The revamped Men's Department at Bloomingdale's is almost finished, and a major component was revealed last week as a new shop-in-shop for Ralph Lauren made its début. The cluttery, sprawling Polo shop that lived in the store's basement had been one of the designer's largest in-store boutiques anywhere, and sported a combination of his "country store" look and the more elegant ornate dark wood décor that was originally inspired by his Rhinelander Mansion flagship at Madison Avenue and 72nd Street that opened more than 20 years ago.
These styles have been dutifully duplicated in department stores and Polo Shops countless times in the ensuing years, so when it was time to redo the space at Bloomingdale's, a refreshing left turn was taken that could signal a sweeping new look for Lauren at retail. The space has been moved south the the 59th street side of the floor, and an exclusive, exterior entrance is being built. Gone are the elaborate carvings and oriental carpets. There is still lots of wood, but now it's present in sleek, modern panels accented with brushed steel and stone floors. The product, meticulously placed as always by Polo's roving team of merchandisers, once carefully tucked and squeezed into every available crevice and garnished with all manner of vintage gear is now allowed room to breathe on shelves and tables where customers can actually examine and handle it without disturbing an artfully composed display. Reportedly, the new look is based on a recently opened Ralph Lauren store in Moscow, though it ironically recalls the second, more contemporary Madison Avenue flagship (once known as Polo Sport) across from the Mansion that was demolished last year to make room for a larger, more typical Edwardian style building being constructed to serve as a Women's store. Regardless of the inspiration, it's a welcome update from what had become a clichéd visual style. Also gone is the word "Polo" from the signage, which now reads simply "Ralph Lauren". While the word naturally remains on labels, the space now includes the designer's more contemporary and expensive Black Label men's line, a new addition since the renovation. Clearly, the more modern upper brand is now setting the pace.
In other Bloomingdale's news, The street level renovations have been completely finished only to reveal that much of what was once the Men's Store has been given over to Women's jewelry and accessories! Presumably, the lost space will be recovered downstairs when Ralph's former digs (now behind plywood) are reconfigured to flow with the rest of the department. For now, underwear and pajamas exist uneasily next to designer sportswear lines.
Also new is a main floor boutique for fabled British shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser which the store is touting as the label's first in-store shop at an American department store.
Uh, yeah, if you conveniently forget about the one that Bergdorf Goodman operated for decades before the company opened its own shop on 57th street.
Oops.
Or is Bergdorf's not a department store anymore?
Ralph Lauren Men's at Bloomingdale's, 1000 Third Avenue at 59th Street, East Side
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