Speeding at upwards of 300km an hour, the luscious emerald green shades of the rice paddies are a blur as I’m whisked on Japan’s famed Shinkansen or Bullet train. I’m off to the ancient imperial city of Kyoto. Having seen the stunningly shot (but controversial, especially to the Japanese as it was seen as stereotypical) Memoirs of a Geisha and Sofia Coppola’s “Lost in Translation”, I have always anticipated my visit to this city of temples and shrines.

After a brisk trip of just over 2 hours, I arrive to Kyoto Station and am taken for lunch at Okina, one of the many restaurants in this city that specialize in tofu. Kyoto, having been a city of religion, of Buddhists and Shinto shrines, is famed for their many vegetarian restaurants, from soba (buckwheat) noodles, gluten, yuba (soy milk skin) to tofu. This modest restaurant has been run by the same family for generations and we’re seated in a westernized tatami room (with a lowered level beneath the table for your legs so you don’t have to kneel and cramp your legs like the traditional rooms). A set menu of pickles, rice, red miso (from Nagoya) soup and simple poached tofu is placed in front of us. Soft creamy squares of freshly made tofu are immersed in a simple bath of hot water infused with konbu (dried kelp). It’s taken out of the hot broth and we eat it with the simple garnishes of minced daikon, finely chopped green onions and a drizzle of fine soy sauce. Plain but something zen about this dish, and yet so delicious.

After lunch I walk down the main street of Arashiyama (the western district of Kyoto), bypassing famed Japanese sweet shops filled with mochi (sweet glutinous rice dumplings), ceremonial tea ceremony specialties to delicate sponge cakes rolled and stuffed with creams to bean pastes. I walk by soba (buckwheat) noodle shops, for what this city has become known for as well as various shops selling stunning embroidered kimonos to hawking shrine charms. I cross the Yamagawa River and am brought to the riverside waiting room of Hoshinoya Kyoto, where I am staying for the next few days. The ryokan’s own fleet of wooden and glass boats take us 15 minutes slowly down the river to the stunning Hoshinoya Kyoto, an intimate 25 room inn, perched on the waterfront hillside. Hoshinoya Kyoto, opened only last December, was formerly a traditional ryokan from over 100 years ago, belonging to the same family for several generations. The Hoshino Group, which owns another famed inn and onsen (hot spring) near Tokyo, took over the property and has transformed it into a tranquil paradise of traditional architectural design, with contemporary tatami interiors and western comforts (like internet, espresso machines, iPod docked stereos…but no television thank god!). The breathtaking gardens are worth the stay itself as well as experiencing the zen nature of this magnificent oasis. I have arrived to certainly one of the most beautiful settings I have ever experienced and could easily find myself chanting by the time I leave. The Japanese loves their bathing rituals and it’s certainly noticed by the size of the bathrooms, complete with a glassed-in shower stall and a traditional yellow cedar soaking tub. The bedroom has comfortable futons (with incredibly comfy duvets and pillows) which are set upon a raised platform (for us Westerners, I’m assuming), and fitted with individual Nespresso machines, great atmospheric lighting and sliding modern designed shoji screens. The closets come with custom designed lounge wear and pyjamas for the guests to walk around the inn, which also is part of the relaxed mode of the atmosphere. The living room is a beautiful tatami room, with its traditional alcove and ikebana flower arrangement, shoji screens and clean designed lighting fixtures. I’ve been to many beautiful hotels around the globe but this is certainly one I’ve never experienced with its great design, serenity and peaceful landscaping, scenery and atmosphere.

Dinner that night is in the two level restaurant, made up of intimate rooms divided by vaulted shoji screens. I’m placed in the main level bar, which surrounds the soba making counter, the featured specialty of the menu. My kaseiki menu that night is a splendid array of dishes featuring local Kyoto specialties. Delicate fresh steamed yuba is placed in front of me, so I can gently dip it into the dipping sauce of mild dashi, mirin and soy with minced ginger and green onions. Pike eel is lightly tempura battered and is dipped into Tibetan salt with a squeeze of yuzu. The sunomono is moist Japanese crabmeat, enrobed with mild Kyoto spinach set into a puddle of delicate rice vinegar, not the harsh stuff we’re so used to at home. Enoki mushrooms, gently tossed with chrysanthemum petals are garnished with fine shreds of bonito while perfectly seared slices of duck breast (at room temperature) come slightly sweetened in a sublime light marinade sweetened by mirin. Beautifully marbled Kyoto beef is garnished with a hint of Tibetan salt, Japanese mustard and the wonderful grilled sweet chilies, set upon colourful autumn hoba leaves. I’m fascinated and mesmerized by the soba chef, who makes his dough (80% buckwheat to 20% wheat flour) with almost a religious-like ritual, with his kneading and impressive rolling, folding techniques and ending with such accurate cutting with the traditional soba knife and wooden blocks…to precise 1.5mm measurements. From tea ceremonies to soba making, these are serious art forms and taught with focus and strict seriousness by masters of their ancient crafts.

Content, I head back to my room of solitude, with only the sounds of the quiet river and the autumn crickets, so contrasting to the sounds of my Georgia Street.

I awaken to early bird chirpings and decide to take a traditional Japanese bath in the cedar tub. I love the scent of the fragrant cedar as I walk into the shower room. Instead of overly perfumed bath gels we normally get in Western hotels, we’re supplied with large tea bags filled with fragrant country herbs and flowers to infuse the bath water. It is a ritualistic experience. 

Breakfast is brought to my room and is set out kaseiki style. Having declined the choice of a Western selection (omelet, sausages etc), I opt for the wonderful Japanese breakfast of a nabe (casserole) of tofu and vegetables braised in a dashi broth, lightly sweetened by a corn puree, grilled freshwater fish, pickles, tamago (the Japanese styled rolled egg omelet) and steamed brown rice. Certainly healthy and wished I could eat this at home!

I’m invited to partake in one of Hoshinoya’s cultural classes and experience another ritual, the incense ceremony. I am introduced to Yoko, who like all the staff at Hoshinoya, wear many hats (I see her later that evening serving guests). I try and kneel gracefully like Yoko on the tatami mat but my North American clumsiness has me sitting awkwardly…thinking that I have to get back into yoga when I get home.

The private class has me learning about the history and importance of incense, it’s fragrant woods and resins to the rituals of building the ash around the burning charcoal into a peak in the incense cup. There’s even a special set of tools for this ceremony which gets me thinking how these were even developed…one for building the ash mound, one for pressing the mound, one with a dove feather to delicately clean around the rim of the ceremonial bowl, to special tweezers to pick up the valuable pieces of the aromatic wood. These are not the smoky, toxic joss sticks I’ve seen at the various temples in Asia, or the overly-perfumed pressed cones you get back home, but lightly scented resin woods (the size of your baby finger nail), that is placed on a micro-thin dime-sized glass plate, set atop the hot ash mound. I’m totally entranced by the experience.

I boat back into Arashiyama and take in one of the famed Kyoto rickshaw rides where I’m introduced to Masa, who speaks perfect English (I find out he’s an international business student in Connecticut) and I climb onto his pristine stainless steel and black-canopied rickshaw. I hope he can pull me around, after all the dining I’ve been having since arriving, but he say’s I’m nothing compared to some of the tourists he’s encountered. It’s a hot, humid morning and I question him as I’m sure there’s better ways of getting student tuition but he seems to enjoy his work and it does keep him in shape. He pulls me through along the scenic riverbank, down narrow alleys admiring the classic Japanese styled homes with their ceramic tiled roofs and stylized gardens. We pass numerous shrines and temples and an amazing bamboo forest. I’m let off at the entrance of the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Tenryu-Ji Temple (Temple of the Heavenly Dragon). This large, historic temple consists of various buildings, dates back to 1339 but because of several fires over the centuries, most of the current building are from the Meiji Period (1868-1912) but I’m most impressed with the classical Sogenchi Garden, which was originally started in the 14th century.

I take a taxi to the eastern part of the city where I meet my culinary friend Hiroko Sugiyama, who resides in Seattle but fortunately is in Kyoto at the same time. She has spent the last few days attending a master tea ceremony class and has the day free to show me around. Throughout the afternoon, we walk through the narrow streets of the old city as she showcases some of the most famous shops in the area. These are specialty shops that are renowned for their particular products, from Japanese chili spices to teas to calligraphy to chopsticks (yes, a whole shop dedicated to hand crafted chopsticks!). We walk through a couple of the chain department stores and I’m so impressed with the quality of their food floors, which make Harrods look like the pauper of stores. The Japanese command the best of the best...which also goes along with the various high price tags! 

We walk through Nishiki Market, which is a 4 block long arcade of Japanese food shops, from pickles, rice crackers to gluten to seafood specialties. We enter Aritsugu, the famous shop renowned for their hand forged knives, hand crafted copper pots and nabes to serious kitchen ware. I’m blown over by the prices, but these are serious quality knives. I end up purchasing a handcrafted copper ginger and daikon grater which they hand engrave your name on the handle. Impressive!

After a long afternoon of window-shopping, Hiroko decides I should experience a Japanese public bath and we head to one of the oldest in the city. It’s an experience as one takes off their shoes before entering the building and then you enter the separated change rooms and baths. The various pools vary in warmth, from hot to hotter, with an iced cold plunge pool to get your circulation going…which I find out accidentally!

Feeling totally relaxed, we head out of the bath house famished and head to a local izakaya to have yakisoba (fried noodles) and okonomiyaki, which is like a cross between a pizza and a thick pancake, filled with meat, seafood and vegetables, smothered with sickly-sweet tonkatsu sauce and Japanese mayonnaise. Content, I head back to Hoshinoya and to my futon.

The next morning, my Japanese breakfast arrives punctually at my requested time at 8am. So impressed that they can lay out the multi-dish meal (with soup, rice, vegetables, casserole, fruit…yes it’s breakfast!) with everything steaming hot and each in their own beautiful dish, considering they have to walk from the restaurant, through the gardens up to my separate tatami cottage.

Today, I head with my friends to Miyamaso. This is a special pilgrimage as this special ryokan has only 4 guest rooms and can take only about a handful of dining guests at a sitting…and one has to be introduced or invited. So as a guest of my friend Hiroko, I’m honoured. 

We’re driven about 1 ½ hours north of Kyoto, through a narrow (mainly single lane!) and extremely windy road up through a spectacular mountain pass covered with beautiful Japanese cedar trees. We pass farm villages of a bygone era, with their ceramic tiled roofs peaking through the mountain mist. Situated at the foot of a small wooded valley, Miyamaso is a secluded inn that has been in the family for nearly a century and is famed for their regional cuisine foraged from the surrounding forest and lakes. 

The traditional tatami guest rooms are located alongside a tranquil brook (where fresh carp is kept for the kitchen), while the main ancient lodge sits opposite facing the heavily forested rustic gardens filled with pines, cedars, cherry and persimmon trees with the dramatic mountains in the back drop. This is how I have always pictured the Japanese countryside.

We’re taken to the inner entrance to sign our names with a traditional ink brush (we write in calligraphy so I use my Chinese name) in the guest book, then we’re welcomed with the ubiquitous tea ceremony. Before arriving, Hiroko has taught me the important etiquette of receiving and holding the teacup and the way to kneel and bow to the hostess. We’re then taken to our private tatami room where we are seated around our chef’s private kitchen which features a grill and burner, both fuelled by the intense Japanese wood charcoal.

We start with a hoba leaf parcel (filled with fresh gingko nuts enrobed with Kyoto red miso paste) set atop an individual charcoal burner. The rich sublime sweet miso contrasts the simple soft nut, which has a texture similar to the fresh chestnuts in season. We’re then introduced to a sashimi of carp (fresh from the pond outside) and it’s buttery julienned skin, which we dip into a sancho pepper infused ponzu. These two first dishes are eaten with rustic chopsticks carved  from the wild chestnut trees outside and for the rest of the meal, they are exchanged for more formal pair. This changing symbolizes the changing style of cuisine from the wild rustic to the more traditional refined style.

As we’re eating, chef brings out a platter of fresh maitake (like a large cluster of small oyster mushrooms) and hotetaki mushrooms (which look like a broom head) and places them on the grill. The soup course (futamono) is a luscious kobacha pumpkin puree garnished with a tender morsel of pumpkin and a drop of Japanese mustard.

The steamed course (koiyawan) is a succulent delicate chestnut custard, layered with a mild sauce of dashi, kombu and shoyu.

Next comes a quadrangled bento box featuring marinated icuchi (boar’s mouth) mushrooms with chrysanthemum petals, konnyaku with fried tochinomi, dried sweet fish and a baby fresh water shrimp in the shell, a large boiled peanut and an unusual egg yolk, marinated in miso (looking like a candied kumquat), plus the kounomono (pickles)

A steamed fillet of Biwa lake fish has garnishes of sancho, mizu, and ginger flower, set in a beautiful coral coloured bowl covered with a kuzu leaf.

One of the highlights, especially during this time of season, is a special broth infused with matsutake (pine) mushrooms, mizuna, yuzu and grilled unagi (eel). This course is called hashiarai

Also another seasonal highlight is sugi-yaki, a cedar parcel grilled atop charcoal, stuffed with fresh water ayu fish which has been marinated in soy, miso and mirin

A soft lotus root dumpling sits in a grilled maitake (which we saw earlier) mushroom broth

Like formal Chinese meals, rice is served at the end, but here we’re treated to a special dish of freshly harvested rice cooked with raw seasonal chestnuts…love the natural sweetness of the nuts contrasted with the simple rice

For dessert, an akebi jelly (the unusual purple tree which looks like a pepino, but the skin is inedible and the interior is like jelly), with mountain grape sorbet and frozen heavy cream

The mignardise is a mochica dusted with soy bean powder and kinako stuffed with soy bean

As I expected, Miyamaso is a revelation to the Kaiseki style. It is an education and an experience that has made me appreciate this traditional fine art of cuisine.

I leave Kyoto having experienced only a fraction of its customs and beauty and long for my next visit.

Next, the southern island of Kyusho and Fukuoka for an agricultural tour.

I’m flying some 34,000 above the Bering Sea on Japan Airlines Flight 17 bound for Tokyo. This is my first time to the ancient city of Edo, the capital city of The Land of the Rising Sun. I’m wishing to tuck into the airline’s kaiseki dinner but they’ve run out so I get the Chinese meal of spiced chicken, bok choy and rice...still comforting!

We arrive at Narita, one of Asia’s most important hub and as I expected, as with Japanese efficiency, I go through customs and immigration and baggage in probably record time, more than any other airport I’ve ever encountered. 

As I’ve been told, Japan is expensive…taxis fetch some $200 plus to drive to central Tokyo. I opt for the comfortable “Limousine” Bus service, which is a reasonable $36. I’ve always admired the graciousness and politeness of the Japanese and am humoured as the ground transportation attendants bow gently as the bus departs. I could never imagine this in North America…anywhere for that matter but in the land of “Lost in Translation.”

It’s Sunday and the traffic is pretty well non-existent and the bus whisks us to central Tokyo in a matter of an hour. I arrive to the lower lobby entrance of the new Shangri-la Hotel, and am welcomed by the tranquil water features and the stunning artwork and chandeliers…impressive considering it’s a lower parkade entrance…but it has a slight resemblance to the Vancouver Shangri-la property, which also has a similar lower arrivals area. I find out later that they both opened within a couple of months of each other, with Vancouver opening in January 2009 and Tokyo’s in March.

Unlike Vancouver’s ground level reception, I am whisked up to the 28th floor where the elevators (with their bronze etched doors and Swarovski crystal filled handrails!) open upon Tokyo at its feet with practically an 180º vista view. The hotel is impressive with its incredible custom art collection throughout the public areas, not to mention the massive crystal chandeliers and sumptuous, decadent, but tasteful decor, the Hong Kong based hotel chain has become renowned for. 

My room, certainly large for Japan standards, is stunning, with dark marble and mahogany wood vanity bathroom, etched glass doors and a fabulous glassed in ceiling shower with soaker tub, Japanese style! It’s been some 4 years since I had a brief layover in Osaka, but I forget how the Japanese love their bathrooms…and toilets! Those wonderful cushiony toilet seats that are always warm and also so automated. They have sensors that open the lids, auto flush and basically do practically do everything…well, you get the picture!

My view from the 35th floor overlooks the heart of Japan…Tokyo Station. Although there are several major metro train stations in the city, (Shinjuku being the largest commuting station), Tokyo Station is the major hub where the famed Shinkansen or Bullet train transports the country’s population. At speeds of upwards of 500km, this is a train that I’ve never encountered before…France’s TGV has nothing compared to Japan’s uber paced ergo-dynamic train.

After a brief tour of the hotel, I dine at Nadaman, the hotel’s signature Japanese restaurant, which overlooks the station as well as the Imperial Palace gardens a block away. Designed by Hong Kong based Andre Fu, the contemporary “interior” forest is a tranquil oasis from the fast paced city outside. As one enters the restaurant, we’re greeted by a whimsical sculpture of “falling” golden leaves set onto a curved wooden table. The lighting is artistically designed to showcase shadows along the textured wall features…certainly a comfortable and intimate oasis it is. The Nadaman chain, based n Tokyo, for some 40 years has had a strong working relationship with the Shangri-la chain and has many outlets scattered throughout the hotel’s empire, but they all work independently and so their menus vary from restaurant to restaurant.

Although we strive to focus on using and eating regional and seasonal ingredients, none are more fanatical than the Japanese. To them it’s almost imperative to eat seasonal. As I walk around, I see signs of autumn everywhere showcasing special foods of the season. They don’t have Thanksgiving and cherish the bounty of the harvest just for one day. Autumn is in the air, and so are chestnuts, persimmons, truffles, matsutake mushrooms to chrysanthemum flowers and the like.

At Nadaman, I’m offered a special autumn kaiseki menu, which I eagerly accept.

Kaiseki, the Japanese version of the Western world’s degustacion or tasting menu which comprises of various small courses laid out in spectacular presentations of culinary creativity set in beautiful dishware. 

For the appetizer, a lacquer bento box with various compartments feature bite-sized morsels of salmon garnished with its orange roe, a delicate pinwheel of sliced mackerel lightly stuffed with rice, ginko nuts wrapped with fish mousse, Nibuna (Kyoto style cold spinach) to a shrimp mousse stuffed roll. Amuse bouche, Japanese style.

The next is the soup course, a light and fluffy crab mousse dumpling sits in a yuzu infused dashi broth and garnished artfully with chrysanthemum petals and shimeji mushrooms. One of the specialties of this famed restaurant is their steamed chawan mushi (egg custard) laced with a fine confetti of black truffles and topped with foie gras…could there be anything more heavenly? 

The fish course is a delicate filet of lampfish, stuffed with shrimp mousse and smothered in a ginger and sesame sauce. The salad course, typically a sunomono or vinegar style dish, helps clean the palate and is presented as fresh crabmeat lightly tossed with mild rice vinegar and topped with uni (sea urchin roe) and the gelatinous unemono (mountain yam). The country’s prized wagyu beef, so richly marbled, comes with two think slices, stuffed with meltingly sweet braised Japanese eggplant, topped with foie gras and braised daikon radish. Another course of kinky fish is wrapped in cedar parchment and stuffed with braised chestnut and ginger, with fried rice sprigs (something I’ve never seen, but so beautiful with the kernels all puffed and golden attached to the delicate stem). As with Chinese dinners, rice is the final offering, but the Japanese do it so ceremonial, with the prized rice, tossed with shards of salmon lightly tossed with wild mushrooms (enoki, shimeji, shitake) housed in its warm ceramic service bowl.

For dessert, autumn chestnuts, pureed in a delicate custard and layered with azuki bean paste under a golden brulee crust. Stunning. 

The next morning, I rise early for a bus tour to Mt Fuji, the pinnacle symbol of Japan, but before departure I enjoy a Japanese breakfast of tart preserved plums, braised vegetables (eggplant, carrot and kobacha pumpkin), miso soup, spinach, steamed rice and grilled salmon with a garnish of nato (fermented soy bean) and the ubiquitous nori. Being a congee boy, it was a great experience to have such a variety for breakfast and especially a selection of mainly savoury dishes but it was perfect for me as I’m normally not the one who indulges in sweets.

The bus tour to Mt Fuji was certainly interesting but would have enjoyed it more if the weather had cooperated. But still enjoyed getting up to the 5th level where we could get postcards stamped from Mt Fuji’s post office and to see the shrine. We drive through Hakone, which is a quaint town and famed for their inlaid wooden mosaic puzzle boxes (it started as a  transfer and check point during the Shogun era). We head to their tramway which goes up volcanic landscape and through sulphur springs but can’t see anything due to the low clouds and fog. We head to the lakeside and have a short cruise along the lake…I can see why tourists throng to this area as I am taken by the beautiful lush forests, so removed from the hectic pace of their vast urban sprawl. 

Rather than sit in the bus and head into the heavy Tokyo rush hour traffic, I get off at the closest station with a few others and take the bullet train back to Tokyo Station. I arrive in the midst of pedestrian chaos and try and figure out how to get out of the subterranean maze. I find the entrance to the hotel and escape the hectic pedestrian craze and get back into the serene oasis. This evening I dine at Piacere, the signature Italian restaurant of the hotel with the young and talented Italian chef, Paolo Pelosi. 

The 28th floor restaurant, with it’s vaulted ceiling and contemporary Venetian interior i(n warm bronze and dark marble tones) exudes richness and understated elegance. From the lacquered cases housing the traditional oshibori hot towels to the silver and glass canopied Christofle cheese cart to the mini drawer mignardise cases, nothing has been spared for this showcase restaurant.

We start off running with an amuse of a delicate parmesan panna cotta topped with a spice-licked gazpacho. A deep scarlet beet mille feuille is layered with thin scallops while lightly seared scampi is sandwiched between heady scented matsutake mushrooms. Heavenly! This is Chef Pelosi’s first major gig away from his Italian roots, and he is definitely having fun experiencing and experimenting with the exotic Japanese ingredients and it seems to be coming off with great exuberance.

Housemade picci pasta is tossed gently with slow braised sauce of eggplant and white fish and thickened with dried chickpeas, almost resonant of ribollita. Seabass comes paired with succulent froglegs and a delicate celeriac puree while a classic dish of seared Duck breast comes adorned with seasonal persimmon, chestnuts and a hint of shaved truffle.

For dessert, yogurt ravioli, chianti ice cream and berries to a slight deconstructed miniature tiramisu tower with pistachio ice cream. 

Four years ago, two of my top meals that year were at the Pudong Shangri-la (Jade on 36) and the Beijing Shangri-la (Blu Lobster)…this could very well be one of mine this year!

Next…onwards to the Imperial City of Kyoto

It’s been another year since I last visited the Bay area, but this time I’m headed down with a few of my foodie friends. These few that follow each other every week to see how much gluttony punishment we can get into by overindulging ourselves. It’s not necessarily always rich high end restaurant food, but it could be a tiny hole-in-the-wall we’ve yet to discovered their superb juicy xao long bao or flavourful smooth textured congee.

We arrive to a sunny and warm Thursday afternoon, which surprises all of us since we’ve all experienced how the city can be deceiving, hot one moment, then the bay fog saunters in with its bone-chilling dampness. The Bay area, really is a layered look when it comes to fashion!

We arrive to the historic Fairmont Hotel perched on its marbled throne atop Nob Hill. For over 100 years, this ornate icon has withstood earthquakes, depressions, makeovers and the recent economic downturn. but still continues to welcome its guests into its splendid Italianate columned lobby with a varied clientele. The grand dame still has its air of opulence, although showing a bit tired in areas, and still houses the grand balls and galas, which we managed to see at least 6 this past weekend, but it was the bus loads of tourists coming into gawk at the old lady on top of Nob Hill that surprised me. Perhaps because the hotel’s on the National Preservation Historic list now?

We check into one of the tower rooms, added in the early 60’s to take in the spectacular vies of the bay and city below. The 180˚views are  breathtaking, despite looking through fog and salt stained windows that could use a cleaning but I’m sure they’ll look the same after the fog rolls in again.

Cocktails in the Laurel Court Lounge is comforting and relaxing with the palm trees lightly swaying with soft music from the pianist which gives this classic room the much needed atmosphere it requires to hush the conversations we can hear from the vaulted ceilings.

That evening we hit one of the culinary icons that has showcased local cuisine at its best for several years. Spruce, under the leadership of Mark Sullivan, and with their recent chef de cuisine Ben Cohn, we enjoy a wonderful dinner on our first evening in the fog-induced city. The room is upscale with vaulted ceilings, muted banquettes and refined tables that has an atmosphere I love…busy enough for great energy but quiet enough for table conversation, without having to turn up my hearing aid!

- white corn soup

- white corn agnolotti

- Grilled veal chop

- Bavette steak with duck fried potatoes an bordelaise

- Peach cobbler with pate des fruit

- Chocolate bread pudding

The Tonga Room at The Fairmont:

Tiki culture is back in retro style! Think Gilligan’s Island, Trader Vics and all those cocktails with umbrellas garnishes! It’s never changed at The Tonga Room as it was first built in 1947. After the war, the South Pacific and tropical themes were hitting America with tropical styled drinks hitting the bars from Mai Tais to Flowing Lavas! Coconut shimp to rumaki and fried wontons were the norm appetizers! 

After just over a million dollar revamp, the classic Tanga Room is better then ever, with a new bar and the oh-so-kitsch floating musicians stage and hourly tropical rain storm! The drinks are a bit so sweet for my liking, but it’s my duty to do a pina colada at least once a year! With the line ups at the door, it’s a popular place all the time!

SPQR:

The sister restaurant to one of my favourites, A-16, this popular boisterous neighbourhood haunt is located in the Fillmore shopping district which has become quite trendy over the past few years. The food is rustic Italian and good! This is where food ranks supreme but unfortunately tables are crammed New York style. Before we go through the menu, our palates are enticed by our friendly server bringing us a sampling of the appetizers. Hot luscious bacalao croquettes are served with a garlic licked aioli.

Out The Door

This is The Slanted Door’s new offspring located on Fillmore with all the other new restaurants opening in this area…inexpensibe!

- steamed chicken bun

- warm sticky rice, rancho gordo hominy, salty peanuts, crispy shallots

- currant scones with lemon curd

- vanilla beignets

- pain perdu, pan de mie, strawberries

- semolina pancakes, roasted pink ladies, slamond streusel, bacon maple syrup, chantilly cream

- beef pho

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Nopa

This is a hot neighbourhood…Fillmore Street! There’s Dosa, a take on Vancouver’s Vij’s which is s stunning restaurant! Great space and the food is good. But Nopa, is high energy…they close late and it’s a chefs restaurant! Great casual food and good prices!

- little fried fish , lemon and romesco sauce

- olive oil poached albacore, potatoes, aioli and soft cooked egg

- little gems, creamy herb vinaigrette, cucumbers and mezzo seco

- flatbread of house smoked bacon, nectarines,  crescenza and port

- baked giant white beans, tomato, feta, oregano and breadcrumbs

- wod grilled squab, goats cheese bread pudding and mizuna

- bibb lettuces, pluots, almonds and cava vinaigrette

rotisserie herbed chicken, scarole and blue cheese dressing, figs and spiced chickpeas

country pork chop, Yukon gold potatoes, nardello peppers and mustrard vinaigrette

grilled leg of lamb, fresh cranberry beans and cherry tomato confit

grilled brocolli, lemon, anchovy and breadcrumbs

roasted squash, corn and green beans

San francisco is a great walking city especially to see the neighbourhoods and all the great architecture. Although Fisherman's Wharf is pretty touristy, it's great to take the cable car fo the ride down...but go early as the line ups are LONG! I preferred walking around the wharf early on Saturday morning and walked over to the Ferry Plaza Market which is a must go! It is probably one of the beest farmer's markets on this continent! Not only the amazing selections of organic fruits and vegetables, cheese and seafood, the vendors have such creative foods being served from fresh, delicate tamales and sopes downed with fresh horchata to succulent porchetta Cuban sandwiches!

It's still one of my favourite weekend getaways! I love SF!

This past week, I attended the first Int’l Chefs Congress sponsored by the large hospitality company The Ambrosia Group in one of the world’s most exciting culinary metropolis, Mexico City. Last year was my very first visit to this uber-sensorary cosmopolitan city and this was my third visit since then. Why? Culturally, historically, artisically, not just for the city, architecture and people of this great city but also for the amazing cuisine that is being produced, from traditional to modern molecular gastro techniques.

The congress showcased some 12 International chefs from America’s Mark Miller whose famed Coyote Café in Sante Fe has led him to be one of the world’s foremost authorities on Latin American cuisines, to Christophe Adam, the talented executive chef of Paris’ renown Fauchon, located in the Madeleine. 

Spanish chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, one of the forerunners of using molecular gastronomy techniques applied to design of food in his restaurant Mugaritz showcased the use of lime (which is an important ingredient in Mexican cuisine for making tortillas), in other products such as salsify and pumpkin which changed the texture of the flesh. He also showed how food can be played with and changed to imitate other food. He uses watermelon slices, dehydrates and then freezes it which then gives the appearance of beef carpaccio, garnished with pine nuts, vinaigrette and micro herbs.

One of the bright Mexican stars, is Edgar Núñez, the young executive chef of SUD 777, who takes traditional Mexican dishes and transforms them into creative modern culinary art pieces. He plays on the ubiquitous gazpacho by creating a chilled tomato water infused with chilies, chipuline (dried grasshoppers) salt powder and accentuates perfect avocado with a quenelle of mamay gelato. Sensational.

Another one of the Mexican stars, Miguel Garcia creates a trilogy of panuchos, the street cart style corn cakes usually topped with beans and assorted shredded meat toppings. In his version, he makes the bean spread pureed with avocado leaves and pickled jalapenos. The various toppings he uses are foie gras (garnished red salsa, pineapple and cilantro), a mole and a Yucatan styled cochinita (braised marinated pork with annatto and bitter orange) done sous-vide style and served with the traditional garnish of pickled red onions. I truly loved the cleverness of his representation but there were a few of the “Old Guard” in the audience that thought otherwise…

One of the more spectacular presentations was that of Tokyo’s Yoshi Takazawa who’s 10 seat restaurant Aronia de Takazawa, considered one of the top in the world for creating sensational experiences with his omakase meals, showcased how art and food are created to accentuate the palate, by both taste and visually.

Some of the seminars certainly made me think about what many of the new contemporary chefs are trying to emulate in cuisine today. Chef Dani Garcia, another one of Spains enfant terrible, when it comes to molecular gastro cuisine, emulated a tidal beach dish by taking perfectly beautiful purple potatoes and  slowly cooking them then soaking them over a 24 hour period until they imitated small pebbles, then hid poached clams and seaweed garnishes among the “stones” on a dashi base laced with gelatine. Artistic yes, but real food? Or play food?

Another dish he marinates salmon with onions and chili peppers, marinated for 4 hours then passes the mixture through a juice, which he then heats up and adds gelatin and olive oil to emulsify. The mixture then is dropped into plastic wrap and then bundled up into a tomato-shaped “dumpling” and placed into liquid nitrogen. Tomato water is mixed with natural colourant and another edible chemical and the dumpling is dipped into this coating mixture making it sheen like a tomato. When finished, you have a seafood type mousse encased in a tomato-like skin. Another play on food? Imaginative yes! Is it worth the work to create? All questions that make me think on what some of these new chefs are working on. 

Besides the modern kitchen use of sous-vide and molecular gastronomy, there were great seminars of the traditional. Reina Mendoza, a native from Oaxaca, demonstrated the ancient art of grinding roasted white cacao beans into a powder and adding sigar and spices and hand whisking into a superb frothy chocolate drink.

This was certainly one of the finest Chef’s Congress I have ever attended. Not only because of the quality of the presenters, but seeing the vast culinary regional history of Mexico, from the Old and New Worlds. Mexico is not just burritos and enchiladas as so many see this country as, but an important world cuisine. So important, that in November, UNESCO will declare the cuisine of Mexico an intangible patrimony of humanity, in particular the cuisine of Michoacan state as a case study. I look forward to continue visiting this amazing gastronomic country and see what it has to offer!

Tickets now on sale for the 7th annual "Passions" event at the Dr. Peter Centre

Presented by Scotiabank

On September 19th, 21 of Vancouver’s top restaurants will come together for an unforgettable evening of food and wine to benefit the Dr. Peter AIDS Foundation.

Vancouver, BC – Since its inception in 2004, Passions – a Benefit for the Dr. Peter AIDS Foundation has earned a reputation as Vancouver's “Best Small Gala” and as one of Vancouver’s top events for food and wine lovers … and this year will be better than ever! 

21 of Vancouver’s top restaurants will be taking part in this year’s event, including: Beachside Forno, Bin 941/942, C Restaurant, Chambar, Cibo, Cin Cin, Coast, Crave, Diva at the Met, El Barrio, Fraîche, Italian Kitchen, La Terrazza, Le Gavroche, Market, MIX the Bakery, O’Doul’s, Oru, Provence, The Observatory, and Tojo’s.

The event will also feature a selection of wines courtesy of New Zealand Wine, beer from R&B Brewing Co., coffee from Mogiana Coffee, and a martini bar provided by 1181.There will be both a live and silent auction, as well as live entertainment throughout the evening by Sangre Morena.

Gloria Macarenko (CBC TV) will be joined by Sophie Lui (Global TV) as emcees for the evening and Vancouver’s consummate man about town, Fred Lee (CBC Radio, Vancouver Courier) will serve as auctioneer.

This year’s event holds special significance, as it marks the 20th anniversary of the Dr. Peter Diaries on CBC Television. Beginning on September 10th and carrying through until World AIDS Day on December 1st, the Dr. Peter AIDS Foundation will celebrate Dr. Peter’s legacy and introduce their vision for the next 20 years with a series special events and engagements. Passions will serve as the central celebration during this important period. 

Passions – A Benefit for the Dr. Peter AIDS Foundation

Date: Sunday, September 19th, 2010

Time: 6 pm to 9 pm

Where: Dr. Peter Centre

Address: 1110 Comox Street, Vancouver BC

Tickets: $200, available August 9th at www.drpeter.org or by calling 1.800.656.0713 (only 200 tickets available).

About the Dr. Peter AIDS Foundation    

Since 1992, the Dr. Peter AIDS Foundation has continued the legacy of Dr. Peter Jepson-Young. The Dr. Peter Centre opened its doors in 1997 and cares for people living with HIV/AIDS. Operating a day health program and a 24-hour residence with palliative care and respite care services, it is the only program of its kind in Canada and is recognized as a leader in HIV/AIDS care. For more information on the Dr. Peter AIDS Foundation, the Dr. Peter Centre, and Passions, please visit www.drpeter.org.

About Passions

The history of Passions traces back to 2003, to a small charity cooking class at Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks. A year later in 2004, the event was moved to the Dr. Peter Centre and christened "Passions." Organized by Nathan Fong, this inaugural event featured nine chefs, 100 attendees and raised $7000. Under Nathan's continued stewardship, Passions has since over tripled in size and has become one of Vancouver's most popular food and wine events. 2009's event featured 20 chefs, 300 attendees and raised over $100,000. In total, Passions has raised over $500,000 since 2004.

Last year I had the fortunate chance to visit one of the jewels on our West Coast, Sonora Resort, located off northern Vancouver Island on Sonora Island. For years, this was an exclusive fishing resort frequently mainly by “the old boy’s club” of various sectors from lumber and mining to industry and business. Since its new ownership about a decade ago, vast changes were made to showcase this resort to a broader international clientele. Comfortable new accommodations, a games room featuring state of the art golf stimulators and an intimate movie theatre to a world-class health spa and gym, the resort now is able to provide guests more than just a “fishing experience.” Last year, the resort joined the French based group, Relais & Chateaux, which I’m sure has improved its international exposure as the group is renowned for its upmarket intimate lux properties around the globe.

Last year was hard hit by many local hoteliers, due to the world economic climate, and when I visited Sonora last year, it was somewhat quieter than usual. Guests were mainly made up of corporate male clientele with a smattering of families. This year shows promise as this past holiday weekend, there was certainly an increase of guests, most from south of the border…which certainly shows a sign of rebound. What impressed me though were the amount of families, young and old, that were there not only for the ubiquitous fishing but for all what this serene resort offers.  

It’s been a few years since I last went on a solo holiday with my mother, the last being after my father passed. For that long weekend I whisked away my mother to one of BC’s other Relais & Chateaux properties, The Wickaninnish Inn on Vancouver Island. This time, I thought a visit to Sonora Resort would be a different experience for her complete with a helicopter ride to the island. Although she has traveled extensively, this was her first ride on a helicopter, which she thought was so spectacular as we flew up along the Sunshine Coast, part of Desolation Sound and onto the wilderness of Sonora Island.

This year also brought change, with their new executive chef, Terry Pichor who was promoted from his previous position of sous chef. Having experienced Matthew Stowe’s exquisite cuisine last year, I was again impressed with Terry’s creativity in the kitchen.

We arrived in time for a late lunch where my mother thoroughly enjoyed a lobster clubhouse salad and a simpler lunch of Ceasar salad and garganelli pasta enrobed in a mild herbed tomato sauce with fresh spot prawns and scallops. Their dessert of a sublime dark “chocolate bar” comes in a rich ganache injected with a birchwood syrup, almost giving the impressing of the old Cadbury’s caramilk bars but sinfully better.

The afternoon brings me much needed rest and relaxing in their warm mineral pool while reading Barbara jo McIntosh’s new culinary romance novel “Cooking for Me and Sometimes for You” It’s a charming read littered with simple yet enticing recipes, inspired during her month long sojourn in Paris last February. I later catch up with mom as she tells me of her afternoon, exploring “this beautiful property” and trying her golf swing on the simulators. When asked how she did, “it got better once she was offered a cocktail cooler!” which I thought was hilarious considering coming from one who barely imbibes.

It’s our first night and we take pleasure in sampling Chef Pichor’s daily Tasting Menu. Starting with a Spot Prawn Crudo (somewhat like carpaccio), the sweet delicate meat is beautifully garnished with grapefruit segments, slivers of radish and earthy olive oil. The Torchon of Quebec Foie Gras is stunning and well paired with a cherry puree, pickled cherries, Maker’s Mark gastrique and vanilla salt. Pichor has received great training to execute such brilliant charcuterie as this heavenly torchon. 

The next course is a perfectly seared local Qualicum scallop set atop a delicate coil of tagliarini smothered in a leek and scallop emulsion. I could have had my whole dinner of this! A moist fillet of Queen Charlotte halibut sits in a pool of smoked kelp broth, sea asparagus and wood ear mushrooms. Bison tenderloin done sous vide and finished with a celeriac puree, morel mushrooms and a rich huckleberry jus. To finish, a brilliant dessert of a creamy buttermilk sorbet swimming in a pool of orange tapioca contrasted with crisp licorice meringue. Sensational world class cuisine in BC’s remote wilderness…

The next morning, after a sinfully decadent breakfast of Dungeness crab benedict and a more modest corned beef hash, it’s my mother’s first massage experience at the resort’s world class The Island Currents Spa. Housed in their own contemporary West coast designed building, this intimate and tranquil spa features a well equipped gym and manicure salon on the first floor, with treatment rooms and relaxing terraces on the second floor. The spa not only features saunas and steam rooms in each of the change rooms but a private outdoor terrace with a hot tub, warm mineral pool, cold water pool and a exhilarating swiss shower. Being my mother’s first massage experience she was given a relaxing tension relieving massage, inspired by the profound movements of the local currents of the Inside Passage. Looking rather over relaxed, I asked her afterwards about her experience and she quips “ I could have had her continue all day…!” Looks like I know what to get her for future gifts!

Last year my brother and I did the 10km hike up to Florence lake, which is located at the end of a old logging road. It’s a bit of everything, from fairly easy to steep terrain leading up to the surprisingly large lake located on the island. Sparing the fairly difficult trek up the mountainside for my mother, we are taken up to the lake by one of the guides, who was most informative of the area and history of the island. We’re dropped off to take in the breathtaking scenery at the lake and then start hiking back to the resort through the wild brush of the forest, picking the wild berries ripening in the forest, from the multi-scarlet hued salmon berries, blackberries and red pearl-sized huckleberries.

We gain a hearty appetite after the hike and we arrive back in time for lunch, this time my mother having the restaurant’s signature burger, formed from beef shortrib which after I sample, wishing it was offered back home! Being a fan of the local poultry grower, Polderside Farms, I opt for a wonderful roasted chicken breast with its perfectly roasted crisp skin, garnished with an assortment of shimeji and other wild mushrooms, baby vegetables and a herb vinaigrette. Our culinary reward after our outdoor workout. During our lunch on the terrace, we see several guest arrive back from their morning fishing adventures and with their prized catches…a bounty of salmon ranging from 18 to 32 lbs…someone has caught a Tyee! I envy them thinking I should have gone fishing as I lucked out last year because of a pod of Orcas that were in the vicinity. But instead, I spend the afternoon in the spa with a much needed sports massage after the morning’s hike while mom attempts to break records back at the golf simulator.

That evening, we choice a lighter dinner and decide to forego the evening’s 6 course tasting menu. I do though decide to try two of the tasting offerings, one being a stunning violet artichoke salad, paired with brilliant shavings of cured veal, pickled ramps, watercress and a verhus emulsion. Having just returned from Cape Breton and Nova Scotia, I decide to try the succulent Butter Poached Lobster, which is adorned with a house made guanciale and sweet corn pudding, chanterelles and tarragon froth. Perhaps some of the chefs in the Atlantic should take lead from Chef Terry as he certainly knows how to keep this crustacean moist and sublime…unfortunately most of the lobster I had on my recent East Coast visit was steamed and overcooked which made them tough and chewy! I finish with a splendid ribeye, topped with wild mushrooms complimented with a perfect reduction. I painfully skip dessert but my mother, who always has room for dessert, has their creation of the evening, frozen aerated chocolate with first of the season cherries from Osoyoos an wild rose petals…which sounded great, but I didn’t even think about having a taste before it was cleaned off the plate!

Finishing dinner fairly early meant an evening in the games room but we opt for a screening of a movie in their private theatre…complete with fresh popcorn and a gin and tonic!

Morning comes early as we finish breakfast and head out for an Eco Tour of the surrounding waters, narrated with stories of the area and capturing stunning views of the glacier waters, eagles, seals and bears! Having seen all the great marketing footage that showcased BC during the Olympics, this is what tourists alike come to see. As a local, born and bred, and like many of my friends, we take this spectacular scenery for granted. My mother having lived here all her life, is enthralled with the natural beauty. This is worth the trip alone she comments, even if you’re not a fan for trophy fishing. 

Sonora Resort is no longer the staid resort of the “Old Boy’s Club” style but has changed with what new generations want and like for their travel experiences.  It is romantic for couples, adventure for families, culinary zest for gourmands and it still has the history of one of our province’s once crowning industries, fishing. It's also a wonderful weekend retreat to spend time with your mother or someone special. Another great experience at Sonora. Perhaps another time for my Tyee!

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I’m embarrassed to say that the only two times I ventured up the Sunshine Coast was once as a young student on a high school tour to see the pulp facilities in Powell River and the other as a child with my family on a fishing trip. Both were wonderful trips as the area was isolated and remote and an adventure. Cuisine was far from my interest at the time as I was billeted on the high school trip, and vaguely remember some casserole I had to endure. But about the family trip, I still savour the thoughts of our fresh shocked oysters and the succulent salmon my father caught and prepared for our meals while we lazed at our rented waterfront cabin at Half moon Bay.

It’s been some 35 plus years since I last visited this area, which to my surprise was only a 45 minute ferry ride (BC Ferries celebrating its 50^th anniversary this year!) from Horseshoe Bay. Driving to Gibsons and visiting Molly’s Reach was certainly touristy but also sentimental as I grew up with Nick and the characters during the long-running show, Beachcombers. Certainly a major attraction to the area, the restaurant surprised me with its good comfort food and reasonable prices. Just down from Molly’s is Smitty’s Oyster Bar which has been opened by Stafford who owned Rodney’s Oyster Bar in Yaletown. I look forward to visiting his place next time!

Driving up the highway from Gibson’s the road meanders through wonderful forests, showcasing the importance of our once premier industry. But tourism has always been a major attraction to this stunning area of the coast with scores of weekender condos and inns.

One of the newest resorts is the impressive Painted Boat Resort Spa and Marina, which is a collection of contemporary wood and glass condo/villas built on a hilltop overlooking a serene marina at Madeira Park, just past Sechelt and Pender Harbour. The vaulted villas have spectacular views of the Douglas Fir enclosed marina and the central outdoor pool and restaurant.

The interiors are spectacular and well equipped with stainless steel appliances and luscious granite counters. The bedrooms are in muted natural tones and are uber-comfortable especially with a adjoining ensuite soaker tub! I didn’t want to get out of bed but when there’s a spa, there’s incentive! The resort’s intimate spa is certainly stunning with its world class treatment rooms, circular architecture with cathedral ceilings, stone floors, locally milled timber posts and deep, rich colours which all contribute to an environment of relaxation and healing. Besides the treatment rooms, the focus is their relaxing Spa Garden which showcases the sauna, therapeutic massaging waterfall pool and mineral pool, all nestled in the tranquility of a sea-scented pine grove.

The resort is managed by acclaimed Canadian Rocky Mountain Resorts, which all have stunning properties showcasing a superb restaurant. At The Restaurant at the Painted Boat Resort, chef David Cox showcases seasonal and regional cuisine at its prime. The informal modern glass-walled dining room overlooks an expansive outdoor terrace and the marina. During our visit, local clams and smoked salmon were smothered in a delicate potato cream hinted with a touch of Spanish paprika to luscious seared Qualicum scallops sat atop a white bean puree garnished with a brown caper butter. Moist fresh-in-season halibut was accompanied by a warm caponata and potato gnocchi. Free-range Alberta bison striploin comes with a subtle bacon vinaigrette. The menu is wonderfully accessible with a hint of big-city restaurant touches, such as the presentations and flourishes, but certainly worth the visit, even if you’re not staying at the resort. A great addition to the Sunshine Coast!

Wishing to have stayed a few more days, my party reluctantly leave the next morning and head up to catch the ferry onwards past Powell River toward Lund, and the beginning point of the breath-taking and renowned Desolation Sound.

Lund is such a picturesque fishing village that was founded in 1889 by two Swedish loggers, brothers Charles and Fred Thulin. Besides the whitewashed historic Lund Hotel built in 1905 with its ocean views, there’s Nancy’s Bakery, which is the renowned local bakery famous for their various cinnamon buns! They’re sold out early so we head back early the next morning…needed or not to our waistlines!

We end up at the rustic Desolation Sound Resort which is comprised of 12 cabins of various sizes and shapes, set among 7 wooded acres on the waterfront of Okeover Inlet. Our cozy cabin comprises of two bedrooms and is circular shaped which reminds me somewhat of a large yurt…but with modern comforts of a basic kitchen and a relaxing hot tub set on the outdoor private terrace. The joy to me was not have the luxuries of a phone or television. It was great to see my friends forced to relax with no cell phone coverage! They have complimentary canoes and kayaks to use which we would have experienced but had to overlook because of the cold inclement weather.

Although there’s no restaurant at the resort, we head next door to The Laughing Oyster Restaurant, owned by chef David Bowes. The food is hearty and comforting but I question my boullaibaise with obvious frozen king crab legs an New Zealand green lipped mussels, especially when you have a cornucopia of local fresh seafood at your doorstep.  Overlooking this, the views are spectacular and David also entertains the customers with his talented singing and guitar playing. Hmmmm, although the food was good, I thought his performance was better!

The Sunshien Coast always seems to be overlooked by the Gulf Islands and the more upscale resorts of Vancouver Island, but this was a welcome surprise to our group with its mostly untouched natural settings. We all can’t wait to head back, with the short ferry rides, the stunning scenery and the wonderful restaurant offerings, this coastline is not to be missed for another few decades…at least for me!

New York, certainly considered one of the culinary capitals of the globe, has always intrigued me by the sheer number of restaurants jammed tightly on this metropolis island. From the city’s famed outdoor food carts and Jewish delis to intimate sushi bars and  grandiose celebrity chef palaces, there are practically more restaurants per capita than anywhere else in the world, well, perhaps Tokyo or Hong Kong.

Having been away from this frenetic haven of gastronomy for about 6 years, I made a quick long weekend visit a couple of weeks ago, arriving in the midst of typhoon-like weather. Here are some of my highlight from this whirlwind eat-a-thon.

Bar Boulud, Daniel Boulud’s boisterous wine cave styled restaurant across from Lincoln Centre was the first of our Big Apple restaurants to visit. It’s a narrow location, and like most Gotham city restaurants, the tables are so closely place together, it’s hard not to overhear intimate conversations and to meet new friends. The restaurant is known for its relaxed bistro atmosphere as well as featuring a wonderful selection of charcuterie.

A warm Cervelais Lyonnais sausage en brioche comes mildly spiced and studded with pistachio and black truffles. Plump wild Burgundian snails come sizzling and heavy perfumed with garlic butter and parsley, garnished with crisp warm potato croquettes. Parisienne styled Beef Tartar, perfectly spiced with traditional condiments are garnished with delicate gaufrette chips.

The main entrees are well executed traditional bistro fare with seasonal freshness. A tender juicy hangar steak comes sliced over a bed of roasted root vegetables enrobed in a heavenly reduction. Local Long Island Monkfish is seared and accompanied with a stunning smoked bacon, clam and shellfish cream broth. 

Desserts are also brilliant, especially the devine Salted Caramel Tart with Espresso Foam, and Dolce de Leche Sorbet. What seems to be the big New York trend on dessert menus are ice cream sundaes but here, we have a Coupe layered with house made grapefruit mousse and chartreuse macerated raisins with cinnamon infused ruby red ice cream. Sublime.

DBGB is Boulud’s new restaurant situated in the once low-rent and seedy Bowery district, We’re here for Brunch, which seems to be one of the new hot spots as it quickly fills as soon as the doors open. The warm basket of Viennoiserie of cinnamon spiked pain aux raisins, buttery croissants, pain aux chocolate and madeleines could have sufficed for my meal. As with Bar Boulud, charcuterie is another specialty at this restaurant with a tasting plate of pâté, saucisson, rillette and head cheese with crisp thin sourdough toasts. There’s traditional Croque Madames and Monsieurs but comforting breakfast casseroles of chorizo sausages with piperade and basil oil to spicy lamb and mint merquez sausages with spinach and chickpeas are more tempting.

I’m invited to L’Artusi, located in TriBeCa, one evening by one of my NY food friends. Having not heard much of this restaurant as it’s fairly newish, I am taken back and totally off guard by the brilliant quality of the food. The theme is basically simple rustic seasonal modern Italian (with very slight Asian influences) but with the idea of share plates. It’s certainly not the typical standard Italian fare but great combinations of taste sensations.

Nantucket bay scallops come adorned with uni, preserved lemon and olive oil while thin hamachi slices fragranced with shaved fennel and lemon. The house made pastas shine with sublime al dente pastas enrobed with various combinations from Garganelli and mushroom ragu, two toned tagliatelle with a Bolognese bianco to farfalle with duck ragu.

A tender grilled octopus is tossed with new potatoes, chilies, olives and pancetta while hanger steak (one of my favourite cuts) comes along side a refreshing salsa bianco and crispy garlicky fried potatoes. I loved the roasted brussels sprouts simply tossed with olive oil and pecarino. Desserts also impress with a creamy bittersweet chocolate budino contrasted with a garnish of a chocolate-honey crisp to a rustic olive cake garnished with raisin marmelatta, vin santo is adorned with a delicate crème fraiche mousse.

I’ve never been a big fan of typical Greek cuisine as the restaurants in Vancouver are usually heavy on the lamb and potatoes menu. But at Kefi Restaurant on the Upper West Side, it changed my perception. Co-owner and executive chef Michael Psilakis, Food and Wine’s 2008 Chef of the Year and Bon Appetit’s Chef of the Year is a genius at promoting his style of contemporary Greek cuisine. His selection of mezes are clean and fresh, from a typical Greek Salad, laced with crisp iceberg, roasted peppers and shaved fennel to a brilliant grilled Octopus and bean salad to tender lamb meatballs with roasted garlic, olives and tomatoes. A crisp skinned half chicken is roasted with lemon and served with natural juices along whole garlic cloves and dill. The restaurant’s sublime thick and uber-rich Greek yogurt to their creamy sharp brined sheep’s milk feta are showcased throughout their dishes which bring this Greek food to another level, certainly not seen on our West Coast. I certainly wish there was a high end Greek restaurant of this caliber in Vancouver!

Café Boulud, situated on the Upper East Side set amongst the high end shops of Madison  Avenue is the haven for power lunches and society matrons. This certainly is a contrast to the casual DBGB and Bar Boulud with a smaller menu, the cuisine noticeably up market and innovative along with the prices. A delicate Thai Lobster Salad comes artfully arranged with the ubiquitous green papaya, mango, Thai basil and coconut foam. A terrine of fois gras is garnished with a delicate hibiscus gelee, toasted peanuts and wild arugula. Risotto is simply infused with Meyer lemons, grilled asparagus and pecorino romano. This was one of the very first NY restaurants I fell in love with years ago when Andrew Carmellini was the chef…it’s still a favourite….upscale yet relaxed with out the haute attitude of many of the city’s offerings.

Having been a fan of Carmellini’s cuisine, I venture to his new over popular restaurant Locande Verde, located in TriBeCa, with his soul-satisfying riffs on classic Italian. I’m recommended this restaurant by my dear friend Rose Levy-Beranbaum, the famed award-winning cookbook author of The Cake Bible, The Pastry Bible and the Bread Bible. We share a stunning Burrata cheese salad with peperonate, escarole and fried rosemary which is absolutely stunning. As I rarely see offal on menus, I am comforted by his simple Tripe alla Parmigiana, smothered in tomato, cheese and breadcrumbs and gently garnished with a fried organic egg. His pastas are just wonderful, simple and rustic, from his Orecchiette with rapini pesto, sweet pepper and pine nuts to a Casarece with spicy shellfish and toasted garlic. The desserts match the main courses simplicity but are still innovative in structure such as a Almond Coconut Semi freddo with shaved pineapple, mango and pineapple sorbetto to a lip puckering Lemon Tart with buttermilk gelato and lemoncello granita.

But the highlight of our dinner  and possibly the weekend, was the conversation we had about an experience Rose had encountered. She visited a famed restaurant  the previous week and had some interesting hospitality issues which certainly received much attention after she uploaded it onto her infamous blog.

Here is the copy:

The food community is largely a friendly and supportive place. Wherever in the world I've traveled chefs have always been welcoming, accommodating, and happy to connect and share all manner of food experiences. After all, it's in the nature of the hospitality business to be... well...hospitable. And people who are drawn to this profession more often than not have nurturing and generous spirits.

When Lutèce was in its hey day as top New York restaurant, André Soltner allowed me to bring a special birthday cake into the restaurant. When editor Pam Chirls and author Lisa Yockelson and I went to Restaurant Daniel for an after event nightcap, not only did Daniel Boulud voice no objections to my having brought a piece of coconut cake from my then upcoming book, the wait person graciously insisted on plating it for us. Scott Conant had no problem with my bringing an entire birthday cake into Alto for lunch.

Welcome to the new rude reality where it's cool to be cruel: the world fashioned after Simon Cowell of American Idol, where mean insults and sarcasm rule... the world of Gorden Ramsays, David Changs, and restaurants like the Spotted Pig, a world where guests are made to feel lucky they managed to get a seat, even though that seat more often than not has no back, surely to encourage the eater to leave as soon as possible to make room for the next desperate one who has bought into the hype du jour.

The Breslin, sister restaurant to the Spotted Pig, was recommended by a food friend so I lost no time in arranging a lunch date for two other favorite food friends while Woody was in town helping me film a video. Typical of the new trendy restaurant style, The Breslin did not accept reservations, so we agreed to meet at noon before the crowd (which never materialized). Nancy arrived a little early but they would not seat her (writing on the wall...).

We enjoyed the food and each other's company but it all fell apart when we brought out a little box containing two small slices of chocolate cake leftover from the taping of the day before. Woody asked the wait person if it would be ok to bring out the cake and if he would bring plates and forks. After several reproachful comments from the 20 something year old, along the lines of: "this is a restaurant..." I explained that we were all pastry chefs and just wanted to do a little tasting of a cake that had just been filmed. I gave him my card and asked if he would like to offer one of the pieces of cake to the pastry chef. He revealed that she wasn't there so I offered him a taste of the cake. "I don't do that kind of thing." was his haughty reply. He left with his nose in the air and his stride smacking of moral superiority as if to imply that the rest of us were moral misfits. I felt like I was back in the second grade! It was as though a storm cloud had eclipsed the joyful mood of our gathering. Oh! the wait person brought back four forks, pushing them onto the table, but no plates. We started to taste the cake, still set on its plastic wrap "plate," when he returned with the information that he had reported us to the chef who said we'd have to pay a fee for the forks. I asked him if it was a "forkage fee" and he smiled and said "yes." I suggested that he might have mentioned that before he brought out the forks.

The bill came and that fee for the use of four forks was a shocking $25.

I signed the charge card form and on the line designated for the tip I entered "cakeage fee." (Nancy left a generous tip because she is spiritually evolved enough not to allow other's bad behavior to affect her own shining goodness.)

The morals of the story: 

Food can never be sweetened by bad and inhospitable service.

Never be rude to writers.

Nancy Weber packed up the leftover cake to take for a special dinner at Union Square that night saying "Danny Meyer would never do such a thing!" (Danny is known in the industry as the "king of hospitality" and is loved by all.)

So, what do we writers do when so deeply offended? We write. I wrote this, Nancy is writing a commentary as a limerick (which will appear soon), and David Shamah (restaurateur, my beloved protégé, and the fourth friend of our little party) received this amazingly coincidental e-mail from Danny Meyer's office:

Dear Friends,

For years we have received an increasing number of requests from friends asking to learn our recipe for creating the consistent feeling of hospitality patrons have come to expect from our restaurants. I am thrilled to announce the newest member of our USHG family: Hospitality Quotient, a learning business for individuals and organizations who want to understand and apply the transformational power of hospitality.

With interactive classes and training programs, HQ will allow us to work with business leaders who want to enrich their employee and customer experiences and who want to assure that their organization becomes and remains a favorite within its category. Susan Salgado, who has directed our Culture and Learning department for the past seven years, will lead HQ as Managing Director and program facilitator.

Superior products and excellent service will always remain critical elements in any successful organization - but they are no longer enough to distinguish your business. Instead, we've learned that - hospitality - how you make your customers feel is what sets you apart from the pack. We welcome the opportunity to learn more about your company and how incorporating hospitality might have an impact on your business.

Thank you for your continued loyalty and support.

Warm regards,

Danny Meyer

The Breslin staff would do well to take a lesson from Danny.

This past weekend I escaped the frenzy of the Olympics and headed off to Parksville, the seemingly quaint beach resort town just up from Nanaimo. When I was invited I was surprised hearing about the weekend as I had not known anything about it...but it was only the second year.The signature event "Swirl" was held Friday night at the legendary Tigh-na-mara Spa and Resort. Thinking it would be a fairly modest sized event I was surprised to find many of the Island and the Okanagan's top wine producers pouring their superb offerings matched with culinary samplings from some of the area's finest chefs to some 300 guests.

Here's the menu from Friday night including the featured wineries:

Andrew Howarth Executive Chef, The Landing West Coast Grill at Pacific Shores Resort and Spa:

- Maple and Alderwoods Double smoked Sable Fish (Black Cod-Oceanwise) Cake served on Lime aioli and watermelon radish salad paired with French Barrel aged Cedar Creek Estate Select Chardonnay, 2007
- Rotisserie mesquite smoked Cowichan Valley Duck Breast served on the bean sprouts ahead salad, Okanagan Ambrosia Apple, Cedar Creek Pinot Noir reductions paired with same pinot noir
 
Chef Tom King, Quality Resort Bayside:
 
- A Duck Bite of Cowichan Duck Confit, gathered Greens, de Puy Lentils, and Sunchokes in Verjus drizzle

- Venison Lollipop featuring YooBou Blue Cheese and Maple-Walnut crusted Rack of Venison in a Backberry Port Reduction
 
- Fondue Cone, Michel Cluizel Chocolate Cone with Winter Fruit, Muscat Syrup, Bailey’s Whip
 
Chef Eric Edwards, Tigh-Na-Mara’s Seaside Spa Resort:

- Crispy skinned quail breast, citrus glaze. Wild Greens

- Wild Game mini sliders

- Assortment of house made petit fours
 
Chef Stephan Drolet,  The Beach Club Resort:
 
- Blueberry Cheesecake, Vanilla Custard, Blueberry Compote, Graham Powder
 
- Asian Marinated Noodles with Confit of Game Hen, Chili Citrus Glaze
 
Neptune Seafood:
 
- Sushi, served with warmed pickled ginger and an spicy Amer/asian Sauce. Dry Roasted Ribs tossed in sesame seeds for the Hot appy
 
Sysco Foods:
 
- Maple Seared Chipotle Scallop Canopy
- Black Sesame Crusted Shrimp Roll with Spicy Garlic Crab
- Pine Nut and Avocado Curry Roll
- Cranberry & Brie Phyllo Pastry on Cranberry Salsa
 
Islandscallops:

- Seared fresh scallops
 
Fanny bay oysters:

- Oysters on the half shell with condiments
 
Bernard Calibaut:

- An assortment of their chocolates
 
 
Featured Wineries:
 
Road 13
Burrowing Owl
Quails Gate
Moo Berry
Le View Pin
La Stella
Hillside Estate
Cedar Creek
Gehringer Brothers
Rocky Creek
Tinhorn creek
Peller estates
Red Rooster
Averill Creek
Sandhill
Hester Creek
Mission Hill
Prospect winery
Sumac Ridge
Inniskillin
Osoyoos Larose
Strut
See ya later Ranch
Crowsnest vineyard
 
The following day, there were a four featured wine dinners from Misson Hill Winery at Tigh-na-mara Resort, CedarCreek Winery at Pacific Shores Resort to the sublime dinner I was fortunate to indulge at the two year old Beach Club Resort with Burrowing Owl Estate Winery.

Chef Stephan Droulet, the enthusiastic and young talented chef at the resort's Pacific Prime Steak and Chop Restaurant showcased a myriad of courses matched with the Wyse family's superb Burrowing Owl Estate wines. Droulet apprenticed with the uber-wunderkind Melissa Craig of Whistler's Bearfoot Bistro and the splendid menu reflected her influences. A Pan-seared Qualicum Beach Scallop is garnished with house-cured maple pepper bacon, a delicate fried quail egg, foie gras emulsion and fizzy citrus segments (where I had them last at Bearfoot!), matched with the winery's crisp delicate Pinot Gris. Sablefish, certainly my favourite local fish, is poached with tarragon and thyme butter, served with hand cut tagliatelle tossed with a vodka cream sauce with a wild mushroom ragout. The winery's rich full bodied '07 Meritage is paired well with a slow roasted duck over a bed of pickled green cabbage and a "borscht" of red cabbage with apricot and tarragon mustard. Droulet's play on the classic "Steak and Eggs" featured a fried egg topped pepper and herb rubbed tenderloin with a Yukon Gold potato hash with chorizo, garnished with a mini blue cheese grilled sandwich and lobster hollandaise sauce. Somewhat rich but still incredibly sinful! Burrowing Owl's sublime Cabernet Sauvignon was certainly well paired!

It's been some 30 years since I last visited Parksville and their beautiful surrounding beaches. It was wonderful to see the landmark resorts such as Tigh-na-mara and the Pacific Shores, where families have holidayed for generations but it was an eye opener seeing the new Beach Club Resort, in the heart of Parksville. This beautiful new condo-hotel development is perched on the beach waterfront and occupies the site of the historic Island Hall Resort. I was impressed with the beautiful suites which featured a comforting gas fireplace, flat screen televisions and a fully equipped kitchen with steel appliances and granite countertops...which I longed to use but not on this trip! I certainly need to revisit this glorious part of our province when I have more time not just because of the slow-tempo lifestyle, scenery and beaches but also for the area's amazing boutique farming, breweries, seafood, cheeses and restaurants. It certainly won't be another wait of 30 years!

Ah, soup. The perfect cold weather antidote. When I get out my soup pot - and it's a biggun' - I'm in for an evening of leisurely cooking and weeks of pleasurable eating.

Lamb shoulders were the start of these soups and I was feeling a little lazy about deboning three lamb shoulders so I pulled out my big Chinese-style steamer pot and packed the shoulders in. As they steamed, a flavourful broth collected in the pot. About 1 1/2 hours later, the lamb was done. I let it sit in the steamer until it was cool enough to handle, I removed the bones and cut some of the lamb into bit sized pieces and some I shredded.

One soupwas straight-ahead, loosely based on Campbell's version of Scotch Broth that I loved as a child. I used lots of rutabaga - Campbell's was quite stingy in that respect - because I think it goes wonderfully with lamb, and onions, celery, carrots, cabbage, kale, dill and whole oat groats.I love oat groats and use them in place of barley in soup. Here's the soup chilling down in the sink, and in the bowl.

Soup #2 strayed off the beaten path. One of the techniques I love in Indian cooking is reducing yogurt into stability. It's simple, but takes a while. You need a good yogurt with no "stuff" in it. No gelatin or stabilizers. A real, honest, natural yogurt. The soup started with lots of chopped onions, cooked in olive oil until they were well browned.

A giant spoonful of yogurt was added then stirred constantly until it reduced to a thick paste. Then another was added, and so on until the yogurt had been used up.

Then the soup was made with lentils, lamb broth, a pinch of allspice and yellow squash. The yogurt and onion mixture was added at the end, then a big load of chopped cilantro and dill stirred in. The flavour is a happy harmony of cultures courtesy of the Indian yogurt technique; the Middle Eastern combination of lamb, lentils and allspice;  and the fresh Moroccan seasoning of dill and cilantro.

Having arrived from Hong Kong late Friday night, I had less than 72 hours to get caught up on jetlag and sleep (as well as fighting a cold) before I departed on my flight to Cape Town via Frankfurt on the Monday afternoon.

Monday arrives much too quickly and I’m packing still when my ride to the airport arrives. A rare opportunity awaits as I’ve cashed out a whack of flight points and I managed to get a first class seat on Lufthansa…which I think will be much appreciated as I need the sleep to fight off a nagging cough and cold I’ve caught (most likely from the wonderful air aboard the flights I’ve been on the past couple of weeks!). Lufthansa’s first class seats, slightly outdated compared to the other airlines with their suites and pods, are still comfortable with emphasis on their wine and food service. Champagne Veuve Devaux accompanies a slightly overcooked seared scallop amuse. I stay with the champagne and have my choice of a starting entrée…a treat of caviar with the standard accoutrements of chopped egg, minced onion, crème fraiche, buttered toast and lemon. I think my cold is getting better from the accompanying vodka shot. For dinner I hesitantly choose the tenderloin of beef with a rosemary jus with mixed mushrooms. When I place my order with the attendant, he sees my hesitancy as I mention how beef on airlines are usually overcooked to “hockey puck” stage, but he insists I try theirs. I am pleasantly surprised as the filet arrives to me hot and rare with a superb reduction with sautéed mushrooms. Impressed as it’s paired with a brilliant Haut Medoc.

The flight is seamless as I doze off and get some shut-eye.

I arrive early the next morning to Frankfurt International, which is certainly one of the busiest metropolitan airports on the globe. As we taxi to our gate, I marvel at all the planes jockeying for space on their various runways, including one of the massive double decker Airbus 380’s. I spend the next 12 hours in Lufthansa’s lounge which is impressive including a spa, dedicated restaurant (of which I have a delicate consomee with julienne of vegetables and a superb weiner schnizel with warm potato salad), comfortable day beds and one of the most comprehensive whiskey and champagne lists I’ve ever encountered in an airline lounge! I board the flight to “Joburg” which is only under 10 hours, which surprises me as I was expecting a longer time ( as when I flew Vancouver to New Zealand in April, which was 14 hours). Having a chance to sleep we land into Joburg and fortunately only have a short layover before I depart to Cape Town.

I arrive to “The Mother City”, with its famous Table Mountain and harbour, which immediately gives me comparisons and similarities to Vancouver…except for their Mediterranean styled weather. I check into the beautiful boutique-sized Cape Grace Hotel which is situated at the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. The individually designed rooms are well appointed (with plush beds and marble-lined bathrooms) and yet quirky with unique artwork showcasing the local talent. The atmosphere is low-key and unobtrusive, yet friendly and hospitable with comfortable public lounges decorated with their artistic interiors. Chandeliers have pots and pans and silverware intertwined amongst the crystal; large ceramic jardineres are featured along bright woven carpets; displays of antique chinaware are showcased with walking canes along with contemporary acrylic armchairs.

We walk around the tourist oriented V & A and its various malls, entertained by the various street performers and note that the landmark is a combination of Vancouver’s Granville Island and Gastown, yet the area still has working drydocks with visiting ships docked up and being worked upon. That evening we head to Cape Quarter, a new complex that once housed various warehouses and has been renovated into a upscale complex of restaurants, supermarket and a multitude of shops showcasing artisans and local designers. I’m noticing immediately that Cape Town is a great design city and am impressed by the contemporary architecture contrasted against the city’s 17th century-plus buildings including their landmark fortified castle.

I rise early and have a wonderful breakfast in the hotel’s dining room Signal. Their full breakfast is complemented with fresh breads and pastries, fruits, yogurts and juices. For my entrée I have been recommended their eggs benedict, something that I rarely have, but I am impressed with the wonderful gammon ham, perfect free-range poached eggs smothered with their velvety rich hollandaise. I see the gym happening later in the day!

I meet with Nicole Moody of Tourism Cape Town and lunch at the restaurant Salt, located at the deco-style Ambassador Hotel on the upscale waterfront suburb of Bantry Bay. The design of Salt is crisp- clean white contemporary, situated on the dramatic water’s edge with the waves crashing below the full glass windows. I’m impressed with the contemporary menu and talk about the importance of the chefs working with the local farmers (which we’re so used to in Vancouver), and find out that this trend is also slowly being followed in Cape Town.

The food scene is quite cosmopolitan with a variety of Asian and European restaurants, but I find out that there is a fairly large influence with Malay cuisine (Indonesian, SE Asian influenced), which stemmed from some of the original immigrants that were brought over for slavery as well as the Dutch and Portuguese settlers and explorers . The originally inhabitants of Cape Town were coloured tribes of Xhosa, The Khoi and the San. The Cape was first settled by the Dutch East India Company in the 17th century as a supply port for their ships to and from “the Indies, ” but it wasn’t until 1848 that the Portuguese explorer Bartholomew Diaz landed at the Cape and named it “The Cape of Good Hope” as the ships venturing past the Cape sailed onwards hoping to return with its cargo filled with riches from the Far East. The French Huguenots and the British arrived at the end of the 18th century importing some 63,000 slaves from Madagascar, India, Malaysia and Mozambique, bringing their culinary influences and culture. It was the blend of the Dutch and native first nations people that created the country’s unique language Afrikaans.

One of the signature restaurants of Cape Town is the Cape Grace Hotel’s Signal Restaurant, so named from Signal Hill, situated above the waterfront, from where a canon is shot everyday at noon, which during the early years signaled the ships in the harbour. Malika van Reenen is the young talented executive chef of the hotel and famed restaurant. Her cuisine draws on influences from the many cultures and nations from this region, from the French Huguenots to the Dutch and Asian settlers. Wonderful local briny oysters are paired with lemon granite and Tabasco jelly. Another starter of grilled prawns lie amongst a broth of curried coconut and coriander broth. My delicate Malay-spiced ostrich sits atop creamy saffron infused pomme puree paired with contrasting tart sweet red cabbage and coriander jus. Simply devine. Grilled mild-gamey springbok (antelope) loin is served with sautéed spinach and a light-spiced potato samosa, with a date and tamarind chutney and curried jus. Seared duck breast is paired with herbed goat’s cheese gnocchi, roasted beet root and caramelized fennel and spiced honey jus. The desserts also reflect the tropical fusion flavours with a superb sorbet trio of pineapple & Malibu, plum and lemongrass and a brilliant passionfruit and banana. A delicate rose scented pavlova is smothered with fresh strawberries and rich cream.

The next morning, my travel companion Leslie accompany my Cape-tonian friends Arnold and Ruben and we head to one of the surrounding impoverished coloured townships of Atlantis. This is where my friend Leslie has sponsored a World Vision child for the past three years. We arrive to the elementary school where we meet their headmaster, 10 year old Grenville and his teacher. For the next hour while we visit, we are all moved emotionally, not only by seeing and meeting all these young children hoping for a brighter future, but are fortunate to be entertained by several of the classes who are practicing an entertainment evening for their parents. In the school’s outer courtyard, we have some 200 enthusiastic kids perform to two choreographed dance numbers, which have us thoroughly taken by their youthful talent. Afterwards we are shown an impressive vegetable garden, which the school children are taught to grow and harvest their vegetables for the school’s kitchen. Another garden project is showcased by greenhouses that house some several hundred tomato seedlings, which are grown and sold to the town to raise monies for the school. I am impressed with the work of World Vision and to have had a chance to meet Leslie’s sponsored child and his world.

Checking out of the Cape Grace Hotel, we are driven a few minutes through the city to the foothills of Table Mountain where lies the grand-dame “Pink Lady” hotel of Cape Town, The Mount Nelson Hotel. The original hotel built in 1899, is the oldest hotel in South Africa and comprises of several historic buildings situated on lush gardens and landscaping. Entering through a majestic pillared gateway and up a tree-lined driveway, we drive into the entrance of the impressive pink-hued main building, reminding me of other notable hotel palaces such as Waikiki’s Royal Hawaiian and the Beverly Hills Hotel in Los Angeles. This elegant hotel is part of the famed Orient Express global chain of noted properties, which include the Cipriani in Venice to the Copacabana in Rio de Janiero.

That evening our friends pick us up and we head to the Franschhoek wine route to the town of Stanford, where we dine at one of South Africa’s top inn and restaurants, the 20 year old Relais Chateaux, Le Quartier Francais. Their restaurants, renown for their superb modern cuisine under their young talented executive chef Margot Janse, comprise of two sections, the main dining room which is slightly casual than their more formal Tasting Room which showcases degustation and paired wine menus. Throughout the dining rooms, the owner’s private collection of contemporary local artwork is showcased

The following day, we breakfast at the Mount Nelson’s Oasis Restaurant, which has a beautiful terraced conservatory overlooking one of the hotel’s infinity pools and lush emerald green lawns. The buffet selection is extensive with pastries, cold cuts, smoked salmon and various yogurts, juices and mueslis as well as a full hot selection. We’re impressed as we ask about gluten-free toast and are served warm slices within minutes.
After a hearty morning repas, we venture onto one of the city’s open aired tour buses for a city tour. It’s an eye=opening tour as we pass through historical areas, from the controversial District 6 where many of the coloued inhabitants were removed during the apartheid years to the Jewish Museum. We learn about the original historical waterfront and how the Dutch introduced land reclamation creating Cape Town’s large harbour. The city is showcased in its glory as we wind up the side of Table Mountain to the base of their gondola. It’s impressive as we head to this massive landmass, wondering how the  mountaintop was created to have its sheered off flattened top. We decide not to get off and stay on the bus to be driven down the curving roads on the other side of the mountain to the stunning beach areas. We arrive to Camps Bay, where restaurants line the main street filled with “beautiful people.” We arrive to see a marketing promotion of some 1000 bathing beauties being photographed to set a record as well as showcasing their Cosmo Magazine. The beach is beautiful with white sand, turquoise waters, capped with with white surf, which crashes onto the boulders at one end. We leave Camps Bay, drive along Beach Road through the Atlantic Waterfront of Bantry Bay to Sea Point and capture some of the most impressive architectural designed waterfront homes I have ever seen. It’s most noticeable that there is such a dichotomy between the wealth and poverty classes here as we’ve seen multi-million dollar estates contrasted to the multitude of shanty townships.

This evening, craving Asian cuisine, we encounter Yindee’s, which has been recommended as one of the city’s top Thai restaurants. Being somewhat skeptical of the authenticity of the food as we’re several thousand kilometers from SE Asia, I am pleasantly surprised at the quality of what we’re served. Chicken satays are well spiced and served with a chili-licked peanut sauce while fresh crisp delicate corn fritters are accompanied with a fiery sweet chili sauce. Their Pad Thai, al-dente rice noodles tossed with chicken and prawns are well balanced with heat, sweetness, and tartness from their lime-infused sauce garnished with fresh bean spouts, cilantro and crisp green beans. A great find but why should I have been surprised as I’m finding out that the city is certainly multi-ethnic and has great culinary diversity.

The following morning we head along the coast to the quaint town of Stanford and to Mariana’s, one of the country’s shining jewels of rural gastronomy. It’s here we meet the husband and wife team of Mariana and Peter Estherhuizen who started this intimate 25 seat restaurant as a weekend hobby some 6 years ago and has now developed into a serious passion with a waiting list of guests wanting to experience Mariana’s serious garden-to-table cuisine. There’s no modern molecular gastronomy here but extremely fresh simple cuisine that tastes of the country. Reminding me somewhat of Sinclair and Frederique Philips’ famed Sooke Harbour House on Vancouver Island, we visit their large garden where all their produce is grown. Local producers provide plump Peking ducks for her exquisite duck confit paired with pickled clementines atop a lentil pilaf, to rich creamy mozzarella and homemade ricotta which is stuffed with asparagus and buttery fava beans in delicate sheets of pasta rolled into luscious cannelloni, enrobed and gratineed in a sinful lemon-zested cream sauce. Plain barley is tossed with fresh herbs, caramelized onions, garden tomatoes and house-brined olives with ribbons of cucumber to enfold into a brilliant salad. Slow braised pork, pulled into a fat-enriched rillette is paired with tart-sweet confited kumquats. A brilliant shortcrust tart is stuffed with a thyme-infused stew of springbok. Desserts at this marvelous country kitchen are also simple yet focused with culinary dedication. A Spanish influenced orange and almond cake is garnished with a candied orange slice and a dollop of full fat whipped cream. Vanilla bean-flecked crème brulee, rich and creamy from the free-range eggs and local farm cream. Mariana reminds me of a grandmother wanting to feed her family with her love and passion of her home-cooked cuisine. Her humourous husband looks after the front service and is full of playful sarcasm…when telephoned to confirm our reservation, my friends are told that they’re still married and she’s still cooking in the kitchen! Throughout the afternoon, I see Peter wandering with a wine glass filled with some of their cellared stock and we’re told that he’s been trying to switch to a cocktail all day…the entertaining lunch is one of the pleasures of this brilliant culinary hideaway.

After this inspiring lunch, we head to the waterfront town of Hermanus and the Birkenhead Villa, one of the impressive properties from the The Royal Portfolio, owned by Liz and Phil Biden. The glass and polished concrete villa has 5 contemporary suites all overlooking the crashing waves of Walker Bay. It’s a sprawling inn with an open glass enclosed living room and open kitchen, wrapped around a private pool with terraces onto the rocky cliffs below. The well-appointed full windowed suites are a lover’s dream with plush beds, dusted with flower petals, walk in marble-lined rain showers and soaker tubs, complete with candles and accented with vases of flowers.

Dinner at Birkenhead is situated in their dining room located in the main building next door. It’s an elegant room overlooking the rocky beach warmed by a comforting fireplace and walls filled with artwork and curios, many from the Biden’s private collection.

The following day we take a much-needed day of relaxation and resting but the evening brings another incredible Cape Town dining experience at Jardine. This magnificent culinary temple is considered one of the country’s top contemporary kitchens from chef/owner George Jardine. Born of Scottish decent, Jardine has been producing his sublime cuisine from his second floor open-kitchen restaurant since he first opened some six years ago. The seamless service matches Jardine’s clean modern approach in using the local ingredients in producing some well-executed dishes matched with their predominant South African wine list.

With the Graham Beck sparkling 2005 Blanc de Blanc, we pair it with an opening starter on our degustation menu of a crayfish, portabella mushroom and mozzarella tian surrounded by an intensely flavoured mushroom foam and garnished with crisp garlic chips. The 2008 Bowhead Chenin Blanc is matched with a superbly seared diver sea scallop with fresh sweet peas and white asparagus surrounded by a delicate cauliflower puree. Sublime seared foie gras is served with simple sautéed cherries, pistachios and pumpkin seeds with a sublime citrus cream sauce.

For the remaining two main dishes, we enjoy a full bodied 2005 Joshua Syrah Viognier with one of their local delicate fish kabeljou (or cob) crusted with a herb crumb crust and a stunningly rich risotto nero (squid ink), with a light gremalatta garnish. The red also pairs well with a duo of lamb featuring a confit belly as well as tiny Frenched lamb loin over barley pilaf and accompanied with a pomme fondant and prune puree. Simply devine!

As I’m not usually one for desserts, I am enthralled with Jardine’s unbelievably light vanilla soufflé which comes rapidly from the pastry oven, flambéed tableside and served with a quenelle of their rich, vanilla-bean flecked ice cream.

Next week, The surrounding areas of Constantia, Noorhoek, Franschhoek and I go on my first ever game safari as well as a walking tour of Bo-Koop, the Historic Malay settlement in Cape Town.

Hong Kong 2009 - I have been invited to go to one of my favourite food cities in the world, Hong Kong, to attend their first food and wine festival. Wine for the longest time has never played an important role with Asian cuisine, but the interest in wine pairings has grown exponentially in recent years, especially with the vast interest from China. Hong Kong has unfortunately had a heavy duty on wines (40%) and it wasn’t until this year that this high tax was lifted thus creating an increase of wine purchasing in this food-obsessed city. Hong Kong is being used as the major import centre for wines entering China because of this new entity.

We board Cathay Pacific’s Flight CX889 enroute to Hong Kong, which departs at 2:45am…I only found out our departure time a few days before as I thought we were leaving Saturday afternoon! It wasn’t until my cameraman and photographer John Sherlock pointed out that it was a late flight! Cathay’s business class is comfortable at its best with their individual “pods” that have seats that lay flat back for a comfortable sleep, which is certainly needed, as it’s a long 13-plus hour flight. As soon as we take off, we’re efficiently served a selection of hot entrees for a late supper (grilled beef tenderloin and potato cheese soufflé to coconut chicken with egg fried rice are two of the choices) but as the time is already 3:15am, I opt for a lighter choice of wontons in noodle soup paired with a glass of a P. Ferraud & Fils Vire-Clesse white burgundy…then quickly to bed!

After a fairly sound 7 hour sleep, I wake up in time for a light breakfast and choose on a simple seafood congee, which is well flavoured and perfectly textured for my taste. I’m so impressed with the quality of the food on the flight as I’ve been used to so much mundane inedible as well as questionable menus on other airlines.

After arriving to Hong Kong’s contemporary and efficient airport, we ‘re picked up and head straight to our hotel for the week, the brand new Harbour Grand Hotel, the new 828 room flagship hotel of the Harbour Plaza Hotel and Resorts group, one of the infinite companies owned by billionaire Li Kai Shing. The hotel is certainly the new jewel in his portfolio of luxury properties, as we’re greeted by a stunning Swarovski chandelier and cavernous inlaid marble lobby. My executive suite on the 32 floor has one of the most spectacular views I have ever seen in the city, overlooking both Central and Kowloon.

Here is a brief synopsis of my week and some of my meals:

Yung Kee (32-40 Wellington Street, Central, Tel: 2522-1624)
-    The restaurant is famed for their roast goose which are barbecued in charcoal ovens, a rarity in this city as gas and electric dominate the kitchens.
-    Poached beef brisket in clear consommé is simple, yet elegant.
-    Sea cucumber fillets, lightly battered and fried with salt and chilies
-    Garlic fried pea sprouts
-    Goose liver Chinese sausage in steamed sweet bread roll

Tai Cheong Bakery has always been considered one of the best bakeries renowned for their custard tarts. After the takeover in 1997, former British Governor Chris Patten missed them so much, he had them flown to his London flat. The pastry is basically pure butter which makes the crust very short, rich and flavourful. The  bright yellow custard filling is delicate, well flavoured and not too sweet.

Honolulu Café, a few blocks away is always compared to Tai Cheong’s tarts but their flakey multi-layered pastry is lighter and more delicate. Their egg yolk custard filling seems also lighter, perhaps by using whole eggs rather than more yolks which Tai Cheong’s have?

Mak’s Noodle, around the corner from Honolulu Café is famed for their delicate thin skinned shrimp won ton and wonderfully al dente noodles. Very good I must add, but later in the week I’m taken to Tasty Congee and Noodle Wantan Shop in Happy Valley, which is a slight margin better, perhaps by their richer tasting broth? Whatever, both are excellent and are considered two of the best of their category in the city!

Chan Yee Jai is renowned for their sweet preserved fruits and almond cookies. I love their gingered lemon rinds as well as their sweet licorice infused dried plums. I remember my first time I visited Hong Kong, this store was like an old Chinese confectionary store, filled with glass jars of their assorted goodies, but modern conveniences have taken over and everything is now prepacked…most likely because of convenience and sanitary reasons!

Dinner at Bauhinia Restaurant in the HK Convention Centre. This stylish upscale restaurant is beautiful, set overlooking the harbour also is matched with upscale prices.

Clear broth with pears and fresh almonds
Soya Chicken with fried tofu hotpot casserole
Steamed Garoupa with classic Cantonese preparation of soy, ginger and green onions, which is my favourite fish preparation
Brocolli with sauteed shrimp and chili sauce
Fried gai-lan with soy and ginger sauce

Filming at Thai Foods, (101 *** Wing Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, Tel: 2314 3333)
Superb Hai nam chicken with rice and chili sauce. This crowded 50 seat restaurant is comprised of two simple cafeteria style rooms with a small take out kitchen at the entrance. It’s a no-frills restaurant that served great Thai food, from curried, to spring rolls to papaya salad, but it’s Hai nam chicken that people line up for.

The simple chicken is washed thoroughly then poached in chicken broth for about 45 minutes, removed and dried, then placed into a marinade of over 30 ingredients (some secret!) but mainly star anise, cinnamon, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, red chilies, Thai cilantro and cardamom. . The fat from the broth is skimmed off and then fried with washed rice, ginger, garlic, pandan leaf and galangal; then placed into a steamer.

Some 500 to 600 customers line up everyday just to sample this famed chicken. The marinated chicken sit atop a bed of the fragrant rice, yellowed from the chicken fat, and comes with a pickle of English cucumbers, red and green chilies, lemongrass, vinegar and fish sauce. The accompanying chicken sauce is made similar with ginger, garlic, sugar, lime juice, red and green chilies, white vinegar and fish sauce. But it’s the combination of the different elements of this meal that makes my stomach most satisfying ending with a bowl of the enriched clear chicken consommé made from the poaching.

Atop the 20th floor of One Peking Road in Kowloon, lies Hutong, certainly one of the trendiest restaurants in the city, but also with one of the most incredible views bar-none in this thriving metropolis. The contemporary interior contrasts with its classic Chinese furniture and antique chinoiserie throughout the room. Overall, good food, stunning views, and basically Chinese food served to business expense and expats!

Boneless double cooked mutton, with its crisped skin and chili-licked spicy dipping sauce is a stunning appetizer.
Stuffed tofu with shrimp paste and chili sauce
Sautéed shrimp with chili sauce
Fried rice with chicken and dried fish, is truly a classic and tasty.

Le 188, atop the Harbour Grand Hotel is truly a breathtaking roof top restaurant accompanied by superb cuisine and service…which is usually a tough combination to get everything matched as usually one of the elements tend to be at a disadvantage when it comes to view restaurants. The unique view is from North Point, which faces west of both Central and Kowloon sides, making it one of the best locations in the city. We decide to have a progressive lunch through the hotel's restaurants as so we start at Le 188 with…

-    Japanese scallop carpaccio with ginger jelly, scallion and cilantro crème fraiche (stunning)
-    Seared crisp skinned garoupa with wild mushrooms, barley and butter mushroom broth, which is superb..delicate moist fish with an intense mushroom infused beurre blanc.

We then head to their intimate 15 seat Japanese sushi bar Nagomi, which reminds me of any of the countless hideaway bars in Tokyo…you could easily pass it by without noticing, but once found, it’s a hidden treasure. Set right off the main lobby, I actually didn’t even notice it until we entered, but once we sat at the stunning bar, we ate some of the freshest sushi I’ve ever sampled. Towards the end I saw a glass aquarium of squirling baby crabs, about the size of my thumb. Asking the chef if they were pets, he exclaimed no, and took a few out and quickly brought them to the back of the kitchen and came out a minute later, flashed fried! Since I love soft-shelled crabs, I thought I would enjoy them, although a flash of guilt quickly came over me (only for a split second), as I quickly devoured their crunchy textured body and claws…hmmm, peanuts and beer? Fried baby crabs and sake?

The hotel’s signature Cantonese restaurant is Kwan Cheuk Heen, an exquisite setting overlooking the harbour and the hotel’s outdoor terrace pool. It’s the season for the Chinese hairy crabs that are so revered from the Shanghai region that every restaurant has them on their menus! The meat is sweet and delicate like Dungeness (which I still prefer) and is usually mixed with the crab’s sweet and rich roe.

Hairy Crab roll, a delicate wonton wrapper is stuffed with the crabmeat and enrobed with a rich sauce made with egg white and the roe.
Hairy crab claw is stuffed with the crabmeat, tempura fried and covered with the roe sauce.
Egg custard tarts with sweetened birds nest, delicate egg custard tarts are topped with a bit of sweetened birds nest, which is a delicacy from the yellow tail swallow bird’s nest which is made from their saliva.

Chocolate selection of warm  chocolate cake, mousse, ganache
A “moon cake”sphere coated with a thin layer of mango coulis (a secret recipe by , once cracked open is stuffed with white chocolate and coconut foam
Rice pudding speckled with “pop rocks”, topped with a crunchy puff pastry

Kin’s Terrace, is an intimate 25 seat private dining room with terrace situated above the neighbour Kin’s Kitchen. The artistic and bohemian owner is Lau Kin Wai, an art critic for one of the economic journals. The trend of private dining rooms seem to be increasingly popular in this serious food city, where the menu is selected by the chef depending on the daily market purchases. Tonight we have:

Clear pork broth with lotus root
Steamed fish, sprinkled with salt and served room temperature
Steamed marinated chicken with ginger, sausage and mushrooms
Steamed savoury egg custard with morel mushrooms
Pea sprouts

Today, it’s Wednesday and we have a glorious lunch at one of my favourite hotels in Hong Kong, The Kowloon Shangri-la, at their superb two-star rated Michelin Chinese restaurant, Sheng Palace.

The luncheon menu comprised of:

-    Baked barbecued duck and diced abalone in puff pastry rolls
-    Steamed fresh crabmeat and river shrimp dumplings
-    Pan fried Glutinous rice dumplings with seaweed and crab claw
-    Double boiled fresh whole abalone, sea cucumber and bamboo fungus soup, which was incredible
-    Braised king prawn with hairy crab roe and crabmeat…another sensational dish
-    Sliced crispy chicken skin served with goose liver and thin pancakes
-    Steamed fresh Hairy crab claws and winter melon with chili plum sauce
-    Steamed bean curd and bamboo fungus with pumpkin sauce

One of the new trendy restaurants is Ovologue, which is a combination art gallery/restaurant housed in a heritage building in Wan Chai. I shoot a segment with Global TV and showcase one of their specialties…believe it or not, thinking it’s a North American standard…Sweet and Sour Pork  But this one is exceptional, lightly fried till crisp and tender and tossed with a delicate tart pungent sauce made with their house fermented back vinegar…not the florescent red sauce we’re used to, but a light caramelized golden sauce.

Thursday, I meet up with the rest of the visiting journalists who have arrived from Canada and head once again to Yung Kee. As most of them have never been to this great food city before, we are taken to this famed restaurant for their roast goose!

-    roasted goose
-    pea sprouts
-    shrimp stuffed with crab roe and wrapped with tofu skin
-    Braised fried tofu and fresh tofu, mixed together in a light oyster sauce.
-    Sauteed pea sprouts with garlic
-    Steamed savoury egg custard with conpoy, shredded dried scallops
-    Sauteed chicken with fermented black beans

For another luncheon we head to another institution, the Luk Yu Teahouse, located in Central. This classic style Cantonese teahouse has served dim sum for over 60 years. Standards such as prawn dumplings and sui mai to spareribs are available but they have other eclectic dishes from sliced squab sautéed with Hunan ham, to delicate shrimp omelettes and traditional large steamed chicken buns with hard boiled eggs mixed with chicken and mushrooms.

We head to the kitchen studio of local food journalist and celebrity Walter Kei who does a cooking class for the visiting Canadian media as well as the visiting group from Australia and New Zealand. One of the recipes he showcases is a tasty Shanghai noodle dish tossed with a spicy minced pork sauce. I’ve adapted the recipe as follows:

Spicy Minced Pork with Shanghai Noodles

The sauce

1 lb (500g) pork shoulder (handground or hand minced)
4 Tbsp (60ml) Sweet Black Bean Paste
2 Tbsp (30ml) dark soy sauce
1 Tbsp (15ml) Shaoxing or any good quality Chinese cooking wine
½ to ¾  cup (125ml) water or chicken stock
1 tsp (15ml) cornstarch mixed with 3 Tbsp water

Heat a non-stick wok over high heat; add the pork and sauté until brown, making any excess moisture or water evaporates. Add the bean paste, soy sauce, cooking wine and water or stock. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer to thicken. Stir in cornstarch mixture to thicken more. Set aside keeping warm.

2 Tbsp canola oil
½ lb (225g) trimmed and rinsed bean sprouts
4 oz or small package of tofu puffs
2 Tbsp Shaoxing (30ml) cooking wine
2 Tbsp (30ml) water
2 large eggs

Heat one Tbsp (15ml) canola oil in a non-stick wok over medium high heat. Add bean sprout and tofu puffs and stir-fry until soft-crisp. Add the cooking wine and the water and continue to stir-fry keeping crisp. Transfer to a warm plate and set aside.

Clean wok and add the remaining oil. Scramble eggs and sauté to form a soft omelette. Remove and set aside.

1 lb (500g) thin Shanghai wheat noodles (uncooked)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a strong boil and add noodles, breaking them up in the water.When it reaches boiling point again, add a rice-bowlful of cold water, stir until it reaches boiling point again, then repeat adding another bowlful of cold water. Test the texture of the noodle to desired taste; drain.

Garnish, 1 English cucumber, cut into thin julienne

To serve, divide noodles onto warm serving bowls, and top with bean sprouts, tofu and omelette. Ladle sauce on top and garnish with julienned cucumber. Guests mix together noodles with ingredients to eat.

That evening we all attend the opening reception to the city’s Wine and Dine Hong Kong, which is their first festival dedicated to mainly wine and food pairings. It’s located al fresco in West Kowloon, basically at the base of the under construction ICC Tower, which when completed will be the city’s tallest tower at 118 stories. The festival, somewhat like our Vancouver International Wine Festival, is impressive for being their first year, with a modest attendance both Old and New World wineries. France is still the dominant country to be showcased as the Chinese see the Old world wines to be of prominent importance but that is slowly changing as the Chinese are realizing there are better values and great wines with many of the New World wineries.

As a devout fan of both wonton noodles and congee, we head off to Tasty Congee and Noodle Wantan Shop (21 King Kwong Street Happy Valley, HK)

This tiny 50 seat restaurant has been producing superb wonton for the last decade and has won many awards including best wonton and noodles form Tourism HK’s Best of the Best Culinary Awards. But it’s the congee that I have to say is the best I’ve ever had with great flavour and texture. The lean salted pork with the full flavoured rice broth is excellent, with just a light garnish of shredded ginger and dried conpoy.

One of my favourite centres in Hong Kong is the up-market Pacific Place Centre. Not only does it house some of the top hotels in the city (Island Shangri-la, JW Marriott, Conrad Hilton and the stunning new Upper House), but some of the hottest and trendiest restaurants. It also boasts a White Spot, for all those West Coast Canadian ex-pats longing for a Triple–O! We venture to ROKA, one of the newest contemporary Japanese restaurants in the city which features grilled robata as their specialty. The interior is stunning, with back lit agate stone, wood beams and walls, almost giving it a warm West Coast feel, but on an Asian slant. The sushi is hip and modern, with soft shell crab rolls to showcase sashimi platters, artfully presented. The cocktails are up to date as I was even surprised to see that they knew what a Dark and Stormy was! The grilled robata kushis are well executed, with slatherings of their tart-sweet teriyaki sauce. Desserts are also showcased as beautiful works of art…and they actually taste great, as Ive been so disappointed in seeing many stunning displays only to be let down with their quality.

The end of the week, my belly much too full, and now I head off to Qingdao, China to attend their large Seafood Expo.

This is the time of year when halibut, green beans, potatoes, tomatoes, garlic and basil are in alignment at the same time.  I’m consider myself blessed to have the Gastown Sunday Farmers Market literally outside my door and every Sunday I can shop at will.

I made this dish to capture and honour the deliciousness before their colour and flavour fade away for another year.

 First, a thinly sliced landscape of potatoes is roasted in the oven with sliced garlic, thyme, and olive oil until they’re crispy in some spots and soft in others.

Then halibut filets are placed on top to roast and baste the potatoes with their briny juice.

Green beans are quickly cooked and placed alongside the halibut and potatoes. To finish, tomatoes and basil are scattered about. Simple and to the point, this is late summer food at its best.

Friday Day 9

This morning we head for a quick walk through at the morning market at Tlaxcala. It’s small compared to the ones I’ve seen so far on my travels but I am still in awe of the great assortment of fresh fruits and vegetables, not to mention the all-important chilies. Bushel bags of dried chilies, from multi-rust hued anchos, chipotles and guajillos to almost dark black mulattos. I come across a fruit they call “Noni”, which reminds me a bit of the rhizome galangal, but it’s much larger and bulbous, with dark spots rather than stripes on its surface. It’s said to have good health properties, although it’s rather bland and tasteless, with a touch of sourness. It’s a hard, almost dry crunch to the texture, so I can’t say it would be on my top ten favourite list, no matter how beneficial it can be for you.
It’s pomegranate season, so these ornamental globes are all out in splendor with their shades of yellow casings showcasing their interiors of red ruby seeds. We purchase them already peeled in plastic containers and eat them, seeds and all, exploding their sweet-sour juice in our mouths.
I smell fresh grilled corn tortillas in the air and head to one of the tortillerias where I find the stall “El Trigal: Tortillas de Harina de Trigo,” where three young women are pressing and grilling the fresh hot aromatic wafers off the comal. I meet the owner, an elderly woman, Maria Stephania Concepcion, who has had the stall for over 50 years. Over the years, I’ve seen many a tortilla in production from mechanical presses and conveyors, but this was the first I’ve seen it done by hand…from the baskets of corn kernels, that have been soaked in lime to soften the grain, to being ground to masa, then rowed one by one, before being quickly thrown on the grill to cook and puff up gently. I sample one, with a light seasoning of salt, and wonder, with the increased growth of Latinos in the Lower Mainland, “Why can’t we get a decent tortilla with flavour and texture like this at home?”
I find out that 1 kg of corn will produce about 1 ½ kg of fresh tortillas. Maria’s stall is a popular one, seen by the constant line of customers…much to the dismay of her neighbouring tortillerias using their machinery.

We head to the ancient ruins of Cacaxtla, the important economic city that was inhabited by the Olmeca-Xicalancas in the pre-Hispanic period, about 700 to 900AD. This city was once an important centre for trading and commerce as it occupied a strategic position between the central highlands and the Gulf of Mexico. The site is covered by one of the largest permanent open air canopies I have ever seen, as it was built to protect it’s most valuable assets, their multi-coloured murals. The only other canopy I’ve ever seen of this magnitude, are the ones that were built to protect the unearthed terra-cotta warriors in Xian, China.

Afterwards, we head to the beautiful hacienda at San Martin Texmelucan, where we see a completely different architectural design. Started in the mid 19th Century, the style is European French classic, designed as a castle. This was a period that the wealthy wanted to showcase European opulence and so they tried to imitate the styles of architecture found overseas. The castillo is built on a lake, where trout is stocked and fished, so the hacienda has also become a tourist site. It’s rather beautiful, yet gaudy, with its French style gardens, fountains, and turrets but I still prefer the traditional Mexican design of their simpler haciendas.

We are hosted a light reception in the beautiful Baroque church plaza at Huejotzingo where we sample some of their specialties. Cemitas are special breads from the area but I pass the carbs and head straight to the wonderful poblano chili dishes that are  popular in this region. Poblano rajas, julienne cut peppers, sautéed and smothered with cream, corn and onions. Chicken breasts are stuffed with plantains and is covered with a mild poblano salsa. Hojaldre is a puff pastry style streusel stuffed with salmon, poblano chilies and fresh ricotta style cheese, reminding me of a Wellington. A dark, thick, poblano mole is rich with hints of cinnamon, chocolate, sesame seeds and just a kiss of fire from the chilies. Another rajas is cooked with requesón, the delicate fresh cheese while chili rellenos, are poblanos stuffed with sautéed chilies, fresh cheese and ham. Esquite is a chunky soup of sautéed fresh corn, Serrano chilies and epazote in a chicken broth. Delicate tamales, corn masa stuffed with Oaxacan cheese and poblanos are gently steamed.
While sampling all these poblano entrees, we hear a steam whistle and are introduced to a camotero, a vendor of candied sweet potatoes and plantains, roasted over a wood fire and served with a drizzle of condensed milk or cajeta, the popular sweet caramelized milk.

Saturday Day 10

Atlixco, Puebla

In the morning, we visit their market and am introduced to marguey worms in tortillas. Yes, you got it…fried worms in a tortilla with some salsa and a squeeze of lime juice. What can I say? A bit of a crunch and chewy in the texture…taste? All I could manage was the salsa and lime juice (thank god!).

We visit an artisan cheese producer called IPODERAC, who makes superb cow and goat’s milk cheeses from Spanish style manchego to soft washed rind styles. We find out that the organization also accepts young street kids and educates them in the production as well as caring of the animals, in doing so, keeps them off the streets and creates a better lifestyle environment.

For lunch we are introduced to the famed Puebla mole poblano and a variety of cactus leaf dishes (nopales) and their seasonal specialty Chile en Nogada at the Restaurante La Casita Poblana. We start with an assortment of crisp tortillas with guacamole and fresh cheeses, followed by a salad of cactus leaves, then cactus leaves with fresh melted cheese. A variety of moles follow, rabbit, chicken and a superb beef mixote.

It seems that poblano chilies are truly the area’s main chili of choice. We have them battered, stuffed as in rellenos and the main attraction, Chili en Nogada. This dish is only seen during the late summer, early fall season when fresh walnuts are available. These delicate nuts are carefully peeled, then chopped and mixed with beef and an assortment of dried fruit (varies from recipes but usually includes apples, raisins, pears and peach), then stuffed into the poblano chilies as the “picadillo” and napped with a walnut based white cream sauce, garnished with pomegranate seeds, giving the dish the three colours of the Mexican flag: red, green and white. Because of the colours and significance of this dish, it’s typically made and eaten around the country’s independence day, September 16th.

Sunday Day 11

Before departing to the city of Puebla, we’re introduced to the specialty of the market in Atlixco…the famed Cemitas of Puebla (torta sandwiches). We are taken to Cemitas Las Pobanitas, a hopping busy stand where they are famed for their whopping stacked sandwiches. The bun reminds me somewhat of a Portuguese style bun, but it’s the fillings that are intriguing…and filling. The shop’s cemitas are filled with the following: chipotle chilies, pickled onions, beef tendon or ham (yes tendon!), fresh cheese slices, then stringy Oaxacan cheese (Quesillo), breaded beef Milanese, papalo herb (which is important and reminds me of Vietnamese laksa leaf), pickled vegetables, pickle jalapenos and finally avocado slices! I shared one with my friend, famed Mexico City food photographer Ignacio Urquiza, and we could hardly get the whole sandwich into our mouths without something spilling out! It’s certainly a tasty filled bun but I could have done without the tendon (even though I like them…but rather have them in Vietnamese Pho!).

The city of Puebla is quite beautiful with its stunning 17th century cathedral centred in the city. I’m also impressed as the city is famed for its pottery and tile work so beautiful glazed works are seen everywhere on their graceful Spanish influenced architecture.

Tonight’s my last night on this whirlwind culinary tour through the five states I’ve encountered before I head to Mexico City for some filming for GlobalTV. It’s been certainly a food fest which has opened my eyes and palate for the various regional cuisines I’ve experienced. Unfortunately I couldn’t stay with the rest of the journalists and the remaining culinary tour as they venture to Oaxaca (I was there earlier in March) and their famed chocolate and spiced scented moles and to the rich culinary state of Chiapas. I’m saving that for another time…when I need another fix of insects!

Tourism being such an important commodity for Mexico has been hit hard because of the recent economic downturns as well as the flu outbreaks. Today we are told about the new highway from Mexico City to Veracruz that has been built over the last ten years and will soon be finished, providing a new efficient tourist route from the nation’s capital to the beaches of the Gulf. We view a new yet named luxury boutique 20 room hotel that is being built with a river on one side with the panoramic Gulf of Mexico beachfront on the opposite side. When open, it will be a secluded hideaway for the wealthy wanting to be hidden away from the chaotic everyday life, as the only mode of transportation to the resort will be by boat.

Afterwards we drive to see two of the new Grupo Habita boutique hotels. This small Mexico City based hotel chain have properties that are all designed independently depending of their environment and are all architecturally stunning. We visit the humourously named Hotel Azucar (sugar), which is a resort of 22 white washed villas surrounding a beautiful pool, organically designed, as it blends in with the beach and ocean so naturally with its seamless white kidney-shaped walls only to be outlined by the turquoise tint of the pool water. These stunning hotels are no cookie cutter chain and they have attracted international attention in regards to their unique contemporary design.

We have a late meal at Maison Couturier located in San Rafael, Veracruz, the Grupo Habita’s latest addition which opened last month. This nine suite hotel is built in an old homestead that was inhabited by two generations of a French family as the area had a strong French settlement from the early immigrants. The hotel, built on an existing banana plantation, has preserved the various homestead’s old brick walls and foundations and renewed the property with new contemporary comforts of polished concrete walk-in showers, flat screen televisions (discreetly hidden with linen covers), luscious beddings and all the fineries with up-market hotels. The pool is also designed with attention as its dramatic polished concrete slab design, although modern, blends in well with the natural rural environment. We have a late comidas of assorted local cheese (string, fresh and aged) with assorted breads, crackers and tortillas. A salad of avocado, lettuce, tomatoes and red onions are lightly dressed with a simple vinaigrette. Tortillas are smothered with a light, yet rich, pipian (pumpkin) sauce while large local gulf shrimp are lightly sautéed with garlic and kissed with a hint of chilies. A delicate crab salad, tossed with Serrano chilies and onions come accompanied with mayonnaise. Local flounder is sautéed with olive oil, onions, garlic, and chipotle chilies. For dessert, fresh green bananas from the plantation, caramelized with brown sugar and butter and served with the local thick cream, almost similar to Devon cream.

The whole region has a strong agricultural industry with various fruits and cattle as we view various crops as well as ranches throughout the day.

After a long 4 ½ hour drive into the night, we arrive to the city of Tlaxcala in the state of Tlaxcala to the Hotel Misión Tlaxcala where a comfortable awaits!

Day 8 Tlaxco (means place of tortillas)

This morning we drive to the town of Tlaxco and visit a marguey plantation where the traditional drink of pulque is artisan produced. Marguey is the large variety of succulent cacti similar to agave (where tequila and mescal are produced from) but much larger in size. Margueys are grown till they reach maturity of about 10 years old, when their long centre stalk are removed and the centre part of the body is scooped out to have aqua miel (honey water) collected. Two or three times a day, this sweet water is collected (about 4 litres a day at peak times) and poured into already fermenting pulque. After each collection day, the body bowl is scraped a bit more to encourage the massive leaves to drain more liquid. Each marquey will last about 5 to 6 months before dying. Once drained of all it’s liquid, the plant is left to dry out and then used for firewood. When harvesting, the young leaves are collected as they also produce mixote, a thin membrane, used for baking tamales. This traditional slightly alcoholic drink dates back to the Mayan period and is certainly an acquired taste similar to that of verjus or like a sour yogurt drink.

We sample a pulque mixed with piñon (pine nuts), which gives a much palable taste rather than in natural state. We snack on wonderful antijotes of tlacoyo (fried oval shaped corn dumplings) stuffed with fava beans, potatoes and topped with a fiery green salsa and fresh cheese. Free range chicken and sliced potatoes are stuffed in mixote and roasted until moist and golden brown. A large tamale of linguisa (similar to chorizo) and nopales is also stuffed with the marguey membrane and baked.

After a pleasant drive through the lush countryside, we head to the outskirts of Tlaxcala where we are hosted to a small rodeo and dinner, showcasing some of the regions culinary specialties. While most of the guest rush to the community bullring, I wander to see the various chefs and their preparations.

Mixotes, the tamales made with the thin Marguey membrane are stuffed with kid and guajillo chili sauce and steamed. Canastas Rellena de Requesón are small deep fried corn tortilla dishes filled with fresh soft cheese (similar to ricotta) mixed with chopped epazote. Bolován con Rajas y Elote are puff pastry shells, stuffed with julienned chopped poblano chilies, corn and a Mexican herb called pipitcha. Tortas de Charal, are dried small fish (similar to whitebait) fritters topped with a mild chipotle sauce. Tlatlapas con Amaxtle, a comforting soup made with chicken broth, dried black bean powder and a wild indigenous leaf, which gives the soup a slight sour taste resembling sorrel. Pollo Tocatlán, is another steamed mixote, stuffed with chicken, tomatillos, epazote, onion, cilantro, Serrano chilies, and garlic. Ovejo a la Pasilla, is kid (young goat) braised in a pasilla chili sauce. One stand out dish is Tortas de Hauzontle, which are chopped fresh amaranth leaves and fresh cheese dumplings in a tomato chili sauce. A variety of quesadillas are available stuffed with fresh cheese, huitlacoche (corn fungus), to zucchini flowers and stringy cheese and chopped mushrooms. I’m offered one stuffed with the marguey worms but I politely pass telling them I’ve had my fill of insects for the week. Once stuffed and grilled, they are topped with black beans and a garnish of a salad of nopales (cactus leaves), sliced radishes, cilantro and grated fresh cheese. For dessert, Dulce de Chayote, a sublime pudding of chayote squash infused with a hint of cinnamon and vanilla and a wonderful Requesõn con Miel y Panela, fresh ricotta style cheese drizzled with honey and sugar cane syrup.

As we sit eating under magnificent white tents, the skies darken and open up with thunderous claps and sheets of lightening but I am comforted with this magnificent food and of course cervezas and tequila.

Tomorrow, off to the state of Puebla.