Are YOU wearing your eyeliner wrong? Makeup artist for Kate Moss and Gisele reveals professional tricks that will flatter every face shape

• Davinia Fermi has worked with models like Gisele and Kate Moss
• She gives tips on the best technique for different shaped eyes
• Best styles for small, big, almond, heavy-lidded and close-set

By Phoebe Jackson-edwards For Mailonline

Published: 07:41 EST, 13 September 2015 | Updated: 09:16 EST, 13 September 2015

Eyeliner is often a failsafe for creating a dramatic makeup look but your tried and tested technique may not be the most flattering for your eye shape - or your face.

Makeup artist Davinia Fermi, from Brighton - who has worked with supermodels Kate Moss and Gisele Bündchen, and photographer David Bailey - has revealed the eye-opening tricks that will flatter all face shapes.

From emphasising small peepers with lots of liner to blending harsh lines on round eyes, here are her top tips...

Davinia says almond is the ideal eye shape and is best emphasised with a cat-eye flick

ALMOND EYES 

Although almond eyes are the 'perfect' eye shape, the makeup artist advises a feline flick because it 'accentuates the symmetry.'

Davinia, who has worked in the beauty industry for over 15 years and founded the DFMA Make Up Academy in Brighton, said: 'Using the under eye line as a guide, draw an invisible line from under the eye then draw an actual line from the outer corner to meet the dot. This gives an even flick on both eyes.'

BIG EYES 

Davinia says that the goal with large eyes is to try and prevent them looking much bigger.

Her advice is to choose sultry eye makeup, with a thick rim of black liner on the upper lid, and a thin liner on the lower lid, drawing attention to the outer sections of the eye.

She said: 'Keep to dark colours on the outer third corner of the eye.'

Big eyes can look round with harsh liner so Davinia recommends softening the lines

While many lucky women boasting big eyes might use a strong line, Davinia suggests softening it and creating a square flick.

She said: 'A smudged liner works well either above or below the eye. Hard-edged liners often draws attention to the roundness of the eye.

'The trick is to extend to the outer corner of the eye and make the line more of a square shape.'

SMALL EYES 

For small eyes, to draw attention more dramatic liner is needed.

First, Davinia recommends curling the lashes to make eyes appear wider, then using a light colour in the waterline.

Small eyes pop with a Sixties-style shape and white liner in the rim of the eye

She said: 'Apply creamy white pencil or colourful liner to the inner rim which creates the illusion of wider eyes.'

She also recommends creating a Sixties eye style by taking the liner to just beyond the inner corner of the eye.

Davinia said: 'When using eye shadow extend to the outer corners of the eye as a winged effect will also help create the illusion of bigger eyes.

'Apply false lashes to the outer lash line to enlarge the eyes.'

HEAVY LIDS 

Contour heavy lids with matte eyeshadow and use even liner on bottom and top lids

For heavy lids where colour can sometimes get lost, Davinia says contouring the lid first can help.

She said: 'Using a matt contouring shade in the lids is a good way to give the illusion of a deeper set socket.

'Whatever colour you use, apply it in the inner corners, both top and bottom, as this means you can still see the colour if your eyes are open.

'Also create a straight brow shape with only a slight arch. Anything too arched will only accentuate the lids.' 

She recommends using more liner on the lower lid to balance. 

CLOSE SET EYES 

Women with close-set eyes should use highlighter in the inner corners to widen their appearance

For close-set eyes, Davinia suggests highlighter in the inner corners - then using darker shades only on the outer corner of the eye.

She said: 'Any metallic or light colours should be applied to the inner part and any dark or smoky colours to the outer to extend it. This balances and gives the illusion that the eyes are wider apart.'

Sticking to this rule, only use false eyelashes on the outer corners.

ALL EYES 

But for an eye style which works on all eye types, Davinia recommends a softer smoky eye.

She said: 'It can be created using softer shades such as browns or even greens or go bold with metallic colours.

'Line the inner eye with a white pencil to open the eye, then use black or deep tones to line.

'If you want to introduce colour, use a metallic colour in the inner corner of your eyelids.'

Davinia Fermi, left, has been a makeup artist over 15 years and right, says all shapes suit a soft smoky eye, right

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