinner all evening.      and then enjoy you later”
And I thought,  Oh!   I guess I’ll call it KAMA,  then.      It’s too bad the kids are still awake.   Nudge-nudge,   wink-wink    [laughs].

jazz combo
DLB:    Tell me about this scent,   SAX AND VIOLETS.     It’s a very tender,   comforting,  lavender-based scent,   with delicate,  grassy undertones.    A very subtle spice note delicately echoing the natural spicy hints of the lavender     Nurturing,  refined.   intimate.

AF:   It’s Number Six in my compositional output.      One of my earlier perfumes.    Again,   it’s based on the musical idea that perfumer’s notes go together with each other like musical notes.    Mandy Aftel’s course also gave me insight into how different types of notes   like florals    should blend together.      I also approached blending by considering notes as “colors” on an artist’s colorwheel.   literally assessing angles of compatibility between notes the way a painter chooses colors.
chevreul's color wheel

DLB:   I love,   in SAX AND VIOLETS,  that delicate   what is it?     basil or anise-like note supporting the “edges of the lavender.

AF:    Tarragon.

tarragon

DLB:   It’s fabulous.

AF:   My husband was a jazz major   a trumpet guy.     Whereas my musical concentration was classical,   he was always into the avant-garde.     Kevin always appreciates my more jaunty or angular or less-traditional  compositions.    To his nose,   this new perfume smelled like “ a dreamy jazz combo,  playing in a velvet-lined room,   with a vase of purple flowers at the center.”
purple flowers
DLB:    I love this other scent of yours as well,   BLUE LEMONADE?    A vibrantly juicy,   tangy,  mouthwatering  study in lemon and lemon-like notes

blue lemonade
AF:    That one is fun   It’s Number 10.     It was conceived in early spring  That April had been SO drearyso rainy    cold still.     I really wanted something cheerful and uplifting.      Upon ageing the scent,  I noticed that it was pleasant,    but perhaps a bit astringent   maybe too “Mr. Clean”.   blue chamomile I thought:   What can I do to take it in another direction?    Intuitively I added some blue chamomile to the recipe and aged it another month.   And  it was perfect.   I really grooved on it.     It’s like:   lemons and ginger and tangy and “yum!”      but with a “blue tang”.      It became my BLUE LEMONADE.

DLB:    Then we come to this scrumptious gourmand of yours,   ORANGE CHOCOLATE ROSES.    Now this is truly a delicious,  sweet,  nearly edible scent    marvelous.    Sweet chocolate,  with tangy,  fruity nuances.
chocolate truffles
AF:    This is a scent from my Decadent Chocolate line.

mandy aftel From Mandy Aftel,   I obtained a Cacao fragrance from her Chef’s Essences collection.      It smells so yummy!    Like some really good chocolate you’ve gotten your hands on.      I  started blending notes with the cacao    My goal was to give the impression of actual chocolate candies,    for example,  an authentic Chocolate Mint Truffle,     a Ginger-Mint Truffle     or a Chocolate Hazelnut Infusion.    The fragrance you’re sampling is my ORANGE CHOCOLATE ROSES.      I envisioned it as a delicate chocolate “flower”.     It’s my Number 19.

DLB:   How many fragrances do you offer today?

AF:   Around thirty.     And I always have ideas brewing in my head for new scents.

DLB:   What inspires you?

greek muses

AF:    Sometimes it’s music     or an artwork.    or a picture     Or maybe it’s an abstract thought I think of.     It’s “The Muses”,   you know?     It’s almost as though I don’t decide anything;     The Muses really direct my hand.     I might have an initial idea,     but I will let it incubate until the inspiration really hits me.     My first twelve fragrances were more intuitively built,   but now that I am gaining in experience,    I’m starting to blend with more confidence.
I’ll jot some proposed notes down in my journal     and then I’ll wait,  you know,  to see what materializes.

DLB:   Any scents you’re developing now?

AF:   Yes,   an “absinthe” perfume.

vintage french absinthe poster
I loved,  in college,  studying about the 19th and early 20th Centuries,    with their huge,  passionate outpouring of art,  literature and music.    The French art songs,  which were “impressionistic” in the same way as the canvases the Impressionists were painting.    french art songThe way a Monet,  like that music,   was so emotional.        I was fascinated in the way all the poets of that period were all  drinking absinthe.    I thought,   What is it about this substance that seemed to invoke the Muses?
monet massif de chrysanthemum

I read up on this bohemian culture.  How they were augmenting the absinthe with opium   laudanum     and painters like Van Gogh were dangerously getting some of that lead paint into their mouths

winsor & newton paints,  1890 van gogh--   night cafe
Couple those maddening influences  with the emotional upheaval of that period    and you have some truly amazing
artworks.

german students smoking opium

laudanum
I’m an astrologer of many years,  as well,   and I remain fascinated at the astrological influences that reigned during that particular artistic efflorescence,  which also yielded much new technology,   like the steam engine.    People almost went crazy for a while   there was this gay revelry    people had the apocalyptic idea that,  “Well,  the world’s coming to an end,  so I might as well have a stiff drink.”

renoir: moulin de la galette

I was finally able to get the actual ingredients the oils   that went into absinthe.    Found this old absinthe recipe from Pernod,  in this old encyclopedia of alcohol.

absinthe pernod

absinthe preparationsI’ve never drunk absinthe    authentic absinthe has long been illegal in America,    although that’s changing now.      But the concoction that I mixed sure smelled like I thought it should-    it was even that pale,  strange green color!     Knowing that my notes were all authentic and natural,   I even toyed with drinking it.    I asked another perfumer if that were possible.  She said,  “Yes,   actually you could.     but don’t tell any of your customers that if you’re putting it up for sale!”

DLB:   Amanda,  how can we buy your perfumes?

AF:    You can Friend me on FACEBOOK,     and on one of my Tabs you’ll see the ArtFire Shop.        Or you can go directly to my website,     http://www.esscentualalchemy.com
I’ve begun selling my perfumes in a beautiful glass decanter,  which contains a glass applicator within.   In fact,  if you buy the larger decanter,    I will refill it with the jus when it is empty.    I’m very “green” that way.

DLB:   Plans for the future?

AF:   I want to have a real,  bricks-and-mortar store here in Ames    in which I sell all my perfumes    teach classes   offer elegant “sniffas” to guests.

THE SPRAY CHEST is thrilled to recommend this very talented newcomer in the world of artisanal natural  perfumery.       Amanda is definitely a rising talent you’ll want to watch.

About david lincoln brooks

perfumery---3D art
This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.

14 Responses to THE FRAGRANCE DIVA OF AMERICAS HEARTLAND

  1. David!

    Thank you so much for you many kind words and your elegant interview! Im so honored.

    Many Blessings,
    Amanda

  2. dabney says:

    A very very very NICE review, both of you!!

  3. david lincoln brooks says:

    Thank YOU, Amanda, for a great interview.

    Thanks, dabney for your lovely comment. Please check back with us at THE SPRAY CHEST.

  4. Pingback: Interview with The Scent Chest « Esscentual Alchemy

  5. morgenbard, aka Morgen Feeley says:

    This is great! I am so happy :) I like Melange the best, but it wasnt mentioned here :(

    morgenbard <3

  6. Peggi says:

    Wow! I loved reading this interview! I almost feel like I know you! Great looking family, by the way!

    So far, the only perfume I can use without a massive headache is Calvin Kleins Eternity. I think its my signature smell. :-)

    I would love to try a different fragrance and will definitely check out your studio!

    My best wishes for a great success!!

  7. Pingback: Tweets that mention THE FRAGRANCE DIVA OF AMERICA’S HEARTLAND | the spray chest.com -- Topsy.com

  8. Charna says:

    What a great article highlighting a great perfumer. Amanda is incredibly talented and Im so glad to see her getting the recognition she deserves! I enjoyed reading her inspirations for blending and one gets a clear idea of her creative talent.
    I laughed out loud when reading the scents worn by Amanda as a teen. Very similar to my own teenage years . . . except for the ex.cla.mation cologne! That was truly the worst smell EVER! My whole high school reeked of ex.cla.mation . . . bad scent memories :)
    Charna

  9. Ellen M. says:

    Wonderful interview I love hearing about what inspires those who create perfumes!

  10. chayaruchama says:

    I just saw this !
    What a wonderful interview with the Sweet One ..
    Terrific, you two.

  11. david lincoln brooks says:

    Thank you, Ida, beshertelah. More to come.

  12. David Cobb says:

    I agree with the post above and I will find more information from google.

  13. Suchmaschine says:

    Super-Duper site! I am loving it!! Will come back again taking you feeds also, Thanks.
    Hello. Great job. I did not expect this on a Wednesday. This is a great story. Thanks!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>