Taking the plunge: Shipwrecks, caves and colourful fish on a Cyprus dive holiday

By Arthur Martin

PUBLISHED: 10:10 EST, 10 April 2013 | UPDATED: 08:18 EST, 15 April 2013

The ghostly outline of the ship’s stern could just be made out from the surface.

But the vast size of the Zenobia only became apparent when we began to submerge towards the boat’s 570ft long hull.

It is a monster of a shipwreck and our group of five scuba divers were dwarfed by the giant propellers at the back of the Swedish ferry, which sank half a mile off the southern coast of Cyprus in 1980.

Underwater world: Many holidaymakers head to Cyprus to enjoy its beaches, but don't realise it is also a premier diver spot

Using torches our group began to slowly explore the gloomy moss-covered labyrinth of passages and rooms within the vessel.

There is something fascinating (and a little eerie) about looking at down into the ship's canteen which would have been full of truckers enjoying breakfast during the Zenobia's maiden voyage from Sweden to Syria.

Some 32 years after the accident (which sunk without the loss of any lives), lorries still sit on the main cargo deck, some attached to chains they were tethered to.

Other trucks lie on seabed, 138ft below the surface. They sit alongside industrial machinery, air conditioners, timber, Tonka toys, water bottles and eggs.

The wreck has formed a reputation among scuba divers as one of the best in the world. As I floated through the corroded shell of the ship it was easy to see why.

Aside from the intriguing modern artefacts, we came across a varied selection of Mediterranean sea life.

Large groupers, barracuda, triggerfish, wrasse and a menacing looking moray eel all call the Zenobia their ‘home’.

Life's a beach: Cyprus' picturesque coastline has always been popular with holidaymakers

The wreck, which can be reached from the harbour in Larnaca, is undoubtedly the best dive site off the coast of Cyprus. Although, on a practical note, I would encourage divers of all levels to take an experienced guide with them as it is all too easy to get lost in the myriad of rooms and corridors on the wreck.

Cyprus has always been a favourite summer holiday spot for British tourists and remains so, despite its recent financial troubles, but many don't realise quite how exciting the island is as a dive destination.

The diving scene in Cyprus is certainly not limited to the Zenobia, there are fantastic dive sites close to many of the major seaside resorts in the country.

I was particularly taken with Latchi, a traditional fishing village 10 miles north of the city of Paphos on the west coast.

The pace of life is delightfully slow and the quaint family-run restaurants which sit along the bay were a welcome change from the hectic resorts elsewhere on the island.

Latchi has oodles of charm and there are enough activities on offer for those who tire of their sun-loungers.

It is also one of those places where you can fit in two dives in the morning and be back in one of the restaurants in time for a traditional mezze lunch.

Ghost ship: The Zenobia and the trucks travelling aboard her now make fascinating dive sites

Our group were taken in a small power boat to a nearby island called St George’s by several enthusiastic British guides from Latchi Watersports Centre.

As the temperature reached 32C, we wasted no time in hurling ourselves into the warm clear waters of the Mediterranean. With a water temperature of 27C and visibility of over 80ft, conditions were ideal as we submerged into an underwater garden off St George’s.

After the excitement and intensity of the Zenobia, the dives off Latchi were far more serene. Our first of the day was a vertical drop down a natural underwater wall where colourful sea slugs awaited us at the bottom.

This was followed by a dive into the lesser-known Mazaki Reef, which is rarely explored because it is much more exposed to the swell of the waves. The reef proved to be a charming underwater vista which was home to a variety of fish and sea creatures.

Over on the east coast of Cyprus there are similar dive sites close to the resort of Protaras, which are suitable for all levels of scuba divers. One that stands out is known as The Caves – a selection of interlinking caverns which we swam through.

Admittedly the narrow gaps between the caves require a certain degree of careful navigation and are not for the claustrophobic. However, I never imagined wriggling through tight underwater caves could provide such an adrenaline rush.

Watery grave: It's possible to swim into the rooms and passageways of the Zenobia

The Caves, which we were calmly navigated through by expat Steve Fox-Kirk from Taba Diving Centre, also provided a useful practice session for the gloomy rooms inside the Zenobia.

The diving scene in Protaras was similar to that in Latchi in that holidaymakers can finish two dives in a morning session while friends or relatives lounge on the beach nearby - after all not everyone wants to spend their entire holiday below the waves.

Once our dives had been completed and lunched enjoyed, our afternoons were often spent spreadeagled on a beach lounger, soaking up the sun. Naturally, a bottle of the local beer was usually close to hand.

Our evening meals tended to consist of large seafood and meat platters, with generous Cypriot waiters burdening our table with far more than we could possibly eat.

At times it seemed like there were more fish on our dinner tables then at some of the dive sites we visited.

Eerie depths: The Caves are not for claustrophobic swimmers, but you can discover incredible creatures

Fish stocks in the waters surrounding Cyrus has become a contentious issue in recent years and some diving instructors say overfishing has led to a decline in the amount of marine life at various dive sites.

However, the authorities in Cyprus are in the process of sinking four large fishing boats at various points off the island this year as part of a £1.5million project that will create five new marine parks.The parks and the surrounding areas will be subjected to a fishing ban to encourage the growth and protection of marine life.

This should, in theory, see a rise in the number of fish at dive sites and make Cyprus an even more exciting watersports destination than it already is.

I will certainly be heading back to visit the new dive wrecks.

Travel Facts

Cyprus Air (http://cyprusair.com 00 357 22 365700) offers flights from £250 return in peak season.

Stay at the Capo Bay Hotel (www.capobay.com 00 357 23 831101), in Protaras, where doubles cost from €120, B&B. Doubles at the Almyra Hotel (www.thanoshotels.com 00 357 26888700), in Paphos, cost from €75pp, B&B. Double rooms from €75pp with breakfast Cyprus Villages (www.cyprusvillages.com.cy 00 357 24332998), in Tochni, offers doubles from €22.50pp.

Two dives with TABA Diving Centre (www.tabadivingcyprus.com 00 357 23832680), in Protaras, cost €60. Zenobia Diving Centre (www.zenobiadive.com 00 357 24656949), in Larnaca, offers two dives from €100. Latchi Watersports Centre, (www.latchiwatersportscentre.com 00 357 26322095) has two dives from €85. And Cydive (www.cydive.com 00 357 26934271), in Paphos offers one dive from €50.