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This Artist/Maker
Classification
Curatorial

Costume and Textiles

Woman's Dinner Jacket

Made in Paris, France

Fall 1937

Elsa Schiaparelli, French (born Italy), 1890 - 1973, in collaboration with Jean Cocteau, French, 1889 - 1963. Embroidered by Lesage, Paris, founded 1922.

Linen, gilded metallic thread embroidery, beads, and paillettes
Waist: 28 1/4 inches (71.8 cm) Center Back Length: 20 3/4 inches (52.7 cm) Circumference (Bust): 34 1/2 inches (87.6 cm) Hips: 35 1/2 inches (90.2 cm)

Currently not on view

1969-232-22

Gift of Mme Elsa Schiaparelli, 1969

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Additional information:
  • PublicationShocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli

    Schiaparelli’s close friendship with Jean Cocteau led to his making two drawings for her, which she used in her fall 1937 collection. Cocteau’s extraordinary ability to create form by the use of a single line is evident in these designs, translated into embroidery by the firm of Lesage. This Cocteau design, on the gray linen jacket of a dinner ensemble, is of a woman’s head in profile with long golden hair flowing down one of the jacket sleeves. Schiaparelli’s collaborations with Cocteau included supplying costumes for the actress Jany Holt for Cocteau’s play Les Monstres sacrés (The Holy Terrors) in 1940 and for actress Maria Casarès in Robert Bresson’s film Les Dames du Bois de Boulogne (The Ladies of the Park), with dialogue by Bresson and Cocteau, in 1945. Dilys E. Blum, from Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli (2003), p. 140.