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Monday, October 6, 2014

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In Their Fashion

Elsa Schiaparelli, left, in 1935, and Coco Chanel in 1929.
Left, Fox Photos/Getty Images; right, Sasha/Getty Images

Elsa Schiaparelli, left, in 1935, and Coco Chanel in 1929.

Biographies of Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli highlight their similarities and their differences.

Lydia Burkhalter's collection of gray sweatshirts.
Michael Schmelling

Lydia Burkhalter's collection of gray sweatshirts.

‘Women in Clothes’

In “Women in Clothes,” more than 600 women respond to a survey about how they present themselves.

Couture Fashion Week

To mark the conclusion of the Women’s Spring 2015 shows, T catalogs the bows of some fashion visionaries.

Bill Gaytten with the milliner Stephen Jones.
Lauren Fleishman for The New York Times

Bill Gaytten with the milliner Stephen Jones.

Forced into the forefront, Mr. Gaytten finds his own focus and voice.

Fashion Review

In the End, Perspective

At Paris Fashion Week, Louis Vuitton held its first show in the new Fondation building, Christophe Lemaire sent out his last Hermès collection and Sarah Burton offered an ode to the East at Alexander McQueen.

Fashion Review

The Future? Don’t Get Ahead of Yourself

Collections from Fausto Puglisi at Emanuel Ungaro and Iris van Herpen.

The Chanel fashion protest, designed by Karl Lagerfeld.
Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

The Chanel fashion protest, designed by Karl Lagerfeld.

Fashion Review

Reinventions, Just in Time

Karl Lagerfeld created a fashion demonstration, Hedi Slimane played with his favorite silhouettes and Valentino was inspired by the Grand Tour.

Turn to the Light and Watch Your Back

At Stella McCartney and Chloé, the clothes were relaxed and fluid, while Riccardo Tisci sent out black leather and studs at Givenchy.

Fashion Review

Blood and Roses, Circles and Swans

As Jean Paul Gaultier celebrated, Céline, Undercover, Comme des Garçons and others presented their spring collections.

Fashion Review

Dividing Along Tribal Lines

Brands such as Isabel Marant, Kenzo and Acne reflect the women who wear them.

Fashion Review

A ‘Blank Slate’ Revival at Mugler

David Koma says he wants the brand to make women feel “fierce, cool and sporty.”

The designer describes herself as "slowly invading" her office space.

Esteban Cortazar Returns to the Runway

The former teenage prodigy is relaunching his namesake label with a show at Paris Fashion Week. Here, a first look at the spring/summer 2015 collection.

Fashion Review

The Melting Pot à La Mode

At Dior, Raf Simons continued ideas he first showed at couture in July.
Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

At Dior, Raf Simons continued ideas he first showed at couture in July.

Collections from Raf Simons at Dior, Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, Peter Copping at Nina Ricci and Rick Owens.

Fashion Review

Striving for New Ideas at Loewe

Jonathan Anderson's first full collection for the brand included oversize soft leather trousers, sack dresses and lots of handbags.

Fashion Review

Outside the Spectrum at Chalayan

Mr. Chalayan had some spring references while Issey Miyake, by Yoshiyuki Miyamae, debuted “3-D steam stretch.”

On His Own Terms

Stephan Janson, Milan’s unyieldingly private couturier, in the living room of his apartment wearing a shirt of his own design.
Photograph by Simon Watson. Produced by Marella Caracciolo Chia

Stephan Janson, Milan’s unyieldingly private couturier, in the living room of his apartment wearing a shirt of his own design.

Stephan Janson might have followed in the footsteps of his idol Yves Saint Laurent, but instead chose a quieter life away from the frenzy of the fashion world as a couturier to some of the most discerning women in Europe.

In the Studio

Rick Owens: Secure in His Own World

The designer lives and works in his building in Paris's Seventh Arrondissement.

In the Studio

Alber Elbaz of Lanvin: The Eye, the Mirror, the Screen

There are few furnishings in the Lanvin designer’s office, but they all play a role in his work.

Couture Fashion Week
Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

As the party and auction in Milan pull out the stops, Grace Jones pulls out the wigs, all to raise money for AIDS research.

At Versace, there actually were jackets on the runway.
Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

At Versace, there actually were jackets on the runway.

Even at Versace, homeland of the Glamazon, it seemed as if sex had left the city.

On the Runway Blog

Final Trends and Tidbits to Know From Milan

As the shows came to a close, the conversations continued.

At Prada, the silhouette was lean and the fabrics were  brocade and chinoiserie and leather.
Tiziana Fabi/Agence France-Presse

At Prada, the silhouette was lean and the fabrics were  brocade and chinoiserie and leather.

Fashion Review

The Theme at Milan Fashion Week? Look to the Past

Prada, Etro, Missoni and Marco de Vincenzo all had their own versions for spring.

Front Row

The Catwalk Serves as a Billboard

The cost of staging a fashion show may require corporate sponsors.

Couture Fashion Week
Simone Rocha sent out an explosion of red poppies and other blooms.
Tom Jamieson for The New York Times

Simone Rocha sent out an explosion of red poppies and other blooms.

The old stereotype of crazy creative types no longer really holds true, as designers such as Christopher Kane and Simone Rocha show.

The Burberry collection for spring 2015 included abbreviated denim jackets and floaty skirts.
Tom Jamieson for The New York Times

The Burberry collection for spring 2015 included abbreviated denim jackets and floaty skirts.

Christopher Bailey’s collection was occasionally lovely, but repetitive.

Tom Jamieson for The New York Times

Since introducing her first collection in 2010, she has in short order become one of the highlights of London Fashion Week.

The Collection: A Fashion App for the iPad

Get complete coverage of fashion and style and the latest looks from the runway.

Streetscapes

The Store That Slipped Through the Cracks

The Bonwit Teller store is another vanished landmark of a time when the 57th Street area was the destination of the sophisticated shopper.

In L.A., a New Outpost for European Fashion and Art

Paris Berlin, a new East Hollywood space named for its founders’ home cities, is part boutique, part gallery, part performance venue.

Paris Fashion Week Accessories

Golden brogues with cutouts at Chanel, a cherry-shaped clutch at Undercover and more details from the spring 2015 shows.

Paris Fashion Week Street Style

The street fashion photographer Craig Arend of Altamira NYC took over our Instagram account for the spring 2015 fashion shows. Here are our highlights from Paris Fashion Week. Check out NYTimesFashion on Instagram for more.

On the Runway Blog

A Paris Fashion Week of Farewells

Peter Copping is leaving Nina Ricci, just the latest in a recent series of departures.

Scene City
Scene City: A Final Hurrah to a Fashion Season

Justin Bieber, Karl Lagerfeld and the Kardashians at CR Fashion Book party in Paris.

Scene City

The Star of the Show Is Strapped on a Wrist

At Azzedine Alaïa’s dinner party, Apple’s new watch is on display.

Laurent Cilluffo
International Culture | By the Numbers

The Figures Behind the Catwalk

A look at the four main fashion weeks around the world in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

At Hermès, pieces in goldenrod yellow added pop to an otherwise neutral-toned collection.See the collection.
Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

At Hermès, pieces in goldenrod yellow added pop to an otherwise neutral-toned collection.

See the collection.

See what you missed.

T Magazine
T Magazine
Spring/Summer 2015 Fashion Week

Backstage and front row at the shows.

Putting a Premium on Casual

The once humble-looking statement sweats have proved their staying power.

Browsing

Black Never Goes Out of Fashion

Here are some smart investments to help pull off a head-to-toe dark look.

Pierre Teyssot/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

The barrister’s bespoke cream top and trousers evoked Bianca Jagger’s iconic marriage ensemble.

Gaby Aghion, Founder of Chloé Fashion House, Dies at 93

Ms. Aghion was a designer who played a pivotal role in creating less formal ready-to-wear fashions and brought a working woman’s sensibility to the industry.

On the Runway Blog

Jean Paul Gaultier Gives a Good Party

The designer’s final ready-to-wear show had Champagne, cheers and confetti. It was a night when memories came flooding back.

Behind Jean Paul Gaultier’s Goodbye

As the designer abandons ready-to-wear, there may be lessons to be learned.

Jean Paul Gaultier: Words to Remember Him By

Fashion names tell their favorite Gaultier stories, from Hamish Bowles’s turn on the runway to Coco Rocha’s shared sunset.

Special Report: Watches
Eduardo Recife

The effort to endear Chinese taste makers to fine timepieces has been the defining narrative of the Swiss watch industry for the past 15 years.

Slide Show: Round the Clock in Paris

The French capital is famous for its architecture and its food but also for its light — shimmering on the Seine or gray Second Empire roofs, spires or cobblestones.

Intricate Watch Mechanisms, Designed with Women in Mind

Women's tastes and needs are changing and watchmakers increasingly are acknowledging the change.

Christian Louboutin Shares Stories on Showgirls, Shoes and Theater

In our latest installment of this series, T’s senior market editor, Malina Joseph Gilchrist, interviews the shoe designer at the Studio 54 theater.

A scene from the film “Passage to Dawn,” to be shown by Maiyet during Paris Fashion Week.
Ryan Schude/The Amoveo Company

A scene from the film “Passage to Dawn,” to be shown by Maiyet during Paris Fashion Week.

On the Runway Blog

Fashion’s Just Gotta Dance

At Maiyet, the trend has been turned into a short film directed and choreographed by Benjamin Millepied, the Paris Opéra Ballet’s incoming director.

On the Runway Blog

At Paris Fashion Week, Hedi Slimane’s ‘Sonic’ Exhibit Opens

“Sonic,” an exhibition of black-and-white photographs taken by the Saint Laurent designer, Hedi Slimane, opened on Sept. 18 at the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent.

Antiques

At the Met, Honoring Kimonos and a Scholar of the Same

The work of the textiles historian Terry Satsuki Milhaupt anchors “Kimono: A Modern History,” an exhibition coming to the Met.

ArtsBeat

Costume Institute to Work With Wong Kar-wai in a Show Focused on China

Mr. Wong, the film director, will serve as artistic director for “Chinese Whispers: Tales of the East in Art, Film and Fashion,” opening at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in May.

Jacques Grange's decoration of the Grand Palais for the Biennale des Antiquaires was inspired by Versailles.
Julio Piatti

Jacques Grange's decoration of the Grand Palais for the Biennale des Antiquaires was inspired by Versailles.

The decorative arts fair at the Grand Palais has become less a guidebook on how to live once you’ve made it and more a show to be considered one object at a time.

Milan Fashion Week
Craig Arend for The New York Times

Here are our highlights from show-goers’ style.

Slide Show: Milan Fashion Week Accessories

Barbie-inspired bags at Moschino, ’70s style boots at Gucci and more details from the spring 2015 shows.

London Fashion Week
Craig Arend for The New York Times

Here are our highlights from show-goers’ style.

Slide Show: London Fashion Week Accessories

Fur slippers at Simone Rocha, ear-cuffs at Julien MacDonald and more details from the spring 2015 shows.