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Skincare special: Purify spotty skin

Updated: 14:05 EST, 26 June 2010

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The same general rules for oily/shiny skin apply to acne-prone complexions. Younger skin needs gentle, purifying cleansing and lightweight moisturising (yes, really). And try not to load on heavy foundation, tempting though it can be: instead try mineral make-up with a concealer where necessary. To treat and bring down spots at any age, use a salicylic-acid-based, targeted spot treatment regularly – it will also help to keep breakouts at bay. (Avoid products with benzoyl peroxide, which can irritate and over-dry skin.) For older skin, you may need to soup up your moisturiser to address lines and wrinkles, as well as treating individual flare-ups.

CLEANSER

The Organic Pharmacy Peppermint Facial Wash (£25.95) boasts antibacterial tea tree, antiseptic echinacea, soothing aloe and invigorating peppermint – wonderfully clearing and refreshing. Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser (£7.95) is soothing and non-congesting, leaving skin clean without disturbing its pH balance.

MOISTURISER

Nelsons Pure & Clear Balancing Moisturiser (£7) is light, as well as being oil-, fragrance-, paraben-, SLS- and PEG-free – use morning and evening. If you’re concerned about fine lines and wrinkles, Dr Nick Lowe Super Charged SPF15 Day Cream (£16.99) is a non-comedogenic (ie, doesn’t clog pores), skin-nourishing moisturiser with pomegranate and raspberry, ferulic acid and vitamins A, C and E. At night, older skin will lap up nourishing, antibacterial Kate Logan Beauty Pure Facial Oil (£15.99), with macadamia nut oil and essential oils of cypress and lavender. If you’re taking prescription Retin-A to treat acne, use an SPF15 cream with UVA protection daily.

‘Dab a yellow-toned concealer with a firm, creamy texture on top of a spot and blend out with a cotton bud. Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions Clearing Concealer is medicated so treats and covers in one go [£11.50]’
Make-up artist Jemma Kidd

MASK

Ole Henriksen Blemish Attack Purifying Mask (£35.75) features clays to absorb grime, salicylic acid for its antimicrobial and gently exfoliating action, copper and zinc to help reduce inflammation and an antioxidant cocktail of red, green and white tea to fortify – great for all ages.

SPOT TREATMENT

Dot individual spots with Nelsons Pure & Clear Blemish Gel (£8), which has tea tree, arnica and calendula, plus hypericum (St John’s wort), to help calm and repair blemished skin. Teenagers report that Origins Spot Remover (£10), with salicylic acid, purifying oregano and clove buds, is a small miracle, bringing down flaming zits overnight.

SUPPLEMENT

‘Tejaswini ClearSkin Capsules [£11.95 for 30] contain a blend of ayurvedic herbs that cleanse and purify the bloodstream of the compounds that inflame the sebaceous glands, helping to treat and prevent acne breakouts.
Take two daily until skin is clear, then one daily for maintenance’ Pharmacist Shabir Daya

PROTECT NORMAL SKIN

However normal your skin, it still sustains damage from the sun’s ultraviolet rays and other pollution. So it’s important to protect it with an SPF15-30 day cream. If your day moisturiser has no UV protection, apply sunscreen on top. Use a good, reparative night cream, too. Gentle exfoliation once or twice a week brightens the skin – cell turnover slows with age and/or stress, so exfoliation keeps it on its toes. Or use a muslin cloth to remove cleanser, rubbing gently to remove surface skin cells – that way you exfoliate daily. In warmer months, you may prefer a light, wash-off cleanser (we like SLS-free products), with a creamy formula for chillier days. Normal skins don’t need toner (alcohol-based products can damage any skin) but if you like a refreshing feel, opt for a flower water.

CLEANSER

Aveda Enbrightenment Brightening Cleanser (£20) has a coconut-derived foaming surfactant, plus soothing rosemary, aloe and gentian extracts. Liz Earle Naturally Active Skincare Cleanse & Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser (£13 with two muslin cloths) suits all skin types and is removed with a hot cloth.

FLOWER WATER

Boots Botanics Organic Rosewater Toner (£3.99) is amazing value for a damask-rose-based skin tonic. Les Fleurs de Bach Anti-Stress Lotion (£20) with soothing melissa and tilia extracts is lovely swiped over just-cleansed skin with a cotton-wool pad.

MOISTURISER

Kimberly Sayer Anti-Oxidant Daily Moisturizing Cream SPF25 (£24.10) is all-natural, with antioxidant beech bud plus mineral sunscreens and anti-ageing borage oil to nourish and fortify. Budget-priced Skin Wisdom Perfecting Day Cream SPF15 (£6.84) has wild yam, soy, rhodiola and calcium-rich corallina extract to firm, plus plumping hyaluronic acid.

SPF PRIMER

If your moisturiser has no UV protection, Invisible Zinc Environmental Skin Protector SPF30+ (£27) is light, sheer, broad spectrum, not greasy or sticky – and hydrating, so you may not need moisturiser.

‘To brighten tired, dull skin, massage a few drops of facial oil, such as my Skinesis Overnight Facial [£42], into your face and neck with your fingertips’ Facialist Sarah Chapman

NIGHT CREAM

Lancôme Hydra Zen Nuit Neurocalm (£39) contains a calming botanical blend of rose, mu dan pi (a Chinese herb) and moringa. All-natural Weleda Wild Rose Night Cream (£11.95) is a light, easily absorbed, rose-steeped cream with rejuvenating horsetail – lovely for day too. If you’re starting to worry about fine lines, Nivea Visage Anti-Wrinkle Q10 Plus Night Cream (£11.75) is an excellent antioxidant night nourisher.

TREATMENT

Suki Exfoliate Foaming Cleanser (£28.99), with purifying organic lemongrass and natural sugar AHAs, doubles up as a reviving exfoliator – use twice a week to rejuvenate and make dull skin glow.

SUPPLEMENT

Dr Andrew Weil, formerly YOU’s medical columnist, recommends taking the essential fatty acid GLA (gamma-linolenic acid) for skin, nails and hair. Try Solgar Evening Primrose Oil 1,300mg (£11.90 for 30 soft-gel capsules). NB Allow at least six weeks to notice improvements.