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The winter man is a 'drunge'

A model wears a creation part of Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2011/2012 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 15, 2011. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)
A model wears a creation part of Dolce & Gabbana men's Fall-Winter 2011/2012 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Saturday, Jan. 15, 2011. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

MILAN (AP) -- Next year's winter man is part dandy, part grunge. In a word, he's "drunge."

Dolce&Gabbana; best pulled off the new fall-winter 2011-2012 style by pairing posh velvet tuxedos with distressed jeans.

During the four-day preview showings this week, others took the same route.

DSquared's Caten twins fancified the worker's apron, turning it into a silk vest, while John Richmond trimmed his macho styles in dainty fur. Gucci evoked the 1970s with rock star fashion icon Rod Stewart in mind.

All in all, the winter season marked a return to a classic urban look. Gone was the bulky ski apparel that had taken over the runway in recent seasons, to be replaced with bigger than life overcoats, double breasted sheepskins, duffel coats and blazers.

The tailored suit this round has a smaller jacket worn either with narrow or wide pants. In some cases the hemline is short and in wool. Prada featured knickerbockers.

The favorite fabrics are wool and velvet, with silk for shirtwear. Lurex and other sparkling fabrics add to the precious feel of the collections.

There is a heavy use of fur for next year's chilly weather either for teddy bear coats, classic sheepskin jackets, or trimming on wool outerwear.

Where designers really go to town is with the winter palette. Intense shades of orange, blue green, yellow and purple for outerwear as well trousers and sweaters, tell the tale of a man who enjoys basking in the limelight. The brightest collection of all was by Raf Simons for the minimalist Jil Sander label.

Aside from these strokes of colorful genius, the designers offered an urban palette of gray, black and occasionally white.

Shirtwear plays a big part in these dandified collections. In colorful shimmering silk it often does away with the need for a tie. Bow ties for eveningwear are still a must.

Next winter's traveler is into luxurious leather hand luggage -- small duffel bags, boxy suitcases, and double handled computer bags. Nylon backpacks are out of the question.

Footwear combines classic with casual -- at time pointed shoes with laces and ankle boots. Running shoes are not up to snuff.

Taking cue from the models on the runway, the typical "drunge" is a guy in his twenties, closely shaven, with a slightly disheveled hairstyle. Definitely no gym rat, he likes his jacket cut close to the body and his denims low slung.

The fashion pack next moves on to Paris, where the French will be showing their take on next winter's menswear, followed by Parisian couture for the ladies.

(Mainichi Japan) January 20, 2011

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