Edition: U.S. / Global

Thursday, October 1, 2015

Food

Clay Williams for The New York Times

Its East African flavors include bisbaas, a sauce of yogurt, cilantro and jalapeños.

Chinon, a Red With Attitude

These wines possess a chameleon characteristic that yields a deeper experience the more you bask in their glow.

Michelin Announces Its New York Stars

The Modern has moved up in the guide’s restaurant ratings.

In ‘The Food Lab,’ the Science of Home Cooking

J. Kenji López-Alt takes his Internet advice on cooking off line and puts it into a 1,000-page guide, with his take on why ingredients behave the way they do.

Vegans Go Glam

Proponents of a plant-based diet want to replace the spartan, dowdy vegan stereotypes of old with something sexier.

Picholine to Find a New Home

After 22 years near Lincoln Center, the chef Terrance Brennan says he is being forced out by a rent increase.

Restaurant Review: Houseman in Hudson Square

The menu is heavy on appetizers, but oh, that chicken.

California Matters | Mark Bittman

‘The Changing Face of California Agriculture’

How some small-scale farmers in the Central Valley try to sustain their businesses in the face of cultural challenges and little government support.

Anthony Bourdain’s Food Market Takes Shape

The chef, author and culinary traveler has confirmed details about his megamarket at Pier 57, at the edge of the meatpacking district.

Shallots Play It Cool on the Grill

When cut into larger chunks and positioned next to the fire, rather than over it, vegetables turn sweet, soft and charred at the edges. (Article plus video.)

Neighborhood Joint

Heroes and Hot Dogs in a Changing Bronx

Frank Fiorentino serves sandwiches to regulars just as he did in 1978, when he opened Domand delicatessen in the Castle Hill neighborhood.

A Steamed Lamb Shoulder, Moroccan Style

An often-overlooked cut becomes falling-off-the-bone tender.

Allen Katz Finds Romance in His Food Mill

The mixologist and founder of New York Distilling Company considers time spent cooking as gratifying, even as idyllic, as time spent eating.

St.-Joseph: The Next Best Wine in the Northern Rhône

These bottles convey the elemental aromas, flavors and emotions of appellations like Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage and Cornas, but in a more open, easier-going manner.

Goa Taco Takes Liberties on the Lower East Side

In lieu of tortillas, the fillings at this “semi-permanent” spot are served inside paratha, a many-layered Indian flatbread.

Eat

East by West Indies

Many cultures make one Trinidad — and a perfect chickpea curry.

Einat Admony Branches Out

The restaurateur is planning a tapas restaurant in SoHo; Black Tree adds a branch in Brooklyn; Kossar’s temporarily closes.

Okra Helps Dress Up Potato Salad

Cooked okra’s tangy flavor and sturdy texture play beautifully against the nutty and soft potatoes.

Hey, Mr. Food Editor

Just the Right Chicken Parmesan

More advice for the home cook from our food editor, Sam Sifton. This time around, he answers questions on eggs and cooking temperatures.

Charles Masson Finds a New Home

The restaurateur, who left La Grenouille last year as a result of a family disagreement, will be the director of an Upper East Side restaurant.

Espelette Pepper Expands Reach to Butter

Plus: a notable chocolate drink; a feast for your eyes; Peruvian-approved ceviche; a keyboard waffle iron; and a new Gourmet Garage in TriBeCa.

Q&A;

Chef José Andrés on Giving and Getting Back in Haiti

Andrés is hoping his new PBS documentary will help people see the country from a different, positive perspective and want to visit.

Is That Cappuccino You’re Drinking Really a Cappuccino?

The onetime king of specialty coffee drinks is experiencing an identity crisis. Experts weigh in on the beverage’s defining characteristics.

In Milan, the Pastry Wars

The two luxury giants Prada and LVMH now operate rival cafes along the city’s most famous shopping street.

Keurig Aims to Lift Profits With Cold Drinks Machine

The company is introducing Keurig Kold, a home soda fountain system that draws on parts and processes from the aerospace and weapons businesses.

A Very British Tea Party at the Spotted Pig

At her friend April Bloomfield’s New York City restaurant, Claire Ptak celebrates the stateside launch of her Violet Cakes cookbook.

Restaurant Review: Gabriel Kreuther in Midtown

Gabriel Kreuther has brought his winning formulas from the Modern to his own restaurant near Bryant Park.

With Subscription Snacks, Entrepreneurs Think Inside the Box

Subscription snack and food box businesses are popping up everywhere, hoping to cash in on America’s appetite for novelty, convenience and munchies.

Judge Strikes Down New York City’s Ban on Foam Food Containers

The ban was seen as a major breakthrough in a national campaign to end polystyrene foam’s use in everything from packaging to coffee cups.

Panda Express Takes a Second Run at New York

The buffet-style chain is returning to a market saturated with traditional Chinese restaurants.

Weeknight Cooking
Rikki Snyder for The New York Times

A home-cooked midweek meal is easily had, once you’ve honed the most basic kitchen skills.

5 Easy Meals for the Distracted Cook

Basic techniques and simple recipes let you turn your attention to little things like life.

When Dinner Proves Divisive: One Strategy, Many Dishes

Directions that can be configured to produce many different options at one meal is the workaround solution.

Asian Essentials for Easy Weeknight Meals

Soy sauce, fish sauce, miso paste: Even if you are a cook new to these flavors, there is no reason to be intimidated by them.

Garlic Soup That’s in a Rush

Based on a Provençal recipe, this meal requires a minimal number of staples and can be on the table in 30 minutes.

Mussels to the Rescue

When dinner company is a surprise, a quick trip to the fishmonger and a stop at the neighborhood boulangerie can solve everything.

Restaurants and News
Ruth Reichl
Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Ruth Reichl

In as much time as it takes to peel a peach, Ms. Reichl went from the top of the heap into free fall after Gourmet closed. Then she began to cook. (Article plus video.)

Lucy’s Vietnamese Kitchen Stays Close to Its Roots

The restaurant in Bushwick, Brooklyn, a block away from the apartment where the chef grew up and still lives, is named for his grandmother.

Matter

That Stinky Cheese Is a Result of Evolutionary Overdrive

Biologists studying molds used in cheese-making found that they have acquired large amounts of DNA from other species.

Black Barn Takes Its Inspiration From the Farm

The restaurant in the former SD26 space offers seasonal, rustic fare; Amy’s Bread opens a cafe in the library; Danny Brown Wine Bar to close.

Matzo Fried Chicken Served to Go

Plus: preserving quality aged beef; sampling ethnic foods in Astoria; Early Girl tomatoes; and an Edible Schoolyard anniversary celebration.

Ice-Pop Molds That Contained Walter Youngblood’s Enthusiasm

Retired silicone molds are treasured for the ice-cream business, KingLeche Cremes, they helped start.

René Redzepi Plans to Close Noma and Reopen It as an Urban Farm

The culinary pioneer in Copenhagen plans to reopen his restaurant in 2017 as part of a move to position the farm next to the table.

Why Everything Is Bad for You

Might as well eat bologna. Because you just can’t win.

Daniel Thompson, Whose Bagel Machine Altered the American Diet, Dies at 94

Bound up in the Thompson bagel machine is the story of Jewish assimilation, gastronomic homogenization, the decline of trade unionism and the rise of franchise retailing.

Restaurant Review: Casa Mono in Gramercy Park

A Spanish tradition of small-serving size lives on, as do the satisfying results.

Observatory

Oldest Find of Salmon Remains in North America

The 11,500-year-old remains were found in Alaska, a study says, confirming that salmon fishing in North America dates from the end of the last ice age.

Hervé This and the Future of Food

With his latest culinary innovation, France’s favorite gastronomic mad scientist hopes to do nothing less than eradicate world hunger.

The Fall Restaurant Preview

A look at the restaurants opening in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens this fall.

Restaurants Take the Din Out of Dining

Establishments like Untitled are becoming more serious, and sophisticated, about acoustics and noise reduction.

A Blurry Line Between Bar and Restaurant

Some of New York’s newest bars are turning out great food, making it tricky to differentiate between bar and restaurant.

Cooking

With a bone-in piece of meat, indirect heat helps cook things move evenly and gently but without sacrificing the char. (Article plus video.)

Hey, Mr. Food Editor

Cooking With Friends (Without a Fight)

Our food editor answers readers’ questions about how to cook with friends (and keep them as friends), the best way to sauté and what “blanch” means.

A Borscht for Vegetarians That’s Light and Comforting

Combine beets and mushrooms for a broth with a heady flavor.

When in Rome, Learn to Cook Italian

If you go to Rome to dine, you’re getting only a taste of Italian culture. For a full immersion, you’ve got to make some pasta and traditional sauces yourself.

Drinks
Some of the Champagnes available at Marta.
Michael Nagle for The New York Times

Some of the Champagnes available at Marta.

The restaurateur’s Union Square Hospitality Group makes wine drinkers from novice to expert feel that they can order something better than what they may have imagined at a more-than-fair price.

Drink

A Stout for All Seasons

At the right temperature, this dark beer can be as refreshing as it is cozy.

White Bordeaux Demands Close Attention

These wines don’t come to you like big, wagging dogs. Instead, they slowly draw you in.

New Bars in New York City Explore Spirits of Latin America

The Lower East Side and Bushwick, Brooklyn, have some of the more interesting bar openings for fall.

Boîte

Bar Goto, a New Japanese Bar on the Lower East Side

A tiny spot lures the after-work crowd with Eastern-inflected cocktails and Japanese tapas.

Cookbooks
Sonny Figueroa/The New York Times

The new cookbook offers 90 inventive recipes, but it’s the 10 vegan variations that make it stand out.

Fette Sau’s Joe Carroll Writes ‘Feeding the Fire,’ a Worthy Barbecue Primer

“Feeding the Fire,” written with Nick Fauchald, may be the most useful book of the current season.

Cooking Guides
Be a Better Cook

Master basic kitchen skills with help from Sam Sifton, Melissa Clark and Julia Moskin.

NYTFood on Instagram

Follow us to find all the food that’s fit to cook, snap and eat.

Featured Recipes
Orange Beef
Roasted Fish
Miso Chicken
Autumn Bonfire
Chicken Diavolo
Eggplant Salad
Roasted Vegetables
Teddie's Apple Cake
Liège Waffles
How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

Starve a Landfill

Restaurants, home cooks and now a growing number of cities are embracing the belief that efficiency, composting and wasting less in the kitchen are just smart economics.

INTERACTIVE MAP: New York Health Department Restaurant Ratings Map

Interactive map of health violations at restaurants in New York

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