Velocity Press:  The Web Journal of Trenchant Opinion   An examination of controversial subjects based on facts, logic, uncommon sense and the inclusion of exculpatory evidence.

1. How Far Did Mallory & Irvine Get?

1A. Review of Jeffery Archer's Paths of Glory

2. Care & Developing of Frozen A127 Film

3. Did Mallory & Irvine reach the Summit?
Q&A with Tom Holzel

4. The Search for Andrew Irvine

5. Q & A on The Search for Andrew Irvine

6. New Clue on Sighting of Irvine

7. Aerial Photographic Discovery of Irvine?

8. Who Owns Irvine's VPK Camera?

9. Contract Terms vs Claims of  VPK Ownership

Edited by Tom Holzel, Rev 12 October 2010

__________________________________________________________________________________

1.  In 1924, two British mountaineers were spotted high on Mt. Everest at about 1PM, only a few hours from the summit.
Mists swirled in and lost them to view. It was veteran climber George Mallory and his powerful young companion Andrew Irvine.
Both men were using early oxygen equipment, climbing in the last gasp of this, the third expedition to the mountain.
The question that remains in every mountaineer’s heart has never been answered: Did either make it to the top before perishing on the descent? 

Mallory & Irvine on the SS California en route to Mt. Everest.
(Photo: Daily Telegraph, photographer unknown.)
 

Controversy broke out within months of the expedition’s return to England. Where, exactly, did Noel Odell see the two climbers? 
He said he saw them surmounting the infamous Second Step. Critics insisted that was an impossible obstacle even for a climber as skilled as Mallory.
Counter-claims arose, with defenders of Mallory & Irvine suggesting that it was simple jealousy of the climbing community, still hoping
 to reserve the goal of First Ascent for themselves. 

Odell saw the pair climbing the severely difficult Second Step in less than five minutes. Critics claimed that the Second Step was far too difficult
an obstacle and a few did not believe he saw anyone. Others hinted that Odell mistook rocks for the two climbers. Modern critics claim that
Odell must have seen them climbing the much easier First Step. Both are promontories on the NE Ridge. The First Step is easily circumvented;
the Second Step bars that route to the summit. 

 

Mt. Everest North Face showing “the Mallory Route.” It is not know which variation they took near the NE Shoulder.
Mallory’s presumed
fall-line is shown. (Photo John English, High Mountain.) 

The next expedition, that of 1933, was far better equipped. Wynn Harris found an ice ax belonging to Irvine along the ridge.
It was presumed this marked the site of an accident on their descent. But descent from how high up? There were no further clues and the issue
 seemed to smoldered out. 

Reading the fascinating saga, it was not clear to me that the disreputable role of oxygen had been adequately factored into the puzzle.
After analyzing the ascent speed of all known climbs on Mt. Everest, the resulting chart showed clearly that climbers using oxygen climbed faster
than those that did not.[1] Extrapolating from this data discovered the probable climbing speed of Mallory and Irvine and suggested that having
reached the top of the Second Step as witnessed by Odell, they would each have had an hour or so of oxygen left. The summit was
three hours away.

Mallory could not have given up so close to his goal. He could have taken Irvine’s remaining oxygen, sent him back down to safety, and made
a solo attempt to reach the top—which he might have reached. Or so it seemed to me. Just a pre-publication notice of this idea in the
London Sunday Times
created a 3-week firestorm of objections. When the article was then published, Wynn Harris (who had found the ice ax)
was moved to apoplexy in denouncing these findings. Blowing on these coals had certainly caused this great mystery to burst back into flame.

          œ

The next clue was discovered in 1979.  Learning that Japanese climbers would be the first permitted access to Everest’s North side
since WW-II, I sent a letter asking them to be on the look-out for a body on the North Face snow field at 8200m. Astonishingly,
they replied that their Climbing Leader had held a brief conversation with Wang Hung-bao, a Tibetan porter who had been on a huge
1975 Chinese expedition. He described “an English dead” he had discovered high on the North Face. He had scribed “8100m” in the
snow with his ice ax. This could only be Mallory or Irvine! The day after this revelation, Wang died in an avalanche.  But this clue was
enough to galvanize interest in finally solving this great mystery. I mounted an expedition in 1986 to search for the English dead and
the cameras the two climbers were known to be carrying.[2] Would pictures be found taken from the top of the world? We were not to
find out. The weather was atrocious and we were snowed-out. 

Another American search expedition took to the field in 1999. Led by Eric Simonson with a search plan devised by Jochen Hemmleb,
the team met with excellent weather and with spectacular success.[3] On the first day of the high-altitude search, Conrad Anker stumbled
across Mallory’s body at 8165m in a snow field below the ice ax that contained many other fallen climbers. The body was lying face-down,
the head nearly completely covered with scree.[4] The most notable new clue was a severe mottling around Mallory’s waist—
a typical rope-jerk injury. 

In spite of this spectacular find, the mystery seemed no closer to being solved. Advocates for success claimed that none of the clues—
old or new--detracted from Odell’s sighting of the two on the Second Step, and everyone agreed that if the two had got that far, at least
one of them would have made a dash for the top.


The First and Second Steps.
Odell had described seeing the pair crossing a snow patch and then one of
them “breaking skyline” a few minutes later. The First Step is always circumvented; the Second blocks the
route and must be climbed. Shown here are the two snow patches that might qualify for the one Odell saw the pair crossing,
in this fabulous panorama by Jake Norton.

Controversy has raged unabated over which Step Odell saw the two climbers. And everything hinges on which step it was.
At first Odell was certain he saw them climbing the very difficult Second Step—and the expedition members took that for granted
at the time. Yet back in England, this consensus suffered a gradual shift. After six months, the British climbing establishment had
slowly decided it could not possibly have been the extremely difficult Second Step Odell saw them surmount. It must have been the
nearer and similar appearing First Step. Odell himself eventually recanted, but after he was no longer a candidate for further expeditions,
he returned to his original belief. The underlying question has always been: Why his confusion?
 

Odell was on the North Col and must have seen Mallory's note sent down by porters to expedition photographer Capt John Noel.
It said in part: "It won't be too early to start looking for us either crossing the rock band under the pyramid or going skyline at 8 p.m."
(He meant 8 a.m.).
[5] 

"The pyramid," i.e., the summit pyramid begins at the Second Step. "Going skyline" means cresting the ridge. It was well-known that
Mallory intended to climb via the NE Ridge and Second Step (the "Mallory Route"), rather than the alternate Great Couloir or "Norton Route."
He had Norton’s testimony about his route, and kept it in mind as a possible alternate when writing his note. Visually, both places
described in the note are very close to each other. Thus, Odell knew exactly where Mallory expected to be at 8 AM on June 8th.
 

On that same day, Odell was climbing up the North Ridge to resupply the highest camp, C-VI. At 26,000-ft he looked up as the mists
parted and suddenly saw the NE ridge unveiled. Stunningly, he spotted Mallory and Irvine climbing a step — but greatly behind schedule.
What thoughts would immediately have raced thorough his mind? It would certainly have been the thrill of seeing his comrades so high
above him. But that must have been coupled with the shock that they were-five hours late climbing the Step. This is where Odell jumped
to an incorrect conclusion: Because he saw them climbing upwards, even so late, he naturally assumed they were still en route
to the summit. Since the Second Step is the only one of the two steps that must be climbed, It would
never have occurred to Odell that
they would be climbing anywhere else than on the Second Step. Why would they? No one ever talked about climbing the First Step.
It was not on the route. If they were en route to the summit, as Odell naturally assumed because they were ascending, the only step that
needed to be climbed was the Second Step. And there they were!
 

Odell was enthralled by this "dramatic appearance" in which "they were moving expeditiously as if endeavouring to make up for lost time.
"
[6] After five minutes the mists closed-in and they were lost to view. But Odell’s vision of the two on their way to the top burned into his
memory--minus only any recognition of where, exactly he had seen then. That thrilling part his mind filled in without a second thought.
 

Yet why were the two climbers so late?[7] Many researchers have suggested that they were late because they started late, and they
started late because the unsporting oxygen equipment had needed another emergency repair. But the evidence doesn't point
that way. They had raced up the North Ridge using only ¾ of a bottle of gas--a climb rate of  840 vert ft/hr at the lower oxygen flow rate
—and an ascent nearly as fast as Finch’s amazingly fast oxygen climb in 1922 over the same terrain. They had reached the assault
camp C-VI in plenty of time the day before to have made any repairs to the cantankerous oxygen equipment, were that necessary.
But we know the equipment was working perfectly because two of their spent oxygen bottles were spotted just short of the First Step
by Eric Simonson in 1991. The altitude difference between them and C-VI divided by one bottle’s duration (4 hours at the higher flow rate)
shows that they two were climbing at 275 ft/hr. –also excellent speed at that altitude. (With open-circuit oxygen systems, climbing
speed decreases with altitude.) Thus, except for the lateness of the day, (which can be explained by other reasons) there is no evidence
for a “late start” or a balky oxygen system.
[8] 

Assuming a normal “early start” at --5 to 6 AM--and based on their demonstrated climbing speed--means they would have reached the
First Step between 10 and 11 o’clock. Yet Odell saw them climbing a Step—which we now suggest was the First Step--two to three
hours later—at 12:50PM. If they were only then on the First Step--what had they been doing in this 2-3 hour interval? 

Therefore, the crucial thing to realize is that if they were seen climbing the First Step, it can only mean they were no longer ascending.
It is a detour off their ascent route, but makes a marvelous vantage point from which to study the continuing ridge.  

The simplest and therefore most likely scenario is that they were returning from their highest point.  Perhaps they climbed all
the way to the base of the Second Step's open-book crux. Up close, the actual severity of this crucial obstacle must have hit hard. Mallory
had stated that the next time he made an attempt, it would be all or nothing.
[9] He was through exhausting himself only to set another
altitude record short of the summit. The prospect of climbing the terrifying Second Step overhang with 9,000-ft of exposure and no protection
or belay, and already on his last bottle of oxygen, must surely have seemed a risk not worth taking. In addition, Mallory had already
thoroughly exhausted himself on this expedition with rescues of porter, and then himself, and had an aborted assault without oxygen the
previous week.
[10]  Thus, at noon, standing at the ferocious crux of the Second Step, Mallory realized that this was his last hurrah.   

The 250-yd traverse between the First to the Second Step is steep and treacherous. Mallory might have taken this stretch alone while
Irvine waited at the First Step; more likely they made the traverse together. With no fixed lines, the distance takes a tricky one to two hours.  

Mallory was the shining star of the British Climbing Establishment—the Royal Geographic Society and the Alpine Club. In 1921 he became
the first human to set foot on the mountain, and he spied a route to the summit. In 1922 he had tried for the top and failed. Now in 1924,
at age 37, he was making what he himself had said would be his last attempt. By switching to the “unsporting” use of oxygen, the gloves
had been taken off and he was attacking the mountain one last time by any and all means, fair and foul. But the mountain had won again.
Hugely disappointed, they turned back to the safe ground of the First Step. 

Now, at 1PM,  they had plenty of time. As a consolation prize, they clambered up the First Step for a final look around. This was exactly
what the French did in 1981 when they, too, could no longer continue. Perhaps a view of the backside of the Second Step would reveal
an alternate route. Certainly photographs were taken. Makalu glowered a scant 14 miles away. They ate some Kendal Mint Cakes. 

Descending the Step, they began the long descending traverse along the NE Ridge. A half-hour later (2PM) they were hit by a nasty
snow squall. Odell describe this as driving sleet and biting wind. “One could not see more than a few yards ahead…”
[11] 

 

[21 Oct 2008]

Once the squall began, they would surely have roped-up, and Mallory would have taken the lead. If they had ascended via the modern route
—cutting diagonally through the Yellow Band, Mallory would be looking for the “Exit Cracks,” those several cuts in the terrain which
eventually lead to the then obvious route. But finding the cracks on the descent is tricky, even in clear weather, and they are easily missed.
The climbers must then blunder their way down, still descending diagonally, but not finding the easiest path. It is highly likely in my view
that once the squall hit, they would have tried to descend as rapidly as possible—and thus chosen some variation of the modern diagonal descent. 

With the onset of the squall and its driving wind, their greatest danger now lay not in getting lost—there are many ways to descend from the
NE Ridge—but in becoming hypothermic due to their totally inadequate clothing. 
[17] Their clothing that was only marginally effective on Everest,
and only in low wind and moderately low temperature. This is because the insulation was not thick enough to prevent conductive heat loss,
and the material was not windproof enough to prevent convective heat loss. With the onset of the squall both would now be entering the
first stages of hypothermia, with its attendant reduction in reflex time, strength and judgment.  

Due to poor visibility on the newly snow-coated rocks, Mallory slipped and Irvine tossed his ice ax aside to grab the rope with both hands.
Or Irvine slipped, perhaps while struggling to remove the now spent oxygen system. The jerk of one climber's slip in a “gentleman’s belay”[12]
is enough to pull his partner off his feet, but not nearly enough to inflict the significant rope-jerk injury that Mallory’s body exhibited around
his waist.  As they both fell Irvine would have had a second or so of time to react and try to slide feet-first.  Mallory was caught by surprise.
Perhaps Irvine was able to loop the rope over a rock to let it snag early in the fall. It likely snapped from the strain—but slowed them enough
to enable them both to halt their falls. This fall inflicted rope-jerk injuries around at least Mallory's waist. In just a few minutes, the situation
had gone from a tired, controlled descent to a desperate fight for survival.
 

As the leader, Mallory’s first responsibility was to young Irvine. But they were now separated by one of the many ledges of the Yellow Band
—a ledge high and steep enough that neither of them could climb up or down. Also, visibility was only a few yards, according to
Odell farther down. Probably injured, unable to climb back up to aid Irvine, possibly disoriented from the shock of the fall, and certainly
beginning to feel the effects of hypothermia, Mallory had but one choice—get down as fast as possible. 

Mallory continued on, picking his way diagonally downhill. He exited the Yellow Band and continued his descent onto the “8200m snow terrace.”
Perhaps, like both Norton and Odell before him, he conducted a series of glissades to speed his descent to Camp 4. But on one of these,
he lost control. Attempting to use his ice ax to self-arrest, it kicked back and pierced his skull.[13] He tumbled and slithered to the very edge
of the snow terrace and crashed into a rock that stopped his fall.[14] This scenario explains why Mallory’s body was not nearly as
dramatically traumatized as others (e.g., Wu Zongyue) that had fallen into his same area, but uncontrollably from higher up.
 

It was lying on this rock that Wang found Mallory (I believe), possibly with the ice ax still stuck in his forehead. That’s why Wang made
the gesture to his own face--to indicate the deadly puncture. (Or he simply noticed the plum-sized hole and recognized its lethality.)
He said nothing about Mallory's nearly broken-off foot.

Wang then rolled Mallory off the rock in order to effect a symbolic burial, placing a few rocks on the body, which, over the years, melded
into its pacific crucifix position.
This also explains the crossed-over foot--the whole foot improbably on top of the broken one.
The major support for this new scenario is the realization that Wang found Mallory's ice ax near his body! (according to
teammate testimony). It is just not possible that his ice ax would have neatly fallen along side Mallory, had he taken a long fall.
But if he had been successfully glissading, he would not only be in possession of his ice ax, but using it to control his slide. 
It is thus is very likely to have kicked back during an attempt to halt a slide which was getting out of control. This is nearly
the only way to explain the very unusual puncture wound inflicted on Mallory's forehead.

When you integrate Mallory & Irvine's overall exhaustion, their lack of adequate hydration (remember Norton & Somervell coming down
a few days earlier after a PERFECT day screaming "We want drink."), the length and difficulty of the route, Irvine's lack of climbing
experience, and the total inadequacy of their clothing
[17] to sustain them in a white-out snow squall--well, there just aren’t many
positive indicators left for a possible summit success scenario. Certainly unquenchable drive alone just won't do.

Irvine, too, if still alive, realized that he could not follow Mallory down, separated as they now were by an unclimbable ledges and the driving squall.
He continued a descending traverse. Eventually he got to the edge of another ledge—one of the many ledges that comprise the
Yellow Band. Too exhausted, too cold to climb back up and seek out yet another descent route, he spotted a small rock clefttt
offering the possibility of some slight shelter from the freezing wind. Dazed by hypothermia, he lay down and hoped for the best.
  

          œ

In spite of many searches made along Mallory’s fall line, Irvine has not been found. A big break-through in resolving the mystery
(and perhaps the final major clue) came in 2001, when Eric Simonson and Jochen Hemmleb (of the 1999 Mallory & Irvine Research
Expedition) returned to Beijing to track down Xu Jing, a climber of the Chinese expedition of 1960.[15] Astonishingly, he recalled
seeing a body lying on its back in a rock clefttt in the same general area as Mallory’s but still in or above in the Yellow Band,
200-300m higher up. It could only have been Irvine.  

In 1960 Chinese climbers had reached the NE Ridge by climbing diagonally through the Yellow Band as all modern climbers do.
But they did not mark the route and each team found its own way up and down the tiled strata. It was when descending in this
random fashion that Xu spotted the blackened body of a “foreign mountaineer.” Thirty-five years is a long time to hold accurate memories
of exactly where this body was briefly noticed, and Xu could not specify where in the Yellow Band he saw it. But his memory of having
seen the anomalous body was clear enough. Just like Wang finding Mallory, Xu must certainly have spotted Irvine.
 

The higher location of Xu’s dramatic sighting means that Irvine, also probably injured, did not fall as far as Mallory. Unable to find Mallory
in the driving sleet, he continued on a while longer. But in the near white-out he would not have been able to retrace the route, difficult
to follow even in clear weather. Descending through a random part of the Yellow Band he, too, finally succumbed to his injuries in the
frigid squall. If Xu's sighting is correct, he sought shelter from the howling storm in a small rock clefttt. His blackened features indicate he
did not die suddenly but slowly froze to death. 

Although each climber was believed to have taken a Vest Pocket Kodak (VPK) camera, no camera was found on or near Mallory’s body.
His was likely striped from his body during his falls and would be difficult (though not impossible) to find. Irvine, however, seems to have lain
down to die. If he did not lose his camera in his shorter fall that broke the rope, it would surely still be on his person.
[16] 

The mystery of Mallory & Irvine has fascinated mountaineers—actual and armchair—for generations. What a glorious feat it would have
been for those two vastly under-equipped pioneers of Everest to have reached the top. It is a dream that has thrilled and inspired adventurers
as much then—80 years ago--as it does today. Upon reaching the summit in 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary looked for signs of his possible
predecessor but saw nothing.  But theirs was no ordinary failure. The stirring example of the intrepid pair was their great daring on slender resources.
The pitting of their great dream against the implacable brutality of Mt. Everst--the Mother Goddess of the Snow. Yes, they did not return,
but their bold effort lives on as no mere climbing success ever could. 

            œ


[1] See climb rate chart atThe Mystery of Mallory & Irvine,” Mountain Magazine, Sept 1971. In spite of clear evidence from as early
as Finch’s record ascent-speed using oxygen in 1922, and the demonstrated high ascent-speed of Mallory & Irvine up the North Col,
1933 expedition leaders truculently refused to believe that any claimed boost of breathing “artificial” oxygen was not outweighed by the
clumsiness of the apparatus. They took oxygen equipment but did not use it. They took crampons but did not use them above the North Col.
They reached the First Step at SEVEN A.M. (!) but were cowed by and did not approach the crux of the Second Step, which is the route climbed
by 95% of North Face mountaineers.

[2] The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine, Tom Holzel and Audrey Salkeld, The Mountaineers Books, (1986), 1999
[3] Ghosts of Everest: The search for Mallory & Irvine, Simonson, Hemmleb , Johnston, The Mountaineers Books, 2000.
This excellent work lavishly documents the discovery of Mallory’s body.

[4] “Scree” is a collection of rocks that have ablated off and which usually collect at the base of slabs and cliffs. Also known as “talus.”
[5] Story of Everest, John Noel, p.214.
[6] The Fight for Everest: 1924, Lt-Col. E.F. Norton, Edward Arnold, 1925.  p 130. This is the official 1924 expedition record. A wonderful book.
[7] This vexing question, and that of where Odell saw the two, has been fertile ground for a myriad of suppositions, all driven by the desire
to achieve some predetermined outcome entailing a successful summiting.

[8] Norton suggested that “this unaccountable delay was at least partly, due to some mechanical defect in the apparatus which postponed
their start while Irvine was putting it right.” Fight, p 198. Anti-oxygen climbers were always quick to denigrate the use of oxygen, and were blind
to its proven benefits.

[9] SOURCE?
[10] “That cutting (himself out a crevasse) against time at the end after such a day just about brought me to my limit.” (May 27), Fight, p237.

“My one personal trouble has been a cough. It started a day or two before leaving Base Camp but I thought nothing of it.
In the high camp (C-3) it has been the devil. Even after the day’s exercise I have described I couldn’t sleep, but was distressed
with bursts of coughing fit to tear one’s guts—and a headache and misery altogether; besides which of course it has a very bad effect
on one’s going on the mountain.” Fight p237.

“Norton has made me responsible for choosing the parties of the attack, himself first choosing me into the first party if I like.
But I’m quite doubtful if I shall be fit enough.” (May 29), Fight p239.

[11] Fight, p 132.
[12] If the two were roped in a "gentleman's belay," i.e., simply roped only to each other, the falling climber will experience no jerk unless
his partner can then affix—belay--the rope to the ground—unlikely in Irvine's situation of having flung the ice ax aside. This tactic—practically
a mutual suicide pact--is only used today over relatively flat terrain.

[13] This was a classic injury caused by the older self-arrest method of holding on to the ice ax held next to one’s head with both hands.
It can work well sliding over packed snow, but is impossible to control over snow-covered rocks.

[14] Tumbling bodies don't usually come to a halt on 30° slopes for no reason. Mallory's fall must have been stopped by an obstacle—
in this case, the large rock by his left arm. That suggests he might have lain on the rock--perhaps on his back--not on the scree.
When Wang found him, he saw the deadly hole in his head (which he reported) and flipped him over face-down onto the scree in
order to pile a few rocks on him.

[15] Detectives on Everest, Jochen Hemmleb & Eric Simonson, The Mountaineers Books, 2002, page 183. This work is a trove of excellent
and detailed research on the search for Mallory & Irvine. The 1960 Chinese expedition was the first non-British and first post WW-II climb of
the North side of Mt. Everest. 

[i] Norton on the descent from his attempt: “Arriving on the big snow bed, I glissaded for some little distance before I realized that Sommervell
had stopped behind, and I had to wait quite half an hour for him to catch up.”  Fight for Everest, p 114. Also, Odell on his return from his support
climb to Mallory & Irvine on June 8th: “…finding the snow between 24,800 and 23,500 feet hard and conveniently steep, it was possible to indulge
in a fast standing glissade that brought me to Camp IV by 6:45 p.m.” Fight, page 133. Thus glissading on Everest was a known and oft-practiced
technique.
[16] If the camera is ever found, it must be handled with extreme care or all latent images will be lost. It should immediately be
wrapped-up tightly in light-tight aluminum foil (to contain the parts if broken), kept below freezing (store it in a double-boot filled with snow),
and taken to a photo lab in Katmandu as quickly as practical. It can not under any circumstances be x-rayed by the powerful checked-luggage
x-ray machines. It must be developed using a special protocol developed by Eastman Kodak experts who have specifically studied this
Everest film problem. [See Instructions below.]

[17] Human thermo-regulation expert Professor George Havenith of Loughborough University (UK),  has tested a rigorously accurate recreation
of Mallory's clothing in a weather chamber. His conclusion: "If the wind speed had picked up, a common feature of weather on Everest,
the insulation of the clothing would only just be sufficient to minus -10C [+14F]. Mallory would not have survived any deterioration in conditions." 
See:
http://www.lboro.ac.uk/service/publicity/publications/view/springsummer08/mallory.html .  Windchill was what the pre WW-II clothing
could not keep out  (although thin leather would have done a good job), and Prof. Havenith surmises this factor led to hypothermia and is what
directly led to M & I's death. This new scientific evidence counters the previous claims ( http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/5076634.stm )
that their simulated clothing, "tested" by an advocate for their summit success by prancing around at Advance Base Camp, was just  dandy.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

1a.Review of Jeffery Archer’s book “Paths of Glory,”
a fictional biography (!) of George Mallory.

30 December 2009 by Tom Holzel
(From amazon.com book review: http://www.amazon.com/gp/cdp/member-reviews/A7HQMP5JGS9I3/ref=cm_cr_pr_auth_
rev?ie=UTF8&sort%5Fby=MostRecentReview)

Is this a new trend? A recent blockbuster film--"Sherlock Holmes"--in which Holmes is not the prissy gentleman
detective created by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, but a slovenly 1960's hippy, and Dr Watson is no longer a bumbling senior
citizen, but a very dapper younger man. The two trade snarky insults with all the fervor of a friendship that cannot say
its name.

But at least Sherlock Holmes was fictional! Now along comes Jeffery Archer and recreates a revered historical figure,
George Mallory of Everest, that also bares no resemblance to the personality and career of the actual figure. This artistic
license might work if he had painted an interesting portrait of this complicated man and his tragic drive to conquer the
world's highest peak, but the portrait that results is a complete soap opera rewrite. His detailed descriptions of Mallory's
teammates, their camp site palaver, even the geography of the mountain, will make anyone cringe who has even a passing
acquaintance with this famous saga.

Mallory was an earnest Boy Scout riding the social coattails of his Alpine and literary acquaintances. He was too personally
disorganized ever to be a leader of men, nor did he have the interpersonal toughness for the job. The Alpinists respected
him for his astonishingly skill at rock and mountain climbing; the literati adored his physique and fey demeanor. And he was
a good guy. Yet Archer has Mallory boldly taking over the Royal Geographic Society's (RGS) Everest Committee selection process
with the commanding forcefulness of a Sergeant Major--qualities he wholly lacked--and boldly leading two Everest expeditions
once on the mountain (he was on three). It is true that Mallory was appointed "climbing leader" in 1924, but that position was
a mere pat on the back and tightly supervised by Colonel Norton, who was a true leader of men.

While he has Mallory issuing ultimatums to the august governing board left and right, Archer completely leaves out one of
Mallory's greatest achievements-- discovering the primary route to the top from the Tibetan side and then being the first human
to set foot on Everest's mighty flanks. This first expedition to Mt. Everest--the Reconnaissance Expedition of 1921--is not on
Archer's path to glory. This was when Mallory and Guy Bullock almost circumnavigated Everest seeking the best approach
to its steep slopes. After five months of the most arduous exploration, Mallory and Bullock finally discovered the hidden
eastern side of the North Col at the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier. And it was at the beginning of this expedition,
when absolutely nothing was known about the mountain's geography, that Mallory wrote to his wife that "we are about
to walk off the map." Of course that phrase is far too evocative to leave out, so Archer merely lifts it to plug into another
made-up expedition.

Archer is so enamored with the politically correct Tibetan name for Mt. Everest--"Chomolungma"--that he stuffs it into all
the climbers' mouths. But the term was never used by them, and first appeared on Wheeler's 1925 map entitled "Mount Everest
and the Chomo-lungma Group." His tin ear is on loudest display when he repeatedly has the taciturn Noel Odell call leader
Mallory "Skipper."

Probably the most egregious display of political correctness (Does that help sell books nowadays?) is Archer's assertion that
his Mallory had actually planned to select as his summit partner not one of the proven RGS climbers, but one of their Sherpa
porters with amazing natural climbing abilities! This decision taken when even Australian RGS member George Finch was denied
a place on the expedition because he was not English enough. Of course the historical realities were that while Sherpas are
genetically endowed with the ability to work hard at high altitude, none of them had climbed mountains before the arrival of
the English explorers and their "English air" (oxygen), and they were later taught the skill as ever more expeditions required
their services.

The final description of the Mallory and Irvine's climb into history lacks even the faintest patina of reality. They leave their
high camp (given as at 27,300-ft--it was actually at 26,800ft) at 5AM carrying eight hours of oxygen. 10-1/2 hours later,
they are still breathing the precious gas with presumably some still remaining for their descent. The description of the summit
pyramid--available in scores of Everest chronicles, is also a hash. There is no knife-edged ridge after the Second Step, and
there is no "vertical rock covered with ice that never melts from year to year" with "112-ft left to climb." And, of course,
both men make it to the top before perishing on the descent.

What is the point of this? It is called a novel, but uses actual names, places, and events all twisted into a Disneyesque cartoon.
There is no other suggestion that this entire tale is desperately false. To further the deception, Archer prominently credits
Audrey Salkeld, a real Everest historian, with "special thanks." Oh how Mrs. Salkeld must feel used!

Finally, a prominent blurb on the jacket of "Paths of Glory" reads "`A storyteller in the class of Alexander Dumas'
--The Washington Post." A Google search and a search of the Washington Post's archives could find no such quotation.

 

2.  A127 Film: Care & Developing Suggestions

By Tom Holzel
Rev 28 August 2010

Note to the expedition which finds Irvine's VPK Camera: Get the camera to any Eastern seaboard airport in the U.S.
kept frozen (or at least cool) without it being x-rayed,
notify me at THolzel@gmail.com , [+1 617-293-1958] and a team
of Eastman-Kodak scientists will develop the film and return it to you in complete confidence.

Note 2: These recommendations are starting points only, and given for technical perspective. 
They are not instructions to be relied on. We assume zero responsibility for poor results.

Obtaining images from A-127 film stored at 27,000-ft on Mt. Everest for over 80-years depends on many factors, only some of which
will be within the control of the researchers who retrieve the camera. Here are some of these factors, along with the Eastman-Kodak
authored developing protocol. 

1.     Film lying exposed to light is doomed. The task then is to try to save any part of the film that has been protected. If the camera
is already broken open, some segment of the film may yet be protected. This suggests that the body be searched using
metal-detecting wands such as used by airport security screeners. Once a hit is made, instead of rushing to grab the precious
treasure, think for a moment about how it might be recovered without exposing any part of it to light. Ideally, a tent or blanket
could cover the body, and then the camera be felt-for and gently removed, and immediately wrapped in aluminum foil--all under
a light-tight cover. Indeed, if time is available and the situation lends itself to it, the actual camera retrieval could be conducted at night.

2.      The camera may be broken, but still at least partially light-tight because:

a.       The camera is within its leather case

b.       The camera has “broken in place,” i.e., the broken parts have not separated and thus the camera is still partially light-tight.

c.       The camera is shielded underneath the body of the climber. Thus, if Irvine is found, attempt to pat him down to search
for the camera in his clothing. Carefully search underneath him as well. If you feel the camera within his clothing stop everything
and think: How am I going to get the camera into light-tight material without exposing it to light? This is a once in
a life-time opportunity. Don't blow it due to haste! Ideally you might place a tent next to the body, and do the pat-down at night.
Or cover the body in a tarp and pat it down under the tarp. THIS IS A ONCE IN A LIFE-TIME MOMENT. DON'T BLOW IT!!

d.      The film in the take-up reel may still be shielded.

3.    The first step in recovering the camera safely is to assume it may be broken but still together and immediately and gently (but firmly)
bind it up.
 An ideal method is to have a few sheets of aluminum foil available to wrap the camera in. Otherwise the camera should be
covered/wrapped with black plastic film (baggies) and wrapped in any type of tape that will hold in cold temperatures (e.g., Velcro strips).
If no tape is available, wrap the camera inside the baggie with string, or cloth strips or slip it inside a mitten and tie the mitten off.
The concept is to have the camera tightly bound to prevent any movement of possibly broken parts--which might tear-up the film.

4.    Once retrieved, every effort should be made to keep the camera below freezing. Placing it inside a double boot and packing
the boot with snow might serve as an emergency ice box, especially during transport to a photo lab. If it cannot be kept below freezing,
keep it as cool as possible.

5.     Recognize that once you have the camera, try to calm down. As long as you can keep it cold, speed is no longer of the essence.
It is much more important to follow the procedure correctly and slowly than to screw-up quickly.
If you have to wait a few days to make
an unobtrusive exit from Base Camp, do so.

6.     The film would be completely wiped out by any checked-baggage x-ray. It would be further damaged by hand-carry x-ray, and in danger
of being opened for inspection. Thus, the camera cannot safely be transported by air—except for one method—it could be air-shipped in
a diplomatic bag from, say, the American Embassy in Katmandu.

7.     Although we have previously suggested that the film might be developed in a photo lab in Katmandu, subsequent experiments
with old, exposed film indicate the process is far more delicate and complex than outlined here. It really must be developed
in a laboratory, one small strip at a time to gauge the degree of fogging.

8.    [No longer recommended] Searchers should obtain the Kodak chemicals in the US to assure that they are available and fresh, and bring
them to a trusted photo lab in Katmandu.

9.     The following are suggestions of how to handle the camera up to the Kodak developing instructions. Note, by “the film” we are talking
about the light-sensitive (image-containing) chemical layer or emulsion, a film-like nitro-cellulose carrier, and a paper slip sheet
or “backing” that is not attached to the carrier but may now be stuck to it. The major danger is that the carrier will be dried-out
and extremely brittle—and could possible shatter into splinters. This would destroy the image.
Thus it must be soaked
to become more pliable.

Removing the Film from the VPK camera

 Plan A 

a.     Use an experienced developing technician to handle the film. This is no place for a hyper-active, glory-seeking
amateur to learn the ABCs of handling film, no matter how well-meaning. A highly experienced film technician should read and
completely understand the Kodak instructions (below). He should have all chemicals in place, at temperature before beginning
the development procedure. (You want a fuss-budget type here, not an artiste.)

b.     IN COMPLETE DARKNESS (no safe light, but an infrared light source and viewer could be useful to watch the development
process) let the opened camera come up to room temperature (60-70-degres F—not critical) in air. Then open the camera
by removing the side panel and immerse it in the Kodak PhotoFlo solution at the same temperature.

c.    Agitate the camera to get as much fluid into the camera and around the film which is still in the take-up and supply reel chambers
and stretched across the image plane.

AFTER 15 MINUTES OF SOAKING:

d.     After 15 minutes in PhotoFlo solution, begin to GENTLY extract the rolled-up uptake roll from its chamber so that the film
is completely free of the camera. Remove the empty camera from the solution.

e.     During the 30-60-minutes of soaking, GENTLY feel if the film can be unrolled from the uptake roll. It will probably be
spring-tight and resist unrolling, but once thoroughly wetted, at least not break. This is where the film technician’s experienced
touch will be most useful. The point here is to get solution everywhere into the tightly wound film to help it relax
before removing it from the camera.

f.      Surgically cut off the potentially last exposed frame of film if there is one stretched across the film plane (using a surgeon’s
scalpel) and set it aside in its own PhotoFlo solution.

g.     As soon as the rolled-up film becomes pliable, unroll it out as best you can, using a fixed clip at one end with a weighted clip
at the other. Set this up ahead of time. The film is 22-inches long and has eight exposures.

h.     If the paper doesn’t want to come off the back of the carrier while the film is being unrolled, GENTLY see if the paper
backing can be removed. (Originally, the paper was not attached to the film carrier.)  Wherever the paper sticks to the back
of the film, work in the Photo-Flow solution to help get it off. A credit card with its edge dulled is handy to slide between the film
and paper backing TAKE YOUR TIME.  Under no circumstances scrape the delicate emulsion side of the film.

i.      There is a risk that the paper liner might stick to the front of the film.  This is the worst case and we are in trouble.
(See PLAN E). But DON’T PANIC. If the paper is sticking to the front, i.e., emulsion side, of the film, develop it as indicated
below, but greatly extending the developing time to let the developer will soak through the paper carrier and begin developing
the emulsion. This is where the judgment of the experienced technician will be invaluable. The danger here is that
over-developing will  increase image fog--possibly fogging out the image itself. Anti-fog chemicals can only do so much...

PLAN B

Even after soaking for about 20 minutes, there is still a risk that the film will not want to unroll at all, with the result that the water bath
might not be able get in to rehydrate or develop the film. Plan B consists of putting the film and solution into a small chamber and drawing
a vacuum with an Edmunds Scientific hand pump. This will cause the small amount of air within the roll to be drawn out and replaced by liquid,
and might help release the bound-up roll. 

PLAN C 

Consider using a hypodermic needle to inject solution in-between the layers. Slide the needle in-between the carrier and the paper liner
as you are squirting-out PhotoFlo solution. Do this every quarter-inch around the entire roll of film. 

PLAN D 

If all else fails in trying to unroll the film, and you have hydrated for as long as 60 minutes, using the surgeon’s scalpel, cut the film
width-wise (along the axis of the take-up reel). First make one cut to see if you can peel off a complete circumference of that layer.
If it is still stuck, make a second cut at the opposite side, always re-immersing the film in solution. Cut one layer at a time and immerse
in solution. Although it’s a shame to have to cut the film, the pieces will be much more reliably developed and printed—and easily reassembled
with PhotoShop. Plan D might become Plan B depending on circumstances and the judgment of the film technician. 

PLAN E  Paper Carrier sticks tightly to the film:

If the paper carrier sticks to the back of the film, that's OK. Just don't ruin the image-carrying emulsion side by trying too hard to separate
the paper from the film. Just develop as indicated below. Prints will be made back in the U.S.

If the paper liner sticks to the front of the film—the emulsion side—this is bad news. But it is still be possible to develop the film without detaching
it in one of two ways: First, by letting the developer soak through the paper carrier. Development times would be greatly extended for the developer
to leach through the paper liner, which increases the risk of fogging the image. If, after, say, 40 minutes, this doesn't seem to be working, consider
(groan!) cutting parallel slits a few millimeters apart in the film itself  with a scalpel in order to get developer to all parts of the emulsion. 
(Or just cut the entire film and paper into narrow slivers.) Once the hydration process is started the film has to be developed and
fixed to completion.
  Again, the technician will have to be the judge. Once developed and fixed, but not yet separated, the film would then be
brought to a lab in the US for further processing and printing.  If cutting the film into slivers is decided, the developed slivers can still be
reassembled with PhotoShop. Do not cut the slivers in perfectly straight lines; slight variations will enable the pieces to be more easily reassembled.

DEVELOPING THE FILM

Follow Kodak instructions below to develop film. If after developing, the film negative comes out featureless, or you were not able to separate
the paper carrier from the emulsion side, do not despair yet. There are other techniques such as autoradiographic processing that can obtain images
from even the thinnest negative. 

COMPLETE SECRECY is strongly advised as there are many rapaciously competing claims to the camera and its images.
Consult with an experienced trade mark attorney before making the existence of the film or its images public. 

Tom Holzel                                         THolzel@gmail.com
+1 617-293-1958 Cell                         +1 617-266-1662 Home

NOTE 03 August 2010. Much additional testing has occurred since the above description was devised.
They no longer describe the optimum process, which has continually evolved since 1984 when first mooted.
An exposed and undeveloped roll of A127 film from 1920's has been set aside to conduct final testing before
embarking on the actual developing of Irvine's film.

 

 

 

3. Did Mallory & Irvine reach the Summit?
Q&A with Tom Holzel

Reprinted with permission from http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17030
(MountEverest.net) 03:14 am EST Feb 19, 2008

Everest historian Tom Holzel climbed Everest as far back as in 1986 in search of an answer to
Mallory and Irvine's fate.




 


 

Summit or not? American historian Tom Holzel climbed on Everest as far back as in
1986 in search of the answer. Yesterday ExWeb published Tom's simple scenario for
Mallory and Irvine's final climb; a conclusion he reached after assembling all the evidence.

"It's a big disappointment. But, as a historian, one is obliged to follow the facts no matter
where they lead," Tom told ExWeb. Today a Q&A with the M&I researcher who was forced
to have a change of heart.

ExWeb: Tom, you told us that way back in the early ‘70’s you predicted that Andrew Irvine’s
body might lie below the ice ax on the snow field at 8200m. With that one article you re-ignited
interest in this famous mystery--and you created a storm of protest. Then, in 1980, the
Japanese Alpine Club wrote in reply to your letter to be on the lookout for Irvine, that a Chinese
porter on Everest told them he had discovered “an English dead” at 8100m.

TH: Yes, and that was a great confirmation of what until then had only been a possibility.
But this exciting news was not well received by the British climbing establishment.

ExWeb: Why not?

TH: British climbers, particularly the old guard, were really upset that it was an American
who was hot on the spur. And having the audacity to suggest one of their heroic failures might
have been a success. Plus my brash nature really offended them. For one thing, I failed in the
article to pay any homage to their list of great men, as one of these great men, Sir Percy
Wynn Harris acidly pointed out. Also, the official Chinese Mountaineering Association repeatedly
denied that any “foreign mountaineer” had been spotted.

ExWeb: But why should they be angry about your turning failure into possible success?

TH: We never got a straight answer. But when we left for Mt. Everest in 1986 to go look,
one book reviewer deliberately broke the embargo on Audrey Salkeld’s and my book—
The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine
--to wish us the same fate as befell Mallory & Irvine.
That pretty much set the tone for the rest of the establishment.

ExWeb: Ooops! So it wasn’t just envy…?

TH: It was rancorous pique (ed: bitter pride). Because it was they who should have thought
to look for the two climbers. Instead, they did absolutely nothing to find out what happened
to Mallory & Irvine, claimed that the “English dead” was another ‘Everest ghost,’ and complained
we were nothing less than grave robbers—all pretty much in the same breath. It was
dog-in-the-manger at its finest: we never looked, so how dare you?

ExWeb: Your theory was that Mallory & Irvine surmounted the very difficult Second Step, and
then Mallory combined Irvine’s remaining oxygen with his own in order to have enough to reach
the summit. And sent Irvine back down by himself.

TH: Yes. At the time, that was the only realistic assembly of facts that gave them any chance
of at least one of them having got to the top. And still pretty much is.

ExWeb: But you don’t feel that way anymore?

TH: The Old Guard was adamant—almost apoplectic—that Mallory would never send Irvine back to his death. Solo travel on Mt. Everest was just
not done, they exclaimed—especially to indulge in a vainglorious effort to reach the top. This while proclaiming out of the other side of their mouths
that Mallory was unstoppable, someone who would never turn back while there was any chance, etc., etc.

ExWeb: Do you still feel the same way now?

TH. No. I knew that their solo-bit complaint, sending a climber back alone, was malarkey (ed: BS) —they did it on every expedition beginning
with the first one 1921 on their return from the North Col. But they were accidentally right about Mallory not sending Irvine back from the Second Step.
Back in 1971 nothing was known about the actual difficulty of the Second Step and the traverse to reach it from the First Step. Sir Percy had
eyeballed it from below and declared it unclimbable. He also declared the Norton Route the only way to go. Since then (1933) the Second Step
has been climbed a thousand times, the Norton Route two or three times.

When  "Western" climbers were finally let in--the Japanese in 1980--they learned that the traverse from the First Step to the Second—
about 250 yards—is treacherously steep and very scary. So critics were right when they said that Mallory would not have sent Irvine back down
alone from the Second Step. This new fact weakened my theory.

ExWeb: And then it was Mallory who was found below the ice ax where you predicted, not Irvine…

TH. Yes, and that hurt the theory even more.

ExWeb: Why is that?

TH. Mallory could have been returning alone from his summit assault and just fallen to where he was found. He would certainly have been
utterly exhausted. But his body exhibited severe rope-jerk mottling around the waist—a clear sign that he had received a strong rope-jerk from
a falling partner.

ExWeb: So you say he could not have been coming down alone. He must have been descending with Irvine?

TH. Yes, and Irvine could not possibly have sat around above the Second Step completely out in the open in the midst of a snow squall for six
hours to wait for Mallory to return. Or even for an hour or two in that fearful cold.

ExWeb: So you concluded they never split up, and they must have returned together?

TH. That’s the way it looks. And the puncture wound in Mallory’s forehead looks an awfully lot like that which would result from his own ice ax
while trying a self-arrest.

ExWeb: So isn’t one way to look at it that the Old Guard was right—they didn’t climb the Second Step and they didn’t make it to the top?
Given that, isn’t your latest theory just an explication of that?

TH. That would be painful to admit if one didn’t look at the whole picture. Prior to my 1971 article, the issue was essentially closed.
Nothing was explained, and the Brits felt there was no sense in speculating further. Searching was never mooted. They simply blamed their
failure on the failure of the ”artificial” oxygen system, which caused them to be so late when Odell saw them. Sir Percy blamed the two tanks
on Mallory’s back as having acted like "runners on a sledge" to speed him to his death! It never entered their minds to look for evidence, especially
the cameras the two took.

ExWeb: And your latest scenario is…?

TH. I suddenly realized that all the palaver about Mallory & Irvine being late was based on two huge false assumptions: The first false assumption
was that they were late because of oxygen equipment problems; the second false assumption was that when they were seen five hours late, they
were still ascending.

ExWeb: So when Odell spotted them they were already coming down?

TH. Clearly. If you plug that assumption into the equation, suddenly ALL the known facts make sense—and you don’t have to turn a blind eye to
all those clues that damage whatever your latest success scenario is. Or make up scenarios out of whole cloth.

ExWeb: You’re saying all “success scenarios” have holes in them?

TH. Unfortunately, including mine. Some much bigger than others. To get the two—or even one of them—to the top requires you to finesse
important clues. Or contrive elaborate evidence-free scenarios. As a historian, you simply can’t do that. You have to simply and realistically
account for all known evidence. But, if what you want is to establish a glorious myth, then, of course, anything goes…

ExWeb: So now you’ve done a complete turnabout from your original success scenario. Are now ALL the ducks in a row?

TH. This latest theory is straight-forward, accounts for all known facts, leaves nothing out and doesn’t contrive complex alternate universes.
So it must be what happened. They failed and I show exactly how and why. What a pity. I certainly wanted to have seen them reach the top as
much as anyone.

ExWeb: This will make a lot of Mallory & Irvine fans unhappy.

TH. For sure. And it made a lot of editors unhappy, too. I’ve never had a problem getting half-dozen articles published on this subject—
as long as I was pushing the “How Mallory made it” scenario. But this negative assessment is heresy—none of the mountaineering press would touch it.

ExWeb: Except us?

TH. Bravo. That’s why I’m here!

Tom on how the film in the VPK camera should be handled and developed

In 1986, Everest expert and co-author of the book "First on Everest - The mystery of Mallory and Irvine," Tom Holzel set out to find Mallory's camera.
In addition, Tom was the one to track down Zhang Junyan and corroborated the late Chinese mountaineer's Wang's story about the discovery
of an "English body" on the mountain.

Odell says he saw Mallory and Irvine climbing the second step in less than five minutes. The section has only been free-climbed a few times since.

Oscar Cadiach (K2 Magic line, 7 main 8000ers, Everest twice), who climbed the second step without oxygen said, "It took me one hour to climb
the 50 meters-long step. I hoped two hours more would be enough to reach the summit, but breaking trail in soft snow ended up with us
topping-out six hours after climbing the Step."

 

_______________________________________________________________________

8. Who Owns Irvine's VPK Camera?--A Nest of Claims

© 2010 by Dave Green.  All Rights Reserved.
(Excerpted from an unpublished article “The Copyright that Almost Was.”
More information available at: www.henotbusy.com
)

The personal artifacts found on Mallory by the 1999 Mallory and Irvine Expedition held more than mere historical value.
Eric Simonson arranged to transfer control for all recovered artifacts to the American Foundation for International Mountaineering,
Exploration, and Research
(AFFIMER). AFFIMER deposited the artifacts with the Washington State Historical Society in Tacoma,
Washington for safekeeping and proper curation. As a condition of storage at the Society, Mallory's pocket knife, altimeter and the
personal letters, along with other materials including abandoned oxygen canisters, were appraised by insurance underwriters,
and valued at nearly $400,000.
 

From the beginning, the Society began bracing for the likelihood of lawsuits over ownership of the artifacts, and fretted about
its role. Along with the Washington State Attorney General (counsel to the Society), the Society and Simonson began strategizing
about possible responses. The Assistant Attorney General structured an agreement which positioned the Society as merely the
custodian of the artifacts, leaving to Simonson the delicate task of broaching the thorny issue of ownership.
Simonson began with Mallory's heirs. Mallory's living heirs were his two living children, Claire[1] and John, and the husband of his
now deceased third child Ruth. The heirs had been initially deeply disturbed with the 1999 Expedition, primarily over publication of
pictures of Mallory's corpse which had received widespread publicity and had appeared tabloid-style in major publications.
Simonson deftly navigated around these delicate issues, making a visit to Mallory's son John and daughter Claire. He checked out
several personal artifacts from the Society that he and his wife brought on his visit, allowing the family to touch and review their
father's possessions and his recorded private moments. Simonson left the personal letters with the family. It was undoubtedly
a powerful and emotional experience, and it led to discussions around how Mallory's artifacts might be kept together in
a permanent collection. 

The Mallory family eventually agreed to a permanent loan of the artifacts, with the initial exception of three personal letters found
in Mallory's pocket and fittingly close to his heart: one from his brother, Trafford, another from his sister, Mary, and third from an
unknown woman, Stella, on whose envelope Mallory recorded the readings of the five oxygen bottles he and Irvine carried.
Possession of the letters remained with the family. The Mallory family later reached an agreement to transfer ownership of Mallory's
letters to Magdalene College in the UK, for permanent display along with other Mallory letters.

Disposition of the remaining artifacts did not come as easy. AFFIMER discussed a transfer to RGS but insisted upon a transfer
agreement to remove any prospect of liability. RGS, however, seemed unwilling to acknowledge that AFFIMER had any ownership
rights in the artifacts, as a contrary position might establish a precedent should the camera later be found. This standstill, along
with administrative difficulties in arranging for the procurement and preservation plans, delayed the transfer. There was another
practical reason for RGS's delay; its receipt of the artifacts could impose potential significant tax consequences on RGS,
and RGS need to seek a waiver from the England's custom officials. 

During the standstill between AFFIMER and the RGS over ownership, Simonson grew tired of the delays. He sought to push
the RGS to acknowledge AFFIMER's role and possession of the artifacts. After more than a year had passed without the RGS
taking action, Simonson and WSHS decided that Simonson would reclaim the artifacts from the Society and force RGS to deal
with AFFIMEK. By then, Simonson was already in the midst of the 2001 Expedition and traveling to Everest. His wife Erin literally
backed their Subaru up to the Society's loading dock, and reclaimed a crate containing the valuable artifacts. The gambit worked.
After the tax waiver was granted, the RGS and AFFIMER finally reached an agreement to transfer the artifacts to the RGS,
with the condition that the Mallory family would retain the right to reclaim certain items should the RGS transfer ownership in the future. 

Elsewhere, relatives and heirs of other 1924 Expedition members began carefully staking their own claim, should later expeditions
recover artifacts or locate Irvine's corpse. Sandra Noel, daughter of John Noel and manager of his archive, promptly sent letters to
the 1999 Expedition leaders that quickly drew the boundaries of ownership of the camera and film. She insisted to the 1999 Expedition
members that the terms signed by 1924 Expedition members granted Noel exclusive rights to the photographs. Noel also unequivocally
asserted ownership of the camera and its film, and claimed that each member of the 1924 Expedition received its cameras and film
directly from Noel.
 

Sandra Noel's position was not shared amongst the other parties. As the 1999 Expedition members announced their plans to return
to Everest to search for Irvine and the camera, RGS issued a statement that RGS believed the camera to come from Somervell,
with ownership of the camera belonging to Somervell's heirs. Ownership of the film, however, was claimed by RGS. Not to be left out,
the British Alpine Club released its own statement supporting the Irvine family. Similar to the RGS statement, the British Alpine Club
issued a code of conduct in how Irvine's body should be treated. The British Alpine Club repeated the Irvine heirs' clear claim of
ownership of "all personal belongings found on the body." Irvine's heirs also sent strongly worded letters to Simonson, claiming
ownership of all his possessions while also requesting his body be buried and not photographed if found. 

Aside from the value of the physical objects, the major reason for the posturing of the various parties lay in the publication rights
for any recovered photographs. Within 48 hours of finding Mallory's body in 1999, the Expedition was deluged with offers to purchase
publication rights to the photos if camera was found, when finding the camera seemed inevitable. Most of the offers came from publishers,
who rather than grapple with the copyright issues were likely to publish first and deal with claims later.  

The Expedition's photographs of Mallory's body had touched off their own minor copyright battles around the globe. Much the same
way John Noel had financed the 1924 Expedition by granting exclusive rights to various publications, Simonson contracted with leading
news publishers for exclusive publication rights for various territories. In the U.S., Newsweek had obtained the exclusive publication rights.
Not to be left out, competitor Time magazine published a photo of the cover of an Australian publication featuring the same Mallory
photographs granted to Newsweek, ostensibly claiming fair use due to the newsworthy nature of the photographs. The two later fought
it out over whether Time had infringed the exclusive rights granted to Newsweek.  

Members of the 1999 Expedition regrouped again with a singular focus on finding Irvine and the camera. In March of 2001, the 2001
Mallory and Irvine Expedition headed back to Everest, again led by Eric Simonson. The team did not locate Irvine or the camera, but
did find Mallory and Irvine's last camp and many more artifacts: tents and tent poles, food and supplies, and clothing. On the Northeast
ridge, members found a single wool mitten at 27,700 feet, which they believed came from Mallory or Irvine. The Expedition was not without
its own drama; the team witnessed a Siberian climber fall horrifically to his death, and chose to abandon their own summit bid and Irvine
search objectives in order to instead rescue climbers and guides from another team. 

The 2001 Expedition produced one fascinating outcome. After the attempt to locate Mallory, Simonson flew with Jochem Hemmleb to
Beijing to meet with Chinese climbers from the 1960 and 1975 Expeditions. One Chinese member, Xu Jing, told them a startling tale that
in 1960, he had come across the body of an old English climber at about 27,230 feet. In 1960, only Mallory and Irvine were known to be
missing at that elevation. 

The second member was Zhang Junyan, a member of the 1975 Chinese expedition. Zhang was a tent-mate with Wang Hongbao,
who had relayed to him during the 1975 Expedition that Wang had found an "old English dead" at approximately 26,575 feet.
Zhang first relayed this story to Tom Holzel in 1986[2]. Wang tragically fell to his death before his story could be described in further
detail., but he had also relayed the story to his wife, with whom the 2001 Expedition members met. An interview with Xu Jing, a climber
of the 1960 Chinese Everest Expedition described finding the body o a foreign mountaineer during his solo descent. Because Mallory was
found at approximately the same height and in the same area as Xu's observation, this led Simonson to only one conclusion: Xu Jing had
come across Irvine's body, frozen at nearly 1000 feet higher than Mallory. Perhaps they had made it to the top, and fallen during their
descent at night, as the mounting evidence supported. 

More Copyright Conundrums 

With several conflicting claims of ownership, the Mallory and Irvine Expedition faced a series of nagging legal issues each time it regrouped.
It was one thing to search and possibly find the film, but quite another to determine the legal rights to exploit its reproduction. Who did own the
camera, its film, and the valuable reproduction rights? Did any copyright in the film still exist? If not, how could anyone then control the
valuable reproduction rights once the photographs had been initially published? Simonson shared his own frustrations with reporters in 2001,
claiming that “an intellectual property lawyer would have a field day with this because he could possibly bill for the next 20 years researching it.”
 

In truth, the legal issues were less daunting than uncovering the facts. As Mallory, Irvine, Somervell, and Noel were English citizens,
and RGS, the MEC, and the Alpine Club were English entities, the answer to the copyright question would likely start and ultimately end
with English law. Moreover, the contracts signed by Expedition members covering the 1924 Expedition photo rights were between English
citizens and English companies, and executed in England. While the photographs were created outside of England, the contracts between
Noel and the news publications had reserved exclusive rights for London newspapers. Therefore, the laws of England would be relevant
in determining initial ownership of copyright and related rights.[3]

Prior to the 1911 Copyright Act, when a work was created, it lingered in a perpetual state of common law copyright until it was
published. Once published, the common law copyright in a work vanished[4] and works were then protected by the term of copyright
provided in the statue. The 1911 Copyright Act eliminated the publication requirement, and protected works upon their creation for
the life of the author plus fifty years. 

Photographs, however, were protected for a much shorter term of fifty years from their making. While photography had been practiced
since at least 1839, courts and legislatures had been loathe to grant photographs the same protection as other artistic works.
Early critics argued that photographers did not contribute artistic expression: Photography "copies everything and explains nothing,
it is blind to the realm of the spirit."[5] Not until 1948 would the Berne Convention mandate protection for photographs; even then,
many countries granted greater protection only for "artistic" (as opposed to "ordinary' photographs. This prejudice against photography
would continue to be reflected in English copyright law until 1988. 

By 1988 the British government had again overhauled its copyright law.. The 1988 Act finally changed the duration of existing
copyrights in photography to life of the author plus fifty years (later extended to life plus seventy years), and more pertinent,
indisputably classified photographs as "artistic works".[6] This meant that that the previous statutory prejudice against photographs
was now eliminated, and the law now treated photographers as owners of the copyright in photographs they created, unless they
were specifically employed to photograph or had assigned away their copyright ownerships by written contract. 

However, copyright protection in Mallory or Irvine's photographs had already expired in 1974 (fifty years after their making),
and the photographs would now have fallen into the public domain. The changes in 1988 did nothing to restore expired copyrights
in photographs created before 1988. Nor did they alter the analysis of ownership, though the issue was now moot as copyright
had expired. Copyright ownership now seemed irrelevant. That was, until the British legislature again tinkered with its copyright
laws in 1995, recognizing, for the first time, a "publication right." 

The publication right was not an extension of copyright. In fact it wasn't a copyright at all. Rather, it was a new right, applied
to works that had remained unpublished, and it included photographs and films. The new law "revived" many of the protections
afforded to copyright owners, and it worked like this: If a copyright in an unpublished work had expired, but the work was later
published for the first time, the publisher obtained a twenty five year "publication right". To qualify for this right, the publisher
needed to be a citizen of a European Economic Area and the photographs had to be published first in the EEA. Yet again, the
publication right was not necessarily owned by the author of the photograph, but by the owner of the film. 

The passage of this legislation had raised an interesting dilemma for the 1999 and 2001 Expeditions. Under prior laws, the finder
of the camera would not have to worry about copyright ownership claims, as the copyrights had expired. This also meant that
Expedition members could not control later reproduction of the found photographs, making it difficult to guarantee any exclusive
licensing or prevent subsequent copying. But if the finder made sure the photographs were published by an EEA publisher in
an EEA state, they could potentially enjoy twenty five years of controlling the use and licensing of the photographs, reaping
the economic benefits. The solution seemed simple: contract with an EEA publisher and publish first in the EEA. 

If only the 1996 Regulations were so simple. In order to qualify for the publication right, the Regulations required that the first
publication be "authorized". The Regulations implied that only the legal owner of the physical material in which the work was
embodied could legally authorize publication of the work. If the owner did not authorize the publication, the law would ignore
the unauthorized publication, and presumably permit the legal owner to retain the publication right if the work was eventually
published with authorization. 

The new law only seemed to further taunt the Expedition members: who actually owned the film? Was ownership linked to
the person who had originally supplied the film? If so, how could anyone prove who the supplier was? Was it Mallory, Irvine,
Somervell, Noel or the RGS? Additionally, if Noel was the supplier, did he alone own the film rights? What about the investors
of Noel's defunct company? Once again, the details behind the 1924 Expedition made the legal outcome uncertain. 

Deciphering the 1911 Copyright Act, it would appear that the MEC's agreement with expedition members vested MEC with
at least the copyright in the photographs they took, regardless of whether the MEC supplied the film. The MEC then granted
those rights to Noel. Now that copyrights had expired, the publication rights were arguably no longer governed by the
1911 Copyright Act, but by the 1996 Regulations. The Regulations awarded the publication right to the owner of the film.
The 1923 agreement between Noel and the MEC did not grant Noel ownership of the copyrights in the expedition member's
photographs. Rather, the agreement was structured to provide the MEC with copyright ownership. The MEC in turn licensed Noel
"the sole rights for the production and exploitation throughout the world of photographs and kinematographic films of the
Expedition to Mt. Everest." The MEC reserved for itself certain rights to use the films in internal lectures and publications. 

To enforce Noel's exclusivity, expedition members were required to sign a written agreement which contained the following terms: 

All photographic collections or observations that I may make shall be deemed to belong to and to have been taken or made by
me as agent for the Committee. 

I further bind myself not to hold any communication with the press or with any press agency or publisher or deliver any public
lecture or allow any photographs taken by me to be published within the period of two years from the date of return of the
Expedition to Darjeeling except by arrangement with Captain J.B.L. Noel.

Perhaps a court could find that the written contracts with the MEC turned the photographs into commissioned works. If so,
the MEC's agreements may have assigned more than just copyright to the MEC. By characterizing the work as done "as agent
for the Committee," the agreement may have assigned all rights, including rights of publication. Under the 1911 Act, copyright
in commissioned works would be owned by the MEC, but their publication rights were exclusively licensed to Noel. Would a
court construe these two agreements as granting Noel ownership of the publication, or MEC? Would Noel's agreement with MEC
cover the publication rights created seventy two years later? 

Certainly adding to the confusion on the legal analysis was the two year embargo on publication placed upon expedition members,
who afterwards appeared free to publish the photographs without restriction. The two year embargo expired in June of 1926,
two years after the surviving members returned to Darjeeling. This might imply that the MEC's rights were more limited, and thus
Noel's exclusive license may be limited as well. 

Certainly the scope of the earlier 1922 agreements with Finch had been hotly contested. Recall that Finch alleged that he had
supplied his own film and equipment without reimbursement. If true, this may have vested Finch with ownership of the publication
rights to any unpublished film under the 1996 Regulations. Could heirs of the 1924 expedition member make the same
arguments as Finch? If Mallory or Irvine's heirs or perhaps Graham Hoyland could persuade fact finders that the film had
not been provided by Noel or the RGS, surely the answer of who owned the British publication rights would become more
complicated than ever. 

The Copyright That Almost Was 

In the United States, where the found film would likely be developed and where the publication rights would be particularly
valuable, the possible existence of a U.S. copyright was relevant. A U.S. court might consider English law in determining who
owned a copyright, but they would still apply United States law to determine whether a copyright still existed. As with British
copyright law, the legal analysis was no less complicated. 

Under current U.S. law, copyright begins immediately upon the creation of the work, or more precisely, the moment the
expression becomes defined in a tangible medium. Applied to photography, this meant that copyright exists once image is
exposed on the film negative. Once fixed, copyright then exists for the life of the author plus 70 years. 

A court would need to examine the 1909 Copyright Act, the law applicable in the U.S. at the time the Mallory and Irvine
photographs were created. Photographs did not receive copyright protection in the United States until the Act of March 3, 1865,
following the seminal case of Burrow-Giles Lithographic Co. v. Saxony. [7]The U.S. did not join the Berne Convention until 1989;
therefore under the 1909 U.S. Copyright Act, copyright did not arise until a work was either published with a correct
copyright notice or, if unpublished, registered with the Copyright Office. Once published correctly or registered, copyright in
such works lasted for 28 years, and if renewed by filing a notice of renewal for the copyright, would last another 28 years
for a total term of 56 years. 

As with English law prior to 1911, the requirements of publication or registration under the 1906 Copyright Act created an odd
purgatory for works that had been created, but were never published or registered. They were not denied copyright, as
either proper publication or registration would produce a protected copyright. However, they were not protected by U.S.
federal law until such acts occurred. Their only protection was under state or common law copyright law, if at all. This is
precisely the condition the unpublished Mallory/Irvine photographs remained until 1978, when the amended U.S. Copyright
Act (the 1976 Act) took effect. The 1976 Copyright Act abolished common law copyright in the U.S.[8], conferring copyright
protection upon creation of a work. To confront the matter of existing unpublished works, however, the U.S. Congress
abolished state based common-law copyright and gave such unpublished works protection under federal copyright law.[9]
Photographs under the 1976 Act were protected for the life of the author plus 50 years. Any copyrights in photographs
existing on January 1, 1978, however, would have their terms extended. But since copyright in unpublished works did not
technically exist until publication, this created a dilemma for the U.S. Congress. 

The U.S. Congress resolved the issue by providing additional copyright protection for unpublished works until the end of 2002.
As an additional incentive to authors to publish these works, the 1976 Copyright Act also extended copyright in such works
until 2047 if the authors published the works before the end of 2002. 

The 1999 and 2001 Mallory and Irvine Expeditions therefore faced a Hobson's choice had they had located the film:
If they waited until January 1, 2003, copyright in Mallory's or Irvine's photographs would be extinguished in the U.S. and
the Expedition would be free of claims from the MEC or the heirs of Mallory, Irvine Somervell, or Noel. However, no copyright
would protect the photographs from being copied, and no exclusive publishing contracts could be enforced in the U.S. 

If instead the photographs were released before the end of 2002, the photographs would be protected until 2047,
but the copyright might not belong to the 1999 or 2001 Expedition. Instead, Somervell, Noel, Mallory or Irvine's heirs
would be left to fight it out. This Catch-22 failed to materialize as the 2001 Expeditions did not locate the camera before
the end of 2002, effectively putting an end to a copyright that almost was. 

Unless, of course, the unpublished photographs were determined by a court to be works made for hire. Like the
British 1911 Act, the U.S. 1909 Act also had a bias against photographers as owners of their copyright. Under the 1909
Act, employers and commissioning parties owned the copyrights created by their photographers[10], but the 1909 Act
did not define "employer" or "work-for-hire". Courts looked to the general common law of agency and at least ten relevant
"agency" factors to determine whether a photographer was an employee or an independent contractor, to determine
whether a party was commissioned to produce a work.[11] 

Because Mallory and Irvine had considerable freedom and discretion over if, what, when, and how they were supposed
to photograph works, it is highly unlikely a U.S. court would find them to be employees, and even so, would they be employees
of John Noel, or employees of the Expedition? No, a court awarding copyright to Noel or the MEC would more likely be willing
to find the photographs to be "commissioned works" (if at all) under either U.S. or British law"[12], and the contract Mallory
and Irvine signed indicated that the Expedition was the commissioning party, with the publication rights exclusively
licensed to Noel. 

As the MEC had assigned those rights exclusively to Noel, the distinction as to the commissioning party was largely without
a difference. Unpublished photographs determined to be works made for hire under the 1909 U.S. Copyright Act are protected
from 120 years from creation.[13] Therefore, it is entirely possible that if a court found the photographs to be commissioned
works, at least in the U.S., copyright in the Mallory or Irvine photographs continues to exist until 2044. If so, Noel's heirs may
be the party that controls any remaining copyrights to the photographs at least within the U.S. 

Finders Keepers? 

Even if the heirs of the 1924 Expedition members could resolve the ownership dispute as between them, there would remain
the matter of rights held by the finder of the camera. The ultimate conclusion of who rightfully owned the camera and the
film could determine who owned the publication rights under British copyright law. On this issue, there would be no absence
of applicable law, only the thorny question of which country's law to apply. 

"Finder's Keepers", one of the most repeated yet misinterpreted phrases applied to found property, was originally developed
in feudal times to determine the rightful owner of buried Roman treasure. The rule has been significantly altered by courts
throughout the centuries, and the laws around found property are largely based on English common law. Generally, ownership
of found property depends upon whether the property was lost, mislaid, abandoned, or embedded. Property is "lost" if the
owner parts with it involuntarily and unintentionally, through neglect, carelessness, or inadvertence and does not know the
whereabouts. [14]"Mislaid property" is that which the owner has intentionally set down in a place where he can retrieve it,
but then forgets where he put it. "Abandoned property" is where the owner has discarded or voluntarily forsaken the property
with the intention of terminating his ownership, but without vesting ownership in any other person. Finally, embedded property
is personal property which has become a part of the natural earth (like pottery or a sunken wreck, buried or partially buried in
the ground). Only lost property necessarily involves the element of involuntariness; the other four categories require that the
true owner voluntary and intentionally place the property where someone eventually finds it. 

The distinction between the various types of found property determines the rights of the owner versus the finder. Finders
of lost property usually prevail against all but the rightful owner, regardless of where the property is found. Finders of mislaid
property may be required to turn it over to the owner of the premises who prevails against all but the rightful owner. Finders
of abandoned property prevail against all others, including the original owner, regardless of where the property is found.
Finally, finders of embedded property lose out to the owner of the premises on which the property is found. While a jury
decides the facts of a dispute, the characterization of the found property is decided by a court. [15] 

Certainly, the oxygen bottles discarded by Mallory and Irvine would fall into the "abandoned" category, as oxygen canisters
were routinely tossed aside when empty. It is highly unlikely, however, that Mallory or Irvine intended to part with the camera,
and therefore it would fall either into the category of lost or mislaid property. Unless the camera was found on Irvine's body,
determining ownership as between Mallory's and Irvine's heirs would prove difficult, because it may not be clear which of the
two climbers lost his camera. And if Somervell's story to his nephew is believed, Graham Hoyland may be the rightful owner
of the camera. 

The owner of the camera may not necessarily own the valuable film inside. While all signs point to Noel as the likely provider
of all film for the expedition, such was not the case in 1922 where Finch and others had brought their own camera and film.
Certainly Mallory was known to have brought his own camera and perhaps his own film. 

Nepal introduced an additional complication into the question of property ownership: after the widespread publicity surrounding
the found Mallory artifacts, climbers seeking access to Everest from the south are required to obtain a climbing permit from Nepal,
and Nepal officials revised the permit and rules following the 1999 Expedition in order to seek control over artifacts found on
Everest. However, Irvine's body and the camera are actually be located within Tibet, now under Chinese control, raising the possibility
that the Nepalese permit may not control property found on Tibetan soil, but may attempt to assert control if the
artifacts are brought into Nepal, as may be necessary for explorers who depart from Kathmandu. 

Little had Eric Simonson known in 2001 that the challenge in determining ownership had little to do with the applicable law,
and everything to do with the cloudy facts of the original 1924 Expedition. 

The Search for the Camera Continues 

Despite more than three additional known attempts to locate Irvine's body, it remains today lost somewhere on Everest.
Graham Hoyland, who has never doubted his uncle's story, now thinks that the camera probably lies buried under tons of snow
and ice at the bottom of the Rongbuk glacier. He recently made a summit attempt to Everest wearing an exact replica of
the climbing outfit worn by Mallory, in an effort to prove that Mallory could have made it to the summit and survived to climb
back down. His experiences demonstrated the effectiveness of the materials worn by Mallory, and again added further
support to the premise that Mallory reached the top of Everest.[16][17]

To avoid the added complication of the Nepalese permits, newer expeditions seeking the camera have been very low key.
With tons of equipment to inspect, Nepalese officials would be hard pressed to identify any specific artifacts, unless expedition
leaders had called media attention to their search.

Considerable competition also remains amongst various climbing groups to locate Irvine's body and the camera, often
leading to unintentionally humorous results. In 2004, Hoyland and the BBC group again found themselves on Everest searching
for the camera, at the same time as two of the original 1999 Expedition members who were still searching for Mallory and Irvine
artifacts. The reason for both groups presence on the mountain was publicly disguised. Yet as the BBC realized that the other
group was actually quite high on the mountain and in the search area where Irvine's body is thought to lie, Eric Simonson
suddenly received a hurried email from BBC producers. They suggested potential collaboration between the two, including
sharing the outcome of any successful find. 

The failure to find Irvine and the camera has not diminished public interest in Mallory and Irvine's summit attempt.
Exhibition of the artifacts from the 1999 and 2001 Mallory and Irvine Expeditions enjoyed tremendous success.
The WSHS exhibit set attendance records, and a previous exhibit by the National Geographic Society at their Explorer's Hall
in Washington, DC, enjoyed equally large audiences during its brief display. Members of both the 1999 and 2001 expeditions
published numerous successful books, each detailing their experiences and providing their own analysis of Mallory and
Irvine's potential success.

The many surviving photographs of the 1921, 1922 and 1924 attempts are scattered across several collections.
Sandra Noel manages the collections of her father and produced a book, "Everest Pioneer: The Photographs of Captain
John Noel". She also manages the access rights to Noel's 1924 film of the failed summit attempt, "Epic of Everest" which
is now in the public domain within UK and the United States. 

George Finch's photographs are now held by the George Ingle Finch collection. Photographer Bentley Beetham,
a photographer who was not directly under Noel's control but who shot photographs for the military, provided many
photographs which are now held by RGS, who also administers Howard Somervell's photos. Edward Norton's photographs
are held and administered by the British Alpine Club. Reproductions and prints of these various photographs are found
in many libraries and collections. 

Some day, climbers may ultimately locate the body of Sandy Irvine, likely to be as well preserved as Mallory's.
As they search his body, they may locate a small Vest Pocket Kodak, holding the silver colored cartridge of
undeveloped film. Taking pains to place the film cartridge in a properly lined shielded storage box, expedition leaders
could publicly announce their find, or more likely following a well-rehearsed plan to quietly remove the film to insure
it does not fall into the hands of unfriendly custom officials who may delay its exploitation, or worse, destroy the
film's unexposed images. The Chinese in particular do not want their first ascent of Everest from the north in 1960
plucked away by a possible Mallory & Irvine first ascent. 

They will quickly transport the box to a waiting developing lab, and as the film is carefully thawed, exposed and
the negatives developed, the images may reveal one of the world's great conquests, or perhaps cast only more
doubt on whether Mallory or Irvine made it to the summit. Lawyers for various heirs and claimants will ready their
motions, and perhaps (though unlikely) the world may wait a bit longer before the first photograph is published as
the various sides argue their various positions and facts. 

But hopefully one day, a photograph will end the debate. Regardless of the legal outcome of ownership, the
photograph may provide the answer as to the success of two pioneers who had but one goal for which they gave
their lives. To make it to the top of the world. 

Authors Acknowledgement:. The author is grateful for the assistance, information, feedback and kind ears provided
by Graham Hoyland, Charlie Borst, Wade Davis, Sandra Noel, Eric and Erin Simonson, George Martin of EverestNews.com,
UK attorney Ian Craig, the staff of The Washington State Historical Society, Ian) Professor Tom Fischer, author Gary Kinder,
and of course, the encouragement of my wife Tanya who indulged my fascination with this story for several years.
 

__________________________________________________________________________________

Endnotes


[1] Claire has since died.
[2] The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine, Holzel & Salkeld, 1986.
[3] See generally Bridgeman Art Library. Ltd. v. Corel Corgi 36 F.Supp.2d 191 (S.D.N.Y.) 1999 regarding discussion of conflicts
of laws in copyright cases.

[4] Donaldson v. Bleckett, (1774) 2 Brown's Perogative Cases; Cobbett's Parliamentary History XVII 954.
[5] Naomi Rosenblum, A World Naomi Rosenblum, A World History of Photography 210 (3d ed.1997)
[6] The 1911 Act also classified photographs as artistic works, but treated photographs differently when addressing
ownership and copyright duration, whereas the 1988 Act dispensed with such prejudices against photography, treating it
now the same as other artistic

[7] 111 U.S. 53, U.S. 1884. More than 100 years after Burrow-Giles, the understanding of the extent of copyright protection
for photographs continues to evolve. See Mannion v. Coors Brewing Co., 377 F.Supp.2d 444 (S.D.N.Y., 2005), and SHL
Imaging, Inc. v. Artisan House. Inc., 117 F.Supp.2d 301 (S.D.N.Y., 2000) for a thorough discussion of the history and basis
 for copyright protection of photographs in the U.S.

[8] Pre-1972 sound recordings remained protected by state law.
[9] U.S.C. Section 303
[10] 17 U.S.C. Section 26 (1909 Act)
[11] Community for Creative Non-Violence v. Reid,490 U.S. 730 (1989).
[12] U.S. Courts will often look to the country with the most significant relationship to the property and the parties in
determining which law to apply, if British law were applied, it is highly likely the MEC would be deemed to be the copyright owner.
See Itar-Tars Russian News Agency v. Russian Kurier, Inc, 153 F.3d. 82 (1998)

[13] Originally protected for 100 years, the U.S. Congress added an additional 20 in the Copyright Term Extension Act of 1998.
[14] Corliss v. Wenner, 34 P.3d 1100, 1103 (2001)
[15] Courts have been historically reluctant to hold that found human remains and their related artifacts are “abandoned”
and therefore owned by the finder. See e.g., Charrier v. Bell, 496 So. 2d 601, Louisiana Appellate Court, 1986 citing
Blancherot v. Couilhy, Bordeaux 6. Aug. 1806, 38 Dalloz Jurisprudence Generale, Sec. 186 n.1 (1857).

 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

Claims of Irvine Family, Alpine Club and Royal Geographical Society

http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/alpineclub/bodies.htm 

The Alpine Club makes the following recommendations to those seeking to find the body of
Sandy Irvine who lost his life with George Mallory on Everest's North Ridge in 1924.

Dead climbers found on mountains naturally evoke strong and often conflicting emotions but especially feelings of sadness and respect. 
Such are the mythic proportions of the Mallory/Irvine tragedy that despite natural reverence and respect for their bodies, historical investigations
will inevitably intrude.  The Irvine family has therefore approached the Alpine Club for help in identifying appropriate conduct to be observed should
Sandy Irvine's body be found.

CONSULTATION

1.1    To consult with the Irvine family through John Irvine, Chairman of the Sandy Irvine Trust as follows:

1.2     periodically before departing for Everest

1.3     from the mountain before information is given to anyone else, particularly the media and any sponsors and also

1.4     immediately on return from the mountain and then shortly after to submit a full and comprehensive report

1.5     John Irvine's address is: Email John.Irvine@dial.pipex.com

THE BODY

2.1       Expeditions finding the body of Sandy Irvine should bear in mind that the Irvine family would prefer, as does the Alpine Club, that his body be
left in peace, especially as there are still relatives alive who knew him.  The family, however, recognise that there are many people interested in the
fate of Mallory and Irvine and that finding a camera might be the best indication as to whether or not they actually reached the summit of Everest. 
They are therefore facing up to the possibility of Sandy Irvine's body being found and request it to be treated with the utmost respect.

2.2      The body, if found, should be searched with the greatest care to avoid damaging the frozen body, as happened to that of George Mallory during
a second search for more artefacts, a few days after the first encounter. 

2.3       A major effort should be made for the body to be committed and covered with stones if at all practicable.

2.4       The body should thereafter remain untouched.  In Britain and many other countries it is illegal to disinter a body without a Court Order. 
This practice should be respected in the mountains.

PERSONAL BELONGINGS

3.1       The family lay claim to all personal belongings found on the body and request they are returned  to the Trustees.  The trust exists to preserve
the good name of Sandy Irvine; to look after archival material and artefacts relating to his life and death and ultimately to benefit mountaineering charities
by making donations from any monies coming into the trust from reproduction fees and loan fees.

3.2       The Alpine Club fully supports the family's claim that all personal effects be returned to them as that is their request.  It is also logical to have all
artefacts in one place and convenient for mountaineering historians.

PHOTOGRAPHY

4.        Published photographs in the media or in books of any mountaineer's body can be most distressing to surviving relatives.  The Alpine Club
therefore strongly supports the family's request that they are consulted before any photographs of  Sandy Irvine's body are published and that the family
have the right to veto any image for publication for whatever reason.

Those seeking to find Sandy Irvine's body and camera may do so in a genuine, if obsessive spirit of enquiry.  They may, if successful in their search,
be taken by surprise at the media's insatiable desire for images of the body and an account of the gruesome details.  They should be prepared for this
eventuality and avoid acting in a distasteful way that may later be regretted.  It should always be upper most in the minds of those who find the body that
the media tend to be anonymous and unaccountable, as well as distant from the family and they exist primarily to sell their product.  It is one thing to have
a photograph showing the final resting place, on Everest, of Sandy Irvine and George Mallory in a definitive book on the subject or in an alpine journal,
but quite another to have images splashed across the pages of the popular press for promotional purposes and financial gain.

Doug Scott - President
Patrick Fagan - Vice President
Martin Wragg - Vice President
Paul Braithwaite - Vice President 1999-2000

22 January 2001

___________________________________________________________________________________

RGS Claims

http://web.archive.org/web/20020421005942/http://www.rgs.org/templ.php?page=15med002 


(posted 15.05.2001)

Following the discovery of George Mallory’s body in 1999 a number of people are currently searching for the body of his companion, Sandy Irvine,
who lost his life at the same time as George Mallory on the flanks of Mount Everest in 1924.

It is possible that the discovery of Sandy Irvine’s body and personal belongings, including the camera he is thought to have had with him at the time,
will reveal whether he and George Mallory reached the summit of Mount Everest.

The Royal Geographical Society (with IBG) recognises that such a discovery would critically alter the history of exploration and mountaineering
in the Himalayas. The Society has also been in close liaison with the families of Mallory and Irvine. Accordingly the Society wishes to make available
the following information;

1.                               The body of Sandy Irvine, if found, should be treated with the respect properly due to the dead, and the Society endorses, without reservation,
the recommendations in the press release issued by the Alpine Club on 22 January 2001.

2.                              The camera, which it is thought Mallory and Irvine carried with them on their last climb was a vest-pocket Kodak camera.
The Society believes that the camera belongs to the heirs and assigns of Howard Somervell, a member of the 1924 Expedition.

3.                              Any photographic film found in or near the camera or Sandy Irvine’s body is the property of the Royal Geographical Society (with IBG).

The Royal Geographical Society (with IBG) asks that all those involved in the quest to discover the full story of Mallory and Irvine’s attempt to reach
the summit of Everest in 1924 have regard to the following guidelines;

1.                               All information discovered about the fate of Mallory and Irvine should be communicated first to their respective families and to the
Royal Geographical Society (with IBG).

2.                              No information should be communicated to any representative of the press prior to consultation with the families and the Royal
Geographical Society (with IBG).

3.                              Personal belongings should be kept safe and returned to their owners’ families. 

4.                              Photographic film, if found, should be returned to the Royal Geographical Society with IBG).

- ends -

 

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Contract Terms Governing the Ownership of Irvine’s VPK Camera Images
By Tom Holzel
Rev 12 Oct 2010 

The claims of family members, the (British) Alpine Club and the Royal Geographical Society regarding ownership of Andrew Irvine’s Vest Pocket
Camera (VPK) and any possible images therein are quite clear: they demand everything found on the mountain by anyone. What is less clear is
on what basis these claims are being made.  Let us look at the contract the RGS and the AC signed in exchange for funding from Captain John Noel
for the 1924 Expedition. 

The second paragraph of the Agreement between the Mount Everest Committee (MEC) of the Royal Geographical Society (RGS) and the
Alpine Club (AC) reads in part: 

In consideration of the payments [£8,000, equal to $400,000 today] to be made by Captain John Noel to the Committee as hereafter
mentioned the Committee grant to Captain John Noel the sole rights for the production and exploitation throughout the World of
photographs and Kinematographic films of the expedition to Mount Everest
in the year of One thousand nine hundred and twenty four
Together with the control of public lecturing subject to Clause 9 hereof. [Emphasis added.] 

Paragraph 8 states that the Committee may itself use Noel’s photographs “for illustrations in the journals of the Royal Geographical Society,
the Alpine Club, the Official Book of the Expedition, private exhibitions of photographs and lectures at meetings of the Royal Geographical Society
and the Alpine Club but”--

…the Committee will not at any time dispose of any such [photographic] prints or slides to the public press or organize public lectures for profit. 

The paragraph 9 referred to above states that expedition members may give lectures “provided they are delivered by arrangement with Captain Noel.”
This agreement to be enforced for two years after the return of the expedition. After two years, i.e., mid-1926, the expedition members  (not their heirs)
would be permitted to give public lectures and allow their photographs to be published without Committee permission.  

Thus, the rights to the photographs contained within the VPK camera assumed to be with Andrew Irvine fall under the provisos of belonging solely
to Captain Noel but they may be used for public lectures by the expedition member who took them. In addition, the expedition members are acting
as agents for the Committee, thus giving the Committee the rights to the photos in order to sell those rights to Captain Noel.

The agency clause is found in the “Schedule”—a contractual agreement that all expedition members were obliged to sign, which stated: 

All photographs, collections or observations that I may make shall be deemed to belong to and have been taken or made by me
as agent for the Committee. 

Thus, in paragraph two the Committee assumes an ownership of expedition member photographs the photos that it then sold to Captain Noel
without any limitation. However, The Schedule allows expedition members to publish their own photos after two years. 

In short, Captain Noel (and his heir) has sole world rights to the photos except that Andrew Irvine —not the RGS or The AC--had the right to publish them.

Nowhere in the agreement is there even a suggestion that the RGS or the Alpine Club were given rights to the VPK photos taken by Irvine or by any
expedition member. Nowhere in the contract are any ownership rights passed to the expedition members who took the photos as they were merely “agents for
the Committee”--which sold these rights to Captain Noel.

 

In addition, Graham Hoyland claims that he was told by his uncle, Howard Somervell, that he had loaned his VPK to Mallory just prior to his final
attempt. It is known that both climbers took a VPK camera. Hoyland first claimed all rights to Mallory's camera. It was not found, so
now he claims ownership of Irvine's camera and its eventual VPK photos. Clever. This, in spite of the near certainty that all VPKs were supplied to the
climbers out of the pool of 14 cameras that Captain Noel brought along and handed out to the climbers. 

The Cosmic Questions then are: 

1.    Having sold all photo rights to Captain John Noel, on what legal basis do the RGS and the AC now claim any rights at all
to the VPK images?

2.    Why have the photos taken by expedition members Colonel Norton and Dr. Howard Somervell been held exclusively by the RGS
and the AC and administered by them to their profit?

3.  On what contractual basis does Graham Hoyland, who first claimed all rights to Mallory's camera, now claim all rights to Irvine's camera? 

Although none of these questions have ever been addressed by the claimants, this has not prevented them from acting as if they were
rightful owners. Eric Simonson, leader of the 1999 Everest expedition which found Mallory’s body was harassed by RGS obduracy
for over a year over the ownership of the Mallory artifacts. Although the likelihood of summit photos being contained within Irvine’s
VPK are slim to none, if present, they would document a huge historical reversal—worth a fortune--and create a feeding frenzy
by heirs and organizations that would make many lawyers rich--and cause Mallory & Irvine to turn in their graves in disgust
at the rank avarice of it all.

 

 
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