Sometimes we have to wonder how it is that Rogan Gregory won the big CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize for emerging designers? After all, if he has the wherewithal to orchestrate the opening of his second Manhattan boutique and a special preview at Barney's Co-op of his Target collaboration all on the same weekend, how could be possibly need cash prizes and mentoring? He seems to have things well in hand.
Much has been made lately of the cooperation between Barneys and Target for this preview, but it's notreally that surprising, and nobody seems to remember that last year, a similar event took place at Opening Ceremony for the Proenza Schouler/Target collection. Barneys is a natural choice because they have been
Rogan's biggest supporter since his label started. Today, Co-op customers were not remotely dismayed by the $15 to $45 price tags on the capsule collection. The dreary weather may have kept it from being a stand in line and wait for insanity event like the Kate Moss/Topshop launch, and the Co-op was busy but not chaotic this morning at 10:45 AM, with shoppers loading their arms despite a three-item limit (which may or may not have been enforced). It appeared that customers were also receiving special Barneys/Target canvas totes with their purchases. Considering that the line will be available at Target stores all over America in a few days, it would have been silly to find a feeding frenzy at Barneys. As for the collection, the less expensive fabrics adapted well to Rogan's stripped down aesthetic, and look well constructed for the lower prices. Barneys Co-op customers will totally get it, but we wonder if it might be too subtle or minimal for the real Target crowd?
After Barneys, we shot dowtown to the new Rogan boutique that opened yeterday at the Bowery and Bond Street. By now, with the Bowery's gentrification in full swing, complaining about it is utterly beside the point.
In typically stealthy mode, Rogan has done his best to obscure his shop from the street, using the subtlest of signage. He has replaced the 'r's in the 'Bouwerie Lane Theatre' sign that remains on the building with his own blocky stencil script, making the store, like his Tribeca shop, pretty easy to miss. The interior is painted totally black with dramatic spotlighting which makes the store look closed from outside. Once inside, the theatrical lighting is striking, particularly on a gloomy day, but often makes it hard to examine the goods with spotlights glaring in your face at odd angles and much of the store in dark shadow. In the back, there is an elevated loft, which when we visited, held three employees who seemed to be folding things in utter darkness, which just seemed creepy.
As for the goods, Rogan has expanded beyond his signature denim, into more refined dresses, blouses with more tailored jackets and trousers for men in addition to printed tee shirts and jeans, all still in a minimal black, white and gray palette.
The store has an alluring, mysterious atmosphere, but if you're looking to do serious shopping, bring a flashlight.
Rogan for Target Go International at Barneys Co-op Madison Avenue only through May 11
Rogan Bowery, 330 Bowery at Bond Street, East Village