Inside the Brooklyn Museum that documents the rise of the all-American sneaker from the original 1917 Converse All-stars to the latest Nikes

  • The Rise of Sneaker Culture looks into the sneaker's humble beginnings
  • Follows its journey from rubber tree to multimillion-dollar Nike deals
  • 150 shoes on display, including original Converse All-Stars from 1917 
  • Exhibition will travel around the US to Ohio, Kentucky and Atlanta

By Ap Reporter and Clare Vooght For Mailonline

Published: 10:53 EST, 10 July 2015 | Updated: 13:25 EST, 10 July 2015

The sneaker is a force in fashion, music and sports, but where did it all begin?

With the rubber tree, of course, and that's where senior curator Elizabeth Semmelhack ventured for a new exhibit, The Rise of Sneaker Culture, at the Brooklyn Museum.

'I wanted to go all the way back to the sap of the tree — the rubber tree — and find out how and why the sneaker even came into existence in the first place,' said Semmelhack, from Toronto's Bata Shoe Museum, a partner for the show with the American Federation of Arts.

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The Rise of Sneaker Culture at the Brooklyn Museum shows the history of the sneaker, spanning rubber production to Prada, to today's coveted designs featuring the names of major celebrities

The Rise of Sneaker Culture at the Brooklyn Museum shows the history of the sneaker, spanning rubber production to Prada, to today's coveted designs featuring the names of major celebrities

The exhibit of about 150 shoes opened on Friday and is ambitious in scope, spanning rubber production to Prada to the coveted kicks bearing basketball legend Michael Jordan's name, along with his monumental endorsement deal with Nike.

Semmelhack created the show after 15 years of focusing on high heels, when she realised, 'there is no way I can ignore the sneaker because they are so important culturally.'

Sneakers, after all, are one of the few things people spend days in line to acquire. They're the subject of songs and have helped turn multimillionaire athletes into fashion designers in the chase for the next hot pair.

Among those showcased in the exhibit are Adidas donated by Darryl 'DMC' McDaniels, from legendary rap group Run-DMC. The group was among the first music acts to get a sneaker endorsement deal. 

Original Converse All-Stars from 1917, a replica of Michael Johnson's 1996 Atlanta Olympics gold spikes and Adidas Muhammad Ali Confidence Shoes are also included.

'These are sneakers that you just cannot see,' said Semmelhack. 'They are seeing some shoes that are hidden away in the archives and in recesses of people's offices that if it was not for the exhibition they wouldn't have gotten a chance to see.'

The exhibit includes shoes made with Michael Jordan, such as this pair bearing the M from his signature

The exhibit includes shoes made with Michael Jordan, such as this pair bearing the M from his signature

The Adidas Muhammad Ali Confidence Shoes also made their way into the museum's collection

The Adidas Muhammad Ali Confidence Shoes also made their way into the museum's collection

After the Brooklyn exhibition closes on 4 October, the historical look at sneakers will travel to the Toledo Art Museum in Toledo, Ohio, the Speed Art Museum in Louisville, Kentucky, and the High Museum of Art in Atlanta.

Sneakers have 'a long history that has both incredible continuity but also incredible shifts and have been with us for some profound cultural moments,' Semmelhack said.

Most of all, she said, they were in the realm of the elite. Before the five-day work week, only the wealthy could make the time to play tennis and jog in the early 19th century — and they were the only ones who had a need for sneakers. 

Before the World Wars, only the wealthy had time to play tennis or jog, so sneakers were confined to the elite

Before the World Wars, only the wealthy had time to play tennis or jog, so sneakers were confined to the elite

Between the two World Wars, governments began to democratise physical health and sneakers so that people had fit bodies to serve their country.

Once rubber production was simplified after World War II, 'it loses status,' said Semmelhack. 'The price point becomes so low. It becomes the footwear of childhood.'

It was not until the 1970s that sneaker culture began to develop as we see it today. Nike gets in the game and creates expensive brightly colored shoes for the 'Me Generation' that decides to exercise at athletic clubs.

'They begin to segue back to a status symbol, as well as fashion, because these same people who are jogging begin to wear those bright-colored shoes to discos like Studio 54 and the idea of casual wear and fashion is becoming really important,' Semmelhack said.

Sneaker culture as we know it today began to develop in the 1970s. 'In 1984, '85, '86 [sneaker culture] started growing exponentially, and as hip-hop grew the sneakers grew as well. It became a part of your personality and fabric; it became a part of who you are,' said Brooklyn shop owner Calvan Fowler.

Sneaker culture as we know it today began to develop in the 1970s. 'In 1984, '85, '86 [sneaker culture] started growing exponentially, and as hip-hop grew the sneakers grew as well. It became a part of your personality and fabric; it became a part of who you are,' said Brooklyn shop owner Calvan Fowler.

Calvan Fowler, who owns the shop Jordan Heads Brooklyn, said Spike Lee-directed commercials and hip-hop music fuelled the 'sneakerhead' craze.

'In 1984, '85, '86 it started growing exponentially, and as hip-hop grew the sneakers grew as well. It became a part of your personality and fabric; it became a part of who you are,' Fowler said. 'It crosses different socioeconomics and racial ethnicities.'

Fowler's store sells only Michael Jordan merchandise, including soaps, clothes and shoes.

Obama Force 1s by artist Jimm Lasser. Today's buzz around popular sneakers isn't focused just on athletes, but on limited-edition designs crafted by influential artists

Obama Force 1s by artist Jimm Lasser. Today's buzz around popular sneakers isn't focused just on athletes, but on limited-edition designs crafted by influential artists

Fashion designers Ricky and Dee Jackson, brothers whose Pony shoes are part of the exhibit, said the sneaker sweepstakes of today are focused not just on the shoes of athletes but on limited-edition styles.

'Back in the day it was not as big as it was. Kids weren't really looking for limited-edition shoes. It was just an underground thing, but now it has really become mainstream,' Dee Jackson said.

Another aspect of sneaker culture Semmelhack could not ignore is crime associated with getting the latest pair.

A rare pair of cartoon-like sneakers made in 2009, inspired by Family Guy character Stewie Griffin

A rare pair of cartoon-like sneakers made in 2009, inspired by Family Guy character Stewie Griffin

'I feel like it's a little paternalistic to constantly warn young black men in particular to be careful of their sneakers,' she said. 

'The price point of sneakers is remarkably less than the price point of women's shoes but we don't hear these same stories about women.'

Fashion giants such as Gucci and Prada entered the sneaker industry early on, but sneakers did not turn high-end until sports brands teamed up with designers such as Jeremy Scott and Yohji Yamamoto, and companies such as Jimmy Choo and Louis Vuitton saw the value in the billion-plus business.

Sneakers did not turn high-end until sports brands teamed with designers. Above are Pierre Hardy's bright 2009 Powarama shoes, inspired by Roy Lichtenstein

Sneakers did not turn high-end until sports brands teamed with designers. Above are Pierre Hardy's bright 2009 Powarama shoes, inspired by Roy Lichtenstein

'Men are willing to wear pattern and color in their footwear in ways that they are not willing to wear in aspects of their dress and so for fashion designers, sneakers are the perfect canvas for playing with,' Semmelhack said.

Dee Jackson added: 'Shoes really stick out and it gives people an ego.'

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