How Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor were bewitched by the glamour of Italian fashion: V&A's newest style exhibition

By Charlie Mccann

PUBLISHED: 05:48 EST, 7 November 2013 | UPDATED: 05:48 EST, 7 November 2013

Classic Hollywood film stars Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor were both women of impeccable - if very different - taste.

And both fell in love with Italian fashion while filming there during the '50s and '60s.

When in Rome, known then as the 'Hollywood on the Tiber', the actresses rushed to the ateliers of emerging Italian designers, dressing themselves from head-to-toe in pieces by local names.

Boosted by the publicity surrounding these superstars, the Italian fashion industry, resurrected in the years immediately following the end of WWII, gained momentum.

'The only word Liz knows in Italian is Bulgari': Elizabeth Taylor wearing Bulgari jewellery (what else?) at a masked ball in Venice in 1967

'The only word Liz knows in Italian is Bulgari': Elizabeth Taylor wearing Bulgari jewellery (what else?) at a masked ball in Venice in 1967

These were the years, for instance, when young couturiers Ottavio Missoni, Gianni Versace, and Giorgio Armani got their start. Today, of course, their influence on the world of fashion is universally recognised by industry-insiders.

Now, the pioneers of Italian fashion are getting kudos from another source: the V&A. The museum announced yesterday that it will document the Italian fashion industry's rise to prominence in an upcoming exhibition. 'The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014' will examine Italy's contribution to fashion from the end of WWII to the present.

 

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'Italian fashion is a story of rags to riches almost, as the post-war country recovers and becomes a key place for manufacture, design and entrepreneurial risk taking that cuts right across businesses,' said curator Sonnet Stanfill. 'This is the compelling story which we describe in the exhibition.'

Shifting perspectives: Fashion show in the 'Sala Bianca' at Florence's Pitti Palace in 1955

Shifting perspectives: Fashion show in the 'Sala Bianca' at Florence's Pitti Palace in 1955

Evening dress of embroidered net and matelasse coat, designed by Mila Schon, 1966

Evening dress of embroidered net and matelasse coat, designed by Mila Schon, 1966

A detail of Mila Schon's coat shows a stunning attention to detail

A detail of Mila Schon's coat shows a stunning attention to detail

'Glamour' will showcase mementos from the landmark 'Sala Bianca' catwalk shows held in Florence from the early '50s. Organised by Giovanni Battista Giorgini, these shows were part of an attempt to change international perceptions of Italian style - and they worked. The 'Sala Bianca' shows successfully established Italy as a viable centre of global fashion and an alternative to Paris.

The V&A show will also explore the impact of the Hollywood films shot on location in Italy when audiences around the world were sighing over glamorous film stars such as Hepburn and Taylor.

Acting as unofficial ambassadors for Italian fashion, these actresses adored the country's couture - and jewels. In fact, when the Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor were in Rome to shoot the film Cleopatra in 1962, Burton once remarked, 'The only word Liz knows in Italian is Bulgari.'

Italian designer Valentino posing with models next to the Trevi Fountain in Rome, 1967

Italian designer Valentino posing with models next to the Trevi Fountain in Rome, 1967

Women's knitted ensemble by Missoni, 1972

Women's knitted ensemble by Missoni, 1972

A suit by Gianni Versace, 1986

A suit by Gianni Versace, 1986

'Glamour', the first show of its kind, promises to be thorough in scope. Opening early April, the exhibition will display around 100 ensembles and accessories from leading Italian fashion houses including Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Missoni, Prada, Pucci, Valentino, and Versace. Lesser-known figures from the annals of post-war fashion like the Fontana sisters and Walter Albini will also be highlighted.

The V&A exhibition will also showcase creations by younger talents. Keep your eyes peeled for couture by Giambattista Valli, ready-to-wear from Fausto Puglisi, and work from Valentino's new designer duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli.

'Over the last five years I have been working to build the V&A's collection of contemporary Italian fashion," said Stanfill. "There has never been a comprehensive overview of Italian fashion like this and it felt like a pivotal moment for the exhibition.'

Evening dress of silk, designed by Roberto Capucci, 1987-1988

Evening dress of silk, designed by Roberto Capucci, 1987-1988

Gianfranco Ferre advert, Fall/Winter 1991

Gianfranco Ferre advert, Fall/Winter 1991

Ankle boots, black leather stiletto heels with gold, white and pink embroidery, designed by Dolce & Gabbana, 2000

Ankle boots, black leather stiletto heels with gold, white and pink embroidery, designed by Dolce & Gabbana, 2000

The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014, sponsored by Bulgari, is at the V&A from 5 April – 27 July 2014. www.vam.ac.uk/italianfashion

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In a word - gorgeous. And the models look so womanly.

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OTT and tacky.

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Speechless. Drooling. Going to consult a wonderful book ( "ITALIANISSIMO : The Quintessential Guide to What Italians Do Best" by Louise Fini & Lise Apatoff ) to re-read the section on "Fashion" so I can form a coherent thought!

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One could wear any of these outfits today and still be relevant,,,,

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Interesting how only the stuff before the 60's were lovely and detailed. Everything made in the 60 's on just got tackier and tackier

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Because the discovered crimpoline and nylon and went mad with it

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Brilliant observation! I think it applies to everything. This is why we have to preserve the best of the past. Europeans understand this. Most Americans do not.

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Elizabeth Taylor was not the best dresser, Audrey was and Italian designers are still the best.

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Italian designers used to head hunt the best fashion students. Many came from Britain.

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Wish I could wear the outfit in pic 3 & 4 to the Christmas party.... gorgeous!

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Ugh how fabulous I would love to see this.

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Valentino was hot!!

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Sloppy caption to Liz Taylor photo. Her outfit & amazing headdress are the costume for her film "Boom!" , designed by Tiziani of Rome.

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