Carbon farming excitement

I recently spent three days in Dubbo with a diverse group of farmers and scientists, learning about and discussing ideas that are at the absolute cutting edge of farming technology.

I was at the fifth annual Carbon Farming Conference & Expo, run by the Carbon Farmers of Australia, who have been working hard to get carbon farming on the national agenda. I was lucky enough to meet Michael and Louisa Kiely, the hard working team behind the Carbon Farmers, who have spent a great deal of their own time, energy and money putting the case to government that farmers should be recognised and rewarded for their sustainable farming practices.

The central idea of “carbon farming” is that by taking carbon from the atmosphere and storing it in the soil through various farming techniques, we can address many of the major risks currently facing humanity such as climate change, food security, and loss of soil fertility. Carbon is essential for soil fertility and is involved in many cycles and processes in the soil and the atmosphere.

This is a big idea, but one that is rapidly gaining momentum in political and scientific circles. This conference was particularly exciting and timely because the landmark Carbon Farming Initiative (CFI) legislation has just been passed by the Federal parliament as part of the Clean Energy Futures package. This legislation not only formally recognises the good science behind the notion of carbon farming, but also lays out a mechanism by  which farmers and landholders will be paid for the carbon they sequester–a truly innovative concept.

In a nutshell what I plan to summarise with coming blog entries goes as follows: globally we are facing potential risks such as climate change, food security, loss of topsoil, decreasing soil fertility, water shortages and declining human health – thinking of them as risks rather than problems makes redundant the argument about whether climate change is real…regardless of the truth (which none of us can know, not being able to predict the future), it is nevertheless good global risk management to address these risks.

These risk factors have increased in the last 100 years due partly to declining carbon levels in the soil, while at the same time carbon levels in the air have increased.  Soil has the capacity to act as a huge sink in which carbon can be stored. Putting carbon back into the soil decreases CO2 levels in the air, with the co-benefits of increasing fertility, building and retaining topsoil, improving water security, and decreasing pest and disease pressure.

In fact, many farmers have changed the way they farm in recent years because they have learnt by experience that increasing soil carbon improves their farm and improves their bottom line. For them, reducing atmospheric carbon levels is the co-benefit.

Over the two days of the conference we heard evidence and opinion from a range of scientists, politicians, and experts about various aspects of this innovative new field including new technologies, local and global movements recognising the importance of soil, and the intricacies of how the new legislation will work. I will present this mountain of fascinating information in a simplified form.

We also heard from experienced farmers, all leaders in this field, who already have years of experience in how to actually practice carbon farming at the grassroots level (pun intended). Many of these techniques are already well known to organic, biodynamic, and biological farmers; however, to the mainstream these techniques are still untested and possibly threatening. The new CFI legislation means that putting these techniques into practice can now translate into potential new income streams for all farmers, so it seems timely to start bringing discussion of these “radical” techniques into the open, so nobody is left behind.

If you’re interested in learning about new income streams for farmers, or concerned about climate change, food security, peak oil, declining soil fertility, water conservation, or any related sustainability ideas, I invite you to read, share, and comment on this series of blogs. It’s ALL about carbon…

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Our annual organic audit

Last week we were audited by NASAA (National Association of Sustainably Agriculture Australia), our certifying body. All certified organic producers are audited every 12 to 14  months to ensure we comply with the Organic Standards, a comprehensive document that regulates every aspect of our business to ensure we maintain the high standards required to qualify as an organic producer in Australia.

We started the audit with a farm walk, showing Plamen (the inspector) the whole farm, including all the orchards and our boundaries; we have the Mt Alexander Regional Park on the east border (as you can see in the photo above), open farm land to the south, a disused quarry to the north and a mix of open pasture and a small patch of conventional orchard to the west.Groundcover plants in the new orchard, including clover

Some of the things he asked about while we were walking around included how we control our weeds, the weed mat we’ve used in the new orchard and the types of ground cover plants we have in the orchards. Before we planted the new orchard (including this happy baby plum tree), we sowed a green manure crop, and we’ve been happy to see the amount of clover and herbs that have come up. These plants help to provide the trees with free nitrogen from the air, and other minerals that the plants mine from the ground.

Plamen had a good look at the trees that form a buffer zone between us and our neighbours, and the signs erected at our borders to alert visitors to our organic status. We explained that we prune the trees in the buffer zone differently to trees elsewhere on the property, to make them bushy and leafy as you can see in the photo below, to create an effective spray buffer. We don’t have a fence, just several rows of this variety of plums (President), which are NOT certified organic because of the spray drift. They’re kept completely separate from all our other fruit, and sold separately through the conventional wholesale market.

The packing shed, the spray shed and the coolroom all came under scrutiny next, with lots of questions about the contents of each shed, cleaning schedules, cleaning materials and our harvest, storage and packing systems. We showed Plamen our packaging materials, and explained how we transport fruit to our various markets. An explanations of the contents of the spray shed took a while, as each input that we use on the orchard (such as lime sulphur, calcium, fish hydrolysate, kelp and humic acid) must be individually checked to make sure it’s an organically allowable input. We must supply details of each farm input so NASAA can be sure we’re not introducing any contamination into the farm.

Once the outdoor infrastructure had been inspected, we retired to the warm kitchen for a cuppa and to do the paperwork.

First, we went through our updated Organic Management Plan, which is sent to us prior to the audit, and is our chance to let NASAA know of any changes we’ve made to the farm since our last audit. This year we told them about having planted the new orchard containing 1,000 apricot, peach, nectarine and plum trees, as well as a minor change to the way we input harvest records into our accounting program.

We supplied information about the size of our harvest (broken down by type of fruit), and the value of the crop this season, and provided examples of our harvest record book (see right) and our marketing records.Whenever we pick (most days during the fruit season), we record the date, variety, number of kilograms and which orchard it came from. Once the fruit has been packed we also record the number of first grade, second grade and third grade fruit.

Once packed, the fruit then goes off to a variety of markets – the wholesale market in Melbourne, our various weekend markets or sent off by courier for the online sales, all of which get recorded on our different sales records and then recorded into our financial software.

NASAA needs to test that the producer can track their produce from the point of sale, right back through the system to harvest. It’s important to be able to prove that we are not selling more of any one type of fruit than we are growing, as that would raise the question of where the extra fruit had come from. This is one of the ways the certifying bodies prevent misuse of the certification system; otherwise it would be possible to use the cover of organic certification to sell conventional produce as organic.

All certified organic products in Australia must carry the logo of the certifier (here’s our label), and the use of these logos is also strictly controlled. As a shopper buying anything organic, check for the logo and the word “certified”–anyone can label something as “organic”, but only producers and manufacturers that have been through the rigourious certification process can use a “certfiied organic” label.

Clearly organic certification in Australia is a comprehensive exercise, and is one which can give us all confidence in the organic produce that we buy!

Variety:

INTO CHILLER: PICKED

Date

Block

Quantity (estimates)

Code: dd/mm/var[1]/block

Comments

TOTAL

1sts

2nds

3rds

TOTALS

INTO CHILLER: MARKET RETURN

Date

Quantity

Market

1sts

2nds

TOTALS

FRUIT DESPATCH

Date

Quantity

Delivered to

Delivery by

TOTALS

TOTAL IN TOTAL OUT


[1] See list of variety codes in front of red folder

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Environmental Sustainability

We were honoured this week to receive a farm visit from Victoria’s Commissioner for Environmental Sustainability, Dr Kate Auty. Kate and her entourage walked through our orchard sampling some ripe cling peaches and blood plums, while we had an interesting and broad-ranging conversation about the current state of farming in the Harcourt Valley.

Part of the Commissioner for Environmental Sustainability’s job is to write a “State of the Environment” report; the Raising Women’s Voices tour (which is part of the Victorian Government’s Rural Women Leading Change (RWLC) Program) is to ensure that rural women’s voices are included in the report.

Meeting with the Commissioner was a good opportunity to share some of the difficulties the Harcourt farming community has faced in the last decade. Every year of that decade

Flood in a Harcourt orchard, 2007

has held at least one (and usually more) strong environmental challenge, including drought, severely reduced water allocations, bird plagues, frost, hail and too much rain at the wrong times. The number of orchardists has also declined in that time, with only 20 remaining, on approximately 400 ha of orchard. This continues a trend since the heyday of 1918, when there were 120 growers and 910 ha of orchard.

Greengage, one of 12 plum varieties we grow

It was also a terrific chance to talk about the resilience we are striving for at Mt Alexander Fruit Gardens, in trying to improve the soil with our organic farming methods, as well as seeking diversity in all aspects of our business – from growing more than 80 varieties (spreading our harvest period, income and risk) to the importance of having secure off-farm income.

As a member of the RWLC Loddon Mallee Reference Group, Katie was also asked to co-chair a dinner held at Castlemaine in Kate’s honour, where the Commissioner shared her “Science, Policy, People” framework for action, heard stories about climate action in our community, and engaged in conversation about how governments might form policy that more accurately reflect the action that people on the ground are taking.

Katie with Mt Alexander Shire Mayor Janet Cropley, and Dr Kate Auty

The dinner was well attended by a range of women from farms, commercial and service sectors, media, local and state governments, education and health services, environment, primary industry, planning and community development and the arts – a most diverse and dynamic group of women.

A member of Kate’s team will be revisiting the region later in the year to make a number of case studies, including Mt Alexander Fruit Gardens, for inclusion in the report.

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From the chookhouse to the table

For a carnivore, learning how to kill your own meat is a very real way to gain appreciation of the food that goes into your mouth. Animals are a crucial part of any permaculture system, having a role in recycling waste food, providing nutrients, contributing to pest control and (when managed properly) having a positive effect on the landscape. They also contribute an important  protein source to our diet, and raising, feeding and slaughtering your own animals is certainly the most ethical way to eat meat.

Led by Laura, who was tired of working with factory farmed chicken in the restaurant trade, we recently embarked on a very personal “farmyard to table” journey. One of Laura’s goals while wwoofing in Australia was to learn how to slaughter meat for herself, so she bought some 6 week old roosters at the Castlemaine Farmers Market. They were penned next to the rest of our flock so they had company, under a beautiful shady cypress tree with a shed for shelter, and fed a plentiful diet of rain-damaged cherries and other fruit, local biodynamic wheat, household scraps and grass and weeds from around the farm.

When the boys were big enough, slaughter day arrived. Laura and Hugh had researched and constructed a killing cone to facilitate a low-stress experience for the roosters. They were upended in the cone, their heads pulled down to expose the neck, and the heads removed with one quick and decisive stroke, using a very sharp knife. The cone contained the flapping and involuntary movement, and allowed free drainage of the blood. Everyone that was home attended the slaughter and those that felt comfortable to do so killed a chicken – a challenging but worthwhile experience.

Slaughter day was one of the many rainy days we’ve had recently, so we set up a table in the shed for plucking and gutting. The birds were dipped briefly in hot water to loosen the feathers, then in cold water so they didn’t cook! The water might have been a bit hot at the start, because the first bird we dipped did not pluck easily, and the skin tore when pulling the feathers out, but the others were all ok. There were five of us on the job and five birds, so we took one each. Hugh and Laura showed the rest of us how to remove the feet and gut the birds – it seems difficult until you do it, but is actually quite easy.The birds were then rinsed, and put in the chiller to rest. Having put many, many hours into menu planning, Laura then embarked on three days of cooking, culminating in the most AMAZING dinner. Here’s the menu:To do justice to the occasion we surprised Laura with our black-tie glam.The food was, quite simply, amazing. First course, made with the chicken tenders (the part under the chicken breast), was poulet en pappillotte. When these divine little parcels were pierced the most heavenly scent was released, and the julienned cabbage, leek, carrot, capsicum and ginger in the parcel with the chicken were tender and delicious. A wonderful dish that started the evening with a tantalizing taste of what was to come.

The creamy mushroom soup for second course was a simple soup made from the most tasty chicken stock I’ve ever tried, with the addition only of cream, mushrooms and a little crunchy bacon. It was accompanied by crispy toast with a most delicious pate made from the chickens’ livers.

The next dish was a thoughtful blend of flavours and textures that came together to make a perfect dish! Chicken confit (the tenderest, most tasty chicken that had been slow cooked in butter) was combined with bitter rocket, crunchy fennel, sweet orange segments and a balsamic dressing. It was a taste sensation!

The fourth course was, I think, my favourite. A seared chicken breast sat on top of a bed of chicories (radicchio, treviso and little gem lettuces), topped with a poached egg, roasted parsnip and beet slices, and a bagna cauda sauce, made with anchovies, garlic and butter. This was such a delicious blend of flavours that I must admit to licking the plate, and had to be restrained from licking everyone else’s plates as well! Though each dish was quite small we were starting at this point to feel extremely well fed…but we moved on…

The last of the savoury dishes was a masterpiece. One of the roosters was older than the others, and consequently had a darker and gamier meat. Laura made a feature of the extra flavour of the meat by cooking it with brown butter and marjoram, and using it to stuff pierogie – Polish dumplings made to a recipe handed down in her family from her Polish grandmother. The pierogie were presented on a smear of herbed sour cream and accompanied by caramelized onion, Lambert cherries, toasted almonds and a balsamic reduction.  This was extraordinary food!

One of Laura’s aims was to incorporate chicken into each course, and her creative solution for the dessert course was to use crispy honey chicken skin as a garnish for her white nectarine jello confection that included ginger, coconut, orange cream and tuille – a beautifully moulded thin biscuit on the side. This sweet but light concoction was offset with an orange reduction and a cherry reduction (“why use one sauce when you can use two?”) and was the perfect way to finish a perfect meal.

This was the sort of meal that most ordinary mortals might get to experience only a few times in their lifetime, and we felt privileged that Laura provided this experience for us. She assures us it was also a huge treat and a great experience for her!!

To be involved with buying, feeding and slaughtering the animals and then to be present at the dinner was a special experience for our family, along with our wwoofers Melissa, Kirsten and Laura. Laura clearly has a talent for designing and executing beautifully balanced dishes, but she also has a passion to further pursue the connection from farm to table in her future career, which we are going to watch with great interest!

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Cherry pie

A rainy day at this time of year (as it was today) means a day in the kitchen preserving fruit, and cherry pie is just the beginning!

But first I have to share the beautiful photo that Christine, one of our serial farm visitors, shared with us to show the fruits of her labour with our fruit!

Aren’t they gorgeous? From left to right, we have Rainier conserve, Lambert conserve, Rainiers in cognac and Lambert in cognac – wow! It’s so satisfying to see our produce prepared so beautifully – thanks Christine, they look amazing!

So, feeling inspired by Christine’s efforts, the team (Kirsten, Melissa, Laura and myself) got to work on the cherries I had set aside for home use.  We started with modest ambitions of drying some cherries, and did two batches – one in the electric dehydrator and one in the oven (here’s Kirsten a-la Rosie the Riveter about to put a batch in the oven), as we couldn’t use the new home-made solar dehydrator in this weather – more posts to follow! Next was a batch of cherries stewed with star anise, cinammon and cloves, which we bottled.

Then the baking started. Oh, my goodness – dried cherry and oatmeal cookies (so named by our American guests), two types of muffin (cherry and chocolate, and cherry, peach & coconut) and cherry and peach scones. Hmmm, so that was morning tea taken care of.

Then thoughts turned to dessert. Laura got excited about making a cherry tarte tatin, which started with sugar, dotted butter and some fantastic Sam cherries in a frying pan. They simmered away until the liquid reduced to a delicious syrupy consistency.cherry_pie

The pie dough then goes on top of the cherries and into the oven, and once cooked, the tarte is upturned on a plate, and eaten with creme anglaise. Oh yeah…..

For most people, that would have been enough, but we still had to have…cherry pie. Two cherry pies, in fact. Melissa braved the elements to pick some rhubarb to make a rhubarb and cherry sauce to serve with the pies, and Kirsten and Laura got creative with some divine lattice work – note the cherry on top of one pie, and the goat on top of the other, in honour of our friends at Holy Goat cheese.

February is diet month!

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