Make-up artist Gary Cockerill treats grandmother to contouring makeover

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Gary Cockerill treated mother and sister to makeover
Shares his simple beauty tips that will help knock years off your face
Has worked with Katie Price, Eva Longoria and Jerry Hall

Published: 03:19 EST, 16 September 2015 | Updated: 07:24 EST, 16 September 2015

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Make-up artist Gary Cockerill is used to working with celebrities. He was Katie Price’s right-hand man for many years, and has also worked with Hollywood A-listers including Eva Longoria and Honor Blackman and supermodel Jerry Hall.

A former coalmine worker, Gary has learned his trade on the job, and despite working on some of the acting and modelling world’s most famous faces, he admits one of his biggest loves is transforming ‘real women’ with make-up.

Gary put his skills working with ordinary women to the test in his new book, Simply Glamorous, £25 (Jacqui Small Publishing) – and even worked on his mother and his sister.

Ann Cockerill, 74, left, before, and, right, after, is the star of her make-up artist son Gary's new book and he treated her to a makeover to help her achieve a youthful look. He used contouring on her face to act like a mini facelift, lifting the brows, chin and jaw and pulling out the cheekbones to add structure

‘My years of experience have taught me that make-up can be really powerful,’ says Gary. ‘Looking good means feeling good, and the right make-up can give women so much confidence. It’s such a pleasure to see the difference make-up can make and how it can empower women.’

Gary’s mum Ann is 74 and a grandmother-of-two from Armthorpe, Doncaster. As the years have gone by she has worn less make-up than in her younger days.

‘My mum loves movies and actresses,’ says Gary, ‘so she wanted quite a dramatic look. My main aim with my mum was to show her she can still wear red lipstick. As a child I remember she always had bright red lips, which looked fabulous with her piercing blue eyes.

'But as she’s got older, she’s felt she couldn’t wear strong colours, and I wanted to show her that it’s still possible to keep the same look as you get older, you just have to adapt it.

‘She loved the look, and it’s given her the confidence to wear make-up again.’

Gary believes older women should compensate for what is lost in ageing, such as the natural pigment in the face and hair.

‘When the contours of your face and the texture and tone of the skin have changed, the make-up you used 40 or even 20 years ago may no longer work for you,’ he says. ‘So many women are stuck in a make-up rut, using the same shades, textures and techniques as they did in their twenties.

‘But there’s a wealth of clever products that can be used to add plumpness to lips and cheeks and restore glow and warmth to the skin. I have so much fun doing make-up for older clients and I go to town to show them what is possible.’

Gary also employed the same beauty techniques when treating his 50-year-old sister Lynne, left, before, and, right, after, to a makeover

Gary used contouring on his mum Ann’s face to act like a mini facelift, lifting the brows, chin and jaw and pulling out the cheekbones to add structure.

He advises uses cream foundation for contouring older skin, using a lightweight liquid foundation first on the skin to even out any blemishes – or in Ann’s case, he used yellow and green colour correctors to cancel out the redness caused by Rosacea and broken capillaries.

He then used a cream foundation two shades lighter than Ann’s natural skin tone under the eyes, above the cheekbones, below the brow bone, on the centre of the eyelids and forehead and along the nose-to-mouth creases to accentuate the areas.

A darker shade was used under the jaw and chin, down the neck, in the hollows of the cheeks, in the crease of the eyes to define them and around the temples and hairline. The dark shade creates shadow and depth.

Gary lifted Ann’s eye area by creating an arch with the eyebrows and using a soft brown eyeshadow on the main part of the eyelid up to the crease and a darker brown on the outer corners of the eyes and in the crease.

He defined the eyes with a fine black gel liner along the upper lashline, smudging it, and then using a creamy, nude eye pencil along the lower lashline. Mascara and some individual eyelashes made the eyes stand out.

When it comes to lips, Gary advises priming with a little foundation before applying liner and lipstick. ‘It makes lipstick last longer and neutralises any natural pigment, so the lip colour has depth.’ He says blotting then reapplying lip liner two or three times, and doing the same with lipstick makes it last longer and prevents the colour feathering or bleeding into any fine lines around the mouth.

A former coalmine worker, Gary, left, has learned his trade on the job and has now put his skills working with ordinary women to the test in his new book, Simply Glamorous, £25, right

ANN'S VERDICT:

‘When Gary started the contouring I thought it was like "painting by numbers". But I was amazed how much of a facelift it gave me and how flawless my skin looked.

‘I used to love wearing red lipstick, so I felt I’d gone back to my youth when I saw the end result. It really restored my confidence and I love that I can still break the rules.’

Gary also worked his magic on his sister Lynne, 50, to show her she could still try a sunkissed, warm look using shimmer shades.

‘Older ladies should be careful when using shimmery textures,’ says Gary, ‘Shimmer or frosted shades around the eye area can draw attention to any imperfections such as wrinkles, and droopy lids, making them look heavy.

‘But that doesn’t mean you can’t use shimmery shades at all. With Lynne, I used a gold shimmer eyeshadow on the main part of the eyelid, only taking it up the crease. I then blended a richer, matte brown into the crease and blended it into the shimmer shadow.

‘To help with the slight droop of Lynne’s eyelids I used a fine brush and the same brown eyeshadow to cut out a crease just above the natural socket line, following its curve. I swept the same colour under the eye with an angled brush, and lined the upper lashline with a black gel liner. To intensify the eyes even more, I use a burgundy-bronze eyeliner pencil on the lower lashes to accentuate Lynn’s green eyes.

‘Keep the colours warm for this look, on eyes, lips and the face, as they really lift the skin and make it glow. This is an evening version of the look, but you can tone it down with lighter gold textures on the eyes and the lips.’

LYNNE'S VERDICT

‘I never imagined I could look like this at 50. I stopped wearing shimmer eyeshadow years ago because I thought I couldn’t carry it off. But Gary showed me that by putting it in the right place I could wear it.

'I don’t lie in the sun so it was great to learn how to create a glowing, sunkissed look with make-up.’

Simply Glamorous: Make-Up Transformations to make you look & feel fabulous by Gary Cockerill. Photography by Vikki Grant. Published by Jacqui Small, £25.