Pro-surfer who holds the record for riding the world's largest wave breaks his neck in four places after an accident out at sea
- Shawn Dollar, 34, a married father-of-two, badly injured while surfing
- Believed to have fallen from a 25ft wave before breaking his neck
- Broke spine in four places and got concussion but is expected to recover
- Doctors have told of how Shawn is lucky to be alive following accident
Shawn Dollar, 34, is recovering in hospital after breaking his neck in four places after falling off his board along the Big Sur coastline
A professional surfer who holds the record for riding the world's largest wave has broken his neck in four places after falling off the surf in California.
Shawn Dollar, 34, who set the record after surfing a 61ft wave back in 2013, very nearly severed his spine and is lucky to be alive after his accident on Monday, friends have said.
Shawn had reportedly been catching waves of more than 25ft off the central Californian coast when he fell, fracturing his spine in four places and giving himself a concussion.
Speaking from his hospital bed, he said: 'I’m so thankful I’m alive and present today.
'I’m so grateful for those who where there in my scariest and darkest hour and who acted on my behalf to get me to safety and reach the hospital in time.'
Despite his injuries, Shawn managed to stay conscious and get himself out of harm's way before other surfer rallied around and he was airlifted to hospital.
He added: 'I'm thankful to learn that even with these severe injuries I will make a full recovery.
'They will be met with challenges, but with my family's support and community encouragement I will be back in no time.'
Darryl 'Flea' Virostko, another big-wave surfer from Dollar's home-town of Santa Cruz, told SF Gate: 'With four breaks in his neck, he got really lucky that he didn’t sever his spinal cord.
'He got really lucky, as lucky as the doctors have seen. It was a bit of a miracle for Mr. Dollar.'
Mr Dollar, who is a married father-of-two, was reportedly tackling waves of up to 25ft when the accident happened, though he was able to get out of the water safely (file image)
Friends of Mr Dollar said doctors have told him that he is lucky to be alive and could have severed his spinal cord in the accident (file image)
Shawn, who is a married father-of-two, gained a reputation for surfing huge waves in 2010 when, despite not being invited to take part in the Titans of Mavericks contest, he manged to steal the show by paddling into and surfing a 60ft wave.
Though he didn't know it at the time, it turned out to be the largest wave ever paddle-surfed.
Paddle surfing involves the athlete physically pulling themselves into the wave, rather than being dropped there by jet ski or boat.
Then, three years later, he beat his own record by holding on atop at 61ft wave off Cortes Bank, 100 miles off San Diego.
However, he has also discussed fears for his safety following the death of Sion Milosky at the Mavericks competition in 2011.
Shawn said he was waiting alongside Milosky to catch a wave when a large one came along and the pair went for it together.
Mr Dollar himself has now issued a statement saying he is 'so thankful I’m alive and present' and is expecting to make a full recovery before returning to surfing
Mr Dollar currently holds the world record for the biggest wave ever paddle-surfed. Paddle surfing involves physically pulling yourself into the wave, rather than being dropped there by jet ski
He told the Chronicle: 'It looked like it was mine, but he’d been out there just killing it, no fear or hesitation, really impressing everyone.
'He was stroking so hard for that wave, I just said, "Go ahead, man, that’s yours." It was the last wave of his life.
'My son was born just three days later, and I was still in shock. I had trouble with that for more than a year, because Sion’s death made me totally aware of the cost.
'Now I think about drowning every single day.'
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